Camry 2012+ :: Speed Odometer Is Faster Than Radar Detector Speed?
Dec 14, 2015
I have a 2012 Camry SE I4. The problem is my car speed odometer is faster than my radar detector speed. I have 2 detectors and they are both not show the same speed compare to the speed odometer. For example, I am going 70mph, the detector reads like 67-68mph. So the speed odometer is off about 2-3mph. I have OEM size on my car. I know the GPS on my detector is more accurate. So my speed odometer has problem?
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I am looking to hardwire my Passport RD, but the manual does not have any info on which fuses are switched and which are constant! It says you have to contact VW to find out. What kind of BS is that? Anyway, has anyone else hardwired their RD, and if so can you post pics? I have seen various GTI installations, but I am wondering if the Golf setup would be different.
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When I beep my horn, my radar detector goes off. Any fix for this beside don't beep the horn or unplug the radar detector? The radar detector is an Escort 8500 X50.
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I want to hook up my radar and laser detector to my moon roof what wires can i use to run it off of? i have a 03 VW Passat 1.8T ....
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If I leave the radar detector on for two or three days and don't drive the car, the battery is so low it will not start the car. It is a 2005 Touareg with 25,000 miles. Can the battery be tested with the terminals under the hood, or does it have to be accessed under the seat?
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Is the drcc on the 2013 full-speed range or is it partial speed range? (will it bring the car to a stop or does it only work above certain speeds?)
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I brought my new 2016 ES350 last month and I love the car
.
One feature I am missing is all speed DRCC. In my car the cruise disengage at 25mph. I see the feature I am looking for is available in some other higher models and the Lexus technology video's says 'when your call is equipped with all speed DRCC'.
I would like to know if it's possible to add this feature in my 2016 ES by any means? I searched and couldn't find any other useful info.
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My 2000 1.8t passat is quiet sick and i am unsure of where to start. here are the symptoms:
- rough idle for a minute or two when started cold
- occasional erratic idle
- low power
- the CEL would blink for 10-20 seconds on startup
- checked and cleared the codes at autozone, and now the car seems to be in limp mode. engine has NO power, cannot get speed above 20, misfires
when you try to go faster
Where are the codes that were stored:
-P1136 Air/fuel metering
- P1128 Air/fuel metering
- P0507 Idle control system, RPM high
- P0300 Random Misfire
- P0301 Cyl. 1 misfire
- P0302 Cyl. 2 misfire
- P03011 Cyl. 4 Misfire
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I recently had my 2002 1.8T in for clutch replacement at the dealer and they came back and said the crankshaft was bad ( the car was occasionally making noise when pushing the clutch in, they thought it was a throwout bearing) I took the car back to bring it back to an indie, and it is loud at idle and while accelerating (sounds like a chattering noise that gets faster as speed increases) It's now sitting in the parking lot. My question is, am I going to have to put in a whole new engine to fix this problem? can just a crankshaft be replaced?
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I just bought an SE Limited, Barcelona RED. I love the car, but I'm curious as to the air vents. I have noticed that even when the fan speed is set to "off", I can still feel some air come out of the vents. If i change the temperature dial to hot, the air the faintly comes out warms up. Is it normal, to have air come out of the vents even when the fan is set to "off"?
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I've read several posts that suggest the EV mode is mostly useless. I disagree. I've noticed that it's useful in gaining speed faster without the ICE, when taking off from a stop. Especially if I'm in traffic and I don't want to annoy drivers behind me.
I've noticed that conditions have to be met in order to do this, such as engine warmed up etc. but I find it very useful, and I am seeing improved MPG when doing this. I've had my 2013 PRius v Two for almost a month now.
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My i40 (18 months old and already on it's 5th problem) has just developed an enormous noise (thud thud thud) when going over 15mph and gets faster with speed. If I go into neutral and turn the engine off at speed it is still there. The crazy thing is as soon as I veer or turn right it stops but when I turn left it does not stop. It's really lot and I can feel it through my feet and on the steering wheel. I am taking it into Hyundai (again) but I'd like to understand possible issues before I go in.
