Whats the right way to shift the car, when I reverse the car and want to change it drive D, should car be at complete stop OR we can still change it from R to P with with car slowly moving back. I usually apply brake, and let it complete stop, then change the gear shifter. But yesterday I was in hurry and didn't wait for the stop, car was very slow, but I didn't notice any jerks or anything wrong with it.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2012 Passat SE (5cyl) automatic with 25k miles on it. I have noticed that when i put my car into gear (reverse or drive) that my car jumps with a little burst of speed (while I am easing off the brake), I don't have the slightest clue of what it could be, or if that's normal or not as i purchased the car less than 3 weeks ago.
View 3 Replies2002 Camry, Automatic Transmission
Have an occasional problem. When shifting from park to drive/reverse, I occasionally get a loud, brief (1 -2 seconds) rattling noise from the engine compartment. It's my daughter's car so not sure yet if this is a cold start only issue or if present after car has been driven, then stopped and re-started. The problem does only occur occasionally. Where to start troubleshooting? I've looked for loose external pasts with nothing found.
A coworker has asked me to take a look at their 2013 Camry LE, 48,000 miles. It has a quite annoying vibration at idle and only when in reverse or drive. AC is not running this time of year, but does get worse if the compressor is turned on.
I'd like to think the trans and engine mounts are fine. It does not have any noticeable torque converter shudder. I have cleaned the throttle body, not that dirty, but not much improvement.
I suggested that he try different brands and grades of gas to see if matters improved at all - Shell 89 seems to be a slight improvement over what is normally used (just 87 from Costco, Sunoco, or Hess), but nothing substantial.
Spark plug change, decarbonizing top end?
Spark plugs look about like I'd expect an iridium plug to at these miles - no signs of oil burning, not tons of carbon, etc. I didn't get a real good look at the piston tops.
Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
View 2 RepliesTwo months and 2500 miles on my GTI and I feel like I finally know what the DSG is going to do most of the time. Driving with a cold tranny? Expect some delayed clutch takeup and very noticeable downshifting. Downshifting to pass? Goose the throttle a bit before hand to let the car know what you want. Shifting from reverse to drive? Better come to a full stop. EXCEPT! My DSG will still seemingly stall during this transition roughly 1 out of 3 times. I cannot find any rhyme or reason to it and now basically have to sit stopped in N for a good 3-5 seconds before shifting into D to keep the car from doing that quick surge and stop maneuver. I feel like it might be something with the timing of when I press or release the brake. I love every other aspect of the car which is why it's so annoying having to explain to passengers why the transmission in my 30 thousand dollar hatchback just fell on its face.
View 8 Replies2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
I bought my '07 Passat 2.0T Wagon as a CPOVW 6 weeks ago. It had 4700 miles on it. I complained about the transmission having a delayed engagement when shifting into reverse and drive. (it drives normally however with positive shifts and is very enjoyable) I was told it was normal and not to worry. (could it be designed-in to soften the engagement?).
This week I noticed a light "thunk" in the right front when re-applying power while coasting below 40 MPH. I never noticed it before but I usually strive for smooth driving so that may be why. I've had other Aisin Warners but they were in Volvos. I got out of a '99 Volvo Cross Country because I didn't trust the driveline. Am I going down the same road?
I have a 94 E350 with the 460 and the E4OD trans. that has only 30K on it.
Last weekend I took it on a 250 mile trip (one way) and it ran beautiful until the final steep hill to our vacation house. It started vibrating when it went to down shift and wouldn't pick up any speed, the OD off light was blinking. When I pushed the OD button and it cleared right up. Ran beautiful until I tried to climb that same hill again (same thing happened). It showed the same symptom when I tried to back up a steep driveway during the same trip.
Now it no longer does the vibrating but now has harsh/firm up shifts. Downshifts are smooth though, but shifting into reverse and drive are bit clunky too.
The codes I pulled were KOEO 212 and 668. After I erased the codes the 668 didn't come back. But I did change the MLPS to the new updated one from Ford and its still doing it.
I also found the 40amp mega fuse under the hood was blown too, related? Could a 1/2 qt over filled trans. cause this now too? In NH I added some fluid thinking it was low because I could not get a clear reading on the dipstick but I think the level was up there.
Recently my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD (~86k miles) has started to give a sort of hard thump when shifting from reverse into drive. It's fine going into any other gears and it shifts up and down normally. If I shift from reverse to neutral and then to drive it's fine.
I changed the transmission fluid when we first got the car at 40K miles with Hyundai Liquid Unobtanium SPiii fluid and again at 80k miles with Valvoline's SPiii offering. I just checked the transmission fluid level and it's within the normal range.
I can't tell if this is just drive-line slop or something else inside the tranny.
I recently leased a 2013 RX 350 and started hearing a weird loud noise almost in the first week itself. It seems to happen whenever I shift the gears from Reverse to Drive. The loud noise comes from the back of the car and anyone sitting in the car (speakers turned off) can hear/feel it. It seems to be worse in the morning (or when the engine is cold).
