Camry :: 2014 - Replacing Of Rear Shoes - 4mm
May 22, 2012
I have no experience with drum brakes. I have no clue how long they are good for and what to look for in terms of wear. I assumed last week that with 226K miles on the car that the shoes must be reaching the end of their life. I went on Ebay and bought the spring kits and new shoes.
The last time I inspected the shoes was when the car had 100K miles on it. They didn't look too bad. When I started to replace the shoes after just buying all of the parts they looked almost the same as they did when the car had 100K on it. The rear facing shoes are about 5mm thick and the forward facing shoes at the thinnest part near the middle are 3mm thick. The specs in the maintenance manual give 5mm normal and 1 mm minimum.
Since I already have all of the parts and can't return them should I replace the shoes anyway? The manual says if the shoes show uneven wear to replace them. The rear facing shoes have even wear from top to bottom while the forward facing shoes are thicker on the ends and are thinner in the middle. The only issue that I have with the rear brakes is with the parking brake. I have the parking brake cable adjusted all the way and it will barely hold the car in place while in neutral. The shoes that I purchased are made by Wagner and being brand new are not even all the way across. They are also only 4mm thick.
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Soon my rear shoes will need replacing in my '02 . I've given up searching for info on how to replace them. Seems all the links I find are for vehicles that have rear disc brakes and mine are drums. Is this a do-able thing or should I just hand it over to a shop? I've done my share of brake jobs on other vehicles but not this would be my first Ford.
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I need to remove the bumper to replace the reflectors for some lead breaking lights, so I'll also need to find the rear break lights cables to jump this leds.
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I just replaced the rear brake shoes and they seem really tight to the drum on the left side. Right side was liitle tight but OK. Self adjuster is screwed all the way in so I'm not sure why this happened.
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I took my car in about three months ago when brake indicator started squeaking in the rear. Shop told me that the drums, shoes and wheel cylinders needed replacing. After spending a few hundred replacing all those parts, the squeaking began. It's a kind of rhythmic squeak that starts towards the end of braking. the rate varies with the speed of the car, so it definitely seems to be coming from the brakes. I took it in not long after. They said they only heard a clicking noise, and that was because the brakes were mis-adjusted. They re-adjusted it. I drove it home. The squeaking is still there. This also happens a lot more when it's heated up so maybe that's why they didn't hear it in the first place.
I take the car back. They said the drum has been warped. They replace the drums. I take it home. Still squeaking a few days later, and I feel the brake pedal pulsating now. I take it back in. They say the issue is from the front brake rotors being warped. I get these replaced elsewhere with ceramic pads. Squeaking is still there.
I take it back in to the original shop because I'm certain it's from the rear. They look at it again and say the drums are warped, again, and that they'd never seen anything like it. They turn the drums. (and receipt says there will be no more warranty on the rear drums... what?)
Unsurprisingly, squeaking did not stop, not even the day after. I took it to a different shop. They spent all day on it and drove it around with me and their final word is that the reason for the squeaking is cheap parts. They recommended I call the original shop and ask for factory parts and offer to pay the difference for the parts.
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My Treg is in the shop at the moment to have some squeaks and rattles looked at - and I was expecting to get it back on Monday this week. However, was told on Tuesday by the garage that the engineers had discovered that the rear handbrake shoes had completely disintegrated and that they needed to replace them. Now
a) I don't make a habit of driving around with the handbrake on, and
b) my car has only done 6,000 miles
So what's going on? To cap it all, the parts are on back-order from Germany. Which means it will likely be two weeks before I get my car back. This is starting to get on my nerves. It feels like my Treg is in the garage more than out of it and I'm beginning to regret my purchase.
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How do I replace the rear speakers in the 09 Camry? I put in door speakers no problem but can't find anything on for an 09 camry rear deck.
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I didn't need to replace the rear shoes. I just did it because the front brake pads were worn and I thought the rear shoes might be worn also. The front brakes were super easy to replace. The rear brakes not so easy. I ended up using a breaker bar and a 32mm axle socket wrench just to loosen the spindle/hub nut so I could remove the brake drum.
I re-assembled the brakes shoes and springs exactly like it shows in my Haynes manual. The new shoes are shaped identical to the ones I replaced. Now I can't get the shoes to seat tight when I apply the brakes and my parking brake isn't working at all, although I can see the parking brake lever move on the trailing shoe when the lever on the console in the car is raised and lowered.
