My battery was dead. Jumped the battery but hooked up cables wrong. Put car on battery charger.
Car has power now. Turns over but does not start. Seems like no power to engine. Engine light is on.
Is there a fuse that needs to be fixed?
2007 Camry LE with 4 cyl.
My wife left the lights on in the 2001 Camry and completely draining the battery. I tried to jump her but the car would not start (turns over great). Also the electrical system was strange in that the lights would not go off and other electrical items did not function. I disconnected the battery and fully recharged it and put it back on. I noticed that the "ALT" (100A) fusible link was blown and replaced it. Car still will not start (turns over great). The electrical problems appear fixed however the radio does not work. I tried to read the codes on the ODB and got "ERR". I checked all other fuses and they are good. I checked the pin-out voltage on the ODB port and was reading ~11.5V. I am wondering if I missed something like is the ECM bad? I can replace this myself for $150, but if I have it towed to a dealer it will cost me $800. Is there a way I can be sure that the ECM is bad, also are there other things to check that I may have missed. Also, when I turn the key to the "on" position, but do not start the car, the "Check engine" light does not illuminate.
View 5 RepliesWe just got our 2012 Camry XLE about 1 month ago. Today, the smart key push start didn't work; the brake pedal seemed like it was seized, but the green (key) light did manage to come on, indicating it knew the key was there. When I pressed the start, all of the dash lights were flickering, but the car wouldn't start. Was towed to the dealer, who ran a diagnostic that indicated the battery had failed (the options for the diagnostic are pass, charge, and fail). They installed a new battery and it seems fine.
One of the doors wasn't completely closed overnight - would this have caused the battery to be done? I could see if it caused the battery to drain, requiring a boost / charge.
This 2005 LeSabre with a 3.8 v-6 ran fine but had a marginal battery. Then the key got left on overnight leaving the battery totally dead. After jumping the battery and letting it charge, the engine cranked fine but refused to start. Haven't had a chance to check for fuel or spark. Why would a dead battery trigger this no start condition?
View 2 RepliesI think I have a battery issue but wanted to ask the group in case someone ran into this before.
Went to start my truck this morning and did the normal dead battery sound but doesn't have enough power to turn the engine. I can see the engine start to turn but can't get over compression.
So I bought a new Interstate battery from Costco, installed it, and same problem. Hooked up a charger and it showed 25%. Let it charge for 4 hours, now it's at 50% and still won't turn over.
I'm going to wait over night and let it charge, but I wanted to ask the group if there is any known problems (Beyond battery) that would do this.
I have not started my truck for some time (about 3 months) and the battery went dead. I recharged the battery and started her up. I then drove my truck about 5 miles and noticed that the water temp gauge was pegged to overheat...unbelievable! So of course I stopped the truck at the the nearest spot that had a water hose. The water was about 2-3 liters low as I could tell. This should not have caused the engine to overheat though. So what happened here. The engine ran ok back home but now I do not know what to do. Is it an electrical issue where the cooling system has a valve that is signaled electronically to open for the water to flow thru the system??
View 14 RepliesIf my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
View 19 RepliesThe car battery in my wife 2002 v6 camry died in the car, so now we can not get into the car to remove the battery, how do i go about unlocking the door with out a lock smith involvement? Oh we tried using the keys that failed.
View 3 RepliesSo old battery was on its last breath, made it to autozone, got a new Duralast Gold battery (don't really know how good it is, but had 5 year warranty and 3 year replacement). figured what the hell. anyway, now the car idles at about 500rpm or sometimes a little below that and shakes like its about to stall. never stalls though.
View 12 RepliesMy camry isn't starting and I thought it was the battery (5 yrs old) and got a new battery. After that, starting was difficult and it still wouldn't start. After a few aaa calls and realizing hitting the starter would get the car to start, I realized it might be the starter. Now, the car won't start even after having one person hit the starter while I turn the key.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2009 XLE Camry which has been running smoothly for years. I failed to replace my old battery on-time and my drained battery surprised me on Christmas morning. I tried to jump-start it, long story short but something went wrong during jump-start and I lost all the lights on my dash (I can't say I didn't cross the cables but I'm pretty sure I was fully awake that morning).
