Camry :: 2014 SE - Rear Passenger Side Brake Caliper Frozen Open
Jul 14, 2015
So, my right, rear, brake caliper froze in the open position a little while back; I hit the brake hard, it held, heard a clack, then it let go and stayed in the open (uncompressed) position. I lost some braking power but at least have been able to drive. No visible brake fluid leak, other three brakes working fine.
At 125K, I've decided to do a full brake job, and am about to search for some of the parts on the awesome stickied parts reference list up above. I'll hopefully find some parts are available at NAPA, where I'm also ordering the right side cv axle.
So, I'm only finding remanufactured brake calipers at NAPA. Are they decent or should I look for something new elsewhere?
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I have an '04 Toyota solar a. In 2012 I replaced the rear calipers and rear break pads and rotors Now 18 months later I have been told that my rear caliper piston is frozen and I have to replace both calipers and beak pad and rotors. Does this sound reasonable. It will cost me another $600. What should I do
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My passenger side front and rear windows dont work. Both driver side windows work, just not the right side/passenger side.
Also when I press the master door lock/unlock switch on the driver seat, every door except the rear passenger door works. It stays unchanged so I guess it is not receiving a signal or something is not letting the signal reach the lock.
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Started to change front pads and rotors on my GX470, but couldn't get the caliper bolts loose. Is it safe to use a torch to heat up the area around the bolts so I can loosen the bolts? Any other way to break these bolts free?
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Yesterday (well for a while, but yesterday was bad) I had some brake issues, turns out the passenger side front caliper went bad (corroded, doesn't retract) so I need to get another one. Only place I saw Red caliper for my jazz blue for sale was on ecstuning and that was 189. Seems a little steep so I was wondering if there are any other places who sell the Red OEM calipers. If not I might just go through ecs.
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My right front brake caliper is frozen and I cannot turn the tire. This happened about a month ago and I went to Autozone and they gave me a new caliper, rotor and brakes, under warranty, and now the caliper is frozen again and I cannot turn the tire when jacked up. It seems to release after a period of time. I am not sure if it has a proportioning valve for the front brakes, but the driver side wheel turns freely and is not stuck.
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2005 Toyota Solara my front driver side caliper was sticking and heating up a couple months ago... replaced the caliper and the rotor... still had the same problem. I would drive it, it got hot and stuck, after I parked for a little while it slowly released. Talked to a couple of mechanics and they both said undoubtedly I had a bad flex hose and it was collapsing with pressure and then will release... I changed the flex hose and flushed the fluid and it was immediately fixed...no problems.
Drove the car for a month, went to South Carolina and back and then a couple days ago the same thing started happening. Talked to a mechanic, he told me that the new caliper may have gotten fried from over heating before I changed the flex hose... Got a new caliper today (warranty) exchange... changed it out and still have the same problem. When it sticks I can release the pressure by opening the bleeder valve so it seems like the flex hose issue again... my only thought now is maybe the new flex hose is a bad one and someone mentioned the proportioning valve.
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This is my second time posting for the same issue on a 2003 3.5L with 120,000+ miles. Rear driver side brake caliper is stuck again. I have replaced both rear calipers after the driver side stuck a few months back. So most likely the first time was caused by something else.
What else could be causing this? Brake line, master cylinder, or other? I did not replace any brake lines the last time this happened. Just calipers and pads.
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The passenger side rear door will not open. I've tried from the outside handle, inside handle, jerking, pushing, etc. Nothing.
How in the world can I find out and fix the problem if I can't get the door open to get the door panel off??? And yes, I've tried unlocking it...
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My passenger side rear window will not open. Is there a fuse for this or is the motor just bad?
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So last night I go to pick up my daughter and the doors are unlocked but her door won't open. I try from the outside and no luck. I get in the back on the driver's side and the lock button is on. I open the door with some difficulty and it opens. It's been fine since.
Today I tried to open that window and the window wouldn't open from my console or from the rear passenger side switch.
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I was replacing the brakes on the X, the threaded part that receives the top bolt for the caliper is frozen. I tried whacking it with a hammer and tried to free it up by turning it but no good. The bottom bolt assembly worked like it should but the top is frozen solid and makes the brakes rub, you can smell it. Do I need to replace the whole assembly or is there replacement parts for this?
