Camry :: CE 2000 5S-FE With Code P0770 And High Idle Speed
Mar 10, 2014
Camry 2000 CE 102,xxx miles. My car died in Jan 14, after have P0770 for while, only Reverse gear work. The mechanics said the tranny need to re-build. I had him bring the tranny to tranny shop to re-build ($1650), then the code still pop up. Brought it back, they said the ECU needs to be reset. I had the car next day then that code pop up again!
They replaced the Solenoid E. The code is still there. Brought the car back, they took the tranny to rebuild it again. Drive the car for a day, the darn code pop up again, now they blamed on the ECU. Ok my mechanic guy replaced it at my own cost for part ($150) but the code is still there. This time they blamed on the high idle rpm approx. 1600-1800. My mechanic tried to fix the high idle speed so the tranny stop blaming other causes. He cleaned IAC valve, replace O-rings (I don't remember the location of them) then he said whenever he inserted the new ones, they start to crack!
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I have a 2002 Toyota Camry V6. The warranty expired in Feb 2007. The car has only 67,000km.
The check engine light came on and the code is P0770, Solenoid E malfunction. The problem was first reported at 43,000km, when the car was still under warranty but only a transmission flush was performed and the code was reset.
I wrote Toyota and after almost two months they told me they do not cover it because is out of warranty and I do not qualify for the Goodwill program. I tried again to tell them that instead of fixing the root of the problem they temporarily covered it, but again I got a NO. No comments about the mileage, time, etc. Just the car is out of warranty and I'm out of luck.
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This is the code that comes up on my 2002 2.2 Cavalier. Camshaft sensor bank 1. After a lot of research I was led to believe it was most likely the upstream 02 sensor. Replaced it, engine light still on. Wipe codes, light goes off, turn off car, turn back on, light back on. What other possible problems could be causing the light to be on? It's been on the entire time I've had the car which is 3 years. I've had it e tested with the light on and it's passed with flying colors. It's up for an e test, actually I have 5 flipping days to figure this out, have it e tested and get a sticker for it.
I've been trying to figure it out for well over a month since I realized an e test was due and they've changed the way they do the tests now, they told me even tho the light most likely has nothing to do with the emissions they can't test it if the light is on period. I was told to start pulling fuses because it could be something as simple as a bad fuse. The car is in relatively good shape under the hood, no major problems and much of the car is still factory. No weird symptoms other then sometimes it will rev high at idle or low speed but as soon as I get to 4th gear it always balances out.
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Since having my engine replaced with a newer used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
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1992 camry 4 cylinder ... Since having my engine replaced with a used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
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I have a 2004 Camry XLE V6 with about 70k with a CEL P0171 that came on yesterday. Looks like that code is for a lean condition. Could it be a bad O2 sensor or is that a different code and what should I look for to fix this code?
Also, I'm not sure if this is related but for the past few months my engine has sounded different. When I first start it up and at low RPM like 2,000 and under the engine sounds like a go kart, not necessarily louder it's just a different lower tone that it never used to have. It has sounded like this for 6 months but the light just came on yesterday.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Celica GT, automatic with 177,000 miles, it has been very well maintained. I started having a problem usually just after starting when it is still not completely warmed up. I try and shift it into reverse or drive, and the shifter says it is in those gears, but the car acts like it is in neutral. Once it gets a little warmer I can try it again and it will slowly shift into reverse or drive, usually though the rpm's seem to go a little higher than normal while it shifts. It seems to drive pretty well after this, shifting-wise, but not exactly perfect.
When it is completely warm though it usually drives really well - mostly I do a lot of highway driving. The transmission fluid is full, and looks perfect, nothing in it, not burnt. Previous owner had it changed a few years ago I believe. The check engine light is on and the codes are Speed Sensor A P0500, P0770 Shift solenoid E. My speedometer also works perfectly by the way. I don't have a lot of good shops around and I feel like the ones that are closest to me will see dollar signs in their eyes when they see that transmission code and will just try and replace the whole transmission right off the bat.
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I own an '02 Toyota Tacoma v6 3.4L 4-speed automatic. After a 2-hour highway drive (not too common, small town) the other day, I started to experience transmission issues (wouldn't always switch gears properly), and the check engine light came on. My scanner indicated P0770 (Shift Solenoid E Malfunction), a transmission fault.
I've spoken with my mechanic, and I've done some research online. My understanding is that it could be a shift solenoid, the valve body, the torque converter clutch, or even just low transmission fluid.
I have owned this truck since '05/28k miles. It now has 95k miles. At about 35k, the dealership installed a new transmission (maybe the former owner was a city-driver, or something), and I had basic dealer transmission service about 30k miles ago. I have an appointment to take it to a local shop (a Ford authorized service center, that also services other makes/models) in a few days.
Except for infrequent highway driving, I don't drive the vehicle "hard" at all. I have the vehicle fully serviced by the dealer at recommended intervals. I have been advised that if this fix requires more than basic transmission service, that I should take it to the dealership (factory tools, etc).
These are some observations about the malfunction:
1) The engine/transmission is still cold (just started the engine). I shift from P to R, to back out of my driveway. The transmission seems to be "stuck" in neutral/park. 5-10 seconds pass, finally transmission engages R gear. Switching from R to D, vehicle operates normally.
2) While driving normally, I accelerate steadily from 20-40mph. The transmission hesitates before switching from 2nd-3rd gear (peaking at 3k rpm, holding steady). When I take my foot off the accelerator slightly, then re-apply it, the vehicle shifts. (EDIT: Subsequent to this same post on another forum, I have been told that first gen Tacomas often have a cold tranny 2nd to 3rd shift hesitation, and I have seen it before, but it's arguably more noticeable since this recent problem developed.)
