Camry 2012+ :: SE V6 Dome Light Flickering At Stop / Idle And In Gear
Dec 9, 2015
2012 camry se v6 ...have a dome light flicker at stop..idle..in gear...and most noticeable at night. Dealership checked alternator. all ok according to their device. I made them show me. They changed the battery saying it was bad which changed the flicker a bit but didnt remove it. (could also be crazy and just wanted it to fix it) Overall just annoying but dont think it should be doing it. The dealership said this was normal for this car with the JBL audio. The car is completely stock, no modifications. Dont trust their response. Car is just out of warranty and just purchased.
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I have a 2012 SE I4 with 500 miles on it. I have noticed that while sitting at stop lights, the car vibrates slightly and I can feel it on the seat since day 1. It gets better if the AC is on. I would expect that when stopped and sitting at a stop light, the car should idle smoothly and not notice the engine. If I put in N or P, I don't feel the engine running at all either through steering wheel or the seat. Is it normal? It is really annoying me since the car is less than a week old.
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I have a 2003 Camry V6 LE.
Yesterday the headlights did not turn off automatically when the car was locked up after being driven for about 30 minutes. Unfortunately, this was not detected until about 8 hours later.
The door locks would not function with the remote and the doors were manually unlocked.
When I got in the car and tried to start the car the dash and dome lights began blinking/flickering, the CD player ejected the CD, and the security light was blinking as it would if the doors were still locked.
The battery was too low to start the car so I jumped the car to start it and got home.
Battery showed 12.7 volts cold the next morning before the car was started. While running there was about 14.3 volts across the battery terminals which would seem to say the charging system is OK. Battery is just under 3 years old.
Doing some testing, I found that the headlights would turn on with the multifunction switch without the car running. In this case they would not turn off through locking the doors even after double clicking the lock button on the remote. The only way to turn them off in this case was through the multifunction switch.
Other testing shows that if the lights were turned on with the car running, they would turn off automatically within about 30 seconds or so when the car was shut off and the doors locked. In another similar test with the engine running and then shut down I also tried the double click lock using the remote and this also turned the lights off immediately.
Based on research on TN site, one recommendation for a similar, but not identical, problem was to replace the multifunction switch. No one suggests replacing the headlight relay or any of the 4 DRL relays.
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I recently had to change the dome light in our 2012 Toyota Camry so I took some pictures and wrote a simple how to guide. The interior light assembly should be the same for 2007-2012. I definitely recommend changing to an LED light while you are at it, they last longer and are brighter. The OEM bulb number is DE3175 but I hear a lot of people like the PUTCO 231125 LED replacement bulb.
The dome light replacement guide is here How to Change Toyota Camry Dome Light .......
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My 2015 camry front dome light switch is broken. This is the push type light. I am not sure how but today i was trying to turn the light on and noticed it wasn't turning on. When i opened the lens cover to switch the bulb i noticed the button was missing and the other side has a button. I don't understand why the light will not turn on when i open the door either. I tried sticking some thing small in to the broken part where the button used to be and it turns on if i do that, but i would have to hold it in place which is pretty inconvenient. What can i do to fix this? it seems like i have to replace the whole overhead assembly. Is there a cheap fix? i would be happy if the light comes on when i at least open the door.
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How can i remove the rear roof dome light fixture. ...
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Looking for the dome light lens cover for the front passenger side. the one you push in...
Mine has some extremely sticky substance on it and i tried goof off soap and wirebrush but it won't go away.
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2009 Corolla LE... IDLE will fluctuate from 600 to 900 while at a stop light. It will keep rev up and then rev down to the point where it feels like the car is about to turn off and then it will rev back up again. I use Shell 89 Octane fuel. I have tried everything with the car.
I have cleaned the MAF, the Throttle Body, changed the engine air filter, using only 0W-20 Synthetic oil (change every 3.5 to 4k miles). Have added Fuel Injector cleanered to the fuel: Have tried BG44k, Red Line SL-1, Techron Concentrate. Added Liqui-Moly Ceratec to the engine oil to reduce friction.
Now Changed the Bank 1 Sensor 2 for Oxygen sensor.
Drained the Transmission fluid, dropped the pan, changed the transmission filter and refilled it with the Toyota ATF.
Changed Spark Plugs and used the Toyota OEM Iridiums.
