I Have a 2005 Camry LE. My remote is not working.
I had the remote battery changed, and also bought a new one on ebay and did the programming, which was successful, but still not working.
So old battery was on its last breath, made it to autozone, got a new Duralast Gold battery (don't really know how good it is, but had 5 year warranty and 3 year replacement). figured what the hell. anyway, now the car idles at about 500rpm or sometimes a little below that and shakes like its about to stall. never stalls though.
View 12 RepliesI took the battery out of my key. When I replaced it, my remote does not work anymore. Does it need to be reprogrammed when you remove the battery? If so, what is the process?
View 2 RepliesI have changed the batteries in the remote for my MY 2000 Jetta MKIV VR6. Now the remote is not working. A search suggests I need to program the remote using a specific procedure. Alas, I have found various procedures, and so far none has worked.
First of all, I have two keys, Both were functional. One still is.
What I tried:
-Put key with fob in ignition and turn key to accessory mode position.
-Wait 5 seconds
-Hold lock button on 5 down for 10 seconds.
-Turn ignition off and remove key.
-Close doors on car and trey to lock/unlock - not working!
I'm sure I can find a few more suggested methods, but what's the proper method?
Just FYI for those that may encounter key fob issues after replacing the battery:
Yesterday, I noticed the one of key fobs stopped working (2009 Tig SEL). The key fob battery was dead (tested the battery in another device). My 2nd key fob still worked, so I used that until I was able to pickup a new battery (2032) from the local store. Got home replaced the battery in the key fob that did not work. The key fob now lit the LED whenever I hit any of the buttons on the remote, but would not actually unlock/lock any of the doors / hatch or PANIC functions.
Called my local VW dealer and they to swing by (I work less than 5 minutes from them). One of the techs came out an verified the the key fob did not work, but did light up the LED. He told me they have seen this before and it does not always happen from changing the battery, but here is how he got the key fob to work:
Use the flip out key and manually open the driver's side front door (remove the little key cover on the rear of the door handle). 'Cycle' the key clockwise and counter-clockwise. Doing this locked and unlocked the veh / flashing the lights and sounded the beep. Remove keyfob and then use. The keyfob was now recognized and worked.
So, I have a 2005 Toyota Camry remote locks have not worked for a while. Also started having the issue with the two front doors where the manual electric locks worked intermittently. I replaced the little RC car motors in the door lock actuators today and got that squared away so that works great now. I also ordered a new remote to program. I programmed the remote and everything seems to go fine with that (The locks cycle when they are supposed to etc.). However, once I program the remote it just doesn't work.
So, trying to figure out what is going on here. Should I just return the remote and try to get a different one...but would it even program if it the remote where not compatible.
Also, read some about about a Door control receiver module. which that is basically a wireless receiver right? I would think if it could receive a signal and cycle the locks during programming then it should work normally??
I drove the car for years and just did not worry about it but have passed it down to my teenage daughter and would like her to be able to unlock the doors while approaching the car so she can just hop in and go without having to fumble around with keys.
My remote engine starter has stopped working. It still locks, unlocks, opens the trunk, and triggers the alarm. I have already replaced the battery, with no luck.
View 3 RepliesI really don't know whats going on. First my remote to lock my car stops working and it wont take the programming. After about a month now when I turn my car off the horn starts going off as if I pressed the panic button. Do I need to get a new electronic part or something.?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2003 Camry I4. My RKE stopped working. First I checked the battery in the remote, it reads 3v like it should. I searched and found how to reprogram the the receiver, so I tried that. I did the door and key dance and got to where when you pull the key out and the door locks lock then unlock. I try pushing the lock and unlock button, then just the lock button as per the instructions and I get nothing. Supposed to get one cycle of the locks if it works and tow cycles if it doesn't. I get neither of those, nothing happens. So I buy a new remote off of eBay (brand new, never used, OEM remote). I try the reprogram door dance again and get the same results. The battery in the new one reads 3v like it should as well. So I go off to a junk yard to replace the receiver door controller, I found one and replaced it and I get the same exact results.
View 8 RepliesI was removing a remote starter off of my 04 camry because it no longer worked. After I removed it i noticed that the radio and clock were not working. I checked the blue/red accessory wire on the ignition harness and noticed it looked like it had seen better days. So i decided to make the connect more solid by cutting the weak point and crimping it back together. Now I put the key in and turn it to run and I ONLY get the CEL light, the airbag light and the brake light(parking brake is engaged). I can't utilize the windows, it wont even attempt to crank, the a/c and heat don't work now. I checked all the wires in the area of the ignition harness and all are solid connection (tested with a voltmeter). I have tried to jump start the car with another car as well as unhooking the battery for 2 hours and nothing has changed. I also triple checked every single fuse i can see in the passenger compartment and under the hood and all are good. I also checked the circuit board behind the fuse panel under the dash and everything looked ok.
