Camry 2012+ :: Unused Door Plugs / Wires?
Oct 27, 2013
While I was installing my side mirror turn signals I noticed there were two plugs tucked away in plastic not connected to anything. One is towards the outside of the door. As if it was to be connected to the door handle sensor that comes with the push button start package. The other one was towards the inside of the door, as if it is used with the lane assist or even side mirror turn signals. I never really messed with them as I was following the DYI. I should've checked to see if they were wired to the turn signals so I wouldn't have had to run the wires all the way to the fuse block. Below are the pictures of what I'm talking about.
Front/Inside of door
Rear/Outside of door
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I just installed a pair of extra reverse lights and noticed there are a few (3) unused plugs behind the auxiliary dash button panel.
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From the past couple of days i've been trying to google but nothing. I want to install an amp and sub in my camry I have never done it before so I can run the power and remote wire . My question is how to connect / run the RCA wires.
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I bought new HID bulbs from TRS but how do I reverse polarity while wires in connector. How do I remove it?!
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I got my LED DRL kit today, the harness has 3 wires red(+), black(-), and white(for connect to (+) of headlight so when headlight on the drl will go off). So I will connect black wire to negative of battery or ground, red wire to ACC or ign. So my question is how can I find ACC and how can I connect white wire to (+) of headlights? My led drl kit is similar with the kit in the link: [URL] ...
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i have a 2012 toyota camry with the 10 speaker JBL system, i am trying to find which harness is the one for the speaker wires. i saw on youtube it says there are two sockets for the speaker wires (one for rear and one for the front) i think this is for the regular radio.
I don't see that on my camry. There is one long socket though, but there's TWO wires of red, and two of purple, so I don't know which one to go with.
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Had issues with TBI, rebuilt. Had some starting problems after truck sat for 1 day or more, but would start after a few tries. At one point when it was particularly stubborn, starter lead vibrated off. Once reconnected, truck started, ran fine, but had some electrical humming & radio interference. The starting issue continued with some low rpm stumbling, when driving check engine light would come on at cruising speeds and go off 7-8 seconds after letting off gas.
Had 1 day lest week when I drove a bit more then normal (150+) but ran fine other then engine light. Next day started, but ran horribly rough with violent back fires. At one point stalled and would not restart. It looked and acted like it was flooding itself out and poor spark. Less then a year I replaced cap, rotor and coil. Now I have done all new plugs and wires. Now it appears I have no spark. I had been in the dash messing with the blower motor relay 2 days prior to the stalling and not starting.
Does the ECM control spark? Cant it go bad slowly? And if I had to do alot of cranking of the engine to get it to start, would that have any thing to do with it going bad?
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Today I ran into a problem while i was changing my spark plugs ...two of the plugs were completely covered in oil. I mean oil was literally dripping off those plugs. I have a Passat 1999 2.8L V6. What could be wrong.
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I just bought a 2001 Buick Lesabre and it was driving fine until this morning when it misfired on the highway. I was going about 40 mph and I felt a little jerk in my engine and my CEL started to flash. I pulled it over and got it towed to my house and my code reader says a p0300...which is a random misfire code. So I figured i just need a tune up so I went and bought new plugs and wires and replaced the old ones. And to my surprise...still a noisy shakey rough erratic start and idle. Before this there were no problems the car shifted properly to all gears and picked up and accelerated like a champ there were no obvious issues. Now I cant get it out of my driveway. I was wondering if any other problems could cause this misfire, and how to eliminate problems without buying parts?
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I want to change the spark plugs and wires in my 1996 Ford Escort (1.9 Engine).
The problem is trying to remove the No. 1 spark plug boot and spark plug. Both are located behind the alternator and are difficult to get to. I tried a boot puller but could not get easy access to the boot to pull it off the spark plug. The other three boots and spark plugs are readily accessible.
Is it sufficient to place the dielectric compound just inside the opening of the boot before placing it back on the spark plug, or should it be placed on the metal clip that is ~2-3 inches down inside the boot?
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2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 - 250k miles had the original plugs and wires ....
First things first - I changed them one at a time and confirmed the truck started and ran after each one was changed. I changed all the plugs on the drivers side with no issue. 4,5,6 ... Then I changed plug 3, rear passenger side plug closet to the firewall.
Truck will not start, turns over great, but will not start. I have confirmed I am getting spark. No clue what could have changed, I just pulled out the old plug and wire put in a new one and it wouldn't start.
My father-in-law said if you have spark check fuel. I recall seeing a post about someone breaking a cable for the coil pack but i have checked and i see nothing broken.