I bought a new battery and replaced the old one, lights on dash are back on, the engine starts but there is no acceleration at all, the car just moves forward on D and backwards on R but no acceleration on gas pedal. I did some research and figured I might have blown a fuse, I opened my fuse box under my hood and found out my 10 Amp ETCS fuse is blown. I changed the fuse and now acceleration is back, I can drive the car but I get this 'VSC System Check' error on my dash, the 'Check Engine' light is also on and the AC fan is not working.
Could it be another blown fuse? Is this something I can fix by myself?
I got my V8 back from a dead battery for the 2nd time. As usual, they have not found the problem. They said that there isn't any battery drain and the battery holds a charge. This time I took it back to my dealer I purchased from, not that it means anything.
I know there have been a lot of talk about different things that are causing the problem/ fixing the problem, but I have noticed that it may not be some of the ECU's, Navi/radio, etc. but could it be that when the vehicle is actually running the Alternator may not be charging the system significantly while driving when things are turned on, as in multiple things like AC/Heater, Fogs, heated seats, etc at the same time? Reason is that I have noticed with my V8, if you turn off all of these things the voltage gauge reads very close to 14 Volts and when you turn them on, it drops/cycles to about 13.75-13.5 volts. The dealer loaned me a V6 Touareg and with all these things on, the Voltage Gauge read 14 Volts solid most of the time or pretty close to. Meaning that the Alternator may be keeping up with all the things turned on (Current Draw).
With my V8, if you have these things on and you are running around town starting/ stopping without driving it for a period of time the Alternator may not be sufficiently charging the battery and then when you park it like overnight with the normal drain on the system in off state you may not be able to start it. Could there be something there or am I way off? Since they are always looking at the battery and if there is any drain on the system when it's off, is the alternator keeping up with the Touareg's requirements when it is running?
My 12V battery is dead- not sure what happened, I usually double press the lock button to turn the headlights off immediately. It seemed odd- the taillights were on, but not the headlights and all interior dome lights were on but dim. I certainly did not get the 'door open' warning beep when I left the car.
The car is completely dead - no power locks, interior lights etc. I tried to jump start it using the fuse box jumper plate, but was not successful. I have heavy duty jumper cables and it seemed like they only contacted the jump plate at one singular point, but that was the best I could do. It was touching, just only one point on the 'teeth' was physically on the front metal part. I waited a full 5 minutes with the donor car revving and tried to start it, but nothing at all. (And yes, I was + red to + red) I tried to adjust the cable on the plate a few times, but could not get any better of a grip. No dashboard light or anything ever came on- the car was just as dead.
What could the problem be? Should I try smaller cables for a better connection with the plate? How long should it generally take while revving the donor car? Or is this something more sinister?
I had several incidents where the car would not start & the battery was dead after the car sat a few days. After my shop checked & could not find a specific cause we ended in replacing the the battery & the clamps that held it. The car was fine for a month and then it went dead again after being left unused for 4 days. I wondered if my shop had the proper equipment to find problem. The vehicle has 175,000 miles on it.
View 3 RepliesSo my wife's 2007 Camry just got a new battery a week or two ago. The other day she goes into the garage to her car to find it dead, with no power to the locks (had to use key instead of FOB), no accessories, no dash lights and no dome light. When she tried to start the vehicle it gave her a single click, did not crank and did not start.
Initially I approached it from the perspective that maybe the alternator was not charging the battery, so I charged the battery with my portable charger. The battery charged fast and checked out okay.
I then used the key FOB to unlock the door. Adjusted the electric seat to better fit me. The dome light came on. I also checked to see the head lights came on. I turned the ignition to start and I got a single click. Tried it again and got no feedback. The dome light was no longer lit and no other accessories worked. All of the power seemingly drained following the attempt to start.
