Camry 2012+ :: Smart Key Push Start Stopped Working - Indicated Dead Battery
Feb 6, 2012
We just got our 2012 Camry XLE about 1 month ago. Today, the smart key push start didn't work; the brake pedal seemed like it was seized, but the green (key) light did manage to come on, indicating it knew the key was there. When I pressed the start, all of the dash lights were flickering, but the car wouldn't start. Was towed to the dealer, who ran a diagnostic that indicated the battery had failed (the options for the diagnostic are pass, charge, and fail). They installed a new battery and it seems fine.
One of the doors wasn't completely closed overnight - would this have caused the battery to be done? I could see if it caused the battery to drain, requiring a boost / charge.
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A purchased a new 12 volt battery at the dealer. I was getting weird warning lights, so I had them run diagnostics. They said all the codes were voltage and I needed a new battery. Shortly after this I noticed the Smart Key no longer opened and closed the doors.
The car starts ok.
My question is this, could the changing of the battery have caused this? I tried searching for the answer BUT all answers refereed to adding a new smart key purchased on Ebay.
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I heard a humming (motor) sound coming from my trunk area today. Car was off since previous evening. Sounded like maybe electric fuel pump? It stopped when I pressed smart key button and is not doing it now, but......
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I have a 2006 Lexus GS 300 and about two weeks ago the key fob stopped working. I replaced two new batteries and nothing. I read up and found that if you place the fob over the start button and wait for the green light it would start. I have been starting the car like that ever since. Now here is the issue. Yesterday I went out to eat and when I was about to leave it would not start with the key over the button. I did not get a green light, nothing. after trying for about 10 minutes I got it to turn on the electrical system (basically it acted like it started but didn't) all the lights turned on and I saw the Check complete on the dash but the engine did not crank or start at all. Finally I disconnected the battery for 5 minutes and connected it again and was able to get it to start and drive home, now back to the same problem.
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I have a 2009 XLE Camry which has been running smoothly for years. I failed to replace my old battery on-time and my drained battery surprised me on Christmas morning. I tried to jump-start it, long story short but something went wrong during jump-start and I lost all the lights on my dash (I can't say I didn't cross the cables but I'm pretty sure I was fully awake that morning).
I bought a new battery and replaced the old one, lights on dash are back on, the engine starts but there is no acceleration at all, the car just moves forward on D and backwards on R but no acceleration on gas pedal. I did some research and figured I might have blown a fuse, I opened my fuse box under my hood and found out my 10 Amp ETCS fuse is blown. I changed the fuse and now acceleration is back, I can drive the car but I get this 'VSC System Check' error on my dash, the 'Check Engine' light is also on and the AC fan is not working.
Could it be another blown fuse? Is this something I can fix by myself?
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While working on diagnosing my center console issue last night, my engine refused to start & I am completely lost as to what the issue is.
I hear a buzzing sound when I hit the brakes and push the button to start.
But all my headlights lights & interior electronics work fine.
I am so irritated as this happens on the SATURDAY evening and everywhere is closed on Sunday; hence I can't get the car serviced.
This is a brand new car w/ less than 2600 miles on it.
YouTube ....
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I had left my car for about 30 hours without driving, which I've done before all winter with no issues. Went to start it up yesterday morning to head out and when the key FOB failed to open the door, I knew I was in trouble.
I unlocked the door manually, and put the key in to start it up and the Treg was completely dead and the key wouldn't release from the ignition. After a call to VW roadside assistance, and a jump start, it started right up and I dropped it off at the dealer for them to look at.
The service report says "diag and found low state of charge. charged battery and found passes tests. performed TSB 27-05-01 and cleaned ground point for battery. rechecked OK"
This is a V6 Touareg (there is a similar TSB I understand for V8s).
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My battery was dead. Jumped the battery but hooked up cables wrong. Put car on battery charger.
Car has power now. Turns over but does not start. Seems like no power to engine. Engine light is on.
Is there a fuse that needs to be fixed?
