Camry 2012+ :: Dash Lights Come On And Blinks Once But Car Won't Start
Mar 7, 2015
My 2014 camry won't start. I put my key in the ignition and the dash lights come on and blinks once and won't start. The brake pedal won't depress and the steering wheel stays stiff.
I was messing with my sound system the day before and now the car won't start. I've check the battery and it's good and has juice. I've checked all the fuses and relays seem to be fine. Everything work on the car it just won't start.
These cars have a main relay or something with the ignition switch?
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So I just got some winter tires put on 10 minutes while driving the trac control started blinking and then all the lights on the dash came on and speedometer just went to zero. Still drives but odometer isn't adding mileage and also seems to loose power steering while driving.
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I noticed today, coming to work, my "Brake" warning light is on, on my dash panel. I engaged and disengaged the parking/emergency brake, thinking maybe was stuck there, but the light did not go out.
Is this related to my parking brake or my 4 wheel brakes? I have 4500 miles on this car. It is an XLE, 4 cyl. First time something like this has occurred since purchasing in December.
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I noticed the dash lights go from bright to dim depending on the brightness outside. If i go under an overpass even at freeway speeds it will dim down and then come back up during the day. Even if I have my head lights on during the day it does that. Is there anyway to stop this?
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My wife has 2012 Camry with 23K.
Right now the service engine soon light blinks as the car starts up. Is it a matter of dealer plugging something into clear code? What will the dealer want to service?
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ok so i have this park ave. that i had a new key cut. started and ran fine. then it shut down. nothing showed in error codes. now i insert key in ignition and security light on dash blinks. turn ignition to on(run) security light goes out. tried the 30min relearn for key with no results.
where is the BCM located? is there a decent diagram of where? last diagram i used said the ECM was located by evap. can. damn thing is located in the air filter assembly!
the fuel system is charging. but not staying charged. no cranking of the starter.
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I have a 2003 Camry V6 LE.
Yesterday the headlights did not turn off automatically when the car was locked up after being driven for about 30 minutes. Unfortunately, this was not detected until about 8 hours later.
The door locks would not function with the remote and the doors were manually unlocked.
When I got in the car and tried to start the car the dash and dome lights began blinking/flickering, the CD player ejected the CD, and the security light was blinking as it would if the doors were still locked.
The battery was too low to start the car so I jumped the car to start it and got home.
Battery showed 12.7 volts cold the next morning before the car was started. While running there was about 14.3 volts across the battery terminals which would seem to say the charging system is OK. Battery is just under 3 years old.
Doing some testing, I found that the headlights would turn on with the multifunction switch without the car running. In this case they would not turn off through locking the doors even after double clicking the lock button on the remote. The only way to turn them off in this case was through the multifunction switch.
Other testing shows that if the lights were turned on with the car running, they would turn off automatically within about 30 seconds or so when the car was shut off and the doors locked. In another similar test with the engine running and then shut down I also tried the double click lock using the remote and this also turned the lights off immediately.
Based on research on TN site, one recommendation for a similar, but not identical, problem was to replace the multifunction switch. No one suggests replacing the headlight relay or any of the 4 DRL relays.
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My defrost button blinks for 25 seconds when I start the car. After it stops blinking the fan comes on but I won't defrost the front windshield, air only comes out the side vents.
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2007 Camry ... I had some electrical issues changed alternator and battery. Resolved all other issues except my rear defrost light blinks on start up my rear defrost light blinks for 30 seconds the fan will not work until light quits blinking. Everything worked fine before I blew fuse. I have taken it into dealer to get diagnostic check and nothing shows on there computer. I have no heat and controls do not switch from floor defrost ect. Rear defrost does work. But I need heat and defrost to drive through the winter. I look goofy with window down and its 30 degrees out . Dealer said they had cleared all faults.
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upgrade the audio. I just got off a chat with a Crutchfield advisor. Apparently since the tweeters aren't made to standard size, they will require custom brackets. Crutchfield doesn't sell anything that'd fit the dash on a Camry. The closest is the Infinity, which is 0.017" too tall (that seems workable to me).
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I see that people have successfully upgraded the dash. What's going on? Did everyone build their own brackets? Or can I just ignore that 0.017" difference?
