Camry :: AC Compressor Not Working After Toyota Replaced Engine On 2008 Car
Apr 22, 2016
2 weeks ago my Camry 2008 failed the oil consumption test, so toyota fixed the engine. Few days after I got my car, I turned on the A/C but I was surprised that the compressor wont work. Totally dead.
I took the car to toyota and they check it out, they said they dont know whats wrong with compressor and I need to replace it for 1200$!!! IT WAS NOT A FREON PROBLEM, They claim that electricity is being delivered to the compressor but its just not working.
Is it possible that they messed up my compressor while fixing the engine? Also, I really don't want to fix it for that much, any thoughts where to fix it cheaper?
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After the A/C Compressor was replaced anc charged, the mechanic said that it was still not working. He checked for the ground " and was receiving power ?.. He was thinking I made now need to take it to a Honda dealership and maybe there is a code they need to enter. He does not know if the Compressor or Clutch may have overheated something to shutdown to protect the ECM
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The 2005 Prius I bought has had the AC compressor replaced 3 times in about 6 months with new toyota parts, the repair shop told the man I bought the car from not to bring it back there anymore they cant find the problem and toyota will not replace the compressor again for free...I guess 2 replacements is their limit.
The AC blows warm and Im not sure how to tell if the compressor is working or not, the inside fan works on all speeds, the fan by the radiator comes on but is VERY loud....of course I don't leave it on, only for testing to try to find the problem.
Where to look or why this car is burning up compressors.
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Ever since the air cond compressor Burned up I replaced it now the keyless entry quit working along with the radio really every thing quit till I put the key in the ignition and once the key is in the ignition the radio still doesn't work.
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We have a 2007 toyota camry 2.4l which had a engine problem so car needed a rebuilt engine. so we went to auto repair shop and they installed a rebuilt engine.But when we went to pickup the car the owner of the shop said our a/c is not working and he doesn't know why. he said its a/c compressor clutch is not working. the a/c was working fine before the engine installation. when I talk to other people (different mechanics) they all say that the repair shop who installed the engine caused the a/c problem. How can I prove that so I maybe can sue the guy in a small claims court? for a good gesture the owner of the shop offered us free labor on installation of a/c compressor but not on part which I can bring my own. I need detail argument. people say that in order to win in a small claims court we need many supporting explanation from experts. we just want the a/c to work again. car drives fine after new rebuilt engine.
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Whenever I use the a/c on the 88 camry it blows hot air unless you driving very fast when the vehicle is idling it seem to heat up again you can hear the compressor cycle on and off so that would mean the compressor needs replacing right? And also when I replace it do I need to get a new receiver dryer and filter for it?
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I have a 2002 Toyota sienna XLE, 95k miles. A few weeks ago I replaced the battery with a DieHard. Immediately after this, the right sliding door stopped working. A few days later the left side stopped working. Neither sliding door works in the manual mode, child proof feature is disabled. Fuses are good. Both doors click when any associated switch is activated but don't open. It was suggested by an owner of an older Sienna that the auto door computer needed resetting. Worth a try. His procedure involved disconnecting the negative side of the battery, waiting 3-5 minutes, reconnecting battery, use the key fob remote to open a door and then close it using the fob. Wait 10 seconds open and close same as before, doing this a total of 3 times. It didn't work, door clicks won't open. Tried again same results. This makes sense and my thinking goes that perhaps the sequence is different for a newer model.
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The a/c compressor is the nearest thing to the medium slow leak. It's up against the left upper side of the oil pan, near the timing belt cover. It appears red on the oil pan but more yellow color on the ground. There are no power steering hoses and the pwr steering pump is further back (and tho a bit wet, it's not leaking) I drove 6-8 mile this morning w no a/c to see if it would still leak...and it did. The power steering resevoir doesn't seem to be going down. Whata ya recon ? bad compressor ?
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Truck has the EATC system. Blower motor works, blowing 78.5 degrees at the vent. Compressor will not kick on at all. I checked all fuses and they are good. Put gauges on the low and high side, both sides register a constant 70psi, held for 30 minutes with the a/c on max. What the problem is?
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I have a 2004 4-cylinder Camry. Saturday I changed the passenger side motor mount which was broken and the front motor mount, which did not appear to be broken, but there was more play in it than in the replacement. I had to take the battery out and the air intake in order to have enough room to remove the front mount. To remove the front mount, I jacked up the engine with a 2 X 4 underneath the oil pan so as not to damage it. The passenger side wheel rose several inches off the ground. After everything was back together, the car ran rough at first but eventually got better. The only symptom that remains is a noise and slight vibration when the car is in drive. In neutral and all other gears there’s no noise or vibration. They noise seems to be slightly less when the car starts to roll, and after a few seconds in motion, I can’t hear it. What’s causing the noise? If there a third motor mount that I may need to replace?
