Camry 2012+ :: Timing Chain Rattle After Changing Oil?
Mar 7, 2016
Experiencing a really bad rattle after changing the oil? It sounds like the chain tensioners are losing pressure during the oil change.
View 11 RepliesExperiencing a really bad rattle after changing the oil? It sounds like the chain tensioners are losing pressure during the oil change.
View 11 RepliesI've noticed a noise coming from the engine which sounds to me like the timing chain. Seems like the tensioner is keeping the chain a little loose while the RPM's are low. The rattle doesn't happen all the time; only when I let off the throttle or accelerate keeping the RPM's low.
This is just my guess that it's the timing chain. I had heard a similar rattle in my old I35 and I had to change the timing chain tensioner.
I'm going to check the engine oil level tomorrow morning. This 10,000 mile oil change is really starting to seem like a not so good idea! Right now I'm at 9950..
Yesterday i went to mechanic and changed Timing chain tensioners, with chains and all guides. But still have 2 second voice on startup, once oil pressure lights off everything fine. I paid heavy price on parts and labour but very disappointed after hear same noise again today morning which i was listening from one year purchase of this car... Sonata 3.3l v6 ....
View 4 RepliesLooking for info if the R32 has a timing belt or is it a chain and at how many kilometers shows it be changed.
View 5 RepliesMy neighbor have a neglected 1995 Dodge Ram with the 3.9L V6. This engine is called a "Magnum" but I have to say it is pretty gutless overall. Anyway, it has the famous clatter caused by the timing chain tapping against the timing cover. Every one of these from this time period sounds like this and I understand it is a common problem. Is this a critical problem or not? I understand it can be fixed by replacing it with a newer style timing set with a tensioner. If this won't cause damage, I say leave it alone as the noise is just a minor annoyance. I was just in as far as the water pump and was tempted to tackle it but figured it could wait.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2011 santa fe limited with the 3.5 and 35k miles that has a noisy timing chain rattle upon start up after sitting for a few hours,it's my understanding that the cause is no oil pressure to the tensioner because the oil drains back into the oil pan after sitting for a while. Is there a solution for this situation like a spring loaded tensioner-it seems to me that replacing the tensioner and chain does not solve the problem.
View 32 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 SOHC while the engine is running the left side timing chain rattles. I replaced the timing chain and guides and tensioner, the engine has good oil pressure but the noise is still there.
View 2 RepliesI have a serious suspicion that I have a timing chain rattle. Using a pipe I located the sound to the front of the engine. It ticks much faster than the injectors like more than ten times faster. There are a few different parts involved with the timing chain tension. I have 150k miles on this car.... MB 1995 c220 ....
View 2 RepliesIt is timing chains that are prematurely stretching causing this startup noise. The news is that there is updated parts out there to address this and Ford now has a TSB on this issue formally admitting to it being a common problem. I go over it all in this video. There is also a link to just how it sounds in the description of the video on youtube.
Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost Rattle Upon Start Up- Timing Chain Stretch Issues - YouTube...
I have an 05 5.4 f250 that had a stuck injector. I changed plugs before I realized it was injector. After that the truck had a terrible rattling noise. I ended up changing timing tensioners and guides (guide was broken). Started it up and have the same noise, like timing chain is loose.
What I think happened is gas got into oil when injector was stuck. I had key on to pull codes. Then it lost oil pressure?
Could this cause can phases to go bad? Also can I just install lockouts or do I need to replace phasers as well?
Not sure if there's anything else I should check
What to do if your timing chain tensioner fails and wipes out the valvetrain. Go to www.vwusa.com and click the contact us page. Find the link for "online chat" and open a dialog with a vw rep. Have the vin, milage, purchase date info handy and tell them what happend.
Maybe I just got lucky, but I thought my (second owner) 2012 GTI with 46000 mi was toast, the rep (Bill H) told me not to worry and set me up with a case number and the location of a dearship that will confirm the damage and replace my engine.
My experience is in direct opposition of what I have read on forums when people take their GTI's to the dealership first, then after hagling with the stealership managers for weeks on end finally end up emailing vw corporate (which takes weeks to respond) and finally having the issue resolved.
Of couse, this is only if your car has not had the warranty run out. I thought that being the second owner voided the powertrain warranty...again that was false.
