Camry :: 94 V6 - Idling Rough Now Won't Start
Oct 2, 2011
My car is a 94 camry, but has a 96 1MZ-FE engine from a avalon. Bought used and has been a great car for ~3 years. Just hear last couple weeks, it would start running and idling rough for a few minutes at a time. The last time I drove it home, it completly stopped on me on the side of the road. It finially started to make it home and now have in the garage. Now it will crank, but won't start. After you crank it, shut iginition switch off, then back to start position, you get a pop out the exaust pipe. From these forums and my haynes manual, I've checked the camshaft sensor, it appears ok (1.1k ohms), crankshaft sensor (2.0 k ohms), 3 of my coil packs, front side (1.4 ohms) manual says .5 to .85 ohms, so i'm not sure about this, the mass air flow meter (2.9k ohms), and it has the 5 volts to it, coolant temp sensor (2.3k ohms), replaced this last year. I haven't checked fuel pressure, since I have to go rent a tester.
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My Dad Purchased an 06 Camry, 2AZ-Fe engine w/140,000 miles on it from a family member. He was told that the engine had some issues but wasn't specific about the problem. He recently passed and left the car to me. I used to be a mechanic but i have little knowledge on Toyota. The car cranks/starts easy, but idles very rough. I scanned it and the codes I retrieved were p0300,0301,0302,0304. I haven't done a compression test or a leak down yet, but plan to tomorrow. I also will check resistance on the coils and check the condition of the plugs. I looked through some old posts on here, and seen this engine has head bolt issues. pcv issues. and oil consumption issues. Should i pursue trying to fix this or leave this project alone.
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Our '02 Toyota Camry with 92,000 miles has been idling rough for awhile. I tried cleaning the throttle body which actually seemed like it made it worse for awhile. I do need to replace the valve cover gasket and I don't think the spark plugs have ever been replaced. Is that a good place to start?
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I have a 2001 4 cyl Camry with about 147K. I bought the car from the original owner a few weeks ago. The check engine light came on. The car idles very rough at low idle (e.g., while stopped with transmission in Drive). My mechanic changed out the EGR and another air flow valve that was apparently stuck open too much of the time, and also the engine idle air control valve. The check engine light is now off but I don't think it was related to the rough idle because that started before the check engine light. I have seen other forums that discuss the rough idle related to fuel dampener and also weak/broken motor mounts and haven't checked those out yet.
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I haven't started my passat for the winter and I finally did today. It was ruff start/idling and I pretty sure it was misfiring on one of the cylinders. I turned off the car and start it again...same thing, ruff idling like 3 cylinders were running. I waited five 5 mins and started it again, then it was a normal start on all cylinders. But the engine light came on, even though it started properly. I know I have to clear the code to get rid of the engine light. But I want to avoid any future misfiring. So I'm thinking new spark plug/coil overs.
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I've only had my '13 STX with the 5.0 for a little over a month now, but it seems like the past few days, something's caught my attention. As soon as I start my truck when cold, the idling engine seems to have more vibration than normal, which is to say I can notice a distinct vibration in the cab. It only does this for about 10-15 seconds, and then the vibration goes away when it idles down. The truck still runs and drives fine, and I only notice this when I start the truck without it already being warmed up. I don't recall noticing this the first few weeks I owned the truck, but I also wonder if I'm over-analyzing matters as well.
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I changed timing belt and water pump DIY back in Oct 2015. Ever since then, I get rough idling (car kind of vibrate and engine kind of struggling) after warm start (no problem with cold starts, it did stall once after the warm start).
Two days ago, I got a P0000 code, I thought it was due to low oil (happened before, I topped off oil 2500 miles ago), so I changed oil and filter. No problem yesterday, but today on my way to work. I got the p0000 code again.
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I have a 6.0L Powerstroke with about 74k miles. I've owned it about a year. this weekend while driving on the highway at about 55mph i slowed to make a turn. As it came to idle i noticed it was idling real rough. As I accelerated it barely got across the highway. I went to where i was going and let it idle but gave it gas and raised the rpm's to about 1k.
I was concerned it was going to die. As I left it seemed to be better but as i drove it would get real rough and then go away. I accelerated a couple of times engaging the boost and it seemed to be better. I made it home and parked it, but i let it idle before i turned it off.
Now it will not start. it just cranks. everything is pretty much stock. i replaced the fuel filters back in december and also did the blue spring upgrade. I have a OBDII but i didn't have it with me so i wasn't monitoring at the this time. What should be my next step?
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1999 Ford F-150 V8 5.4L... The other day I was attempting to fix my 4wd. I discovered that the vacuum tube by the 4wd solenoid had become disconnected. I reconnected it and in an effort to see if my fix was successful, I drove my truck up one of the canyons nearby. I got to an area full of loose rock and popped my truck into 4wd. As soon as I began to drive, the truck started idling very rough and died. I attempted to restart it for the next few minutes unsuccessfully. I got it started once and it continued to idle rough for a few seconds and died. I have not been able to start it since. It turns over but will not crank. It is not throwing any error codes. What I have checked so far:
Spark plugs are working.
When turning the ignition into the ON position, I am able to hear the fuel pump working.
I have not seen any cracks in the vacuum hose.
All the fuses are still okay.
What the culprit may be?
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I have a 2007 F150 XLT, Supercab 6.5' bed, 4x4 5.4 Automatic with 67000 miles on it. Its not a Flex Fuel
Over the past couple of weeks it would get go through random rough idling spell or stall going down the road. If it was sitting it would idle clear down to 200 RPM's and just sound like an old 'chitty-chitty-bang-bang' car, not a modern marvel of Ford engineering!
