Every thing was perfect till suddenly my A/C blows hot air on hot summer days when it over 104 , everything works motor clutch , fans so when its hot outside the motor & clutch turns on & off and wont cool it all started when I refilled my AC, I might of over charge a little. Not sure how to fix.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Camry 4cyl. I bought the car during the winter and did not really test out the A/C. Now we have 100 degree weather in NY and I tried to start it up but only hot air blows out. I have tried to do some research on here but from what I learned and tried everything was in tact. I checked the fuse (Inside the cabin) and freon everything was in order. I also tried looking for the non moving dry belt for the A/C but from what was visible all the belts were moving as they should. From what I saw and heard the condenser is non operational, is there a fuse that I might have missed?
View 5 RepliesIf I've been traveling on a hot day with A/C on, at some point after 3-4 hours, the air coming out of the REAR outlet starts to blow HOT.
Again, front A/C outlets still blowing nice cold air, but rear outlet blows really hot air. If you shut the A/C off for 1/2 hour, (or shut the car down for 20-30 minutes), when the A/C runs again, everything is fine again.
I think it must have something to do with icing (?) and the flaps on the ventilation system. Any diagram of the system?
Whenever I use the a/c on the 88 camry it blows hot air unless you driving very fast when the vehicle is idling it seem to heat up again you can hear the compressor cycle on and off so that would mean the compressor needs replacing right? And also when I replace it do I need to get a new receiver dryer and filter for it?
View 1 RepliesI've noticed today on my Camry that no matter what I set the air flow selector to on my heater, air only blows on the floor. Temperature and and fan speed seem to work fine. Going around to some local repair shops I was told the whole dash would need to be removed for a repair.
From what I have read changing the air flow selector I should hear some motor make the change from the floor to the face, but do not hear anything.
I turn it up on any fan speed, and set it on the floor setting, and nothing blows out the bottom vents. pretty much no air is getting to the bottom vents.
I do feel some air blowing out of the windshield defroster vents when I put it on the floor setting. seems like something is blocking it maybe?
I have an '03 Camry XLE with V6 engine, which I bought used later last year. The automatic climate control AC was standard with this vehicle. But when I turn on the AC, the light on the AC button blinks on and off, and it blows warm air. The first thing that I did was check the under-the-hood fuse box, which is where the manual shows a 10 amp fuse for the AC. PROBLEM...there is no 10 amp fuse where it should be, but to make matters worse, there is an empty slot with no contacts to accept a fuse as well. The fuse box cover shows that there should be a fuse at that location as well, but there is none.
A lack of info about relays in both the cars manual as well as the Chilton repair manual, accompanied by the fact that there is no fuse where the manual and fuse box cover says that there SHOULD be a fuse for the AC is what caused the confusion. The AC relay is called the "magnetic clutch relay"...why, I don't know. But I swapped that relay with a similar one that I know was working and the AC works fine. The new relay is about $14, and there is no fuse because there should be no fuse...the relay does the trick, I guess. Anyway, problem solved.
APPARENTLY, some things must get lost in the translation. The car's manual shows TWO fuses labeled HTR, or heater...yet describes them as being for the air conditioning system. Case closed?
I have a 2009 Camry LE (4 cylinder) that has an intermittent operating A/C unit. The blower will always work, however the cold A/C only operates intermittently, but the unit will continue to blow warm air half the time and cold air the other half of the time while in the cold mode.
I read that there is a relay fuse in the 5th Generation Camry, which sounds like my problem, however, I am not able to locate such a fuse in the 6th Gen Camry.
Could it be a relay fuse? Any other culprits? I would like to see if this is a problem that I can fix.
I just bought a 2006 camry a few days ago and am noticing a little problem with the heat. It warms up fine when idling but blows weak and cooler when driving....there is also a slight engine noise. Not sure if related, I am by far not a mechanic. I did try to research this issue but am coming up with more of the opposite (no or weak heat idling/great heat while driving). We are replacing thermostat tomorrow. As far as other maintenance goes it seems that the previous owner just did oil changes and nothing else in the last 3 years (35k since then). Trying to do all the little things now but would like to resolve this issue while I have it in the shop.
View 2 RepliesThe other day, I had the death triangle come up, it's done it 4 times since I have owned it, anyway got the triangle to go off, but now the AC works some of the time, and sometimes not, the lights are not blinking.
I put a new ac pump/compressor on about 3 yrs ago, been good till now, took it to a ac shop, evaced the stuff, put new in, same thing, he said the clutch/compressor was working good, cleaned out the filter, really dirty, was hoping that was the problem, worked good last nite, did probably 10 miles with it, but not really cold/cold air, I have not checked the belt yet, also, sometimes when I come up to a corner, it will like chug up to the stop, like maybe the compressor clutch is kicking in/out. This is the car we use a lot in the summer for the fact of leaving it idle while we are in the store, for our dogs, so it gets lots of use. Also, when the air buttons are on, motor (engine) will shut off the on, when its not blowing cold air.
We have a 97 Jeep Wrangler that I have serviced regularly since I purchased new. It only has 97,000 miles since my wife and children drove it locally. During winter, the Jeep drives fine. As the weather warms up and especially when using the air conditioning system, the engine heats up within 10 to 15 minutes of driving. Once, when my daughter was driving in warm Spring weather, the Jeep engine seized up on a highway. We had it towed and the dealership flushed the coolant and it drove OK for a few days. We have noticed that the coolant is burning up in Spring and Summer needing replenishment frequently. We also had the thermostat, water pump, belts, and hoses replaced. The overheating problem (needle moves to red zone) still persists in Spring and Summer. If we switch off the A/C, the vehicle drives OK for about a 1/2 hour but Atlanta summer can be brutal without A/C.
