I have a 2010 Camry and my air blows but not as good as it use to. The air doesn't get cold in extremely hot temperatures and does not blow as hard. At night the Ac works fine and gets cold. Same with the heater, the heater works fine but once idle the heat blows cold. When i start back driving the heater gets hot again.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 Acura TSX that I bought used ~85,000 miles on it. It has been inspected 5 times and each mechanic says the car is basically new in perfect condition. However, it has an extremely difficult time starting after sitting in cold temperatures for more than about 12 hours. If I drive it every 8 hours or so it is fine. Everything has been checked repeatedly; alternator, wiring, battery connection etc. .. . The battery is only 3 months old.
View 12 RepliesDuring this week, most ppl at NA are experienced extremely cold weather, what I found is, the Prius can't do a great job to keep the front windshield clean under that kind of condition.
What I tried, front deforest bottom, or fan to front windshield and leg, both works fine for the middle area but not the top left side which is about 1/4 area of the windshield. It doesn't happen on my sienna. Usually I drive 5-10mins and the windshield are clean. What I guess is maybe the fan tunnel goes too straight to the windshield instead of blow to the rear area or maybe the outlet isn't wide enough to cover the side.
I've had my '96 Saab 900S for almost 6 years and it has 119K miles. Last weekend w/ the below freezing temperatures, she decided not to start on me again. I'll reiterate the word "again" as this non-starting problem happens once or twice every winter, when the temperatures are very cold, usually 20 degrees or colder. I've taken it to the mechanic who doesn't know why it continues to do this to me every winter during a really cold spell. As soon as the weather warms up 30 degrees or higher, the car starts up fine w/in a couple tries. During the non-starting fiscal the car will turn over, but then just dies, as if it is "starving for fuel".
On a few occasions I've tried the "cold start", or pushing the gas pedal while turning the engine on for 5-10 seconds, and then trying to start the car normally right after. This has worked on occasion in the past, but isn't a sure bet, this last weekend it didn't work. Recent work includes new battery, distributer cap and rotors, spark plugs, fuel line checked out "ok", and fluid changes are regularly maintained. Does it sound electrical or mechanical? No check engine light comes on so it makes it hard to diagnose. As this car was built in Sweden, it shouldn't be so temperamental in the below freezing weather every winter.
I have a 2002 hyundai accent gl, 1.6l dohc engine. The issue is in the cold weather, the car will turn over, and then buck and stall right out. After a while, she will finally catch and idle really rough, until the car warms up, and the temp gauge goes to halfway, and then it all goes away, and the car runs perfectly fine. Its only in the winter it does it, and when the car is really cold.
I just put a new battery in today, the alternator is newer, fuel pump is newer, new plugs and wires. I am leaning towards the coolant temp sensor gone faulty. I was wondering, where it is located to on the engine so I can change it out.
My 2002 Echo doesn't seem to be producing much heat. I have a scangauge installed, and it shows my temperatures around 75-80 C while our current temperatures here are around -20 C. I'm getting a bit of heat out of the vents but hardly enough to keep me warm.
I noticed that the coolant temperature will also drop a bit when I'm sitting idle listening to the radio before heading into our building at work. From about 85C to 70C, and the vents blow cold air.
My Radiator & Expansion tank are filled to proper level. I have just installed some cardboard inside the grille to try and block some of the cold air from entering. I haven't tested this out yet though.
My camry has been great up until the last week. The weather has gotten extremely cold here and when I start driving in the morning or from any cold starts the transmission doesn't shift out of second gear. After I drive it a mile or so and slow almost to a stop it will shift normally until I park it.
It has 125000 miles on it and I hope this isn't a serious problem because it is a great car and has been well taken care of. Looks brand new on the inside and out and I've never had any problems until now.
First of all, I love my 2007 Passat, and consider this a very minor issue, but I'm just curious because it's so weird. This happens to me once or twice every winter... I park the car outside most of the time because my wife insists on her SUV being in the garage.
Anyway, when the temperature outside drops to around 5-10 below zero for the first time of the season, or if it's even colder for a night, like, say, 25-30 below zero, I'll start the Passat and it will run, no problem, but I get a prompt on the instrument panel and these letters that say ECP on the display. When this happens, the car will only go about 10-15 mph. Once it warms up or if I put it in the garage out of the cold, it goes away and I can go as fast as I want.
I have a 1.8 02 Passat. On cold mornings (25 or below) the brakes are extremely hard. When it warms up outside they are fine. No one seems to know the problem.
View 16 RepliesUsing fuel additive with V10's in extremely cold weather? If so what are you using?
View 4 RepliesIn our recent -20 F cold spell in Chicago, I noticed the ride got very stiff, have others experienced this in very cold weather? My theory is that the oil in the shocks or dampers become extra viscous at these temps and the cold shocks causes the ride to becomes like that of a Honda Civic with a dropped suspension. (It's so amusing to watch those Civic "low riders" going over railroad crossings, but it's all image right????)