Reset the ECU.
Tires at 35 PSI.
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Disclaimer: When I refer to lights, I mean the back-lit radio controls.
Noticed they're lights flicker when they turn off the car? It doesn't happen all the time and just kinda weird.
I have a 2014.5 SE Sport and the only thing I can think of is I always have my parking lights on (cuz I turned off DRL) but they always turn off when I open my car. Each time I try to record it, it stops doing it. It usually only last for a few seconds but just thought it to be odd.
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I disconnected the battery yesterday and once I connected it back the car felt like it was gonna turn off and ever since when I'm in a stop it starts shaking. Is their anyway to fix the idle time ....
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This is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
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My friend has a 2007 Hyundai Accent. I don't have any picture so I'll try to explain as best as I can. He has a problem with the braking light that is on the spoiler (it's an hatchback). All lights are very dim and flickering while the two bulbs on the right are solid. I believe the light assembly is dying and need to be replaced with new bulbs. The problem I have is I am not able to get to the assembly. I have the manual shop but it doesn't include instructions for the hatchback version.
There's a few black bolts/screws on the trunk lid. I removed those, but the spoiler doesn't want to move at all. I see 3 plastic trim that are beige. I believe there's more screws behind those. I don't know where the plastic holder are for the trim so I didn't try to remove them (I don't want to brake them!!). See the attached picture with the red circle for the black screws I am talking about.
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I have a problem with my 2014 camry. Yesterday out of nowhere, my dome lights wouldnt shut off.. I checked all the doors, made sure they are all shut.. but no luck.
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I have a 2012 camry. With key off power locks and dome lights don't work. Key on, both work.
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Just purchased this car. Dome lights will not turn on until key is in ignition and key is turned to on position. Is it some thing i can program myself?
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What is probably causing this white smoke on my 2012 camry se v6 with 105190km? Randomly, the camry would emit a screen of white smoke after stopping at a stop light with just normal acceleration (this is a LOT of smoke, something to be embarrassed about for a 2012).
[URL]......
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At idle, (600 RPMs, might need to bring it up?) the motor is Real rough, but doesn't stall out, just very "wobbly" Once the car is brought up to the 900-1000 RPM range everything flattens out, and at driving speeds it drives great! Pulled up to 90 mph on the high way, and passed a few cars on some back roads and everything ran great, until I hit idle.
It threw a code for the Cam Position Sensor after I tried to restart the car, and the person who work on this car before me had zip tied the connector into the sensor because he had broken it. Low and behold, you cant buy just the replacement part of the harness.
I tried to get the wires all plugged back in, and the CEL went away, but the idle was still pretty rough. Also, at idle, the oil light flickers just a bit.
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1996 Toyota Corolla base model 1yr ago dome lite would stop working,I then would sand contacts on dome lite and sand bulb it would then work for about 1 month now I do the same thing and lite will only work for about 20 min.(tried new bulbs many time) was told could be corroded or a bad relay, dont know what to do????
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When I accelerate to merge onto the highway or pass my battery light blinks as well as my headlight flickering and a slight loss in power. My car has 140k miles on it, original battery which seems to test fine on my charger. I just change the spark plugs.
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So my truck drove great to ocean city MD this weekend. Power is perfect again, feels really tight. But now I have having to additional problems.
1) My alt light had been flickering a couples times a month. Last night it came on and stayed on. Lots of threads about this I Know!
I am hoping that cleaning and tightening the connections will do the trick since the alt is a Bosch with only 25k miles or so. But I want to order a rebuild kit:
is my alt a 3G or a 3G8429?
F SERIES | Alternator Starter Rebuild Kits
2) I started to have a ticking at idle. Its very regular and sounds like its coming from the passenger side valve cover. In random threads I have read about timing chain guides breaking and loose rocker arms.
Most of the time its 3 ticks in a row and then a pause. Should I be pulling the valve cover? Think I need to R&R the timing chain? I will post a video later!
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I want to not only upgrade to LED lighting, but I want to add to the single bulb fixture found in the center dome light (between the front and rear seats).
I can get the cover off OK, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to remove the fixture itself. There are what appears to be press fit style plugs (similar to what you would expect in a door panel) but there is also half-slots making it look like one side pops out and the other side slides off the mounting plug.
How to remove it without breaking it?
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