The transmission has only 60k relatively "easy" miles on it.
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Last night while driving, my transmission made a pretty severe clunk, but then appeared to act normal. However, a check engine light came on so I pulled over immediately as I was literally at the entrance to a gas station.
I looked under the vehicle, under the hood, saw nothing leaking, nothing obviously broken etc. So got back in and started the engine, went to shift into reverse and the transmission clunks, same going from N into D.
I limped it home, but while driving noticed that it was not shifting but stuck in one gear.
This morning I scanned for codes and the only one showing is P0770 Shift Solenoid. I searched this forum though and get 0 results on that code, searching Google is also surprisingly vague. I believe (could be wrong though) that I have the 6R60 Transmission, it is a 2008 Explorer with the 4.6L V8.
Where to check first? When I get time I am going to check the fluid level, but could not last night as there is no dipstick!
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I did a search on the CEL P0770 and P0765 codes and I find plenty in regards to the light on but every post I have seen, says the tranny is working fine. Not the case with mine. Tranny is slipping, and if you let it sit for 30 minutes or so, it will run fine then start surging and slipping. Got to where I couldn't get it to move at all. It says B, D E trans shift solenoid for the codes. I don't want to put in this new solenoid and have not fix the issue. Is my tranny toast? Seems electrical since it will work fine once it sits for a bit. Plus, with the OD disengaged, it seemed to work fine, but even then it was acting up? I bought it used with 140k and don't know if tranny was serviced or not. I think it has due to lots of oil change receipts etc from the past 4 years..
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1995 Tacoma with 2.7 EFI engine has high idle speed. When cranked cold idles at 800 rpm but as it warms up idle speed increases up around 1600 rpm. Does not idle down when clutch is fanned, have checked for vacuum leaks and have also checked most sensors. The exhaust manifold is cracked and I am not sure if this might be part of the problem. I am not convinced issue is not vacuum related but not sure of a definite way to resolve this question or issue.
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I bought my 3.6 in november with 2k miles on and now have 15k, in the last month or 2 I've noticed that at odd times it idles high. It normally idles at 500-600 id say and will randomly peak to 1000-1100. It wouldn't really bother me except it sounds like hell and I have to practically stand on the brakes for it not to jump forward. I've had 13k miles and 6 months of problem free driving
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1998 saturn SL2 idle speed changes low, high, back to low. Some times the car dies, can happen any time a few times in traffic. Once the engines dies the idle stays low for 5 minutes, then the problem goes away for a while (a week). You never know when it will happen.
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I am a new buyer' bought my prius 2008 about a week ago. the is something i cant understand, when a the engine runs at idle speed, the fuel consumption monitor shows 99.9 km/liter ! ! ! and it's also calculated at the average... is it something i should worry about ?
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2004 2.4l engine has high idle speed aprrox. 1000rpm.
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Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
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2004 Grand Cherokee. I was pulling a heavy trailer 1000 miles, and while coming down a mountain pass 50 miles from the end of the trip the check engine light came on. All other gauges (oil pressure, temperature, etc.) had not changed while climbing or descending and I was in low gear while descending to save the brakes. I drove the rest of the way to the destination without incident. I tried turning the Jeep off and restarting it several times to see if the check engine light would turn off and it stayed on. The next morning the light was off when I restarted it and has not come on again since. I hooked it up to a scan tool and received 2 codes: P0152 and P0132. 2 days later I noticed that it was revving high while idling and in Park. It would rev between 1500 and 2200 RPM while in Park, and at 900 RPM while in Drive. Also, while travelling at freeway speeds it seems like it's trying to downshift for no apparent reason. I hold the throttle still and have even tried cruise control and it intermittently increases engine speed, without changing ground speed. I assumed that I got the transmission too hot while climbing/descending and that the error codes listed above (related to O2 sensors) were associated with that, but now I'm wondering if something more has happened.
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Bought my 2006, V6, about 2 months ago. This morning was the first really cold once since I bought the care. When I started it today, the idle speed was about 1200 RPM. It took a few minutes to warm up and then the idle speed dropped to normal. Quick question. Is this normal?
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I have a 2000 z28 Camaro, and I'm having problems with it slipping at high speed. and I noticed today that fluid is leaking and the car loses power as it warms up. it runs great starts right up, just having problems with the tranny. What may be going on, I do check the fluid and fill it when it needs it. and it runs great until I need to get up to around 50mph.
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I have a 2005 accent gls. I use the car for deliveries so a lot of stopping/starting. when the car is hot, the AC compressor will shut off after 5 seconds, and not re-engage until about 20 seconds, then only on for 5, so not keeping cool air. I noticed when I turn the AC on, the condenser fan (i think) kicks into high speed so I assume that's what it should do, but when the issue is happening, it does not go into high speed. the shop I went to wasn't able to determine the problem. they checked pressure and evacuated the system. when it works, it blows cold as it should.
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Ok, ready for a new head scratcher? After replacing the starter, the battery cables, the camshaft position sensor, several hoses that were broken and/or disconnected, a wire for the transmission "forgot the name of it, but technically it was a cable with a piece of plastic that connected to the throttle", air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery temperature sensor, ignition coil, several missing fuses, I got a new code.
This code came up and I believe it is the same code that came up before, but I think it got masked by the battery temperature sensor and the "random cylinder misfire." It only appears when I reach speeds of 60 mph or above, the code is P1899 and when I took it to Autozone, Oreilly's, and Dick Poe Dodge, they were unable to figure out what the code meant.
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