Except for this issue, the vehicle is well maintained and in fact every time I get the oil changed, the mechanics ask if I would sell the vehicle as it is in such great shape.
2003 jetta has a body clunking (serious) ONLY in the summer, when it has been in the sun...
View 5 RepliesI have a 1WARM-PRO Compustar remote starter on my 2006 CR-V. It sucks the charge out of my battery so I have to plug in my battery all winter when I'm at home to keep it charged. Every summer I go to the starter shop to have my remote starter turned off. Up until this year, the guy did something to turn it off that took a couple of minutes and he never charged me. He no longer works there. The new guy wants to charge me because he says he has to go under the dashboard. The other guy never went under the dashboard. How I could do this myself?
View 19 RepliesWas thinking what should tire pressure be on wheels during summer time, assuming you have stock wheels. More pressure = you go faster/ have better gas mileage, but have less handling ability. Less pressure = better handling but slower speed/ lower gas mileage.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1992 Toyota Corolla that will not start in the summers when the engine gets hot This is the 3rd summer it has happened as I attempt to run errands on the weekend and make several stops. After the 2nd or 3rd location, the car will not start. I must wait 30-45 min. for the car to cool down. I have called tow trucks before and by the time they get to me they are able to start the car. They always check the battery and tell me it is fine. I even bought a new battery just to make sure the first summer it happened. Obviously something is heating up, but what?
View 4 RepliesI have my ABS light going on at spring and summer time, almost every day, when the winter starts (I am in Minnesota), it goes on no more than twice in the entire winter. When the light is on the ABS DOES NOT WORK (I tried). This is going on since 5-6 years.
View 3 RepliesI have a Buick park avenue 1998, 3.8L V6 engine. the problem is: The ac vent on the driver's side blows cold air but on the passenger side blows EXTREMELY hot air. no matter how cold or hot you set the ac it blows at the same temperature on both sides. Florida heat is setting in and my passengers are melting. I am really hopping that is not something to bad and that I can fix it myself. Tip: this started happening after i had the alternator and the battery replaced.
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 Volvo S60 2.4T 148,000 miles starts up fine in the winter and in the morning's in the summer. However, if its 85 degrees or above in the summer and the car is warmed up and I'm running errands, stopping and restarting the engine. The car will crank and sputter before it starts or it will not start. These are the dealers notes from last year: RPM signal not good. Checked for relevant codes none found. Tested fuel pressure it is OK. Found when problem exists the tach bounces and the RPM sensor signal is erratic. Needless to say I declined the extra $300 to pay for more diagnostics. When the problem reoccurred this year I took it to my local Volvo tech and they replaced the RPM sensor at the cost of $180 for parts and labor.
View 4 RepliesThis Easter I put summer tires on my "new" (owned about 4 weeks) prius -07, and cleaned and greased brakes.
With winter tires (almost new Nokia hakka xx, stud less) I got 4.5 l/100km (52mpg) easy and 4.2 (56mpg) at best, now I get 5.5 (42mpg) and 5.3 if I struggle, if I relax and put cruise control on I get 5.8 (40mpg). I travel 100km to work every day.
Summer tires is Michelin primacy (about 2 seasons?) pumped to 3.0/2.8 bar (over inflated).
Brakes don't seem hot after drive and they was really clean and easy to move after my service so my guess is that they work fine...
Mileage went down over the weekend so I see a clear link.
It was more fun trying to hypermile at 56mpg aiming for 60 then it is at 42 aiming for 45...
12v battery charged, just in case. Still same temperature out 1-8 C. Oil and all filters changed first week (will change trans axle oil in summer). Travel to work got 4% shorter so tire size must be a small reason to the +20% problem.
I am the original owner of a 2006 Prius with 265k miles. I use Mobil 5-30 synthetic oil and I drive a steep hill every day and the engine knocks in the summer afternoons when I use cheap 87 Octane gasoline from Safeway or Costco. If I use better 87 octane gasoline (Chevron, Shell) generally there is less knocking. Also during the winter months no knocking even with cheap gasoline.
During summer I can sometimes make the knocking go away by accelerating or decelerating. The knocking is intermittent and generally occurs only during the steepest parts of the commute. The engine might knock for 30 seconds to 60 seconds before its goes away as I try to change the engine RPM.
Unfortunately I am burning some oil at a rate of approximately half a quart every 5k miles. Generally I watch the oil level, but there have been cases where the oil level has fallen below the lowest mark on the dip stick so I suspect I have some carbon build up.
I've read posts where others have used additives like gumout regane and I've read posts that say not to use additives.
With average temperatures going over 10 C, it's time to switch tires, so I did. I have a set of 20" ATP Inox wheels with Nokian NRVi 275/45 tires, that are only used for the summer (in the winter the stock 17" canyons are used), the wheels and tires are not new, they've been on the T last summer as well without any problems.
But now, I hear a ticking noise in all 4 wheels or tires when driving. The sound doesn't stop at higher speeds (only more difficult to hear due to wind noise), and it occurs on the same spot in every wheel rotation. It's like there's a big nail in all 4 tires, but: there isn't one, nor anything else, and there's plenty of thread left (> 1 cm).
The noise stops sometimes when braking or turning. I contacted and visited the dealer, and he couldn't find anything but assured me that it couldn't be that big a problem. What I checked:
- air pressure (3 Kg/cm rear, 2.6 Kg/cm front)
- all bolts properly tightened
- no nails, stones, whatsoever in the tires
- no loose cables, brake pads, or things like that
- thread wear is ok
- I have no TPMS so no lost sensors inside the wheels
If the problem persists, the dealer will take the tires off of the wheels and check inside, but according to me it's very unlikely that there's something inside all 4 tires.