Camry :: Broken Wire Harness Spark Plugs
Jun 27, 2015
Two of my plugs locking clips broke today on the wire harness side where the coil over plugs into the harness today while changing spark plugs. They will plug back up, but they won't lock together like they are suppose to. How critical is this? It is my wife's car will she break down? I drove the car maybe twelve miles, and everything seemed fine.
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'03 Solara 4 cyl, 135K repl. Fuel pump, 45# press ok, NO scan tool code(s), turns over fine, no spark 2 plug. Started/ran fine before fuel pump change.
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I have a 2008 Camry, 2.4L, and used the spark plugs change DIY sticky and it seemed to go painlessly. However, after the new spark plugs, the car seems to idle rough. It has 95k miles, and I did the following in the same tune-up:
1. Changed Oil
2. Replaced Air Filter
3. Changed Spark Plugs
4. Cleaned Battery Terminals
5. Cleaned MAF Sensor
6. Cleaned plugs connecting to ignition coils
I used OEM Toyota plugs, and even called the dealer to see if the gap needed to be set. And they affirmed me that the gap is preset on these plugs.
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I have a 2006 Toyota camry v6 1mz-fe engine. My buddy changed the all 6 spark plugs using Toyota oem denso.
The car drive weird after that. When I am on the stop light, the car is shaking ( coming from the engine area ).
When I am driving 60 mph, it shakes .
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My 93 camry v6 has spark jumping all over the place from the coil wire.I bought some new plug wires but only used the coil so far to see a minor improvement.I'll wait till it's dark to see where and if there is any more leakage.Plug wires are only 5mm thick.Is there something better than this(duralast) out there?
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I am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
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This past Sunday, I replaced the spark plugs on my 2008 Toyota Camry CE, following one of the sticky DIYs. My car has approximately 107,xxx miles.
Last night on my drive home from work my CEL came on. First time seeing a CEL light since my BMW days, . Luckily, I have a OBDII scanner at home and after running the scanner, it gave me the following trouble codes:
- P0101
- P0172
I went ahead cleaned the air filter (I have an Injen SRI installed).
After doing some research on the interwebs, I have concluded that this code has to do with the MAF. Time permitting, I am going to clean the MAF sensor later tonight. In the meantime I reset the CEL, to see if it will come on again.
My only question, which I am unable to find an answer to, is:
Can there be a possibility that the P0101 and P0172 trouble codes be related to me replacing the spark plugs, or is this just a mere coincidence?
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I recently replaced the spark plugs on my 2002 Camry SE V6 (Gen 5). Let me just say that it was INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to reach the rear 3 plugs as they sit underneath the intake manifold, way to the rear of the engine compartment. To reach those, I had to unplug some wires reaching on top of the engine, then loosen the intake manifold.
Along the way I broke a tiny air valve that sits underneath intake manifold, and replaced it right away, before starting the car.
When everything was put back together, the car started wonderfully, only to notice the engine light come on. I had the codes checked at the dealer and they indicated a malfunctioning Catalytic Converter and A/F Sensor and some other emissions stuff. Later that day, the VCS/TRAC OFF light came on as well. The service guy at the dealer said those typically come on together with the Check Engine light, which sounds like something he pulled out of somewhere!
The car drives well, no hesitation, no weird behavior, but has no traction control, naturally. While loosening the manifold I had to use a little force to flex it out of place. My guess is that it I may have yanked something out place: may be a wire issue, or a sensor.
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My old 1996 Camry with 2200 cc 4 cylinder engine, frequently keeps losing power to the spark plugs. I have changed the fuel filter and the ignition coil. That did not work. I also noticed that the car was starting when I unplug and replug the primary wire plug to the ignition coil. So I have replaced the primary power plug with a six inch pigtail and a used plug purchased from a salvage yard. This is not working either. The Toyota dealer near my house want to replace the igniter and the Engine Control Module just to be sure that these are not the sources of problem. The dealer did not test these parts. So I refused to replace the parts without a proper test. I would like to test these parts. Is there a test available for the igniter and ECM that could be performed. I have access to a lot of tools. I need a schematic and/or test to test these components.
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I have an 09 camry se 4cyl with 165k. I believe the service interval on the plugs is 100k. However, 75% of my miles are from highway driving. Plainly put, the car still drives like brand spankin new and get gets 30mpg hwy. This tells me the plugs are doing their job just fine. What concerns would you have if any?
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Changed the spark plugs on my 2006 Camry today. Everything went smoothly and quickly except for the fact that I broke all the little keeper clips on the connector plugs that connect to the coil packs. I called my Toyota dealers and one said I had to replace the entire wire harness. The other found the connector plugs for around $8 each. Will the broken clips be a problem with the connectors eventually coming off from vibration if I don't replace them? I'm not sure how to replace the connectors if I go that route. How to go about replacing the connector plugs?
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2002 Toyota Solara SLE v6 w/ 209k miles
Drove the car home from church yesterday, this morning went to start and wouldn't start..