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Just noticed the passenger side floor has water frozen on carpet. There is no evidence of water on the sides or from the dash area. I reached under the car and I can see 2 holes, one of them is plugged with a rubber grommet/plug and the other I can stick my finger way up into it. My wife has been driving this in the rain a couple days last week.
Is that a possible source for the water getting in? Can I order a replacement plug if it fell out?
I just did read something about a "sealing cover" and I matched against the driver side and it does appear to be missing. Seems to be a round 40mm plug. I measured the driver side and plug is 40mm and the hole is more like 25mm. Is this the right part?
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2009 XLT.. rear drivers side door is locked and closed. Master lock button, remote button and keypad all function and make the manual lock rod go up and down as it should. Both the interior and exterior door handles move freely, as if the door were properly locked, but regardless of the lock position neither will open the door.
I dismantled the door from the inside as best I could and can see all cables and rods are intact down to the actuator mechanism. Pretty sure something inside the actuator is messed up, but how do I get the door open to get at the screws needed to remove the actuator?? If I need to pry the actuator apart, what am I looking for (or more acurately, feeling around for) to release the door latch??
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I've searched, but nothing came up. I want to remove the brake calipers (unbolt from the rotors) for cleaning and painting. I need confirmation that the fronts are just two 17mm bolts on the back of the caliper that is holding it? I tried earlier but it was right after a drive so car was hot and the bolts seemed like they were secured on tightly. I will try again this weekend. Btw. I have a 350 f sport
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2002 F150 Screw... The other day I had a passenger in the truck with me. He tried to roll down the window in subzero weather and the window was frozen shut. The motor overcame the ice and pull the window down but I think a bracket come off the window. Now the window does not go up-and-down straight It is a little cockeyed. I've never tried to get inside the door of my pickup to fix a motor or something like that? How to access it? Once I get in, How do you reattach the glass to the motor and bracket that holds the window?
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I have the exact same problem as described in the below video.
I have worked on brake pads once. I just haven't had the guts to try it on my Hybrid yet.
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What is the proper procedure in changing the brake pads without unbolting the caliper?
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I've always done everything brake wise on my vehicles but this is one I have never seen in all my years. I replace all rear pads about 2 months ago and yesterday i heard a horrible sound. Took the passenger side tire off and the pads are completely gone and it's into the metal. Both are worn evenly but both are gone. A quick check of the driver side rear revealed what looked like complete new pads and both of those pads are also worn evenly. My first thought was that the passenger side caliper was closing but not releasing. But I took it off and used the clamp to return the fluid to the reservoir. I fully expected it to be rough to get the piston to go in....unfortunately it went back in easily. For the hell of it I performed the same test on the drivers side and it retracted just as easily. I'm at a loss. I have a passenger caliper and pads ordered but id hate to spend $80 on a caliper if its not needed. Oh...the pins that the caliper screws to are also moving easily on both sides.
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Last night I took the turn a bit too sharply and the rear passenger wheel drove onto the curb, and I heard a scratching noise from the rear passenger side. Now I'm worried that I've broken something, because now the passenger side leaf spring feels a bit more bouncy than the one on the driver side. I have never paid any attention to my rear suspension until I drove over that curb, so maybe it was always bouncy. What I'm worrying about is the scratching sound when the wheel was on the curb, could that be the traction control kicking in?
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Last Spring, my 2007 Camry Hybrid (54k miles back then, now at 62k) developed an obnoxious squeal coming out of the left rear wheel while driving at highway speeds. It takes several minutes at this speed to make the sound, so I believe wheel temperature triggers the sound. Touching the brake would temporarily silence it. After parking the car, I discovered that the left rear wheel was very warm, while the others were cool. I also saw excessive brake dust on the wheel.
I pulled the wheel to inspect. and saw that the track of the brake pad had moved a millimeter or two up the disk, so now part of the pad was over the "rusty" portion of the disk. The rusty, unworn part of the disc was thicker, so the part of the pad that was now over it was rubbing. At higher speeds, the rubbing would heat up the wheel and I'd gradually get the loud squeal.
I dismantled the pad, cleaned it, tightened the mounting brackets (via slight bending) and put it all back together. This solved the problem for 8 months. It just came back to haunt me on a recent highway trip...
It's a pain to take it all apart, especially if I am only temporarily fixing the issue. The pads still have over 85% live (including the rubbing one) and the disks look great on all wheels with no vibrations.
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