Camry 2012+ :: V6 - Driving Through Puddles Makes Belts Squeal / AC Temporarily Stop Cooling
Sep 13, 2015
My 2012 V6 seems overly susceptible to the belts squealing (which leads to the AC not cooling until the belts dry) when I drive through a puddle.
I don't have charging or electrical problems or any symptoms of a too loose belt, although I suppose perhaps it is slightly loose? Or is this just a common problem because of a not big enough splash guard?
I'm not talking about driving through a monsoon flood with water up to the doorjams, I'm talking about even going 5 to 10 or 20 mph, through a dip in the road with a little standing water, and knowing water will splash up into the engine compartment, make my belts squeal, and half the time, make the AC stop until the belts dry.
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2006 solara. Just changed both belts. Occasional 1 sec squeal on start. Both belts appear tight.
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2001 Accent 1.6, A/T. Just replaced alternator myself. Checked and adjusted all three belts; all seem tight. Now I have a belt squeal. P/S fluid is full. When car starts there is no squeal. 15 seconds later chirp starts. A few seconds later squeal is constant and remains throughout entire ride - except when I make a turn. During any turn squeal goes away, then comes right back.
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A few weeks ago I heard my car was making this weird noise in the morning, when I go really slow, like when I'm parking in reverse or just getting out of my garage in neutral. It comes from the tires, I don't think the problem is in my breaks, because it doesn't make that sound when I'm breaking and I took my car to the dealer (forgot to mention the sound to them) but they said everything was fine, so my brakes should be fine...
Usually the car makes that squeal-sound in the morning. The sound goes away after I start driving on normal speed (40-45mph).
2012 Accent sedan, 5 speed manual.
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My wife's 2012 Camry XLE has developed a brake squeal after a car has been parked for a day at her work or in the driveway or street overnight. The brakes squeal in the beginning when a car is maneuvered out of a parking spot or driveway (backing out) or pulling forward with foot on the brake pedal. After that, during normal city and freeway driving and using the brakes, the squeal does not appear and brakes work fine.
I thought it might be rust but that would be gone when brakes are used. What could it possibly be?
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I have a 2003 Camry LE with 1MZ engine and U151 5 speed auto trans. 138,000 miles The problem is that the trans makes a very noticeable downshift clunk when stopping.
With light driving you can feel what seems to be a 2-1 downshift just before stopping. With aggressive driving and rapid stop the clunk is felt either when stopping or actually after the wheels stop turning depending on speed and hard braking. If you stop aggressively it actually feels like someone hit you from behind. It literally shakes the car.
TRANS FLUID is full and clean. There is no smell or burnt appearance. The trans tests good in forward and reverse stall tests. Neutral to drive/reverse engagement is also quick and firm.
Here is the fun part. The condition does not exist when cold. After the engine and trans warms up it starts happening. Also, after presenting the condition with a hot trans, I can shift it out of drive and into 3rd and have no problem at all no matter how I drive. To make things more interesting, I can erase the trans learned values with a scan tool and the trans shifts normally for a couple of days before the condition returns.
We are concerned that there may be damage done if this condition continues.
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I have a 2002 Accent 1.6 with 187000 km on it. I started noticing over the last month that when I shift into second gear the car seems to stop powering the wheels temporarily. Once the RPM's pick up (around 2200) the problem goes away. This seems to only happen when I originally shift into second and the RPM's are lower. If I accelerate slowly then the lag usually won't happen, but if I push down more on the gas then you can really notice the lag.
The spark plugs only have 15000 km on them, air filter is new, just replaced the fuel filter, oil was just changed (synthetic) as well as the filter, and I just recently cleaned out the throttle body. I have also seemed to notice a loss of overall power since at highway speeds since this problem started. The engine doesn't lag when I'm in 4th or 5th gear on the highway, but it seems to have less power when I'm accelerating on the highway.
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So I let my son drive my car for the day because i wasn't doing anything. Now once he gives it back i started driving and now my car drives kinda bumpy and makes a thudding noise the faster I go. now i confronted my son(He's 19) and he told me he went to fast over a hill. What seems to be the problem.
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Door clicks when opening or closing it? My drivers door makes all kinds of clicking noises every time I get in and out...
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I have a 2008 Ford E250 cargo van with the 4.6 V8 (186,000 miles) I drove through several puddles of high standing water last week, The last one did the job so to say. I thought I could make it through but I didn't. I managed to get the van through the puddle but not without ticking, The electronic throttle control light came on in addition to the check engine light (PO 103 code) The air filter got wet and the engine oil looks like milk chocolate.
