Camry :: Batteries Replaced Several Times, Keeps Failing
Jan 2, 2013
My wife drives a 2005 Solara 4 cylinder 2AZ-FE. Over the past few years, it has been going through batteries about every year and a half. The batteries have all failed on the load test.
So far, I've removed the alternator and taken it in to get it bench tested, tested fine. I had the full charging system check with the machine, starter tested fine, alternator volts were fine, only problem was the CCA load test (for which the battery was replaced under warranty). I tested for parasitic battery drain several times, got some drain for awhile after car is powered off, but it eventually falls to zero. I checked for voltage drop across the wiring, visually inspected the wiring to the starter, alternator, etc. and made sure the ground connections were tight from the battery to the frame and engine. Everything looked good.
The only thing I can come up with is that the most recent battery boiled over a bit at one point in time because there was evidence of acid spillage. Also, once (and only once), my wife noticed her lights flickering while her car was idling for awhile during a cold morning. These two things lead me to think it must be the alternator (voltage regulator), but neither the bench test nor anytime I test it at home reveals any issue.
Maybe it's an intermittent problem from vibration, etc. I just hate to plunk down the cash for a new alternator if that isn't the issue.
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Replaced batteries in key fob but does not work.small red light comes on on fob so it is getting power. Maybe a reprogram problem or broken fob.
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Today I had to replace both batteries and now my ABS light is on. Before replacing the batteries I was installing a XM satellite system and my dash face plate was removed to make installation easier. After putting everything back together and connecting the new batteries the light is on. Tomorrow I will see if any codes come up using my Scangauge II otherwise I'll have to go to the parts store to have them pulled.
This is on an 04 Ex, Limited, 4x4, 6.0 PSD......
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I have a 2001 Prius and I replaced the modules with Gen II. It ran fine for awhile then the red triangle came back and the ICE would have a high revving sound and the brake warning light would come on. I can make this issue go away but pulling over and turning off the car and turning it on again. I pulled codes 3000 and 3006 and understand the problem may be uneven battery module levels. I have been driving it in an attempt to see the the modules will self level. An earlier dealer diagnosis also recommended a system main relay replacement which I did not do. It drives fine most of the time but maybe once a week the high revving issue comes back.
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I have a 2006 Ford F250 Superduty 4x4 6.0L Diesel with an alternator/battery problem. We have charged the batteries (had them tested at auto zone), and replaced the alternator and still cannot get the batteries to keep a charge. I'm not talking a slow drain, with the ignition switch on for less than a minute it drains about 4 amps and the truck dies. We also noticed a trouble code "TBC fault" and discovered that was to do with the trailer brakes. Disconnected the trailer brake system (have been noticing a "check trailer" warning occasionally recently). What could be causing such a massive drain on the batteries?
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So my toddler turned on my dome light on Friday and I didn't realize it all weekend. Monday morning the battery was D.E.D. Charged it all day then jumped it and it turns over but no start. Took it to Autozone for a deep charge and test and ended up with a new battery. Installed it and the engine turns over but still won't start. It ran fine on Friday. This car is my commuter and I don't want to spend the money to take it to the shop. Why it won't now start? Could the dead battery have killed something else while it sat in my driveway?
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In the last 2 months I've replaced my starter and 2 new batteries. I've tested the alternator and it's fine. What more is there? I'm guessing the FICM is going to crap. If I attach a scangauge 2 to it now would it tell me if that's the problem?
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Bought a 2010 Prius V new and have put 100K on it since Sept. 2009. About 9 months ago, the 12v battery died. I ordered a Yellow Top replacement from Amazon, charged and installed it. Six weeks later, the new battery's died. I charged it again and suspected the engine's wasn't charging the battery. I took it to Toyota for an electrical checkup and they say all is fine. Six weeks later, the battery's dead again.
This time, the charger says it has a dead cell and won't take a charge. Amazon replaces the battery for free. The cycle repeats three more times and again, dead cell. This time I go to Toyota and buy their expensive battery. The cycle continued four more times (although I haven't had a dead cell indication). I've been back to Toyota for follow-up twice and each time they say there's nothing wrong with the car. The last time they told me we weren't driving it enough to charge the battery but I know that's because we take several 150 miles trips every other week or so (plus daily commuting time).
I'm thinking there's something that's causing a slow drain and wondering if it could be the digital system that keeps your inside lights on after you exit the vehicle and then slowly dims them, only it's not going completely off due to age.
