Camry :: CEL Go On - Codes P1155 / P1128 And P1150
Oct 12, 2015
02 SE. Had my CEL go on, so went to Autozone to pull my code. Well, ended up being codes:
P1155
Definition - Air/Fuel sensor heater circuit (bank1 sensor2)
Probable Cause:
- Open or short circuit condition
- Poor electrical condition
P1128
Definition - Throttle control motor lock
Probable Cause:
- Open or short circuit condition
- Poor electrical condition
P1150
Definition - Coolant path clog up for coolant heat storage system
Probable Cause:
- Clogged cooling system
- Failed water valve
- Failed CHS tank outlet temp sensor
The car is running fine as best I can tell. Maybe a stutter here and there, but I might be imagining it. Coolant isn't that old, and there are no starting / overheating / electrical issues present.
From what I've gathered, P1155 is O2 sensor and the other two reference the affected area. But....given that they all seem to reference some sort of electrical issue (the last coolant one sounds like it could be electrical), it makes me wonder if I have a short somewhere in my engine harness...maybe heat has corroded the wires somewhere. Sound logical at all?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Camry LE V6 with codes p1135 and p1155. Both sensors that are supposedly faulty have been replaced.
The new sensors are denso 234-9043 and 234-9047. I am confident that the second one was the right one replaced as both the new and the old had a little green marker(the location is near the firewall.) not 100% sure about the other one.
The sensors were brand new so I don't know what the problem is.
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I just bought my 2006 Toyota Prius about a year ago in 2009. About a month or two ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on along with a big red triangular warning light.
I brought the vehicle into my local Toyota dealership so they can diagnose it.They told me that they had 3 or 4 different "codes" coming from the machine when getting the signals from the check engine light. All the codes were related to the cooling system. They said that they felt that there was "debris" clogging the pathway for the coolant flow throughout the engine. They had recommended a "coolant flush" for the hybrid side as well as the mechanical side.
So I had them perform the coolant flushes. After leaving the dealership that 1st time, the check engine light came back on the next day. I called the same dealership and explained it to them. They asked me to bring it in again.
SO I brought it to them a 2nd time. They diagnosed it again. They told me they came up with 2 of the SAME "codes" and 1 that was different, but ALL the codes were STILL related to the cooling system. They explained to me that something was preventing the clear flow of coolant throughout the engine. And since the thermostat was the only major obstacle, they recommended that I replace it. Well, I did. And after I left the dealership that 2nd time, I was praying that this was the last of my Prius issues !
The check engine light came back on the next day. The service person invited me back and did not charge me this time because it was the same issue. I told them that I am not in the business of randomly changing parts on my car unless I am absolutely sure I know exactly what the problem is. HOWEVER, this time they kept my vehicle for a good week or two. Running it through various diagnostics tests overnight here and there.
They finally came out and said that they feel that I have a coolant system leak coming from my engine and that I need to replace my head gasket which is responsible for sealing the engine.
During my 1st visit, the codes were P0117 and P1150
During the 2nd and 3rd visits , in addition to those, there was one additional one that came up that I will post as soon as I find it !
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So I didn't pass the smog check for the new used car that I just purchased 10 days ago. Although my old car (same model), was five years older, I never had this problem. I was told that it is a gross polluter. These are the problem that I have to fix:
OBD Fault Codes - P1128 Manufacturer specific codeP0411 Secondary Air inj Incorrect FlowP0172 System too Rich (Bank 1)P0134 O2 Sensor CKT Inactive (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
How this happens?? 2001 VW ...
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I have an 01 accent with a 1.5 engine. Coming up with codes P1123 and p1128. I sprayed manifold with brakekleen and didn't get. Any change in Rpms. Also sprayed maf sensor with maf cleaner. And still have same problems. Some hesitation when I start to go. And while I'm driving. My gas mpg is 25 mpg which seems way low. I just bought car and next day engine light came on with above Codes.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon XLS with 134k miles, engine is a v6 (3.0). It has a rough idle and a steady misfire. You can drive it sometimes and it will run perfect and you can drive it sometimes and it will misfire. I am getting codes P1150, P0300,P0302, P0304,P0306. Driving me nuts.
