Camry :: Battery Hooked Up Wrong / Change120-amp Fuse
Jun 17, 2012
I did my biggest screw up today I went to hook up a new battery and didn't notice the terminals were opposite of the old one. I hooked up one and as soon as I touched the other terminal it sparked and the horn honked. I straightened it out but now the car won't start. I checked all the fuses and found one blown. Changed it still no good. What should I check now To all who come to this thread needing the fuse how to, it is on page 2. It is also on a gen 6 Camry 2009 le.
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Unhooked battery on 2011 truck. I unhooked mine today then installed my magnaflow exhaust. then i hooked the battery back up. And now my battery light comes on when i turn the key ahead. my sync doesn't work, i push the button and it won't say listening. and when i turn the key off the stereo won't stay on, it says it's shutting the system down to save the battery. i am going to take it in on monday to see if they can fix it. i just hope it isn't my fault. Any certain way of disconnecting it.
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External LED hooked to GPR
I have gone through around 7 alternators in the past 18 months. I currently have a new NAPA alt and new interstate batteries. Today I noticed that my battery light is on again. I also noticed that my yellow squiggly Glow Plug inrush dash light was on at the same time. However, I do not believe that my GPR was active BECAUSE... I have an external red LED that lights up any time my GPR is active. When my GP dash light came on my external light was off. I had just driven 26 miles and my truck is warm and the outside temp is around 70 Fahrenheit.
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Was having problems with trailer wiring blowing a fuse so I pulled a fuse, the wrong fuse, out while it was running and the whole rig died. Key was locked in the ignition. Window down, ect.. The dash lights and radio works that's about all. vagcom will not hookup because I can't turn the ignition on. The alarm goes off if I open any door......
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I have a 2002 Camry... So I stupidly connected the battery backwards, negative to positive, etc... Now there's no electrical at all, no dashboard lights, nothing. I see the 100a fuse is blown. Does this signify that the rest of my car was protected ? Will replacing that fuse probably fix the problem or when the battery is connected backwards does the rest of the electric get fried as well ?
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Four or five years ago, our 2001 Toyota Camry (and my wife and I) had the misfortune of being in a T-bone accident when someone unexpectedly pulled a left turn in front of us and gave us no time to stop. We had the car front-end repaired at a collision repair center, and we were good to go, I thought. As I drove away, I noticed the newly replaced seat belts seemed to "lock" in place at times. They did lock at a sudden stop, as expected, but when entering the car and attempting to put on the seat belts, they would sometimes lock and release, causing me a repeated tug-of-war as I attempted to get enough slack to fasten the belt. This occurred on both the driver and passenger front belts.
Needless to say, I returned the car to the shop, and they cheerfully replaced the belts a second time. When I picked up the car, I first tested the belts, which seemed to perform flawlessly, so I drove home. My joy was short-lived, however, because on the way home, the locking problem returned. I returned to the collision repair shop yet again, and they replaced the belts a third time. The shop foreman personally tested the belts to make sure they worked, and he watched as I did the same. However, yet again, on the way home, the belts would lock unexpectedly.
Through much experimentation, I finally realized that if the car was facing any degree of a downward angle, I could pull the belts very easily and smoothly, yet they locked if I jerked the belts hard. This was as expected. If the car was level or facing an upward angle, however, pulling smoothly on the belt would result in them locking. This seemed very odd to me, and I mentioned it to the collision foreman. He immediately called Toyota to ask about it, and they had never heard of such a symptom.
So, for the past five years, I have been enduring the craziness of getting in my car and doing a repeated pull "negotiation" with the seat belt. I have also noticed that when I begin driving forward, if I will apply the brakes gently, both myself and any passenger can then easily pull the belts and fasten them while the gradual braking is occurring. It doesn't seem to be a safety issue because they do lock on a sudden hard stop, but it is counter-intuitive to me that a gradual braking allows the belts to move freely. Is it possible they could have installed the belts upside down or backwards, or something?
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I have a 2007 f-150 fx4 supercab with the 5.4, it has about 37,500 miles on it. Yesterday I hooked up my trailer with no more than 800lbs of lawn mowers and as soon as I was on my way I heard a terrible rattling noise coming from the truck or the trailer. I unhooked the trailer and drove up and down the driveway and heard no noise, hooked the trailer back up and right away the rattle came back. At this point I hooked up the trailer to my dad's truck hoping it was the trailer and I drove it around the neighborhood hoping to hear the noise. No noise. So I hooked back up to my truck to drive home and the noise came right back and was even worse.
The noise was a rattling noise which I would say sounded like bb's rattling around in something, which had/has my thinking catalytic converter but no check engine light or anything has popped up. Also the noise doesn't happen unless the truck is hooked up to my little trailer with weight that I consider insignificant. So my question is could it be the catalytic converter and the the light load causes it and it will eventually occur all the time, or could it be something else that I'm not considering. I'm going to try to get it into a local mechanic but with it being the end of the month he's probably swamped with inspections. I don't want to drive it until I know what it is because I don't want to do damage to the truck.