I did as the manual directed. After putting the wheels back on, I applied the brakes "forcefully" a number of times while I was driving forward and backward. This was supposed to auto adjust the brakes. There is no adjuster slot. (The front brakes are stopping fine.)
The old shoes weren't that worn when I replaced them, so the parking brake shouldn't be totally out of adjustment. I don't want to remove the console and start messing with the parking brake cable adjustment until I can figure out what I must have done wrong when I worked on the rear brakes. It seems like the adjuster lever pawl is not working?
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A day before 3 yr service and MOT test on 7 seat 2011 Santa Fe, a noise from the rear offside wheel. Advised the garage to check and they discover the handbrake shoes were detaching from their mountings, not wearing out but detaching. This has apparently happened before causing someone's wheel to lock up and the vehicle recovered to the garage.
Strange that the same garage has seen it before so it must be happening elsewhere.
Cross pond Translations....
handbrake=parking brake
MOT = annual government safety test
Shoes = pads / linings
Rear offside = left right rear
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My rear defogger stopped working after I got the car back from collision repair. I'm trying to see if I can resolve this matter by myself before having to take it back. I've noticed that there is no rear defogger contact on the power grid. None that I can see anyway. I was trying to locate a manual or where it was located if there even is one. Or Why my defogger stopped working.
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I am having an issue with my '14 Camry Se. The rear floor mats are constantly damp. Front mats are dry. There is a ton of condensation that builds up on the windows everyday. I do not believe the ac drain tube is clogged.
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So, my right, rear, brake caliper froze in the open position a little while back; I hit the brake hard, it held, heard a clack, then it let go and stayed in the open (uncompressed) position. I lost some braking power but at least have been able to drive. No visible brake fluid leak, other three brakes working fine.
At 125K, I've decided to do a full brake job, and am about to search for some of the parts on the awesome stickied parts reference list up above. I'll hopefully find some parts are available at NAPA, where I'm also ordering the right side cv axle.
So, I'm only finding remanufactured brake calipers at NAPA. Are they decent or should I look for something new elsewhere?
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I am thinking of replacing the rear 6 lug axles with 7 lug axles on the rear and new 7 lug hubs along with 7 lug rotors and wheels...
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My windshield washer warning light is stuck on. I think there is a good reason for it. My washer tank has been converted to a stand alone fuel cell filled with C16. Just looking for any ways to have the tank function properly. I assume the sensor, or float (if there is a float) went bad. Heard of people covering them in lacquer or something to repel moisture.
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I just inherited a 2012 F150 Fx4 Super Crew. Nice looking truck, but the wheels are stock 17" steel. Need upgrading to nicer looking wheels/wheel covers w/o breaking the bank?
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This is Just an FYI. I replaced the plugs in my 2011 F-150 3.5 Ecoboostwith 50,000 miles. I had a miss under heavy acceleration. Turns out the plugs had a gap over .090" and the side electrode was burned. Replaced them and all is well.
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Today morning, when I started the car and backed out of the garage, the rear view camera display was not lit-up. Normally as I get out of the garage, it senses the change in outside lighting & changes the brightness of the display automatically.
After backing up, I put the car on Drive and then on Park, but the display was totally blank. No audio nor response by touching any buttons. Then I turned off the car & restarted it.
Then the display came up, but with this weird looking screen, which I have never seen before in the 5 months that I have owned this car..
It lasted for about 30-40 secs, with the progress bar moving all the way across. Then everything was back to normal!.
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Do the rear wiper arm of a new model Audi A3 can replace the 2015 GTI's? The GTI version leaves a bunch of the blade exposed and I would like a cleaner look with no exposed blade. I think the A3 may work and still have the same size wiper.
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2014 lariat crew w/10k miles...let son drive it on date & somehow came back with snapped off turn signal/multi-switch...had local mechanic replace-now button on end doesn't activate wipers or washer spray (actual wiper switch works, as does dimmer function & signals). Mechanic rechecked & says all ok but switch may need to be programmed by dealer...really?? Seems like it would b plug-n-play. Why just the washer function wouldn't work?
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Need to replace the oil pan on a 2011 Toyota Camry LE... Most of the other cars I've done this in the pan usually just drops out but this looks like like the front exhaust system might have to be removed. Any tips pics or videos on how to do this?
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