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I have a 2007 prius. About a month my dad has lightly knocked the car with a wall at the front left side of the car. the coolant tank has been pushed & the pump has started giving abnormal noise whenever running but the problem is that i got a check engine light with the red triangle & a sign on the multi-information display. I have pulled the tank to its right place & released the pump after cleaning the calcification and so the noise has stopped & i have disconnected the battery during working & so the error code has gone.
After about one day the check engine light has came back alone & the reading was P1150 which means a coolant path clog.
I have tried all I can & done some tests; the water temp. in the coolant tank is hot even after hours of driving. I think there's no clot because when i cleaned the pump i have puffed into the tubes after disconnecting some connections & the air was going out easily from all openings. I have resetted the error code 2 times
now i'm having a new phenomenon.. in the past 2 days during driving & especially when i pull hard on the pedal & when the battery is in its lowest level . Suddenly the red triangle show up with sign that indicate a high temperature on the multi display. These signs don't remain more than 3-5 seconds & then disappear.
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I am getting a P1150 code on a 06 Prius (240k). Red Triangle and temp light come on after about 15min of driving (no heat). I have taken it to the dealer. They said the Coolant control valve (stuck) and waterpump (leaking) needed replacing. I replaced both of these myself along with the temp sensor and radiator cap, but the problem persisted.
Coolant is also shooting out of the overflow hose in the reservoir tank when car warms up. I just took it to a different shop yesterday because I was assuming I could not get all of the air bled out of my system. They charged me $200 and said there was quite a bit of air in the system. The first thing I did when starting my Prius was to check the heat, no heat. I drove it home and immediately noticed there was yet again coolant spitting out of the overflow tube. I didn't want to believe this was happening again. I drove it to work this morning (15min drive) and the red triangle and temp light came back on.
I now have been driving it with the radiator cap loose so the pressure does not build up and spit the coolant out. This works for short drives, but I've noticed my coolant is disappearing quickly. No visible coolant on the ground or anywhere in the engine bay.
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P1128. Have had the code over and over!! No vacuum leaks and I've been through 2 MAFs. I've cleaned the throttle body, changed intake manifold gasket, changed plugs and wires, and put a new air filter in.
The code comes back every few months or so and the car becomes undriveable. Last changed my MAF back in December and the code is back already. What am I missing?
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Car is a 2000 Passat Wagon 1.8T ATW FWD
I get the P1128 code and Emissions Workshop warning most of the year, then it cycles off in the summer. It went off yesterday, back on today, and I imagine it will go off again for weeks/months as the weather heats up.
Things I've tried so far:
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced MAF wiring harness
Replaced front 02 sensor
Replaced air filter
Replaced cracked vacuum tubes, at least those accessible from the top. Some of the hidden lengths theoretically could be at issue but a mechanic said they were ok.
What I've not replaced is the secondary air pump. (Mechanic told me it's dry and checks okay.)
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I have a 2000 accent 1.5L I was having issues with the maf. I was running a cold air intake but started having issues. I removed the intake and replaced with stock config. I cleaned the maf and re-installed. The car will run fine, build rpm and return to idle with no problems. The second I put it in gear and try to move the engine will misfire and rattle itself until it quits. I have been driving around for approx a week with the maf disconnected seeing as it seems to run alright, just lacks a bit of power it seems.
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I found on internet loads of comment about this error code, but in my case the only bad thing is with fuel consumption - about 9-10 litres (!) for 100 km on motorway. Normaly it should be about 6-8 litres.
The error means: "P1128 is "Long Term Fuel Trim Too Lean". Which means the air/fuel mixture is leaner than the HO2S can compensate for."
Idle is working correctly (i think thats to do with MAF), engine start without any problems and overall car running smooth.
What can cause a bad fuel consumption? Is anything to do with a lambda (O2) sensor or it could be something else?
