Camry :: 2012 - Slow Responsive Throttle When Making Right Turns
Jun 28, 2014
Have a 2012 Camry 4cyl. LE, auto trans. This is especially noticeable when making right turns on city streets, and occasionally on left turns. When trying to accelerate back up to speed, it takes a second or two to begin to speed up, sometimes shifting down and then accelerating. What possible causes for this strange phenomenon? Just after buying it (used, very low mileage, 4000miles). I took it to the dealer, they said that that is normal.
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Nearly new Camry with 9,000 miles. When trying to get back up to speed after making right or left turns, there is a definite hesitation before accelerating. No hesitation when accelerating from a dead stop. Also transmission kicks down at very small hills/grades where if not on cruise control, it would not need to "kick down" to maintain speed. This is a 4 cylinder engine and provides adequate power when not running in "cruise". I suppose this is just the nature of the breed. Except for these two small problems, it is a fine comfortable car.
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I just had a rental for the new corolla, and noticed that the moonroof rolls out immediately after you press the button.
On my 2012 camry, i would have to hold the button for it to roll out, otherwise more often than so, i hold the button and it takes a while to act on that i press the button. (or doesn't even roll)
This would be covered under warranty right?
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My truck has grinding noises when i am making turns from a stop or at slow speeds. Also my 4x4 dash light keeps flashing several times both when I am sitting still and when driving. Neither my 4x4 auto or 4x4 high work but the low will work. Trying to pinpoint where I should look to fix them. I did replace the 4x4 control mod as an attempt to fix this.
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I have a 2002 Subaru legacy wagon, 185k miles, 5 speed manual, thumping noise when making sharp turns at slow speed, happens only after I drive over about 10 miles, does not happen after the car sits for any length of time.
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My wife informed me about a noise coming from the chassis of her truck.
2007 Explorer XLT 4x4, 4.0 OHV, AT, 89,000 miles on the odometer.
We took the truck to dinner last night so I could investigate the problem. This occurs while only making left hand turns at slow speed.
There is a definite clunk sound AND feel. It actually sounds and feels like we are driving over a loose manhole cover, and IT DOES feel like metal to metal contact on the driverʻs sids of the truck.
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I got a heat shield that just will not stop causing me grief. When I installed the headers and pipes I had a heat shield that was too close to the passenger side pipes. I bent it down some to clear the pipe and got rid of a nasty metallic sound I had on the throttle and making left hand turns. Well that little sound returned last week and I crawled under and looked and sure enough the heat shield was touching again.
Who knows why maybe a bit a spring sag. So yesterday I bent it down a little more. Today I start getting a nasty clunk on dips and especially when on a bump why turning. I crawl under there too look and find the same heat shield now has a huge gouge on the under side of it where the leaf spring near the rear bushing is smacking it. I'm sure Ford put it there for a good reason so hate to remove it.
First pic of the hacked up bend job I put on it.
Second pic of the gouge in the bottom of it where it's hitting.
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2004 camry 4 cyl. turns over slow but starts. I checked battery voltage (car not running) it is 12.6 volts. when cranking in dropped to 6.??. The post terminals and cables looked ok but I did not disconnect or remove them to check. How can I verify if it is a bad battery or a bad starter.
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I have purchased a 2012 Elantra for my wife and I have noticed a fairly significant vibration/shaking when making hard right turns. It is most noticeable during medium to hard sweeping right turns at speeds between 30-45 mph. Strangely enough I have no left turn issues at all and do not notice any vibrations at or above highway speeds. We did hit a pothole on the right side with both front and rear tires making impact a few months ago around 55mph but there is no noticeable wheel or tire damage. I did take the car to a Hyundai dealership after noticing this issue and they did not have any issues or find anything wrong (just my luck). I am thinking of rotating the tires to the other side to see if anything changes. Also I should add I am sure this is not an ABS or stability control issue because I can hit the same corner in the opposite direction at greater speeds without any issues.
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Is it possible for the IS200t brakes to malfunction? My car is only 1600 miles and the brake doesn't feel responsive/snappy. It feels like the car is very heavy to brake anywhere from 10 - 40 mph. I have to step on the brake pedal deep to feel the brakes. I don't feel that pump (I think it's called hydralics) feel when I step on the brakes. Even at 20mphs, the braking doesn't feel sensitive. Is it possible for some brake parts to break. I think one time when I was going down hill, I stepped on it really hard to stop at the bottom at the stop light and it made some weird clamping noise.
