Camry :: 2013 - Key Locks Up And Won't Push In To Start Vehicle
Oct 8, 2013
At least once a week key locks up and won't push in to start vehicle. Dealer service stated this is a security issue when you bump into the steering wheel it locks up, told me to move steering wheel. It did start after doing this. This is happening at least once a week and I should not have to move the steering wheel every time. It is frustrating since the vehicle is 3 months old. Tried all keys, even valet key, nothing works, until I move the steering wheel.
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I am very puzzled with my new 2015 Lexus RX 350 , I parked my car at the gas station and suddenly noticed that I dont have my key on me and couldnt find it inside the car anywhere. I thought I dropped it somewhere outside but to my surprise when I tried starting my car it started fine assuming the key was some where close by.
I tried stepping out and to lock the car and got a message the key is inside the vehicle so car wont lock. I was able to start the car and drive it home about an hour drive car never complained about key not detected message. I called the dealership and they told me car will keep running if you drop the key outside while the car is running but after 15 mins of driving it will give a message key not detected.
I am locking the car now using the second remote but its risky to have the car in such a condition as any one can drive it away if they open the lock somehow. I have looked every where under the seat, in between the centre console and seat, under the seats key no where to be found. Could it be possible that key was dropped outside and the car is malfunctioning that its allowing me to start it and drive it without complaining.
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Is there a programming sequence that will keep my 2002 Camry from locking all doors when the vehicle is put in drive/reverse. I realize this is considered a safety feature but I prefer to lock them myself.
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Santa Fe 2013. I bought it a few months ago and soon after a strange issue appeared from time to time. When I push the start/stop button it spins the engine but it wont start no matter how much I wait. Usually it start fine for the second time. This happens sometimes and sometimes not. About 2 months ago it didn't want to start for about 5-10 minutes no matter what I tried (push the button with the tip of the key), so I decided to go to a service station.
There they connected the car to a computer to check if there were any error codes logged. But they haven't find anything, after the second time I visited the station they replaced the battery in the key, told that maybe that was the problem.
I really don't know much about cars but it was a strange idea as I would expect the same behaviour when the battery is low than when the key is not present: Car not doing anything but displaying a message that the key is not present.
Anyway, it kinda worked, or I was lucky. For more than a month everything was fine, not a single issue. And today morning it started again. I brought my car to a hand washing, and after they cleaned the outside with steam they wanted to park the car inside the building to clean the interior, and the same issue occurred. And after that it happened with me as well several times this day.
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Getting the 3 lock push start to work ( ie clicking the lock button 3 times fast to remotely start the car)? I have only had it work twice. Enform remote works each time, but would like to have another option...
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I have a 2013 RLine 4mo and I'm still trying to figure out why I don't have keyless entry and push start since it seems like other trims have it.
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I have a 2013 Elantra GLS, with Push Start ignition.
Whenever I get out of my car for a few minutes, I keep the engine running, so what I do is, I keep the Smart Key inside the car, and remove the physical key trying to lock the doors from outside (I do this to keep the car cool from inside because the heat in my country is scorching!)...what I found recently is that as I do this, only the driver door gets locked, and all the other doors are still unlocked...I don't know if this is a fault or standard....
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While working on diagnosing my center console issue last night, my engine refused to start & I am completely lost as to what the issue is.
I hear a buzzing sound when I hit the brakes and push the button to start.
But all my headlights lights & interior electronics work fine.
I am so irritated as this happens on the SATURDAY evening and everywhere is closed on Sunday; hence I can't get the car serviced.
This is a brand new car w/ less than 2600 miles on it.
YouTube ....
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We just got our 2012 Camry XLE about 1 month ago. Today, the smart key push start didn't work; the brake pedal seemed like it was seized, but the green (key) light did manage to come on, indicating it knew the key was there. When I pressed the start, all of the dash lights were flickering, but the car wouldn't start. Was towed to the dealer, who ran a diagnostic that indicated the battery had failed (the options for the diagnostic are pass, charge, and fail). They installed a new battery and it seems fine.
One of the doors wasn't completely closed overnight - would this have caused the battery to be done? I could see if it caused the battery to drain, requiring a boost / charge.
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1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport
My Jeep 4WD has begun acting strangely. It will not disengage when I push the handle down. It will drop back into 2WD only after I run it a few feet in reverse. Also, during 4WD travel I hear a whining sound. In addition, today I smelled an odor that made me think something was getting very hot. One more: when turning during 4WD the steering wheel oscillates back and forth. The car will turn, but it feels like it is fighting back.