Anyway I would think the colder temps would lower the air pressure in the tires, softening the tires a bit, but perhaps the rubber hardens counteracting that benefit. I have Michelin Primacy BTW. Since temps went back up above about +10 F ride seem to be OK again.
For longer than I'd like to reveal, my Forester has shifted extremely hard. This happens only when the engine is cold and disappears entirely once it heats up. Also, the RPMs go high just before the shift. When it does shift, it feels as if the engine is going to self-destruct from the sound and rough feeling --as if the entire engine or at least some part of it were going to fall to the ground. After it shifts, it feels as if the car shoots forward like a rocket. The Subaru dealer changed the transmission fluid and reset the computer. The problem persists.
View 1 Replies2004 V8 - ~62k did the 60k service about 2 months ago. No other problems other than tpms not liking 50 degree swings in temperature. Haven't really had time to examine it, but wife left work this morning at -18F said she was getting a weird smell, no lights, a little smoke when she was stopped. I thought nothing of it.
Went to the garage to leave for work and it was like a dingy night club, fog/smoke everywhere and a strong smell of burning oil. Its supposed to warm up to 20 or so tomorrow, so I'm hoping whatever started leaking seals up.
Truck runs great if I get it started. Here are symptoms.
-Extremely hard to start when engine is cold
- It will start fairly quick if plugged in all night
- After running there is no issues with starting unless sits over night
- Batteries good and engine cranks fast
- Tests and parts I have replaced
- Replaced GPM (Glow Plug Module) I do not have the relay as most seem to have on their engines. I did replace this unit.
- Replaced Glow plugs all 8 this morning. Since they where cheap enough it did not hurt the wallet.
- Replaced crank position sensor. Tach moves when engine is cranking.
- Checked the HPOR and it has oil about 1/2" from top.
Now what is left to check besides doing a buzz test to rule out injectors? Also if truck runs fine and does not run rough could injectors still be bad?
I have a 94 ford Taurus all of a sudden my ac doesn't blow cold and my heat doesn't blow hot. Also every now and again I hear a sound like an alarm clock coming from passenger side??
View 3 RepliesLast spring i purchased an 08 600hl. This is my first winter with this car and I have come across an issue. when it is extremely cold like it has been for the past few days the heating system for the interior of the car does not seem to be working properly. when i warm up the car and put on the heat it blows cold air. It is only when I am driving that the heat comes on. While i am driving at a moderate speed the heat works fine. However, when i drive slow, such as driving around a parking lot and its only running on hybrid battery power, it starts to blow cold air again. When i put the car in park and its only running off the battery i only blows cold air even on the "HI" temperature. I have the rev the engine to get the heat to kick in and then it will stay on. This is and issue or a normal behavior for this car.
View 6 RepliesMy car is a 2003 Toyota Camry with 109,000 miles. At my most recent oil change the mechanic said the transmission fluid was extremely dark. He said if there had been no previous fluid change before 100,000 miles it would do more harm than good to change it now. I cannot find any record of this having been done. Is this advice correct? What does this mean for the function of the transmission?
View 7 RepliesI have noticed that my car occasionally seems to take off extremely slow from a dead stop? It almost seems as if the traction control is engaging, but I am not taking off fast, and it has also happened at low speeds (10-20 mph)???? It feels like I'm towing a damn boat behind me......
The TSB for the transmission was performed last year sometime.
My check engine light is on. I have a 2013 Camry LE with only 13,000 miles. I immediately checked my gas cap and found that it was extremely loose. My spouse put gas in my car a few days ago and apparently did not tighten it afterwards. I tightened the gas cap after discovering this but the check engine light did not go off. Does the light will go off eventually if the cause of was a loose gas cap? If the light isn't going to go off on its own, is there anything that I can do to reset it myself?
View 9 RepliesMy a/c is not blowing cold. I checked the system and I went to the a/c shop, they recharged the system. Compressor starts and then it becomes tricky. On other Passat I checked, all a/c pipes get cold right away and stay cold as long as the a/c works. On this vehicle, all pipes become cold for 1-2 seconds after starting a/c. Then pipes shown in red gradually get back to room temperature, while only blue section remains VERY cold.
Apparently, the limit between hot and cold is, on the left pipe, the valve that is used to recharge the system.
I recently noticed that my car A/C was not blowing cold AT ALL. I checked under the hood and noticed that I didn't even get a "click" when someone turned the A/C on. Like a dweeb, I went out and paid $28 bucks for a replacement A/C Cutoff Switch (the round thing that gets seated in the oil in the compressor). I didn't first check the power to the switch like I should have (doh!). There is no power going through the wires to the switch and just a few microvolts of change on the meter when I turn the A/C on and off. So, no power to the compressor = no A/C. The problem is, I can't figure out where the damn wires go and there is no obvious fuse or relay that controls the power to the compressor.
-How much power should be going to the compressor?
-Where the power source is for the two wires (I think one is dark blue and the other light blue)?
-What fuse/relay controls the power to that switch?
-What are the next steps in repairing this issue?
I checked every fuse in the fusebox in the side of the dash and they are all good.