I just wanted to see if others are experiencing a hard kinda jerky shift from 4th to 5th around 40mph while in Drive. It's not super bad but noticeable when light on the accelerator. The shift to 5th drops engine speed to around 1100rpm.
View 11 RepliesFor a few months now I have been hearing a tap clunk type noise coming from under the car when I shift the auto trans into drive and reverse. Also sometimes when the car is slowing when driving I hear the tap sound as it shifts into first. I drove in by my local dealer and they listened to it and said Elantra transmissions can get noisy there is nothing wrong. They told me I have plenty of Warranty left so if something happens I will be covered.
View 2 RepliesI had something unusual happen recently... I backed out the driveway and went to put the car in drive and found the shift lever harder to move than normal and it wouldn't go into drive. It would go into park and reverse easily enough. After some manipulation it went into drive and ran with no problems to my destination. At first, I thought something fell down into the mechanism and was causing it to bind. AND of course, when I showed it to a pal, I could not recreate the issue. The next morning it worked fine, but it happened again later in the day, but it took much longer to get it into drive.
On the way home, the check engine and traction control lights both came on. I dropped it off at my mechanics and he diagnosed error code C1201 P0705 and claims that the remote starter (shop installed after market) is interfering with the transmission control module. I contacted the installer of the starter and he says it is not possible, but I know something is wrong... Now, I can't get it to act up and the idiot lights are gone. I need to rely on my vehicle and can't afford to be stranded somewhere. I feel it would be pointless to take the car to the installer, since the warning lights are gone and there are no shifting issues now.
When I come to traffic and slow down, I have this jerky feeling when I'm coming to a stop. It's not from my brake or transition from gear changing. It's repetition of jerky feeling, not like one jerk from second to first gear.
For example, I'm in my first gear and stopped on the road. If I release the brake pedal and do NOT press gas, my car slowly moves forward with this jerky pulsation. It also makes noise (well.. I can hear it through my exhaust) while it moves. It feels like car is about to move, then stops, then moves, then stops.... I don't really get this when I apply gas.
I recently bought a 2014 4-cylinder SE, sight unseen. I test drove another 4-cylinder SE that I recall idled smoothly before I bought mine - or at least I did not notice it, but this one was a trade from another lot and had all of the options that I wanted.
So - is it "normal" for the 4-cylinder Camrys to idle very rough with or without the A/C on, and in drive? I have tried a tank of 87, and a tank of 93 octane. Very small difference in smoothness on 93 octane, but I'd prefer not to have to run that. I owned a 4-cylinder 2008 Chevrolet Malibu before this car, and it idled much smoother than this Camry.
I also have a weird grind that sounds like the starter isn't disengaging when I start the car in the mornings. Push-button start on my car, so it isn't me turning the key too long or anything of that sort.
Whats the right way to shift the car, when I reverse the car and want to change it drive D, should car be at complete stop OR we can still change it from R to P with with car slowly moving back. I usually apply brake, and let it complete stop, then change the gear shifter. But yesterday I was in hurry and didn't wait for the stop, car was very slow, but I didn't notice any jerks or anything wrong with it.
View 5 RepliesSo I recently purchased a 2007 LS460 with 115k on it. I've noticed that about a month ago the car started driving pretty weird. The transmission would shift hard and jerky almost through the first 3 gears, like driving a manual.
Also, when I tried to floor the car from maybe 40-50mph, the rpm would shoot up only 500 then downshift and accelerate causing a violent jerk. It feels like if I was driving at 50mph on 8th gear, when I floored it the car would feel like it downshifted to 7th gear for merely less than a second and downshifted again to 4th gear causing the car to jerk hard.
This is the car's history:
- Reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery (no luck)
- Auto transmission software has been updated at the dealer
- Valve springs recall has been completed
- Head covers has been changed
- Engine module has been reprogrammed by the dealer at 70k miles
- Trans fluid has been changed at 70k miles according to lexus.com service record
So at this point I really don't know what could cause this problem anymore, maybe it could be the transmission fluid?
My 2009 Accent started doing the Hard/Jerky shift problem that I seen discussed in the forums. Had check engine light, scanning showed a code P0717. My question is, which sensor should install?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2012 camry se i4 (29k miles). So, when i shift to R the car start vibrates, i can feel it when i hold the steering wheel. Also, something at the stop sign or red light, i can feel the car vibrates. I live in MN, the weather is really cold and a lot of snow now. Is that why?
View 6 RepliesMy lighting on the shift console (P,N,R, D) is really dim.
Can it be replaced with low wattage LEDS?
AND, is that part of the console difficult to R&R, or a major disassembly?
2012 Camry LE I4, 4000 miles, 5 1/2 months old.
When cold after first starting, there's a very noticeable hesitation for a second or two when it makes the 5-6 shift at around 35 mph. I'm fairly sure it's 5-6 because if I hold it in 5th, it doesn't happen till I upshift to 6th. It almost seems like it's some kind of "in between" gears friction, like it hasn't quite let go of 5th but it's already started going into 6th. It's way less noticeable when the engine's warm.
