I have a 98 camry 4 cyl and am continually getting egr code po401. I've cleaned out and tested egr, replaced modulator and the vac switching valve. Replaced several hoses also. Car runs fine, in fact this code came the day after traveling 700 miles. It comes back on fairly quickly after properly resetting computer and 1 or 2 drives.
View 3 Repliesis my Toyota camry going to stall cause it has po401 code and I think it has an muffler or exaust leak can the cause po401 code.
View 3 Replies1996 Toyota camry le 4 cylinders has code po401 does it damage engine what will it do. Insufficient exhaust flow...
View 3 RepliesOB2 Code PO401 came up. What does that code stand for.
View 2 RepliesHave 2005 Camry LE. Had body work done yesterday and they must have disconnected battery and now alarm does not work. Have 3-button (lock, unlock and panic) FCC ID #C043VT14T remote. Alarm system is by Micorp. I tried using program instructions for the FCC ID #C043VT14T remote for another model Toyota but did not work. Keyless entry on remote works but anti theft alarm does not work. Dash button continually flicks red. How to reset (program) remote for 2005 Camry?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 7.3 that recently had a throttle position sensor issue I replaced the sensor 4 days ago and my truck ran like new. Until last night I shut my truck off and went to start it up a few seconds later and it would crank continually but wouldn't turn over so I went for the obvious and replaced the cam sensor but that didn't change anything. My scanner is throwing a waste gate fail code.
View 1 RepliesI am getting two codes, p0171 and p0401. Both point to something with the fuel are mixture I believe. My problem is that I can not figure out what the problem is. As far as I can tell there is not a vacuum leak. My MAF sensor looks clean and close to brand new. The codes come on and the car seems to want to jump. It does not stall, just starts to bounce a little until I let off the gas. And it does not do it until the car is warmed up. 2001 Santa Fe .....
View 4 RepliesIve got a question for all you code readers out there. My dreaded check engine light has been on for about a month. I bought a code reader recently and checked it out. Two codes come up; PO401 and PO446. What these mean. My book says "Exhaust Gas Recirc. Flow Insufficient Detected" and " Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction". Which sensors, location on vehicle, etc..... this is a 97 5.4L Expedition.
View 9 Replies1999 ranger 3.0. Check engine light popped up showing P1000 and P0401 codes. I think the p1000 is a system readiness test. Not sure why that came up and the 401 is exhaust gas problem. I put on a new autozone DPFE a few months ago..
View 5 RepliesA co-worker has a 1993 Nissan 240SX. It used to overheat continually. When he stopped at the side of the road the radiator was cool. He changed the thermostat and the problem continued. He bled the coolant system to ensure all air was out of the lines. Finally he took a 1/16th in drill bit, drilled several holes in the thermostat. When that didn't work he drilled even more holes.
Question 1: There must be a better way than this gum and duct tape solution. What is it?
Question 2: Wouldn't he be better off just to take out the thermostat?
How to reset my check engine light as well as how I can figure out what is causing the light to continue to come on. Can't keep going to the dealer to spend $ to have it turned off.
View 1 RepliesLooking for a cure for a heat shield that continually loosens, and causes a annoying rattle? I have been up under the car and re-tightened the suspected shield a couple times, the screw that holds the clip is not damaged, and the clip itself is not damaged... and on top of it all, I can never quite get that clip on tight enough to stop the rattle all together. is there a tool to get it tighter? i use micro needle nose pliers that fit and tighten it that way.
View 24 RepliesMy Dad drives a 2005 Chevy C1500, and he complains that the SRS light continually stays on. He wants to know how to turn it off without taking it to the dealership.
View 3 Repliesi was driving my car back home after a short drive to the store and my car stalled and i started it back up and it continued to stall (no check engine light was coming on or oil light if there is one). I finally got it back home and it will not start now, I asked a friend to come look at it and he said it could be the starter, as he was checking on that he said there was a hole in my oil pan, which of course i did not see.
I replaced the starter just in case and it did not start and he also replaced the oil pan and put oil in as it was completely dry(4 quarts). it still makes the same noise when i try to start it with a jump and a new battery, when i turn the key all of the dash lights go dead, so i am unsure what to do next if my engine is seized or maybe something else i can hopefully check or replace for cheaper...
I have a VW Passat 2003. I had my front and rear brake pads replaced (and rotors sanded) 4 months ago at Merchant's. They used ceramic brakes b/c they were the recommended manufacturer part. Because the brakes are ceramic, I expected a little squeaking, and at first there was; just a short squeak that sounded like a flute, and it only happened when I turned my wheel to the right. Now the brakes squeak, scream and chirp continually. They squeak sometimes when I stop, like some brakes do when they're going bad.
While I'm driving (at 35-50mph), they scream like a kettle: a very high-pitched continuous noise. When I push the brakes or turn the wheel a certain way, the noise stops. The same happens with the chirping noise. I don't know when the noises started b/c I usually only hear it when my windows are down. I took my car back to Merchant's to have them check and they didn't find anything wrong; they just lubricated the brake pads, but that didn't work. Could there be something wrong with my brakes or is this normal for ceramic brakes?
The ignition locks up continually. the manual says to turn the steering wheel which is impossible! It has a floor transmission so I try pushing the button in with no success. After 2 or 3 minutes of trying to turn the key(s), cussing and building panic it finally starts. He tried spraying WD40 in it and that didn't work at all. I'm about to trade this thing off for this simple problem!
View 12 RepliesNeed to identify this part? I believe this part is causing my check engine light to continually come on, due to worn out connectors (I.e. Vacuum leak)!
View 8 RepliesCompressor continually clicks off and on..... No cold air.... Checked freon seems to be full.... Big line never gets cold?
View 10 RepliesOn a 2001 tacoma, 6 cyl ext cab. I had an issue where multiple fuses would blow continually. That issue stopped, went away on its own. But now the power windows won't work and that fuse is fine, changed it just to be sure anyways. Dealer tells me it needs an ecu and harness (since you can't buy JUST the ecu).
View 4 RepliesMy car is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 6 cylinder all wheel drive. Had an issue with the transmission continually dropping down a gear when keeping the car at about 35mph... no codes were showing nor any lights on the dash were on indicating a problem... dealer said the catalytic converter was the problem. changed it and it did not fix the problem...brought the car back to them and they said it now is showing a code and the service engine light is now on... the code showed that the Crank Sensor and the Throttle Position Sensor were bad... I asked why they had to change the cat and they explained
That they had to change the catalytic converter to get the correct "back pressure" so the computer would then recognize the actual problem and would direct them to the real issue... They assured me the cat was bad...in other words they had to change the cat out or they would not have found the problem... I think i got scammed and they really didn't know what they were doing and it cost me a bunch of money... is there any connection with the cat and those two sensors that could cause this scenario?
I have a 09 sonata NF. The gas pump continually clicks off while filling the tank. I saw this issue discussed here before but I cannot find it. Has to do with a vapor canister and valve?
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