Now I am wondering if the starter is shorting out or if something more mysterious in the electrical system is malfunctioning in a way that I have never faced before...
The fans are operating as they should when my 2007 Camry SE V6 engine is running: if AC is off - fans are off too till the coolant temperature raising to the middle of the temp gauge, then fans are started to spin on slow occasionally; when AC is on fans are running all the time. But when I turn off the car fans are running on full speed till battery is dead. What can it be? ECU?
View 3 RepliesThe key was left in a 2009 Corolla which ran the battery down. The battery was replaced because of age. New battery worked fine for four days. Then the car wouldn't start. Completely dead. The battery was checked by AAA. Ranger said it was fine. No power to anything expects red flashing light on the security system. I even tried jumping it.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 Prius with 115,000 miles that I've been having some problems with recently. Over the past 2 months the car wouldn't start 3 times. Once I jump it it runs fine for 2-3 weeks. This morning it happened again. Whole looking back on it every time seems it happen when the car doesn't run very long before I shut it off again.
Took it by dealer today and to ask them and setup a appointment. They think I have a battery going dead and he quoted it as $220 to replace. When I went to leave dealer the flashers blinked 2-3 times before it finally started. Done same thing when I got home. I also noticed when I locked the door that the red key light stayed on, instead of normal blinking. Went back out about 10 minutes later and it was blinking as normal.
My 2013 has been problem free until this afternoon when I went to leave work - it simply wouldn't start, maybe a dead/low battery? It's a 2013 Prius II and just hit 40k this week and now due for service, so maybe I'll have them look into it?
Today was very hot around 100*, around noon I went to get something from passenger side and decided to crack the windows. Instead of going to the other side I reached across the console and pushed start which gets it into whatever mode it's called. Pushed the brake with a hand while pushed button again to turn on and operate window controls. Then I pushed start again to turn car off, which turned off display as normal. When I went to start it 5 hours later I got nothing.
No dash light up, dim dome light, door open light was on with door open so I knew there was some measure of power, I think I saw a check engine light near the door open light lit up at some point in my attempts too. I popped hood open to see where the battery was at, lol, it's not in the engine bay. In my frustration I finally started noticing a "buzz" sound of some part in the engine bay. Tried to figure out what it was - all I know is it's mounted on the firewall in front of driver, about knee height, behind/below the brake and power steering reservoir. I was kinda able to get my hand far enough to confirm it was buzzing/moving/active by touching a finger to it. Was able to get it to turn off with sever pushes of the start button - maybe the car was cycling the different "on" modes without turning on?
So I decided to try and jump the car. Friend who's borrowing a car luckily had jumpers - the weirdest looking jumpers I've ever seen. They were thinner gauge and super flexible, they were also two separate strands instead of being connected like normal jumpers. Anyways, I got nothing out of it. Was about to give up when someone id called showed up - used their jumpers thinking maybe the weird ones were bad. Immediately got a spark when I put the negative on the strut bolt, confirming I had juice.
Prius started immediately as "normal" (no idea how a hybrid starts after a jump...). Stereo was working, headlights, dome lights, windows - basically like nothing happened. I did notice the battery indication was a little lower than normal, but still had just below 1/2 bars. If it were low I'd imagine it would be lower. It never gets above 3/4 bars for me unless I'm coasting down a mountain for a while.
Dead/low 12v battery? What's the part that was buzzing?
I went to open the hatch this afternoon to see if my new painting would fit so I could take it to the frame shop, and the hatch would not open. Nor would the door-unlock button work. The fob wouldn't open it either. Then I realized no dash lights were on, and the car would not start. I thought there was supposed to be a way to open the hatch from the inside, but I crawled into the back and could not find it.
So the 12-v battery was dead.
I stored my car with a friend for a few months and of course he let it sit too long. He had to do a running start and now the dash lights are a penalty. I'm still out of town, but I am getting on a airplane right now to come home and be with my R again. He said the car was cutting of at stop lights, I'm sure he drove it cold.
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