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So, one of the features in late model Toyota nav systems is supposed to be the ability to have the speed limit displayed. I've come across a bug (admittedly, others have too in other vehicle forums) where the speed limit isn't displayed unless you set a destination. After you do, the speed limit for the road you're on will be displayed if you have it turned on in the options menu. If you reach the destination or delete the destination and continue driving, the speed limit will stay on the screen, as it should have been the entire time. Once you shut off the car and turn it back on, the speed information is gone again. Repeat the destination, then delete, and it's back.
I went on their website and reported the bug last Friday and got a call this morning from Toyota. They are having me bring my car in so someone can inspect it next week. The more squeaky wheels...
For reference, I have a 14.5 with the JBL and nav. I don't know for sure if other years are supposed to have this feature. I found the button in the options button at the top left of the nav screen. '15 Highlander people are having the same problem, and I'd guess the '15 Camrys are as well. I'd guess the software driving the units is pretty close to identical.
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I have a 99 tahoe 4x4. It has 220000 miles. I had a wheel hum that got loud when I went faster and the pitch changed with speed. It doesn't seem to matter if I swerve left or right. I took it to a dealer and was told I needed bearings, both wheels. I bought the wheel hub assembly and changed them out. I figured it is just better to change the whole assembly. Well, I still have the hum and it seems to be getting worse. I don't know if the u-joint would do that or if it could be a shaft thing. I can not tell what needs to be fixed but can usually fix them when I know what it is. I don't know if there is a transfer case problem either? I know the shaft spins when I turn the wheel. I assume the lock for 4x4 would be in the transfer case? It seems to be getting worse and I don't want to do any damage. I don't get paid for another week and have to drive 50 miles a day.
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Got a 2004 Chevy Impala with 99K miles. Speedometer seems to be acting sporadically often. Sometimes, it will shift 10 or 20 mph "faster" than actual speed then, sometimes, it goes to the "maximum" speed on the dial and just stays there with the car on or off. Then a few days later, starts working normal again.
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Ford F-150, 1994 : intermittent problem. going down highway, foot on the gas. At times, will press accelerator to go faster but nothing happens, like clog somewhere. Sometimes, with foot still on gas, i will hear a popping sound coming from under the truck, (under the engine?, or drivers seat). Usually 4-5 pops, sometimes none. But after each pop, car accelerates slightly, as if it is a slight clearing, until finally, as if some clog was opened up, the car plunges forward, so i then take my foot off the gas. Sounds like either problem with fuel getting to the engine or a problem with the exhaust.
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I have a 2014 Camry and the other day i went over a 15Mph speed bump while going a little over 20, after the front end went over the bottom of the car BANGED on the bump.. Now I don't know if it was the frame that hit or something on the bottom Like the gas tank and its stressing me out. I checked to see if there are any leaks but didn't see anything.. Is the gas tank vulnerable to things like this or is it high up and protected?
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How "ECO" mode actually works?
When I first got my new 2012 Camry, I noticed ECO light would come on mostly on the highway when I reached certain speeds, and seemed to come on more when I had air conditioning on.
However, now it seems more often the ECO light is on all the time, even when I come to a complete stops. Just wondering if this is normal or do I need to take it in to be checked out or what?
I know ECO mode works with speeds and air conditioning. I do notice when ECO light comes on, the AC doesn't seem to be as cold.... I want my AC working as cool as possible!!! It's constantly over 100 degrees here in San Antonio in the summer.
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I have a 2012 camry se v6, with about 56k miles. It has been lowered on H&R springs since 20k miles. I recently got new rims, but used my old tires. I developed a high speed vibration. I got it aligned twice, and balance twice. But i still can not get rid of this vibration?
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Tire screeching noise (the same noise you might hear when traveling at a high rate of speed while turning; as if it's losing grip) when making U-turns or 70-90 degree turns? I notice this every time I make a U-turn or when I'm in parking lots where a higher radius of turning is involved; both at low speeds (probably around 5 mph)
Tires are the Michelins that come from Toyota. Thread is still at least 90% according to my previous service record about 4 months ago and I don't see any abnormal wear on the tires themselves. On another note, I have these same tires on a 2010 Sienna and they do not make any of the noises as stated above.
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My speed odometer just stopped working along with the trip meter, while I was driving down the Interstate. I noticed no warning signs regarding this failure. Strange all other indications seem to work just fine on my cluster.
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