I drive a 94 camry with 4 cylinder motor. I just had a head job done on the car. The head had three valves messed up on it and a blowen head gasket. Got that done. Now you can start the car get it warm, shut the car off and wont start back. Turns over but no noise when you turn the key. What it is causing this? Is there something i missed when i did the head on it?
View 11 RepliesMy 2007 has been having this issue for the last couple of years and has gotten pretty consistent lately. When it's below about 60 and the engine has cooled to ambient temps, it will crank all day and not start. Once ambient temps are about 60, it will fire up and runs like a champ. You'd never know it had an issue. It's got a #4 glow plug fault. Other than that, everything is reading within parameters. FICM, GPCM, or what?
View 5 Replies Getting the Banana ready for it's smog test appt at the shop last night (it WAS today) Check engine light had popped on and it had been starting to sputter and surge at the idle occasionally for the last few days so I took a look at the MAF and saw dirty wires. Aha I can fix that, a couple squirts of MAF cleaner, plug it back in and voila! No more light, the Banana ran down the road around the block, over the hill and through the dale like a champ. I shut her down and call it a night.
This morning, hop in and fire the Banana up like usual and all I get is a nice peppy crank over. The Banana has had a bunch (pun intended) of new parts throw at her recently... new battery, starter solenoid, plugs and fuel pump relay and fuel filter. All within the last couple of months.
Out of complete disbelief, I ground on the ignition for a little while and she finally kicked over and sputtered to life. I let her idle a couple of minutes and things seemed fine so off we go. I make it about a block before the Banana starts hiccuping and bucking like something possessed and dies.... kaput.
The Banana has a 3.0, manual transmission and at least half a tank of fuel. Long story short and a tow truck ride home again, half a day trying unsuccessfully to pull a code, any code.... nothing. She will half-heartedly cough and spastically run with ether shots and near as I can tell I'm not getting fuel to the fuel rail relief port. I'm really hoping there is some way to diagnose a faulty fuel pump without having to drop the tank and fish the damn thing out.
I'm not hearing it run when the ignition is turned on but then again I don't think I've ever heard it run. Any other things to try before I replace the pump itself???
2000 F150 4.6L Romeo 2WD. Engine cranks great. Fuel pump working. Changed fuel filter. Will not start. No codes. Fixed A/C day before yesterday, only had air coming out defroster, disintegrated vacuum hose at firewall. Ran errands yesterday, no problems whatsoever. Get in truck today to go to work and no start at all, engine turns over fine. What next?
View 7 RepliesI have a 09 camry 2.4. I have a problem with it starting about 5 times a year. It will start and shut back off and just keep doing this or just crank over. Then if we let it sit for about 15 minutes it will start and be fine for months. It's been doing this about 2 years. It has about 104,000 miles on it and there has never been any lights come on like the check engine light.
View 2 Replies1997 Jimmy, 4.3 ... This has gone on for two years and over two grand. I am slowly going insane. When it starts, it runs GREAT...but if it is moist outside, it is not going to happen...can crank it til the battery dies. I have replaced: spark plugs, fuel pump, MAF Sensor, distributor cap and rotor, stupid poppet fuel injection, battery x 2, and the ignition switch. It used to pull a random misfire code, but now has NO codes. I have been through five garages and four really good at home mechanics. When it is not starting, it has spark at the plugs and good fuel pressure. Last mechanic wanted to do a second fuel pump with the new injection system...I swear I think it is because I am a girl.
View 15 RepliesI have a '99 F250, 7.3, CCSB with just over 127K on the clock. I went out of town for 10 days and was ready to get out of the grocery getter and into my truck. I hop in and it cranks great but would not start. I pop the hood and start with the easy stuff. Made sure all plugs/connections were good, check. Relays and fuses are still in good order (under hood and dash), check. Fuel pump was replaced less than a month ago (works great) with fuel in fuel bowl (new filter), check. Try to start a few more times with no luck, so I tinkered around for few more minutes and it starts right up and drives perfect.
Drive around, truck is on and off as usual throughout the day and go back to work next day around 10:30. Truck starts as normal. Get to work and have to run out but truck doesn't start again. After key is in on position for 15-20 minutes while checking fuses and such it starts up and runs perfect. I drive around for 20 minutes and return. I got off about 5 hours later and it doesn't start. Leave key in on position while I'm explaining issues to a buddy again 15-20 while key is on it starts right up. I drive home and park and I haven't been able to start it since.
From reading forums and watching you tube I'm leaning towards IPV or CPS but no one has described the problem as I've had. I do not have monitors, tuner, or anything aftermarket but I'm a mechanic and have a descent set of tools at home.
2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 - 250k miles had the original plugs and wires ....
First things first - I changed them one at a time and confirmed the truck started and ran after each one was changed. I changed all the plugs on the drivers side with no issue. 4,5,6 ... Then I changed plug 3, rear passenger side plug closet to the firewall.
Truck will not start, turns over great, but will not start. I have confirmed I am getting spark. No clue what could have changed, I just pulled out the old plug and wire put in a new one and it wouldn't start.
My father-in-law said if you have spark check fuel. I recall seeing a post about someone breaking a cable for the coil pack but i have checked and i see nothing broken.