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2001 MK4 GTI VR6 put brand new coil pack, wires and plugs in the car because it was misfiring. Was fine for about a week than I got a clogged cat code and could feel the affects. I now have no cat, no resonator, and no muffler. The car is finally driving good and then the check engine light came back. It says only a misfire in Cylinder #3 and when accelerate hard to speed up my check engine light starts to blink until I stop accelerating hard. So my guess is the clogged cat caused that cylinder to misfire but I do not know the actual solution to this. My EVAP hose is semi-pinched and when u squeeze it you can almost kill the engine. The weirdest thing of all is this: driving normal I shift in between 2000 and 3000 RPM and once i get into 4th gear about 2000 RPM......my car starts shaking badly and i feel like my engine is going to fall out. I have searched and the only thing i can think of is a bad injector...
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running aftermarket speaker wires through the door boots? I tried attaching the wire to a cable but the boot is so narrow that only the cable comes out of the other end.
I think the kicker cable im using is thicker than the normal 16 awg so it doesn't work either.
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I'm working on a friends 2003 Explorer. A couple of years ago I had to repair some broken wires in the driver door flex accordion. Now some different wires in that joint flexed and broke. My friend tried to order the whole door wiring harness and it doesn't seem available or is part of a much larger expensive harness. I looked in my Helm manual to find how this harness plugs in and it seems Helm eliminated showing all the plugs involved in a circuit.
My 1999 Helm manual shows a plug by the left kick panel for this harness. The Helm manual also doesn't include door replacement. I thought if it did include that info. it would tell me to either unplug the harness or remove the whole thing out of the door. No luck. Am I going to have to repair his old harness again? One would assume that since this is a chronic Ford failure that someone would make a better replacement solution. I had to do the same repair on another friends 2001 Ford Ranger .
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Where is "Plug A" and "Plug B". Is it near the OBD port or behind the controls for the A/C, etc? I will be splicing in a URD MAF calibrator.
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I was so mad when I saw this scratch. I did not expect any damage to be done on the rear car door. My car was parked on the street so I assume somebody opened their door and hit mine.
Also, how can I fix this? I'm buying the paint from the dealership.
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I have a 2004 camry LE with a stock factory head unit. I recently bought 2 10" Kicker CVR subs with 300w rms each and a 1000w rms class D hifonics amp. I also have a wiring kit and was wondering on how to wire the RCA and the remote wires to my headunit. The ground wire and the power cable are already installed and those were easy. The only thing i do not know how to do is install the RCA cable and remote wire to the headunit. I know it requires an in line converter and i have one,.
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I have a quick question regarding the ability to unlock my SE V6 by just touching the door handle... Might be a dumb one so brace yourselves... If one were to go and say have the passenger of the vehicle tap the passenger side front door handle will that unlock the car in the same regards as touching the drivers door handle? For example if I were putting something in the trunk and had the FOB in my pocket and the passenger wanted to get in but I still had the FOB could they unlock the car the same way I would with the driver's door? My car does not allow the passenger to unlock the doors. Can it be programmed to have this work? Furthermore, is there a way to program the drivers door handle to unlock all the doors instead of just the drivers side door?
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My 2005 Camry LE four cylinder is past due for plug wires. I have tried Googling the correct part number for either NGK or Denso. The newest ones I can find are from 2001. What are the proper part numbers? My local parts store claims NGK and Denso does not make them for my car. I have a hard time believing they don't make plug wires for my car. If nothing else what is the correct Toyota part number?
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I mounted my XM antenna and got in around the window rubber into the trunk. I then pulled the side panel and went in thru what I think is what the dealer told me a pass thru hole. There is a triangle shaped hole that lines up with the center of the rear headrest, I rolled up my wires and put them thru.
I can't feel the wires when I shove my hand thru the crack in the upper/lower rear seat, so I assume that I need to pull the rear seat bottom. I did a search and saw to push in and pull up on the seat base, so far no good. The outer corner of the seat is pretty loose, but nothing gives me access to the wires that I shoved thru.
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I called the only Toyata dealership nearby repeatedly and asked them if they would disable the seatbelt chime, as per the instructions in my car's manual, but they denied knowledge about this.
This morning I decided to cut the two wires to my seatbelt and wrap them with electrical tape. This solved the problem with the seatbelt chime but introduced another problem: I now have an icon on my display that looks like a driver with an airbag, which I assume means that my airbag has been disabled. How can I manually turn the airbag back on?
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