I noticed it particularly does it this on an incline. Initially I fixed it by just coasting to where it was flat. I normally keep it above half a tank so i dont think its a fuel pump not getting fed. So I replaced the fuel filter yesterday hoping it was full or clogged, no changed.
This morning it would start at all, I removed the negative terminal on the battery, rolled to the level, tried it 30 times. Nothing. I checked all of my connectors under the hood and the 2 below the cab under the plastic cover. Everything was connected. I disconnected the fuel pressure sensor and it fired right up and runs smoother than since I've owned it.
It hasn't had any CEL lights, until I disconnected that sensor. Should I drop the tank and clean it? Is there any special gasket kits or connectors I should be aware of? Should I just replace that sensor? Is it connected with a chain of sensors I should check first?
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This problem has been getting worse over the last 2 years. When the car starts it idles fine at about 1000 RPM. As soon as it warms up, it starts to idle rough, between 500 and 750 RPM. It almost quits running. As soon as you give the car some gas it runs just fine. About 3 weeks ago I got a "Engine Lean" check engine light error. I reset the system and have not gotten the error again. Since then I have: changed the MAF cleaned the EGR (made sure it closes completely and ohm out the coils in the actuator) changed the O2 meter on the exhaust manifold cleaned out the throttle body Ohmed out the air idle controller. What I should check next. I was planning to check the fuel pressure in case it is a fuel system problem. It is a 1999 ....
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I've made posts about a rough idle before now I noticed something new about it. I noticed when I approach a red light the vibrations don't start immediately. They start as soon as the RPMS would drop a little. They stay above 500 but it seems like it's below 750. As if the engine is slightly starved from power? Now i'm wondering if it could be related to another problem I have.
Whenever I start the car, the battery light flickers until the car is started all the way. This is on a 2007 Camry 4 cylinder. So far everything iv'e done is: New NGK Spark Plugs, NEW OEM mounts (all 4) Seafoamed the engine, Seafoamed the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, New air filter, and cleaned the air filter box, replaced the PCV Vlave, new belt, new alternator (duralast), and a new battery (from autozone).
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder. The problem we are having is the car has a slight rough idle only at cold start. After she warms up she is smooth as glass. What would cause this?
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I have a 2003 Camry 4cylinder. On first start of the day the engine shakes a little untill it warms up and is driven for about 2 blocks. After that it is smooth. I cleaned what I could of the throttle body on the car, changed spark plugs and PCV. All that worked but cold start shake still there.
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I have a 2002 Camry SE (V6) with approx. 180K miles. The Engine mounts were shot so I decided to change them. I am a reasonably qualified mechanic (FAA Aircraft Mechanic) and perform most my work on my cars so didn't think this would be a big deal.
My procedure was to jack up front & put frame on jack stands then removed both wheels. Then with hydraulic jack and blocks under oil pan I started by removing all or the three lower engine mount hold down nuts (3 on bottom, 1 on top of each. NOTE: I changed the dogbone first which took 5 minutes.
I then jacked up engine about two inches or so and pulled out each old mount, then lowered engine back down making sure everything lined up as best I could. Then finished by tightening all of the nuts. Done. ....or so I thought.
When I went to start, the engine cranked but with a an unusual vibration and generally rough idle, more noisey than usual. When I drive it shift fine and everything works, just unusual vibration and noisey inside car.
I also used my BOSCH code checker and got ZERO CODES.
What is even more unusual is the engine when you are outside the car listening sounds fine. Just sitting inside do I sense the unusual vibration and noisy idle.
I checked for loose vacuum hoses, anything obviously pulled loose, etc and found nothing.
Again the car started and idled fine before the engine mount change now starts kind of rough and is noisy [inside car] but quiet outside.
nothing really changed except the moving of the engine block up and down to get the old mounts out.
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On a very cold start, overnight, temps are zero or below the car starts okay but sounds rough for a few seconds and lets out a bad smell. Almost like it stumbles at first then is rough then goes normal cold running. Car is at 40k miles.
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I have APR state I+ and a VWR intake for the last 14 months. My car normally idles at 800 RPM.
In the last few weeks I've noticed it idling a little rough at ~750 RPM.
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My 2007 Prius has 127K miles on it and is idling rough, especially noticeable when the car isn't moving.
I've changed the 12V batteries, spark plugs and used cleaner on the throttle body. Car acceleration has improved but fuel economy and the rough idling remain unchanged.
I have an ELM327 and the Torque Pro app and the car is throwing off no codes.
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Just noticed the other day the Passat was idling significantly rougher than usual, most of the time it's smooth as butter but not so much lately. It's not rough like a bad misfire, just not very smooth anymore. This could be indicative of the dreaded oil-pump bolt failure rearing it's ugly head (finally)?
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Car is idling rough. Mechanic said it might be an oil restriction not getting to a sensor and advancing the timing.
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i got a problem with my 96' 2.4 auto cavalier. It idles really rough at idle. I've replaced alternator, battery, idle air control valve, intake, plugs, and the fuel pump in the last year and a half. I've noticed that the rpms will fluctuate between about 625-675 when it's idling rough. About once every 11 seconds the car will rev up for a moment and will idle smooth but then it idle rough again. Every one in a while it will throw trouble code p0200 random multiple cylinder misfire.
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