View 13 Repliesthe problem is, i was listening to music in my prius 05 setting the equalizer. After i got my work done, i pulled the key and closed the door. when i was pressing the lock button in my remote key, it wasnt working. Then i went inside my car and even the locks and other things werent working.. nothing was working eventually.
View 7 RepliesMy 1999 Camry has a starting issue. Sometimes, but not always, when I turn the key to start the car, nothing happens - no clicking, nothing. When I try again, immediately, the car starts up. This has been going on for about a week. Battery? Starter? Or?
View 5 RepliesI have a problem with my central locking, I changed the battery in the fob but it won't lock the car, if I lock with the key the fob will unlock the car. When I press the lock button there is a clunk-clunk as if the central locking is working and I can hear the noise in the doors and the boot but nothing happens. The battery was totally flat and I haven't been using the fob for a long time but I seem to recall it used to lock.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2009 XLE Camry which has been running smoothly for years. I failed to replace my old battery on-time and my drained battery surprised me on Christmas morning. I tried to jump-start it, long story short but something went wrong during jump-start and I lost all the lights on my dash (I can't say I didn't cross the cables but I'm pretty sure I was fully awake that morning).
I bought a new battery and replaced the old one, lights on dash are back on, the engine starts but there is no acceleration at all, the car just moves forward on D and backwards on R but no acceleration on gas pedal. I did some research and figured I might have blown a fuse, I opened my fuse box under my hood and found out my 10 Amp ETCS fuse is blown. I changed the fuse and now acceleration is back, I can drive the car but I get this 'VSC System Check' error on my dash, the 'Check Engine' light is also on and the AC fan is not working.
Could it be another blown fuse? Is this something I can fix by myself?
Does the 12v battery need to be changed on a regular schedule? There are many articles on "how to" but could find no info when it is needed.
View 19 RepliesJust changed out my 12v battery in my 2008 Prius, I found water in the battery compartment. There have been heavy rains this past weekend but it should not have entered the car.
View 11 RepliesI tried a few used batteries I had laying around, so then I ordered the exact battery that was in the fob, Panasonic 2032 and it still doesn't work. The car has always sensed my hand at door and I still don't need to put the key in the slot. I can just push start, but the lock and unlock buttons don't respond.
I've read that the red light should come on when the buttons are pressed, and they don't with the new battery so the new battery is probably too weak.
I changed a bad cell in my hybrid battery (only one cell was bad) and put everything back together and it wont start. I've double checked all connections, fuses, everything I took off. I put the orange plug back in, fiddled with it, pushed it in more. It's got a brand new 12V battery and I dropped it off at autozone to get it charged up as well. Here are some pics and what it's showing .....
View 5 RepliesI have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 55,000 miles. I was told to replace the plugs and battery by my local automotive shop. I decided to do it myself to save a couple of dollars just this past week. I filled up the car today and noticed the MPG dropped significantly. Normally a full the tank shows I have 420 miles to go. Today it showed 370 a difference of 50 miles.
I have two ideas why this happened:
1) Replacing the battery has caused the computer to reset and as a result it is showing the wrong mileage. After a week or two of running the correct mileage will show. I drove the car about 150 miles after changing the battery and thought this would of been enough time for the computer to figure out the MPG if this was the problem.
2) I caused damage to the Iridium plugs when I gapped them and did not notice it. I used Autolite XP6203 model and gapped them at .044. Autolites do not come pre-gapped I was told. The car is not hesitating and runs smooth. I am thinking this is the problem but not 100% certain.
Is my idea about the computer valid and I should give it some time to recalculate MPG? I am thinking to give it a couple of tanks of gas and see if the car fixes itself
We just got our 2012 Camry XLE about 1 month ago. Today, the smart key push start didn't work; the brake pedal seemed like it was seized, but the green (key) light did manage to come on, indicating it knew the key was there. When I pressed the start, all of the dash lights were flickering, but the car wouldn't start. Was towed to the dealer, who ran a diagnostic that indicated the battery had failed (the options for the diagnostic are pass, charge, and fail). They installed a new battery and it seems fine.
One of the doors wasn't completely closed overnight - would this have caused the battery to be done? I could see if it caused the battery to drain, requiring a boost / charge.
Recently, we had to change the 12V auxiliary battery on our 2010 Prius IV. Everything went smoothly and the entire procedure took less than 20 minutes. We thought everything was good, until we turned on the radio.
Since we changed the 12V battery, the FM radio (which is part of the NAV console) has great difficulty keeping any station tuned. Before changing the 12V battery, we could drive around and listen to our favorite FM radio stations; now, the radio frequently loses reception, and our music frequently gets interrupted with static.
It's been a couple months, and the situation has not improved. We took a look at the antenna, and nothing looks out of the ordinary. It seem odd that changing a 12V aux battery would cause this problem, but we have not made any other changes (not even an oil change) for several months.