I bought the car new and have used 4WD at least a few times every year since. I have never had any problem with it before and have kept everything maintained that I know about. The vehicle has approximately 127,000 miles and has only been driven on paved roads (no off-road driving). There is no problem when driving in 2WD.
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Working on my buddys 2003 camry, wont start, has air and spark and not getting fuel. replaced fuel pump already. If you hit it with a quite a bit of starting fluid it will fire up for a few moments and then die out, its got half tank of gas. The whole start of this is he ran out of gas and since then wont start.
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A neighbor of mine has a 2007 Camry, and always turns off her AC before she turns off the vehicle, and back on only after the car has started back up, to avoid putting a toll on her battery. I recall with a friends 2005 Lexus ES that you can hold an AC control down while you start your car, which engages a mode that automatically delays the start of your AC by a few seconds when you start the car to avoid having to do this yourself. You only have to set this up once, and going forward, it "knows" what to do. I have tried to search for this hidden key combination, but have had no luck finding it in either Lexus or Toyota forums.
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I have had no problems with my Camry until one day it didn't crank or start. I first thought either battery or starter. Well the battery tested at 100%, alternator.
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I have a 2010 explorer. I bought it with a lot of the lights, i.e. tire pressure, skid control, abs, service engine, air bag, service rcs and some others on and these systems are not working. a module was missing associated to the AWD system, I have put one in but awd still does not work through the 4 high and 4 low work. The automatic door locks does not lock when the vehicle starts moving. Some of the lights on the dash and doors don't work either.
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I have a question about turning the car into accessory mode when I shut the car off from running. Right now, when I push the button and shut it off, everything shuts off including the radio. But I want the radio to stay on when that happens. I couldn't find any settings on this and it seems really foolish that it would be designed that way.
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It happens quite a bit when I'm driving, the locks will keep locking and will make the lock sound with no one touching them... It's getting pretty annoying ...
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I bought a 2016 ES 350 last month.
The doors (especially the rear doors) require quite a solid push to close them, or they just come to within an inch or so of closing and don't close all the way.
Want to know if this is a problem with the production of my car in particular, or if the model is just like this.
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Today I tried starting my car (shortly after I drove it with no problems 2 hours earlier), and when I pushed the start button (holding it down firmly), it made this weird clattering-clicking noise (the dials on the cluster went haywire), but no noises were coming out of the engine, so there was not attempt to even turn the engine (wasn't the grinding noise from engine that you get if you don't hold down the start button firmly long enough). Thought it was the battery so tried to jump the car, but it wouldn't start immediately either. The AC/radio were all on while I was attempting to start the car - shouldn't be the case if the battery was dead???.
After about the 3rd attempt to start the car in the middle of the jump start, the engine started.
Anyways, got home, and then tried starting the car again and no luck. Does this sound like an issue with the battery (lights and AC and radio were all working fine), or perhaps the starter/push button? Has there been any recalls/TSB on anything related for the MKIV R?
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Noticed that when you first start the car it makes a very strange noise? Almost as if the motor was running dry for a few seconds and the rpms fluctuate a little... Is that normal? I've only recently owned my camry and was just curious. 2.5L motor.
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I have a 2013 ES350 with 56k miles. Key fob opens and locks all doors except the driver door. I called the Lexus dealer in town and they said its probably the door lock acuator that needs to be replaced. It's out of warranty since it's over 50k miles. Is it possible to replace this yourself or is there some kind of recall for this. The car is only two years old and it seems ridiculous that something like this would already go out on a Lexus.
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I have a 2013 Gen 3 Prius II. 55k miles. Purchased brand new 2.5 years ago so I am out of warranty by mileage unfortunately.
One by one over the past two months three of my door locks have stopped functioning. Front left, front right, and back right. Sometimes if it isn't too hot outside my driver's door will work. Otherwise the car just beeps repeatedly when I walk up to it until I unlock it with my key manually. I've seen in some older threads that people have had the same issue. It seems to be the door lock actuators based on those threads. It's incredibly frustrating that a 2.5 year old car is having this problem on three doors. It also seems obvious that these actuators are garbage if 3 out of 4 of them have crapped out independently right around the same time.
Seems to be a very expensive repair when done by Toyota per door. I will have it looked at this week but don't have high hopes. Seems like you should be able to make a good case that the failure rate is too high if multiple doors are failing.
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