Just purchased a 2002 Camry for my son to drive to school. The car has 275,000 highway miles on it The car was well maintained by the previous owner. I have heard that the timing chain should last about 300,000 miles. However, the owner's manual does not mention any replacement interval. Since the cars mileage is approaching 300k, I'm wondering if the chain needs to be replaced. The engine runs great. However, I do hear a bit of a rattle from the timing chain pully area. I replaced the valve cover gasket and inspected the chain but didn't notice anything unusual. I have mainly driven import cars with timing belts and not sure if this rattling noise is normal for a Toyota with a chain or an early sign of needing replacement.
View 5 RepliesI was thinking about checking out the above vehicle at my local dealer (Chevrolet). They're asking 15.9k and it has 57k miles. I need to know if it has a timing belt or a timing chain and how reliable is the engine/transmission.
View 1 RepliesI recently changed the timing belt on my 2001 Avalon. I am now getting a P1351 code. I removed the timing belt covers and checked the marks, and everything lines up perfectly. I have checked this twice now. To give a little background, before I changed the timing belt, I was getting P0300, P0301, P0303 and P0305 codes along with a P1349. Upon looking up the codes, P0300 indicates a misfire on multiple cylinders, with P0301, P0303 and P0305 indicating misfires on cylinders 1, 3 and 5. The P1349 indicates a variable valve timing issue on bank 1 (cylinders 1, 3 and 5).
I had already changed all 6 coil packs and fuel injectors and spark plugs within the last year (iridium plugs), so I pretty much ruled out any of those. And since the valve timing code was on the same bank as the misfires, I figured that was the cause of the misfires. The oil level was fine, and it hadn't been all that long since I had changed oil. So the next possibility was the solenoid. I changed both of them. Since it was due for the timing belt, I decided to go ahead and change that too. Now, the P0300, P0301, P0303, 0305 and P1349 codes are gone. But after a day or two, the P1351 shows up. As I mentioned earlier, I took the timing belt covers off and checked the belt and alignment marks. All was perfect. I cleared the code. Within a few minutes of driving the code comes back. I checked the belt alignment again. Not loose, and marks line up perfectly. The car runs smooth as can be. I do notice that there is valve clatter on Bank 2. It sounds kind of like a diesel. But it is running smooth. It is also interesting that the original valve timing problem was on Bank 1, but the valve timing problem now is Bank 2. I have only driven it a few miles since the belt change. That's all it took for the code to come up.
I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
View 1 RepliesOn Feb 2015 I had this oil leak developing around the timing chain cover/ oil pressure plug and so i replaced the oil pressure sensor and clean the area and though problem solved...
Fast forward today and the weeping has redeveloped and has gotten larger than last time , its only a weeping issue no visible oil droplet leaks, anyways I took a mirror and when probing around and found the leak origin from the rusty looking timing chain tensioner...that what i think it is.
My question is should I just remove and replace the Rubber O-ring on it or should I just replace the entire timing tensioner unit with a new one, my original timing chain tensioner is sitting at 85k miles. The O-ring is free (i have a kit) and i can do it right now or a New Timing chain tensioner w/ new O-ring is around $20 bucks but i cannot verify the part number ...
I have an '09 Tiguan that recently began to start hard. Two days ago, it refused to start and hasn't started since. It cranks and cranks but to no avail. I disconnected the fuel line at the first hard piece on the front side of the head. The primer pump when activated pours gas out of the line for about 5-8 seconds.
I also pulled the coil packs off and verified there is spark on them. I scanned the car with vcds and came up with nothing other than a couple voltage codes (battery is low at this point from cranking and is bulged and showing yellow in the spot window).
Tonight I borrowed the perfectly fine battery from my B6 and attempted to start it. No codes whatsoever and yet it still refused to run.
I read for a few second at start up ok . Have it checked : [URL] ...
I will be opening up the case in next few days. Chain still on holding by a few teeth. Metal wedge between teeth and chain.
I have a 2006 Honda CRV with 145,000 miles on it. It has been giving me warning lights for about 10 weeks. My mechanic discovered that it is burning oil, which he says all old cars do. But the lights continued. He put the computer on it and says that I need a new timing chain and it will cots $1,100.00. He also says he's not 100% sure that this will stop the lights. I don't want to sink that kind of money into the car if it won't correct the problem. The lights that come on are the check engine light, the VSA light and the triangle light. They do not come on all of the time. Maybe 3 time a week but they go off if I stop the car and re start it.
View 19 Repliesmy car timing chain jumps up and down wen i try to start it.befor that i hard alot of clinking sound coming from the motor now the car wont start
View 7 RepliesI had my 20,000 mile tire rotation and 2nd oil change done at 23,500 miles. Service tech suggested I still return around 25,000 for my last free rotation.
Does it make sense to do that, since I'd only have 1500 miles on the current rotation?