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I have a round plastic disc and one side is tacky to stick to the dash. Are these things easy to remove off the dash years down the road? I'm also worried the circle will be discolored from the rest of the dash.
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The light came on the dash, it blinks at first, then becomes solid. Checked all the air pressure, tires are all fine. Tried resetting with the button, doesn't fix it - blinks then goes solid.
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2012 camry se my question is can I make the fog lights turn on with my parking ligths ???can it be done and how
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I replaced a post-cat O2 sensor because of a code that came up last week. We didn't reset the ECU, but after driving it a couple days the check engine light went out. 3-4 days of driving and everything looked good.
Today the check engine light came on again and autozone read the code as:
P0136 - heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 2 (HO2S12) sensor range/performance condition
Explanation Open circuit or short circuit condition
Probable Cause
Poor electrical connection
check other service codes
Faulty Bank 1 Sensor 2.
Anyway, I thought it might be because we didn't reset ECU and some kind of calibration might be off in the system. So, I unplugged the battery in an attempt to let it discharge and reset ECU. When I connected the battery back up.... ALL THE FREAKIN LIGHTS ARE NOW ON THE DASH. Check engine... traction control.... tire pressure.... everything.
Golf TDI 2012
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Should the dial button illuminate when the dash lights are on? The gas door and km/mph illuminate, should this one also, mine currently does not.
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I bought my 2012 Camry in December and have noticed that the outer air vents on the dash (the big ones beside the doors) are always blowing air regardless of the setting of the system. If I have the air set to blow from the floor or defrost the air blows from where it is supposed to but also blows from these 2 dash vents, the center vents on the dash close like they should when not selected. I'm not talking about a little bit of air that may be getting around the system, it is a full flow of air. It's like these two vents are always open with no way to close them. I have had it in for service and had them check this and they told me that it is the way the system is designed. I find it hard to believe that Toyota would design it this way. Is this normal for all 2012 Camry's?
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After I hit about 1k miles on my XLE I developed a creaking noise on the right side of the dash. It can be heard on all but the smoothest roads at any speed over 20-25 MPH. The rougher the road the worse it gets. At first I thought it was something in the glove box because after repositioning stuff the noise went away temporarily. When it came back I removed everything from the glove box. Having the box door open has no affect and the creaking is still present. I would describe the noise as if two pieces of plastic were rubbing on each other. I have tried applying pressure in all directions to all visible surfaces. It seems I can change the noise or temporarily stop it my pushing on the dash about one inch to the right of the NAV system one inch above the wood trim panel. This usually changes or stops the noise but not always.
Now I have been an auto tech for 30+ years and know finding and fixing rattles, wind noise etc. I figure I will attempt to fix it my self. My first thought was to remove the glove box and take a look around. Do to the 10 million air bags this does not look like an easy task. I have Michell 1 at work so I took a look at the procedure to remove the passenger side dash airbags as I could find nothing about removing the glove box. I only spent about 30 minutes today looking in Michell and partially removing some of what looks to be stopping me.
I was hoping it would be easy. If I have to pull too many pieces off I may loose the ability to find the creak. If I need to remove the air bags I will need to disable the system and drive without the system to find the noise. I suppose I could take in to the dealer to have them not fix it and f up who knows what in the process.
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My Drl indicator light did not show on the dash when I drive in a sunny day(Auto Switch), but it show up when it dusk.
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My 2002 explorer, 4.0l engine. My 4x4 light on the dash blinks 10 times and I've found that sometimes the 4 wheel drive locks in. When i pull into a parking space on dry road I can feel the front of the truck Jerking when trying to park. I hit the 4x4 auto button on the dash a couple of times and the 4 x 4 will disengage. While driving on dry road yesterday the 4x4 light started blinking and I felt the 4x4 slam in. The 4x4 light still blinks and I can't disengage the 4 x 4 this time. The truck has 140,000 miles on it. I'm thinking its the 4x4 control module but I'm not sure.
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OK, I have looked everywhere I can think to look and can't fined anything on this. Dash lights how do you turn them off with the engine running. This is on a 2012 f150 xlt.
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The right side seems plugged up with glove box components.
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