Camry 2012+ :: The Engine Began Spurring For A Couple Seconds
Jun 4, 2016
It was pretty warm this afternoon, had the AC on full blast. Drove into a left turn lane and stopped for the red arrow, the engine began spurring for a couple seconds. Then it caught itself but afterward felt the whole car shake for like a minute, drove off once it was a green arrow and nothing else happened. Has any one else had this or a similar experience happened to them? My Camry just hit 30k miles, I wonder if it just had a "spaz" (or whatever you want to call it) attack.
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I've noticed on first start up the RPMs go as high as 3000 for a couple of seconds and then drop to normal even at 68' degrees,is that normal? because if it is what will aspect when the temperature drops to 20 or even lower.It is a 2.5 liter 4.
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2012 Camry SE I4, non-entune, no roof, Kentucky built in spring '12.
Tonight on the way home, driving in light traffic, roughly 45-50mph seatbelt light came on and began to chime. I was wearing my seatbelt at the time, and had nothing in the passenger seat. When approaching a stoplight, the light went out and the chime stopped upon braking. I am going to take it in tomorrow to have it checked, but am assuming the dealer will find nothing. I looked under the dr. seat and there wasn't anything that could have pulled on the wiring.
So again, briefly:
During light traffic with seat belt buckled properly, seat belt light illuminates and chime starts. Upon braking for stop light the seatbelt light went out and chime stopped.
This is kind of a big deal to me because this is my wife's primary vehicle and the airbag will not work with the seatbelt light illuminated.
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I have a 04.5 gli 1.8t. When I start the car in the am and give it some gas to go it sputters for a couple seconds and then goes just fine and I have no more issues with it. Where to start looking? No trouble codes thrown either...
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I have a 07 Passat, manual 2.0T, 90 kmiles.
There was a recall for some faulty circuit in the steering column, which got replaced in September. Ever since the replacement, about once a week (with a daily commute of 40 miles each way, mostly congested highway), the following happens:
First the engine revs up for a couple of seconds when I change gears, to 4-5kRPM. Then within 5 minutes, I get a "Parking Brake Fault" message, together with the yellow P light staying on. If I stop the engine, I cannot restart it for 30 minutes or so, there's a message that says "depress clutch first".
When I finally manage to restart, I won't have a problem for about a week. Is this common?
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I have a 1997 Saturn, and have noticed for the past couple of months that when the car is idling at a stoplight, the engine seems to rev or almost skip a little bit. The RPMs go from about 1000 down to 500 for a couple of seconds, and this will happen once every 10 seconds or so. Otherwise, it runs fine...but this is happening more and more frequently than it used to.
I had the transmission rebuilt over the summer and its still under warranty. What might be causing this?
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I have a '92 Ranger with a 2.3 liter engine. She starts and runs a couple of seconds and shuts down. I'm thinking maybe a fuel pump is not putting out thepressure needed. Gotta go to work tomorrow and gotta get the truck running today.
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I own a 2000 Ford F-250 5.4 Automatic. It tows my 5th wheel trailer very good. On our last trip it suddenly experienced the "check engine light" effect.
The light turns on randomly and either goes of after a couple of seconds or it doesn't go on when I restart the engine.It is mainly annoying, but when in towing it really hurts, because the engine switches into an emergency mode and stalls.
I read that the engine uses only 4 cylinders. I read many articles on the web about that light, but I couldn't find a solution. The thing is I brought the car to several repair shops but none read a code from the computer.
I think it's not a real fault but a misreading or maybe a cable that's grounding? The problem is, I can't bring the car to a repair shop, because there is nothing wrong with the car. How can I find the source of the problem?
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So this morning on my way to work, open highway, late for work... I did what most chewbaccas would do. Turn of ESP, and punch it! Well that quickly become an issue. My CEL started flashing for a couple seconds. As soon as it happened I let off of the accelerator, turned ESP back on, and coasted... lil bit loud in the back, but it normally is. (HFC, 3inch EIP Comp exhaust) The CEL went away.. but I'm nervous about what could have happened. I just replaced my Haldex Pump a couple months ago, and the rear diff was replaced 3-4 years ago. I haven't scanned it yet, I'll do that when I get home tonight... I tried to do a quick search in the forums but didn't come up with anything significant .
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I have a 2009 corolla with about 125,00. I bought it used about two years ago and it has been trouble free. This morning when I went to start it, about 29F with heavy frost on the windows, it would fire up run for a couple of seconds and cut off. I id this probably 20 times and gave up. I called a neighbor to take me to my bus and thought I would try it one more time. fired right up and stayed running. Also started right up when I tried it later when I got back from work.