Tested the Fuel Pump and that looks good.. Pulled a spark plug and did a spark test and I get no spark.
After reading up I get the sense it is either the Crank Angle Sensor or the Timing Belt snapped .. I don't know the last time the timing belt was changed, we got the vehicle @ 190k miles..
Does a no spark symptom sound like a timing belt that could have snapped? I believe these are non-interference engines so it should be ok..
When turning the car over the RPM gauges doesn't look like it is moving but wanted to see for a complete spark failure.
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I own a 2002 GTI and my sunroof was damaged beyond repair.
A local headliner shop had a used 2004 Jetta sunroof which he sold to me. The shop owner said everything was in working order with the sunroof except the wire harness that runs to the sunroof was missing the plug since it was cut. He recommended just taking the plug from my GTI sunroof motor and soldering it onto the Jetta motor since it may throw off the "timing" of the sunroof motor and would need to be recalibrated if removed. Keep in mind he is an authorized Webasco dealer so I took him at his word.
I cut my plug off of my GTI sunroof motor harness and began to solder it onto the Jetta sunroof.
I quickly noticed the Jetta sunroof motor had one extra wire (Brown). I didn't think it would be a big deal since my GTI doesn't have 6 wires and only requires 5 so I mounted the new sunroof with the Jetta motor onto the car.
The sunroof retracted back into the "fully open" position and would close but would not go into the "vent" position. Each time I would turn the dial to the "vent" position, the sunroof would slide back into the "fully open" position.
I thought this was a bit strange and now I am beginning to wonder if I need to swap the GTI sunroof motor on my car due to it not have the extra wire or is the Jetta sunroof motor going to work fine but another issue is causing this to happen?
Below are the differences in the two sunroof motors. Both are Bosch products.
Jetta Sunroof Motor - Part Number : GDO 849 696 564
This part has 6 wires that connect to it.
White, Green, Gray, Blue, Purple, and Brown
Where as the GTI has only 5 wires on it.
GTI Sunroof Motor - Part Number : GDO 849 696 566
White, Green, Gray, Blue, and Purple
The difference between the two is the additional BROWN found in the Jetta sunroof motor.
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I have a 2001 ford explorer sport and realized that the oxygen sensor on the passenger side behind the cat was unplugged from the harness.
I am unable to find the harness and dont know where its supposed to go.
I would like to get this fixed right away but can not find a diagram anywhere, or a manual...
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As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
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I'm trying to find a part number for the wiring harness that sits on top of the motor and plugs into the valve cover gaskets. The previous owner replaced the pigtails but the wires were cut so far back that there is virtually nothing left coming out of the harness. What the actual harness looks like other than it has the 9 pin plug on it or whether both sides require an individual harness. What is the part number or picture of said harness. Just in case.... it's a 2001 7.3.
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While pulling the bed and dropping the fuel tank to replace the sending unit, I noticed a green wire that had been cut extending out of the harness of wires that connect the rear lights. a bunch of cars were tagged in the neighbor hood and they probably cut that wire. it connects to a black and red wire in the Y at the harness. Where does it go to? Simple ground wire? No tow package on the truck either. Where it leads too?
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I have a 2007 F-350 SRW. I bought some mirrors of craigslist from two different sellers. They are from 2008 or later, they didn't know the exact year. I have looked in the tech folder and searched and searched. could not find wires that are the same color as mine. Yes, mirrors are OEM. I need to know what color goes to what color.
Do they match color to color? question mark represents color that doesn't line up
drivers side door colors=============== new drivers side mirror colors
green------------------------------------------------- green
black--------------------------------------------------black
green/white-------------------------------------------black/white?
blue----------------------------------------------------blue
yellow--------------------------------------------------yellow
red------------------------------------------------------red
brown---------------------------------------------------brown
passenger door colors=================new passenger mirror colors
green/purple------------------------------------------white?
black---------------------------------------------------black
white/blue---------------------------------------------black/white?
yellow--------------------------------------------------yellow
green---------------------------------------------------green
brown---------------------------------------------------brown
brown/purple-------------------------------------------purple?
Side note these are in no particular order as far as pin location.
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The wire pulled out of the back of the connector on the harness side... I know I could just cut the connector off and hard wire the thing together but I would like do do it as cleanly as possible...
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Any limited number of lights the factory trailer harness on the truck can tolerate? I'm looking to add some extra running lights on my trailer, also want to put a couple of lights on each running board on the truck, they will be tied in with the trailer harness since it is not monitored by the BCM. I did a search on this a few different ways and couldn't find anything.
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My fathers truck had the tail lights go out the other night so we checked the fuse and the bulbs both good. Took it to ford and they found that a wire harness in the front left wheel well had rubbed through and needed replacement. I went and checked mine and yup it was rubbing through the wire just not all the way yet. Might want to take a look. It is at the top of the well near the coil spring. I will get the camera out tomorrow in the daylight and take a picture of the location.
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