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I think the ac compressor on my wife's 2008 Camry (2.4L) is stuck engaged. I've pulled the wire and it still didn't come loose. That being said, I've also read about a Mercedes that doesn't have an ac clutch, but rather the compressor vanes are varied to increase/decrease the compressor pressure. It's a shot in the dark, but perhaps it's the same with the Camry? It's been this way all summer (that I know of). The A/C seems to cycle on and off properly within the cabin. If it weren't for possible increased fuel consumption, extra drag on the motor, and possible premature component failure I wouldn't even be concerned with it. What to do with this?
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I just recently replaced my alternator and battery in my 08 Toyota yaris and it's still not holding a charge. My blinkers, radio, and heating and air won't come on , also my wheel is hard to turn and in order to shift gears I have to push down the white button near the shift stick. I'm so confused as to what else could be going wrong and my mechanic can't seem to figure things out my last resort is the dealership but I'm thinking that would be expensive
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The blue illuminated sills were already installed when I purchased the car...I just recently noticed that both sides don't light up anymore. I'm not sure when exactly they quit working, but i recently had my battery replaced. I checked every fuse in my car and can't find one that is blown. Is this a fuse problem? or did both sills just decide to crap out together? I checked both connections and they're solid.
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I have a 2008 Camry SE with about 118K miles
I have replaced the Water pump and the temp sensor recently.
The problem is when you turn the thermostat control to hot on the HVAC dial only warm air blows and it is only warm when the engine is revved or going down the road.
My question is: Is the door on these electronically controlled or vacuum controlled? it is like the blend door gets stuck and is not closing fully or something.
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2005 Toyota Prius, 85,000 miles on the car. Recently changed spark plugs with stock NGK plugs. I replaced the 12 volt battery today because the old 12 volt battery was reading 9.6 volts with engine shut off. 13.8 volts with car powered up. Long story short.
Easy swap. I have lots of tools and I am a service technician in a Bridgestone/Firestone tire factory. I can work on most anything with no problems.
The car now idles at 1640 RPM as read on my scangaugeII. I have not plugged in my Auto Ingenuity program yet but there are no trouble codes that the scangauge can read. My airbag light is on but it was on before I changed the battery. My left Side airbag is unplugged or partially unplugged and I need to search for the plug. Any fix or some way for the car to relearn the proper idle? I also noticed that my Drivers side window Auto up and Auto down feature stopped working. I can read individual sensors with Auto Ingenuity if you need numbers.
The 12 volt battery now reads 12.6 volts with the car powered down.
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I have a 2007 Camry LE with 86K miles. The car was burning oil like crazy and failed the oil consumption test so Toyota put a new motor in the car. I picked it up from the dealer 2 weeks ago and after driving it 40 miles, the transmission went out. The dealership had it towed that day and now after 2 weeks of them not returning my calls or providing any update, they tell me that it was coincidence that my transmission failed 1 hour after I picked it up from them. What are the chances that it had nothing to do with the work they've done?
When I brought it in it was driving fine - the only problem was the oil consumption, no slipping or knocking. Now you can drive it for 20 minutes just fine, but as soon as it warms up, the transmission quits.
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Own a 2002 Camry 4 cyl with 186K, like it soooo much ,once a day I get something like a missed shift around 20 mph .
I notice that over 65 mph, the RPM's are higher than my other Camry: 65 mph 2450 RPM instead of 2300. 70 RPM 2700 RPM instead of 2450. 75 MPH 2900 RPM instead of 2700.
At 80 MPH drifts between 3000 - 3200 RPM instead of 2800. When idling in park, I heard a whining noise coming from the Trans. I was told it recently had the engine replaced.
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I have this weird noise that comes from the engine compartment and you only hear it when the A/C compressor is running and the gears are engaged while braking. It sounds like a low whirr that goes on for a few seconds. I noticed that if I shift into neutral and engage the brakes while the A/C is running the sound does not come on, also if I have noticed that there is no noise if the A/C is OFF. Could that be the compressor? the idler pulley? the belt tensioner??
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my 2002 Chevy Tracker has run faithfully for the last 5-6 years. a few things have come up recently that have needed to be replaced, but nothing huge. after my AC compressor was replaced, my car started powering off in the middle of driving (not while revving engine standing still). mostly on cold starts, but now more frequently. mechanic swears it has nothing to do with AC compressor.
But he is checking drive train today. He has changed the tranny fluid, fuel filter, cleaned the gas tank, cleaned the throttle body (IAC motor), cleaned the mass airflow filter sensor, checked the battery voltage in case of an alternator problem. he has scanned the vehicle while driving and sitting still several times and no codes come up.
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I have 2007 PT Cruiser. The air condition blows hot air. I replaced the compressor, added freon. It was back to blowing hot air within days. I replaced the compressor with another brand new compressor and again after a few days, hot air. I took it to another person today and again, your compressor is leaking freon and it needs to be replaced. I refuse to buy another compressor, what else could be the problem. I live in Texas and need air condition in my cruiser.
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My AC compressor failed so I replaced it.
I put in 1 can of R134, and I don't see the compressor cycling.
How do I remove the connector to the accumulator so I can jump it and force the AC to run.
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