The other issue is a bit of surge and hesitation in cruise control. It won't let you engage CC below a certain speed, around 25 mph. Faster than that, CC can be engaged, and I assume that if it's programmed to let you engage at that speed it should work properly. I have a daily drive on long stretch with a 35 mph speed limit, and I engage the CC. I can feel the engine surge and back off, surge and back off the entire time. OTOH, I can hold it at 35 with my foot, and no surging. I assume it's the interaction of the CC and the auto trans.
Is it worth even mentioning these issues to the dealer? In the past, I've had cars in for subtle problems like this, and they've first tried to persuade me that it's normal, then if I persisted, spent a fair amount of time with the car and didn't find anything. (I'm not referring to any specific dealer here). I don't want to waste a lot of time with the dealer for no results.
After fixing a misfire on cylinder 4 (bad plug) I find two other problems on a 2005 Camry I bought recently. It has 88k miles (bought at 85k) has new plugs, air filter, and oil changed recently.
When I start the car in the morning a puff of blueish smoke comes out and doesn't come back until it gets started again after getting cold. Has a strange chemical smell. Also when it starts it shoots up to 2k RPMs and slowly goes down to a notch below 1k after a minute or two.
The other thing is that when cruising at around 40MPH and just holding that speed the car will start to vibrate intermittently. Not just the steering wheel or anything, it's felt throughout the car. I also notice that the RPMs fluctuate slightly, just a notch up and down as the vibrations come and go. If I let go of the gas it stops, if I accelerate, it stops.
A coworker has asked me to take a look at their 2013 Camry LE, 48,000 miles. It has a quite annoying vibration at idle and only when in reverse or drive. AC is not running this time of year, but does get worse if the compressor is turned on.
I'd like to think the trans and engine mounts are fine. It does not have any noticeable torque converter shudder. I have cleaned the throttle body, not that dirty, but not much improvement.
I suggested that he try different brands and grades of gas to see if matters improved at all - Shell 89 seems to be a slight improvement over what is normally used (just 87 from Costco, Sunoco, or Hess), but nothing substantial.
Spark plug change, decarbonizing top end?
Spark plugs look about like I'd expect an iridium plug to at these miles - no signs of oil burning, not tons of carbon, etc. I didn't get a real good look at the piston tops.
I am planning to buy this 2012 Camry LE (38k), automatic, I am on the test run and realized that the car's shifting from park to reverse is harder than shifting from reverse to drive. What I mean is, it is really hard to move the selector from Park to Reverse.
View 6 RepliesOne day I was driving my truck 96 f150 4x4 Eddie Bauer edition and the over drive light started flashing and the truck got jerky going up hills. I got home and hooked my code reader up and (p0708) it said transmission range sensor. I replaced that the next day and drove it around town for about 30 minutes and parked it all seemed to good. But the very next day I started down the road and the transmission was slipping very bad after I turned around after a few hundred feet I barley made it back to my house. I checked my transmission fluid it's full and doesn't smell burnt or anything, I double checked the alignment on the neutral safety switch I just installed and it still in line. So I'm thinking my transmission is going out...
View 4 RepliesLast summer the CD drive quit: it's impossible to insert a disk in, although drive was empty. I took it to the dealership and they fixed it allegedly by doing some "reset". Now the issue comes back again. Should I demand replacement of the whole radio? I don't like them just keep resetting it.
View 5 RepliesLong story, but I bought a 2007 Prius with 73K miles on it. Now I'm at 93K miles, and I think it may be more jerky than when I got it when I shift the tranny into "brake" mode.
I don't know if the fluid has ever been changed on it, and I intend to change it very soon now. Am I in a pickle? Or should this transmission be fine if the fluid hasn't been changed for 93K miles?
I'm a new member but my rear deck lid rattles in my car and I'm not sure what it is? I've taken it once already to the dealer and it's happening again !! Every time I drive on bumpy roads it seem the trunk lid starts to rattle..
View 6 RepliesSo I've got 8400 miles on my TDI, and for quite some time now, I've been intermittently noticing the car somewhat jerky while driving. Jerky to a small extent, like the DSG can't make up it's mind as to the gear. I could be driving home at 45 or so, and I'll randomly feel a slight bump through the pedal when I'm on a flat road. I've gotten this quite a bit. Obviously I expect to feel the DSG shifting when I'm flat out gunning it, but not when I'm maintaining a speed and should hypothetically be in the same gear that entire time.
View 16 RepliesMy 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6. 37,500 miles. Occasionally when I'm parked shifting down to reverse it's so tight/put effort to shift & it literally thumps the entire car.. I heard to put the E-BRAKE/PARKING BRAKE down BEFORE shifting it to park & it worked but occasionally even with the E-BRAKE/PARKING BRAKE it still jerks the entire car going from PARK to REVERSE.
Also going from REVERSE to NEUTRAL it gives off a little vibration underneath me ALL THE TIME going from REVERSE to NEUTRAL.. I know these are so many questions that are probably a no-brainer answer but I'm looking to see if any one here had/has or heard of a similar or exact problem. Is the trans fluid low or dirty? I saw the CARFAX I didn't see the services he's done it's only been 1 owner on this car I'm the second. Previous owner leased it brand new.
Drove a new 1.8T VW Passat last night. 170hp/184ftpd torque. Huge difference! My Camry feels totally underpowered now. Also the transmission seems to shift into high gears way too early. Had reprogram recall done and shifting was better for a little while but now is back to being the same as before.
View 14 Replies