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I bought a set of driving lights to mount at the back of my F250 for extra light when backing up, and hooked them up to Upfitter #4, but they do not work. I mounted them on the hitch, grounded them both on the bed (where a support bracket attaches), ran the power wire up to the front of the truck, and connected it to the white blunt cut pass through wire by the master cylinder. Then inside the cab, I connected the other end of the white pass through wire to the orange/lt. blue wire for upfitter #4. I started the truck, flipped on the #4 switch, and nothing. What I did wrong?
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Have a 2001 f350 that runs great until you hook a trailer to it. Once a trailer is hooked to it and you are on a slight incline (and I mean slight) it will not go into D.. It's like it gets stuck in N.. Have to jam it into 1 to get it to go.. Once level again it will go back to D... Truck has 177k miles on it.
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On my MKIV Jetta the wire going to S177 is getting super hot an melting my fuse box, an I am talking from the time I start my car to pop my hood the fuse box cover will burn your hand. I used a voltage meter an it reads 14v but the wire running from the fuse box to the alt gets super hot, an it only gets hot on the side of the fuse box. Could it be a bad alt?
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My daughter's 2004 Jetta GL 2.0L has had a second occurrence where the fuse box on top of battery gets melted and damages fuse & wires. Last time I had the whole box, Alternator wire, fuses replaced and now it happens again. What's causing this to happen? I have read a few searched threads on this problem, but now one has stated a cure to this problem. Only suggestions to change the parts. This second occurrence has caused a slew of electrical problems and CEL's to pop up. including ABS, cooling/fan & a/c problems.
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Can't find a solid answer. But where to put your fuse box after relocating your battery? Don't wanna just have it chillen there when I move the battery.
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I have a 2002 tb ltz and am having power issues with the front passenger door. The battery went dead one night and after boosting the truck, all the switches on the right front door have stopped working. Checked the fuse under the rear seat and even swapped it with the drivers side fuse and the window worked for a few days, but nothing else. Now it has quit working again.
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I was installing xenon supply HIDs in my 2012 Sonata and when attaching the power cable to the battery my ratchet went ahead and touched metal while it was assisting me in tightening the nut
Small spark, tiny puff of smoke and the popping sound associated with such an event. I see what appears to be a little fuse under a clear plastic cover on the positive battery terminal itself. On it says 150 AMP. the pop sound came from that. So I am assuming its blown.
Here is my real concern...the red battery symbol now stays on when I start the car...
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I replaced the hybrid battery in my 2005 Prius today & when I disconnected the 12v battery the wrench arced & I assume that I blew a fuse. I have looked, but have not found anything. I hope I am missing something obvious.
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I got my battery replaced Monday evening and drove it home. Tuesday it drove fine, and Wednesday afternoon the power steering went out on the road and the car pretty much died after I was able to pull into a neighborhood. Before it died all the warning lights kept flashing and a bunch of other stuff on the dashboard was going crazy.
The AAA tech came and did a reading on the battery and told me it was dead, and also noticed there was a mark on one of the terminals which he said was the result of someone trying to jump it (whether incorrectly or not, I'm not sure). All the settings in my car were also reset after I got the car back Monday night.
Anyways, I got the car taken to a dealership and they are telling me the alternator fuse is done and needs to be replaced, upon which they will do another check and make sure the alternator itself is working properly.
My question is, is this the result of the battery being put in improperly/incorrectly?
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I have a 92 st, all stock. It was given to me by a friend that moved. The car was in very good shape before sitting for about two months (I had to go pick it up an hr and a half away, then replace the battery and starter).
The only issue it's had is the heater fan control will blow the circuit when turned on, which will kill my gauges, not to mention no fan. I removed the blower fan and bench tested it, seems fine. And with the fan unplugged, I can turn the switch on without blowing the fuse (it's possible that this plug is the only wiring from that switch, not sure).
My question is, is it possible this switch is short circuited and that's what is causing the fuse to blow? And is it possible this switch could be the source of my battery drain?
I was thinking maybe this was an ongoing thing, because the switch hasn't worked in a year and a half, before I got it. Perhaps this was draining the battery, but wasn't showing up because the car was being driven daily. I'm not sure what to do next but don't want to guess and start buying parts.
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I have a dead battery while trying to jump; my car I blew my alternator fuse. I had a friend try to change the fuse but he was unable to get all of the fuse.How can I get all the fuse out to put a new fuse in?
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Had a question about where the battery fuse is located and it's number. I just put a brand new alternator on.my truck. Turns out I might not have needed one, switched the battery with the new alternator on and the truck still went dead after it ran for about 10-12 seconds. So some told me it may be the battery fuse but I don't know which fuse it could be.
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fuse #11 in the battery junction box under hood keeps blowing, the last time I put a fuse in it blew immediately, key was off and lights off. Fuse is for parking lights, dash light and I/P(whatever that is) and switch illumination lights. I have to start following all wires to find bad spot. May just put in piece of metal and watch for smoke...
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In an attempt to install HIDs on my 2013 f150 screw 4x4 I hated them and I broke my truck. I blew a fuse for the left headlight which I replaced.
My battery now reads 11.9v, I have no dash or radio lights and my truck won't even attempt to start. I can't exit park either. My door locks inside the vehicle work but my remote is useless. My headlights and dome lights work but that's it light wise.
Is my battery just too low and needs to be "reset"? If not my battery does it sound like a main relay or the body control module or similar?
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