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My 2004 Passat is less than three years old and the front and back brakes & rotors have been replaced at least four times.
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I had to replace the chain tensionor 3 times. I would like to know if that is a common problem with the 2.2L engines. How the chain is oiled while in operation.
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The 2005 Prius I bought has had the AC compressor replaced 3 times in about 6 months with new toyota parts, the repair shop told the man I bought the car from not to bring it back there anymore they cant find the problem and toyota will not replace the compressor again for free...I guess 2 replacements is their limit.
The AC blows warm and Im not sure how to tell if the compressor is working or not, the inside fan works on all speeds, the fan by the radiator comes on but is VERY loud....of course I don't leave it on, only for testing to try to find the problem.
Where to look or why this car is burning up compressors.
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2003 Chevy Tracker 4 cylinder. Engine rebuilt and cannot get lifters to quiet down. Replaced 3 times. Bent valves on first install.
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This car was bought new 2008. All is well w/ everything. It's a joy to drive. However, we were told last week, that since the car is 8 years old (or soon to be), we should worry about the hybrid battery failing and should consider a new car. So, that's the question. Repair or replace?
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In less than 30,000 miles, I've replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate three times. Dealer adjuster clutch at 12,500. First replacement at 15,000 miles. I do not ride the clutch
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I have a o3 sc430 that's driving me crazy I have replaced the 02 sensor on my car three times and the cars vsc and check engine light comes back on after driving less then a mile. If I really step on the gas it'll come on faster. Where should I look for a vacuum leak? The mechanic says it could be electrical problems too...
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I have a Gen 6 2007 Camry SE V6 that I bought new in 10/2006.
Over the last few months, I've had an intermittent loss of coolant as evidenced by sometimes finding a small puddle of coolant on the floor in the garage.
I also often hear a noise under the hood for a few minutes upon first starting the engine cold. I've been just adding a little Official Toyota Coolant to the coolant reservoir.
I'm unable to see where the coolant is leaking from, but with the water pump problems others are having with this engine, and the noise I sometimes hear when starting the engine cold, I suspect it's the water pump.
I have 70,000+ miles on the car with the extended warranty which runs out in mid 10/2013. These symptoms led to a water pump failure?
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I drive a 2001 Toyota Camry with about 110,000 miles. About a year ago the check engine light came on and indicated a problem with the rear O2 sensor (the exact OBD code escapes me right now). Had the sensor replaced and a month later the same one failed. Replaced it again and 2 weeks later it failed again. I am now on the fourth rear O2 sensor and the check engine light is on again with the same code. So, clearly the problem isn't the actual sensor. I have heard it might be the ECU, but what else could be causing this type of problem?
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Our 2012 Prius with now 17,000 miles in 8 months has developed a clunking noise when turning the steering wheel, especially far to the right at low speeds.
The first time the dealer identified it as a failed intermediate shaft and replaced it under warranty. Shortly after we told them it was starting to make the noise again, but they claimed they couldn't replicate the sound and anything they heard was normal 'linkage' (whatever that is). Shortly thereafter the clunking progressed so we took it in for now the third time, and they confirmed the problem, spoke with Toyota who said we must have had a bad part, and replaced it again.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry with 200k miles on it. It has been giving me trouble starting for a while and I was advised to replace my battery during my last oil change. The problem is when I try to start it does not start for a while. It makes a noise and tiisssssss and stop. tissssss and stop. But then third or fourth try, it works. I installed a new battery and I am still having the same problem. One cold day, it never started no matter how many times I tried. My roommate who is an aerospace engineering PhD candidate came out of the apartment with a teapot full of how water and poured it onto the terminals. For record, terminals are clean. When he did that, it worked.
What is wrong with car?
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Two times today I had my shifter stick in park. I hopped in the car to go get my kid and everything was fine. I got to the house to pick him up, turned off the car and went to the door and then came back, hopped in the car and turned it on. Went to shift it out of park and it would start to move to the right a little but wouldn't budge out of park. I checked to make sure everything was OK and couldn't get it out of park. I turned the car off and turned it back on and it came right out of park, no problems at all.
We stopped by Sonic to get some food, leaving the car running, and when it was time to leave the car shifted out of park no problem. Made one more stop by the grocery store, leaving him in the car with the car running like at the previous stop, this time when I got back in the car it wouldn't shift out of park again. I stopped and restarted the car about three time, like what had worked before, and finally after about the third time I got it out of park.
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