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This is the infamous error code many Accent owners might have experienced it. The code refers to "Too lean intake system". People try to replace all kinds of parts like ECM, MAF, O2 Sensor, TPS, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, etc. according to my research. I just bought a 2001 Accent and the P2188 light came on. I wrote an email to Hyundai Corp. Asking what would be the most likely part that will cause the (P2188) check engine light to come on.
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I just did an oil change at my vocational school on my grandpas car, 2008 LE V6. On the way back it threw a CEL. Codes are listed in the title. Now googling those codes i found info on other car manufacturers i.e ford, dodge etc.. But i found nothing in regards to a gen 6 camry. It seems like this code has something to do with the engine running lean. Bank 1 and bank 2. What could cause these codes and what could be a possible remedy. P0174 and P0171 were both pending and setting a cel don't know if maybe they were pending before i did the oil change.
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I have a 2007 Camry LE approx. 140,000 miles. Get codes PO037 and PO102, I have changed both of the O2 sensors and nothing has changed, also cleaned and changed the MAF ( think that's what is called.) the air flow sensor.
Car still hesitates and has very little power to take off but will run at 80 mph on freeway when I come to a hill or incline it slows and I give it gas and it downshifts and the RPM's go up to about 4000-5000 and it acts like it has no horsepower . When I get out of car after driving it smells like rotten eggs. (I guess from the cat converter). For the longest time I was getting PO101 and PO172.
The 037 &102 codes just started after I changed both of the O2 sensors and the previous codes don't show up anymore. I am about ready to cut this car loose and get something else.
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Took it to the local parts store to have the codes checked, but was unable to erase the codes from the reader. Is there procedure I need to do?
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I am having trouble with drive ability. It is getting worse with no engine codes. Car idles fine, but misses. While driving and almost any speed. Drove with dealer today and he got a "misfire on 3?"
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Refilled the wiper fluid on my fiance's 2011 Camry LE today and low and behold the ABS + Slip Indicator lights came on in the dash next time she started the car.
No codes are throwing from the ECU and it drives fine. Only thing I can think to do is Drive it full tilt and see if I lose the back end and/or try braking aggressively from 40+ mph. Just to see if the ABS/Trac Control systems are hosed. Don't want to go to the dealer to have them try the same thing and me pay for it...
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I have 2 x P0031 and 2 x P0051 after an accident. I rear ended an SUV. My hood got bent and the radiator got pushed in. The body shop said they don't think it was due to an accident. I can't possibly have 4 sensors go on me.
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The engine on my camry 2007 was overheated and I had the headgasket replaced but now it has misfire codes and rough idle this is a 2.4 engine I replaced 2 of the coils but still it has a rough idle... when the car is running it runs pretty good.
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Car's a 2005 SE I4, auto, US-made
So, I finally got the Techstream to work; I think. I had ordered one which never came, then ordered a second one, which showed up after some five weeks. It took some playing around with the software, but it seems that I finally got it to work tonight on my old, and slow, Dell laptop (Windows 7, 32-bit), which will be devoted purely to car diagnostics, since there are supposed trojan viruses in the software.
The car's temperature gauge had been running very low, I had lost top-end power, as in, hitting a wall at 80-85 mph+ where there was no acceleration despite the pedal being floored, and eventually the check engine light came on. After the light came on, I took it easy on the car and ordered the software and cable. In full disclosure, I did a complete coolant flush in late Summer/early Fall, 2015, pouring in the proper fluid. There are no leaks and the level is correct. There are no foul odors from the engine. There is a slight head gasket leak on the upper right hand corner which I plan to address when the temps warm up again (no codes pertaining to vacuum leaks).
Tonight I managed to use the software and cable for the first time and pulled the following codes:
Engine and ECT, Monitor Status COM, DTC (Code) P0128
Occupant Detection, Monitor Status None, DTC (Code) B1771
So, do the symptoms described above, including loss of power, "match" the bad thermostat diagnosis?
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