I took it to the lexus service center and the person told me something about differential pressure, which I really didn't understand:-). However, he said nothing can be done and its not a safety issue and sent me back home without any fix. I have driven many cars in my life so far and never ever came across something like this. Is it something normal at all?
So here in Wisconsin for the last two weeks we have had nothing but ice. That being said, I have a '96 ranger 3.0L, automatic transmission, 4x4. 4 wheel is inoperable at the moment, that's a different story. Here's my question: with the ice, there has been a lot of tire spinning at high RPM's, the other day, I was again stuck on the ice and rocked back and forth had some pushers, thought we were getting somewhere but I went to shift gears and all of a sudden had nothing. No Reverse, Drive, OD, L, 2. Did I blow my tranny? There was no noise or grinding, but the OD light seems to blink. Is there something I can check or look at?
View 4 RepliesI continuously read that people with 6.2 F250s averaging 13 mpg or so in a combination city/highway driving. This 2014 4x4 barely has enough power to move itself (honestly, I'd rather have my Ram 1500 back) and barely gets 10mpg. Basically have to give it about half-pedal to even get up to freeway speed and floor it if i want to pass anything. Is it just that much of a POS or does this not sound right? Other than a massive "clunk" sound when shifting from reverse to drive or vice versa, no indication of any problems.
View 14 RepliesI have a Prius v 2012. At about 3,000 it began intermittantly going into reverse when I put it in drive. The dealership has not been able to duplicate the problem. Yesterday, I picked it up at the Dealership and it happened when I started the car. I got a technician to come out just in case it happened again. He said it was the way I was shifting. I told him, if that was the case it would do it all the time, but it doesn't. Besides, there are no instructions for shifting a certain way.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 Camry 4cyl with and Automatic Transmission. 193,xxx miles. I bought the car with 165,xxx miles. From time to time the transmission would take a little longer than normal to shift from 1-2 or 2-3. It has also had an issue with locking up the torque converter at speeds around 50 MPH which seems to bog the engine some. An adjustment of the foot on the gas pedal fixed both of these problems. (I just let up a little or pressed a little harder)
Well on friday it did something weird. It now clunks very hard when shifting into reverse. Also when in drive it seems to be in 3rd gear. The engine revs very high before the car starts moving but then it seems to run fine once moving and up to road speed.
I have heard that the Transmission may be controlled by its own Computer unit. Is that true? How do I get codes from it?
I have run my scan tool through the OBDII port and get no codes at all.
I just started hearing a loud click when I change from park to reverse and from reverse to drive. If I keep moving the knob between those three spots with my foot on the brake and hand brake off, I hear a loud click at each spot. Hard to describe... anyway, this only happens when I first start the car, by the time I get to work if I try doing that when I park there is no loud click sound. The thing is, I don't know if this was always happening and I just noticed it now, or if it just started.
View 14 RepliesI have an Elantra 2012 sedan GL and last year i tried installing HID's. It worked for a whole but then it stopped after. I learned that it wasn't getting enough power so then yesterday I bought a wiring kit to be able to wire my HID to tap to the battery to get more power. Everything was fine till I got to work but when I had to leave work., there was an issue. Whenever i switch the gear from park to drive or reverse or neutral. My car seems to jerk. And when I'm driving and it changes gears, it also jerks. Kind of the same thing how if your driving a manual car and you change gears wrong. This happens when my lights are off. But when i turn them on it then stops. And when i turn it back of it doesn't do it anymore.
View 5 RepliesFor a few months now I have been hearing a tap clunk type noise coming from under the car when I shift the auto trans into drive and reverse. Also sometimes when the car is slowing when driving I hear the tap sound as it shifts into first. I drove in by my local dealer and they listened to it and said Elantra transmissions can get noisy there is nothing wrong. They told me I have plenty of Warranty left so if something happens I will be covered.
View 2 RepliesI replaced the front hubs and bearings on my brothers 2002 Camry today. He drove less than a block and developed awful grinding noise and it won't move in reverse or drive. It rolls when I put it in park. I had to pull it back into my shop. Is it possible the inner CV came loose and i didn't realize it? It all seemed to go back together fine. The new CV axle nuts were quite tight and slow to put on with my impact gun.
What else could possible go kaput when I re & re hub/bearings? And what a long ugly job to replace those bearings. Don't even think about doing this without a good hydraulic press. Up to the point of getting knuckle off, it was easy job.
Have been chasing a rattling noise for a while on a 2002 Camry 4 cyl AT.
Here's a brief video: [URL] .....
The conditions when the noise appears are as follows:
Start car, turn AC on, place into drive/reverse. Rattle is present initially, then goes away after driving a bit.
The noise seems to be worse after the car has been sitting overnight.
If car is started and placed in drive/reverse without turning on the AC, then the noise is not present.
If the car is started and the AC turned on and the car is in park/neutral, then the noise is not present.
The tensioner pulley seems to be moving quite a bit in the video. Is this normal?
I've noticed my Camry hesitating shifting lately. My initial thought was perhaps my transmission fluid was low. But after further review of some articles I don't believe that's it. I saw one mention of the computer and maybe having the transmission fluid levels adjusted?
View 6 Replies