Camry :: Battery Light Came On While Driving - Rough Idle / RPMs Lower Than Usual
Apr 12, 2015
Yesterday my mom used my car and the battery light came on while driving, but she didn't really care about it and was driving the whole time on the battery. When she came back home the car was barely even alive I couldn't even start it. I replaced the alternator (duralast from auto zone) and the serpentine belt, but now I have a very rough idle and the rpm's are lower than usual. They are 1500 instead of 1750. Is this normal and eventually it'll go away or did I mess something up?
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I have a 2004 SD with 5.4 that is running pretty rough both at idle and driving. Truck shakes a lot at lower rpms. I have a scan tool and had a misfire on cylinder 4 so I replaced the coil and the plug. Also replaced the idle air control valve. Plan on replacing O2 B1 S2. (One of my codes) even after replacing the coil and plug I'm still getting misfire detected from cylinder 4??? Other codes I had were misfire detected on he first 1000 revolutions. That hasn't come back though.
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2007 Camry LE. This morning while driving, she noticed a shuddering that scared her. She called me and parked the car as soon as she could. I went to drive it around and, as she had said, it was shuddering.
I drove it for a bit, neighborhood and highways, and took note of everything. The RPMs were low - About 500. I'm not sure where it usually idles, I rarely drive this car, but my Jetta idles around 900 so this seems strange to me. RPM gauge occasionally bounces around at idle. Once the car gets moving there are no issues. Only at complete stop. It feels like the car is about to stall.
I drive a manual and if I keep it in gear while approaching a stop it makes the same shuddering because the RPMs are too low for the selected gear. This is what it reminds me of.
Here is a video of what's going on under the hood. As you can see, the airbox is vibrating heavily. That's the most obvious place. The engine and intake manifold are also bouncing around, but it's hard to see in the iPhone video.
Video ... ... ...
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As of late, my 06 Camry (I4) idle's real rough @ 600 rpms when in park. It stays the same in drive with the A/C on. However, when I switch the A/C off, for about 2 secs, the idle will be smooth before dropping down in rpms. Some folks have said this is normal, but I've had this happened to my car before. I've got 135K on it so I'm guess a tune up is in order.
I'm new in the game of working on my car myself since a past issue with the dealer on my '06. So if all is needed is a tune up, I can do that myself with the parts of my choice.
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I've made posts about a rough idle before now I noticed something new about it. I noticed when I approach a red light the vibrations don't start immediately. They start as soon as the RPMS would drop a little. They stay above 500 but it seems like it's below 750. As if the engine is slightly starved from power? Now i'm wondering if it could be related to another problem I have.
Whenever I start the car, the battery light flickers until the car is started all the way. This is on a 2007 Camry 4 cylinder. So far everything iv'e done is: New NGK Spark Plugs, NEW OEM mounts (all 4) Seafoamed the engine, Seafoamed the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, New air filter, and cleaned the air filter box, replaced the PCV Vlave, new belt, new alternator (duralast), and a new battery (from autozone).
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Have a jazz blue chipped tuned with giac.. It does this random times.. When I come to a red light on idle the rpms go up and down just a bet but never stalls. The car vibrates and the engine shakes a bit. Engine is stable when car is on and off. Idk if its motor mounts or what?
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My 07 camry's battery died last week and I got it jumped, drove about a mile and while at idle it felt as if the alternator was not charging the battery and It was slowly dying. Took it to Tires Plus, they said the computer forgot how to idle, so it was misfiring and threatening to shut down at every idle. 80 dollars later...it was fixed, for a week.
This morning, my battery was dead again, again from leaving a power connection unscrewed that came from my fog lights attached to the battery in the car after cleaning it on sunday, called AAA. He said that I have to get a screw to screw it back in or it will die once I turn off the engine again.
I work at a construction plant so we have quite a few nuts and washers laying around. Well it had a rough idle again, on the way to work, lights would be bright then dim again and vibrating the car, like it's struggling to keep the power.
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2002 Camry, V6, Auto
Failure description: Battery light came on at low RPM's, under 1k, about 30 miles from home last night. Highway driving for the majority. About mile 25 abs, airbag and brake lights flash on the dash, shortly after it looks like radio is struggling to stay powered. Mile 28 pull off high way. Car struggles to idle. Dash is acting erratic (tach and speedo also now) and it looks like the battery is dying. Mile 29 battery dies. I was able to get a new battery and get the last mile so to home. Still struggled to not die at low RPMs.
The mileage is roughly right but also more tied to the chronology of how things progressed. My gut feel is it could be the alternator - I'll get the multimeter on the car when I get home and see how it's behaving. However I'm surprised it wasn't able to run okay with a new battery, at least for the short distance. What things I should check/measure once I get into it aside from the alternator?
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I have a 1987 Convertible Celica GT, with Manual Transmission. The car will not idle at lower RPM. I had someone look at it, and they have it where it will idle at 2000 RPM, but anything lower than that, and the engine will die when not giving it gas.