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Its a 2006 Toyota Camry 2.4l.. its been sitting for about 4 weeks now which has given me and her some personal time...I cant get it to run without me covering the intake hole. Last night my girlfriend and I were tinkering with it... before I sprayed carb cleaner and sealed the hole off with my hand she pressed the gas and I heard a grinding noise. So I told her to pump the gas with the ignition on and the gas peddles and the grinding noise was synchronized in timing. I turn the ignition off and press gas nothing... I'm guessing that's because its a fuel injected vehicle and everything is electronic (ECM) also I noticed when you cycle key from on to off it makes that noise also... won't start and I need my car.
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I have a 2012 Camry SE and lately on low throttle the car vibrates or shudders like if in driving thru a rough road and tires are good used a different set and still the same result.
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I have a 2012 Camnry I4 and want to clean the throttle body.
Is this throtte the type that I can manualy open valve by hand without damage, or does the pedal need to be pushed to open, to prevent computer or throttle timing issues?
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A while ago I got my oil changed at a Midas location and it was not for a couple months later when I got my oil changed again that Midas cross threaded the oil plug. So now I've got a slow leak and I was told that I'm going to have to replace the oil pan the next time I get an oil change.
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My 2012 Camry 2.4L is sometimes dangerously slow when accelerating from a stop. Totally intermittent. I can put my foot in the gas pedal and the car takes its sweet time getting up to speed. Almost like trying to start in 2nd gear in a standard transmission vehicle. I've had the torque converter software patch.
To be honest with you, this is a huge safety issue. Not sure I can trust my car to accelerate. My car has 44k miles and I've done all the scheduled maintenance and run only top tier fuel.
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The oil light on my 2015 Camry LE turns off immediately after I crank the engine, and half a second later goes back on again for less than a second. I showed this to the dealer and they said it is normal; however none of my other cars did that. Perhaps the factory filter is bad and needs to be replaced? It does it only if the car sits for a while. If I turn the engine off for 10 minutes and turn it back on it does not do it, which tells me that perhaps anti-drain valve is bad...
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Experience a strong smell when WOT? Seems like every time I put my foot down hard through a couple of gears it stinks for a few minutes. The car only has 28000km, fresh oil change and running great.
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I have noticed that my car occasionally seems to take off extremely slow from a dead stop? It almost seems as if the traction control is engaging, but I am not taking off fast, and it has also happened at low speeds (10-20 mph)???? It feels like I'm towing a damn boat behind me......
The TSB for the transmission was performed last year sometime.
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I bought my car in 2012. Lets say I have my air on completely custom settings (temp, fan speed, mode). When I press the Auto button the fan speed automatically adjusts based on the temperature I have set, the mode always forces to feet only (sometimes feet and defroster) and the A/C light always comes on.
The only way to keep it in Auto mode while turning the A/C button off is to do the following: Press the Auto button, then press the A/C button to turn it off.
I am just trying to figure out the logic behind why Toyota would force the A/C light every single time the Auto button is pressed, even when it is 5 degrees outside.
So am I correct in turning the A/C light off when in Auto mode and using heat only or does the A/C light come on for a reason? Is it actually running the A/C compressor even in the winter?
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I have a 2012 Toyota Camry SE I4 with about 34,500 miles. I have noticed that over the past 2 weeks, the car make a kind of slight humming noise only for a second. It only happens first thing in the morning after the first start of the day. Its not right away, it happens after I pull out of the driveway, and as I drive away it happens at about 10 mph. The noise will not happen till the following day after a cold start. I have tried to pinpoint the sound and it doesn't matter how long I let the car warm up and it doesn't matter if the heater is running or not. It will still make the noise. The car runs good other than this noise.
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I have the SE model and the only button i have is the traction control on/off button. I looked through the menu in the gauge cluster and I come across a "Eco mode indicator" on/off option. I turned it on and now the eco mode light engages when i drive.... I also noticed that the throttle response has been way numbed down and changes gears late. So basically the "indicator light" options is ACTUALLY the "eco mode".... why don't we have a button for this?
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