2007 Camry LE with 4 cyl.
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I have a 2007 Prius 2, the key will not open the doors, so I went to the store replaced the remote battery but it is still not working. The light on the remote lights up as usual. I can get in using the small metal key, the car starts and everything seem to be working fine with the smart key plugged in. The 12v battery seems to be fine as all the lights work when the car is off. What this might be?
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My wife left the lights on in the 2001 Camry and completely draining the battery. I tried to jump her but the car would not start (turns over great). Also the electrical system was strange in that the lights would not go off and other electrical items did not function. I disconnected the battery and fully recharged it and put it back on. I noticed that the "ALT" (100A) fusible link was blown and replaced it. Car still will not start (turns over great). The electrical problems appear fixed however the radio does not work. I tried to read the codes on the ODB and got "ERR". I checked all other fuses and they are good. I checked the pin-out voltage on the ODB port and was reading ~11.5V. I am wondering if I missed something like is the ECM bad? I can replace this myself for $150, but if I have it towed to a dealer it will cost me $800. Is there a way I can be sure that the ECM is bad, also are there other things to check that I may have missed. Also, when I turn the key to the "on" position, but do not start the car, the "Check engine" light does not illuminate.
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I am not sure if I need a new fob.
My smart key quit working. I have replaced the battery, and checked the button under the steering wheel. The little red light on the fob does not blink or light up when I push it. I think I recall this light coming on when a button is pushed.
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My 2012 Camry SE V6 has the smart key system and push button start. When I start the car, how can I lock it from the outside with the smart key on my person, to let it warm up? Or is the only option to use the manual lock/unlock buttons on the armrest to lock it and then close the door?
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I contacted the factory and also a couple dealers. Officially, Toyota only offers the FOB and a valet key for the 2015 Camry LE w/o Smart Key. But I want a small, relatively inexpensive, water resistant, transponder key that looks like the valet key, but also opens the glove box.
My understanding is that the 2015 Camry and the 2013-2014 Rav4 both use the new "H" transponder keys.
are all Toyota "H" key blanks (ones w/o buttons at least) interchangeable?
Specifically, would the OEM "89785-0D170" "H" transponder key which I found online for the 2014 Rav4 work for the 2015 Camry too?
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I just bought a 2012 toyota camry se with smart key. The trunk button on the remote opens the trunk, but the smart key button on the trunk lid does not open the trunk. I found a brown module unplugged the the left of the seat release handles in the trunk, I checked the wiring to the switch on the trunk lid.
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My "Smart Master Key (type C)" falls apart too easily. I had the smart key together with my house keys, and so far I had to put it together twice. The last time all the little keys and one of the plastic cover fell down as I pulled it the key from its place on the steering wheel.
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I have a Camry at 120K now. Front brake pads was placed at 85K and was told by the maintenance person at that time that brake rotors couldn't be resurfaced since they were close to the minimum thickness.
Braking seems still fine these days. I don't hear any high-pitched noise or feel obvious vibration/pulsation when the brake is applied. The brake pads are still within a good range of thickness as the last check was made a couple of months ago.
But the brake pedal is softer than before so that now I have push harder to get car stopped. It that a warning sign which indicates it is time to replace the brakes rotors and pads?
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My 1999 Camry has a starting issue. Sometimes, but not always, when I turn the key to start the car, nothing happens - no clicking, nothing. When I try again, immediately, the car starts up. This has been going on for about a week. Battery? Starter? Or?
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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2012 Azera with 29000 on the clock. Dealer replaced the battery last July. I am now having problems again with the battery going dead. Taking it back to dealer on Tuesday. I thought it was the 90evening it was only around 80 and the battery was dead again.
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I've been noticing severe power loss lately . I know the 12 camry i4 has a bit of lag when acceleration but it's a bit worse now . I do have weapon r header , injen intake and magna flow muffler. I've cleaned the intake filter but sometimes the car feels as though it doesn't want to go then it does. I have to push the pedal down hard . I also have res delete.
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I need to get the push start button out so I can clean the electrical contacts. I've seen a DIY elsewhere online but it was for a push start button located in the steering column.
Does this involve removing the entire center console, or possibly just the shift boot and ring? It's a Tiptronic 4motion.
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