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Ok so about a month ago I went to the store got into my car turned on my car after a couple seconds it beeped about 3 times then turned off i turned it back on and it worked fine ... and now yesterday i was driving the car everything was fine till i was driving on the freeway and it beeped 3 times again and looked like it was going to turn off but didn't .... and about a half hour later driving doing about 45 mph the car beeps and turned off on me ... So I pulled over and just turned the car on and it worked fine again ...
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I am having this weird issue that started from what I believe this weekend. I was doing 70mph and it was snowing. Not always but something like maybe 1 out of 5 times when I activated the washer fluid motor my headlights would turn off for like 1-2 seconds. Super scary when you are driving in the pitch dark on a highway.
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I'm experiencing an annoying problem with the air recirculation value on my Touareg. Basically it will randomly go into oscillations for a coupld of seconds, where is sounds like the vent blowers are either speeding up and slowing down quickly, or the recirculation valve is opening and closing rapidly.
This seems to happen randomly, and usually only lasts for a couple of seconds. I've taken it to the dealer twice but they aren't able to determine the cause of the problem.
Here is my theory for what it's worth. I think it may be the recirculation valve, whose job is to close the external air value from outside air to recirculating internal air when it senses pollutants in the outside air. I think the problem is caused by one of two scenerios;
1) the sensor is bad or failing and sends random signals to the vent controller causing it to open and close rapidly, or
2) The control circuit is not tuned correctly, thus instead of waiting to see if the pollutants it senses is sustained, it reacts instantaneously.
The noise this produces is quite annoying!
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Just rescued this 2004 from a driveway death. While checking out a no A/C condition I notice that the A/C compressor cycles on for about 10-15 seconds then stops, does this 4 times and then ends. System shows low pressure but doesn't run long enough to build up any. Need to get the OBD-2 tester on it.
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I have a Mini Cooper 2005. Last month the battery died. The warning sign was that when I turned the key, there was a second or two pause where everything went dead. No lights at all in cabin and clock reset. Then it started up. It did that many times before the battery went dead. I got it charged and thought all was well but now the mini did the pause thing again and I fear that I am going to deal with a dead battery again.
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Am I correct in thinking that Toyota recommend changing the spark plugs at 100,000 miles on the gen II?
The reason I ask is because on a couple of occasions the ICE ran rough for a couple of seconds when it first started up like it didn't have a spark or something on one of the plugs. Also I've noticed an slight drop in mpg, not just due to the time of year either. In winter I normally average 48-50mpg (UK) but I'm struggling to get mid 40's ATM. My pri has covered 75,000 miles so was thinking of changing them now to see if it improves?
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Transmission Issue I am having with my Mk6 GTI DSG. When the car comes to a complete stop and you need to accelerate quickly to get on to incoming traffic, for example, the car takes a couple of seconds to engage. This behavior is becoming very annoying! I've been looking around about this issue. Some say that they have had a problem with the DSG Valve Body (Mechatronics Unit) and others say it might be the DSG Break Sensor. I am no expert but I would presume the Sensor Would be cheaper than the Valve Body. I would like to try and replace the sensor first and then see if I need to replace the Valve Body.
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I own a 2010 ford fusion, with a no cap fuel filling system. My son ran it out of gas. While he was trying to add some he could not get it to take because of the internal seal not releasing, it just spilled out the overflow. Ever since then , at the gas station when fueling,the pump will shut off every couple of seconds. I don't know if running out of gas caused this,but i would like to know how to fix it.
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So im driving home and i realize one of my headlights are out. I get home and turn them and turn them back on and the headlight turns very dim for a couple of seconds, and then shuts off. What this could be? Ballast or Bulb. I have major modifications done to the wheels wells to fit the wheels, so i don't want to take it to the dealer.
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Summary of Events:
Lower radiator hose decided to disconnect itself.
Stopped and had car towed home.
Connected hose and filled coolant system.
Car is hesitant to start and takes a couple seconds of cranking.
Misfires in cylinder 3, and a few in cylinder 5, no other codes.
New OEM plugs, no change.
Swapped coil packs around, no change.
Idle is rough but at speed, everything is smooth.
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My wife has a 2003 elantra. When it is started cold the gas pedal is REALLY sluggish for a couple of seconds but after that it works fine. I thinking it may need a transmission fluid flush but I'm not sure.
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