The engine accelerates great and runs great at any speed, but if you push in the clutch without giving it gas, it will die, unless the idle speed is cranked up like it is now. What this might be?
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I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 150,000 miles that is meticulously maintained. This past winter (as far as winter goes in San Diego) the engine would run rough and the rpm's would drop close to stalling when stopping at a light for the first 2 or 3 miles. After that the engine has warmed and there is no problem. Could this be the intake gaskets needing replacement. This only happens on a cool or damp, rainly morning.
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My oil temp usually sits around 170-190f . The water temp is always at 200. This past week, I took a 3000km trip to Maine. Great scenery!!!! The water temp would drop to 170 from time to time, Looking at a thermostat change soon, but today it pegged 200f all day, 5hr drive at highway speeds but the oil temp only rose to 150-155. Is there a thermostat in the oil cooler system?
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Car misses horrible at times at idle and lower RPM's, shakes the whole car. MPG around 32. Runs better when car is fully warmed up. PO171 and PO 300, 301 and 304 codes come up.
Here's what I've done so far to try to correct the problem:
Cleaned mass air flow sensor. No change.
Replaced mass air flow sensor. No change.
Replaced plugs and ignitors (coils). No change.
Replaced PCV valve. No change.
Replaced upstream O2 sensor. Same codes come up but MPG increased to 37.
Replaced throttle body. No change.
Car does not miss when accelerating hard. Sometimes runs perfect at idle and lower rpm's, but mpg is way low as it used to be in the 50's or higher. Car idles perfect in neutral. Always runs perfect the first 3-4 seconds when you first start it, then starts shaking. If I put my finger in the throttle body when it's running poorly, apparently disrupting the air flow a bit, the idle smooths to perfect.
I have an extra computer, although I don't know if you have to program the key for it to work. I don't suspect this is the problem anyway. I haven't changed the fuel injectors. I can't hear a vacuum leak.
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I have a toyota avensis 2001 1.8 vvt-i. Suddenly when i was going to start the car, it started to vibrate and rpm got lower than usual and the engine light was lit. So i changed the spark plug (all of the four). It did still vibrate but less, i could feem it. And when i tried to drive upwards with 1st gear the car started to smell and couldn't get up. It lost do much power. It can drive max. 60 kmh
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After changing my battery my car seems to do fine as long as you are going down the road but as soon as you stop at a light it like shakes like a rough idle but the RPM's don't move and it never dies. If you have a lot of pull (heater, lights, radio etc) on it, it seems to get worse. It was in the shop for 65 days with engineers looking at it an all they say is its normal. I say this isn't normal because it wasn't doing this until I changed the battery.
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I have an 2008 camry le i4 and every time I'm stopped at a red, the idle is so rough. would the dealer know anything about it to fix it? My car's about 2 months old and has 4000 miles on it
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This is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
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When my Camry is in DRIVE and sitting at a red light for example, my car will shake. It feels like it idles rough. If I put it in neutral the shaking goes away... only when in drive.
I took it to Firestone who mentioned I had a dirty throttle body. So I get this cleaned and the shaking has significantly reduced. However after a few months I'm back at square one. Dirty throttle body and care is shaking again. (Yes air filter is clean)
I noticed two things that I think might be contributing... After 5,000 miles my oil is pretty black and very low. (Time for an oil change) When I swipe my finger on the exhaust pipe, its really black but no black smoke comes out. I don't see any oil leaks outside of the engine, its actually pretty clean.
So two questions, is the low oil and black exhaust pipe normal? Why would my throttle body keep getting dirty?
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Trying to get some assistance on a mystery oil leak. I see wetness above the oil pan on the left side near a tube. That is the most fresh oil I can find at the highest point. The passenger side and starter also have drips, but i am thinking it may be running across the oil pan rail as I cannot any source on that side. Also, recently started having a rough idle - surging. Of course I thought ICP, doesnt feel wet.
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Yesterday as soon as I started my car, I noticed a high pitched whining noise. As I drove, it seemed to stop, but as I slowed down and idled, it came back. After driving a couple miles, the battery light came on, so I turned off the AC, radio, and lights and it went off again, but as I sat at stop lights it would flicker on and off again.
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Not sure if this is normal so I've found that my car is idling very low in rpm's and feels like the car is shivering along with me! (hint: its really cold here) I took a very short video [URL] ....
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My golf 2.0 vw isn't doing so good right now. It has 227000 miles on it. It has been driving great, and then last week it started to idle rough. It idles between 600-800 rpms. it fluctuates between 600-800 rpms. It had the check engine light on before this happened i was told by my brother that it was an 02 sensor. I had it checked for what is causing the engine light to come on today at o Rileys, and it came up with 11 codes. Some of the codes where 02 sensors, it was running to rich, needed a new computer, evaps system, fuel pump, fuses, coil pack, spark plugs, It shakes when you sit in it when it is idling like not a bad shake but a small one you cal feel, l'm including a video of it running.
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