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My 2011 Camry XLE 6 cylinders, 50000 miles, stalls in a wet weather when it has being driven over standing water. Last time, about two weeks ago, it was rainy and I was driving with lots of running water around. Suddenly, car stalled and I could not restart it. I kept trying to restart, but all attempts failed and I called for tow truck. It would run for a few seconds with lots of light on the dashboard and stall. I was waiting for an hour and a half, rain stopped an hour after my car stalled and I was able to start the car and drive home. Next morning I started to drive in rain and dashed board lights started to light on. During next two weeks I showed the car to two very experienced mechanics and they could not find any problem.
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I have a 1995 Toyota Camry. It has leaked a little oil off and on for awhile, but seemed to need just a quart of oil every few months. A couple of weeks ago, I was a t the gas station, checking air in my tires, water in the radiator, and I needed to put in 2 qts. of oil. For some reason I got distracted and forgot to put the oil cap back on the engine.
I drove 30mls x2 and realized that there was a funny smell that I needed to check. Looked under the hood and found the oil cap sitting there! Went to the gas station checked the oil and it needed 2 qts. once again. Went to the car wash, washed out the inside of the car (shielding the alternator from water), went home and my car started showing sizable puddles of oil under the car for the next several days and the dip stick showed nothing after 4 days (usually means 2 qts down)! 2 qts in 4 days--what's going on?
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I notice a high pitch squeal when I turn off the car ignition and is synced with the slowing of the engine cooling fan. I don't notice any significant engine noise while the car is fully running in idle. Does this indicate that bearings are going bad in the electric engine fan assembly? If so, would the noise alone be justification for getting a warranty replacement by the dealer or would they need a total fan failure in order to get it replaced under warranty at no cost. If not, think its worthwhile to replace the fan module myself to avoid imminent failure?
2009 Sonata GLS (NF) 50k Mileage
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I have been experiencing an intermittent problem with the power steering on my 2002 Santa Fe. It seems to happen in the rain or when driving through puddles...the power steering seems to lock up for a short period, usually lasting only seconds. It has only been a nuisance so far, but it could be a major safety issue if it happens at the wrong time.
- 112K miles
- PS Fluid looks full
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On cold starts the engine makes a continual squeal. Within minutes if I drive it or simply rev the engine a few times the sound is gone and the engine again sounds glorious. If I spray the belt with water the sound immediately ends. I have replaced the water pump, belt tensioner roller, idler rollers and of course the belt. All to no avail. 2005 Porsche 911...
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My 2003 Chevy Imapala went over some large water puddles and shortly after a check engine light came out. My local auto store did a check and stated there is a possible problem with a senor. If the senor got wet, could it even give the computer a good reading? Would it probably give a totally different reading once it dries?
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2003 camry 2.4 ... This is what is happening, cooling fans will not come on except when the AC is turned on and they will stop working when the AC is turned off, otherwise the car will over heat.
This is what I have done...Replaced the fans (because the radiator fan was bad, after hooking them up directly to the battery). I checked all the grounds, including the one under the intake, checked the fuses, checked relays using 12vots to the relay and used a ohm meter to see if it made contact when activated, on the three fan relays. Replaced and tested the new radiator sensor using a pot of water on the cooking stove with a cooking temperature gauge and ohm meter. It tested ok.
Unplug the radiator sensor while the car is running, the fans will come on, but go off as soon as it is plug back in, even when the motor is over heating. Also replaced the thermostat.
What can I do next, before I burn the motor up trying to fix it? Motor just started running rough. Just now pulled up a code of the number three cylinder miss firing
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Once this happens, simply turning the ignition off and then on again seems solves the problem. We've taken the car to two mechanics, one who said the belt was slipping and one who said the belt was fine!
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The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
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I have been hearing a sound on and off now for months that happens right before the car comes to complete stop and sounds like the ABS 'chatter' sound like you hear if they come on in snowy roads. Problem is roads are dry. Literally last 1 second. Will happen when stopping hard or slowly. Maybe once or twice a week. I can't reproduce it happen no matter how hard I try. Brakes are in good shape as are tires and it isn't like I am locking them up or anything. No ABS light or traction control light showing. No codes thrown either.
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My 2012 Camry 2.4L is sometimes dangerously slow when accelerating from a stop. Totally intermittent. I can put my foot in the gas pedal and the car takes its sweet time getting up to speed. Almost like trying to start in 2nd gear in a standard transmission vehicle. I've had the torque converter software patch.
To be honest with you, this is a huge safety issue. Not sure I can trust my car to accelerate. My car has 44k miles and I've done all the scheduled maintenance and run only top tier fuel.
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