My 04 f150 has been sitting upwards in my drive way for a month now won't start cranks great with full power..
View 1 RepliesMy 99 Camry solara is hissing when I start the engine and doesn't go away until the car is shut off ---- then it hisses a few seconds more, then quits.The heating / cooling isn't on and I just had the oil changed yesterday at 227,000+ miles. What this could be?
View 4 RepliesI've got a 2002 Ford Sports Trac that won't start ! It will crank till battery dies but is not getting fuel. I have had it towed 4 times in the past year. of the 4 times,this last time it wont start. Every time that I have had it towed back to my house and dropped in the driveway it has started up with no problems. It will run for a few months or more.This last time it would not.
Could this be an electrical problem.Maybe loose ground somewhere or something else. Would like to rule out some things before investing in a fuel filter or fuel pump. Would hate to buy new FuelPump and that not be the problem. Can't find free wiring diaghrams for this issue.
This has happened 4 times now over 2 weeks. The engine will turn over but will not start till I press the gas pedal. I have to keep the engine running for a few seconds by hold the gas pedal steady.After it's running you can cut the engine off and it will start right back up.
View 9 RepliesI normally just troll the existing threads and find what I need, but I am stumped. Just had the HPOP replaced and ran fine for 2 months. Then I started getting a hot no start. So it sat for a couple of days. Then I went to pull it in the shop, it started, I backed up 10 ft and it shut off. I started it back up and it died. I am going to hook it up and figure out my AE software tonight. So question, can an IPR valve get clogged after the fact? Or could it be a bad HPOP?
View 12 RepliesLooking to upgrade my struts to a stiffer ride, without lowering it. I've heard that coilovers aren't that great as far as ride quality....
View 5 RepliesI have a 1996 Toyota Camry with 200k miles on it. It has been giving me trouble starting for a while and I was advised to replace my battery during my last oil change. The problem is when I try to start it does not start for a while. It makes a noise and tiisssssss and stop. tissssss and stop. But then third or fourth try, it works. I installed a new battery and I am still having the same problem. One cold day, it never started no matter how many times I tried. My roommate who is an aerospace engineering PhD candidate came out of the apartment with a teapot full of how water and poured it onto the terminals. For record, terminals are clean. When he did that, it worked.
What is wrong with car?
I have 91 camry that when you go to start it, it turns over then makes a chugging/choking sound and wont start. battery is good bc the radio/lights/etc come on, and i can put everything into gear. Its about 35 degrees here so im hoping that it may just be needing some antifreeze which is on the way.
View 2 RepliesThe fans are operating as they should when my 2007 Camry SE V6 engine is running: if AC is off - fans are off too till the coolant temperature raising to the middle of the temp gauge, then fans are started to spin on slow occasionally; when AC is on fans are running all the time. But when I turn off the car fans are running on full speed till battery is dead. What can it be? ECU?
View 3 RepliesCar is a 97 Pontiac Grand Prix. I was driving the other day and my car just shut off when turning a corner. I thought it might have been out of gas so I put gas in it and it started for a min but when I put it in drive it died and hasn't started again since. I took the alternator out and had it checked an it was good and the fuel pump still made a weeeen sound when turned over so I don't think neither off them are it. I think it could be the crank shaft thing but I don't know I'm not a mechanic or I wouldn't.
View 3 Replies2000 buick 3.8. Replaced fuel pump and pump relay. did not cure problem, which is will not start after brief shut down. usually happens on hot days but sometimes while driving it just quits. after a short period (1 minute) it will usually start again until next time. last suggestion was "when it doesn't start, shoot some ether in intake".
It started then died when ether was used up but that eliminated ign problem? I have noticed that when it won't start if I open gas cap and try again--it usually starts. time period or what? fuel filter changed also. bad gas cap possible but loosening cap does not always work, just most of the time. module? cam shaft sensor?
The car is a 2004.5 GLI 1.8t. My car threw a CEL about two weeks ago. When i ran the codes it had one for the camshaft position sensor, one for the secondary air injection, and one for the camshaft position sensor. I cleared all the codes and the light came back on. The only code that came back was the camshaft position sensor P0340 i believe. I drove the car for a week and out of nowhere it just shut off on me while driving.
All the lights on my dashboard were flashing (traction control, battery light, engine light, etc.) I tried to jump it just to see if it would turn over and still nothing. I rolled it down a small hill and tryed to pop start it...still nothing. So I had it towed to my house and I replaced the cam position sensor AND the crankshaft position just to be safe. but now the car still won't start...
The engine is cranking and you can hear the pistons moving but it just can't get the juice to start. After failing to start it 3 times, i noticed a loud vacuum like noise coming from the engine when i turned the key off...but my car would do that every other morning when it actually started and didn't have the CEL, and then once it warmed up the sound would go away.
I have a 350 throttle body injection 3/4 ton 87 Sierra with 107K miles that runs great but when I shut it off it won't start again! Starts right up when it's cold but I have to wait about 2 hours before it will start again once its been started. Turns over just fine. I recently replaced the coil but that didn't do the trick. Is there some kind of sensor or switch that could be heating up?
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