I've had my camry SE special edition model since november of 2015. I have noticed that on a few occasions(less than 10) that when stopped the rpm's drop and it shudders for about 2-4 seconds then the rpm's rise again and its good.
View 4 RepliesAfter the car has been sitting for a while (say about 8 hours or so) I will turn the car on and I will always wait about 30 seconds or so before moving off just to let the oil start moving around. If I go to take off the engine shudders and sounds like its about to stall and the engine revs drop to almost around 300-400 revs then suddenly come back up.
Now I drive a manual car and I know there will be people there that will say I obviously cant use the clutch very well. This happens from anywhere from a flat to a decent incline in rain or sunshine, night and day, and all different external temperatures.
But that isn't all, the kicker is if I give the throttle a quick jab to bring the revs to around 1200-1500 revs, go to take off and the car is fine. ONLY happens once after sitting around for a while, basically after the engine has a good time to cool off to completely cold. Little side note, this has been getting more frequent over the last 3 months.
I have a 2012 Camry SE and lately on low throttle the car vibrates or shudders like if in driving thru a rough road and tires are good used a different set and still the same result.
View 14 RepliesI've noticed something weird with my 14.5. Over the last two days it's making a clunking noise and the car shudders going from neutral to reverse. I never noticed it before on this car and certainly not on my 2012. I'm not on a hill, revving it, or anything, foot is firmly on the brake. I first noticed it going from drive to park, felt it, and was able to repeat it sitting there by going from neutral to reverse.
The other oddity I noticed is the car sometimes rocks forward once I put it in park and took my foot off the brake, even with the parking brake on, but it doesn't do that all the time either, grade doesn't matter. The parking brake works fine, it holds the car in place in neutral on a slight incline, and I felt it when I backed the car up with the brake on a month ago.
Didn't think to mention this at my appointment the other day but now that it's acting odd going from N to R I'm wondering if I should have. This transmission seems to shift better though overall then my last one (little smoother, quicker) so I'm hesitant to have them start messing with fluid levels or anything.
I bought a new 2014 Prius plug-in base model two weeks ago. No problems until yesterday.
The engine has started revving really loudly on occasion. It's much louder than the normal ICE noise in hybrid mode - 2 or 3x as loud (much louder than our regular Honda Civic engine).
When the revving happens when I'm in EV mode, the EV mode light on left side of dash stays on (but it's clearly not in EV mode). The EV and Eco symbols above the power bar go blank. The MPG won't go above 25 mpg, no matter if I'm not touching the accelerator. Switching from EV to Hybrid mode and back does nothing.
The only way to get it to stop is to stop the car, turn it off, turn it back on, and then it's fine - EV or Hybrid mode, it sounds normal again. I have not tried to drive more than a mile with the noise to see if it goes away. It occurs when:
-If the fan, heat or defrost is on when I turn the car on - turning them off doesn't stop the revving.
-If I switch the fan, heat or defrost on when stopped at a light - turning off doesn't stop it. (But it doesn't happen if I turn heat or defrost on while moving in EV or Hybrid mode.)
-If I switch from EV to Hybrid mode while stopped at a light.
The weather is cooler now and I'm fine with the ICE starting to warm up the engine, the compartment, etc, but the revving noise doesn't seem normal.
I think it's possessed! My sisters vehicle, a 2002 Explorer with a 4.0 V-6, automatic, 2 wheel drive will just shut off. At first it acted like it would vapor lock. But it would start right away. then the a while later, (several months), it got where it would drop rpms and the engine shudders, sometimes not dying.
When this first started, the throttle body was cleaned, a new air filter installed, fuel pressure checked. Everything checked out and for a few days it ran fine. Then it started all over again. There has never been a code thrown. All of this goes on only when the ambient temp is above 70 deg.'s. below 70 deg.'s it runs perfect.
Last week it went to the mechanic again and a new crank speed sensor, fuel pump, and diagnostic done. He could not find anything wrong any where. Took it for a test drive and it dyed on the mechanic. Still no codes. What the problem might be? Every Mechanic that has looked at it has gave up, one even saying, " it's possessed."
It's a 1999 f250sd 5.4l auto. Has code p1747. Truck shudders and almost dies when you drop it in gear, put it back in park idles fine. I have read all the post on here about this and checked wires from trans up to pcm look and test well. Tested plug c1048 wires with the digital meter to body ground with battery unhooked and got 6.66k ohms on pin 11 circuit 925, 421 ohms pins 1 and 12. Plugged c1048 back to trans checked 925 w/y wire at plug c103 got 9.1 ohms back to trans. Is the EPC solenoid bad or is it pcm? I think its epc but want to verify before i take trans apart.
View 2 RepliesIts a 1999 f250sd 5.4l auto. Has code p1747. Truck shudders and almost dies when you drop it in gear, put it back in park idles fine. I have read all the post on here about this and checked wires from trans up to pcm look and test good. Tested plug c1048 wires with digital meter to body ground with battery unhooked and got 6.66k ohms on pin 11 circuit 925, 421 ohms pins 1 and 12. Plugged c1048 back to trans checked 925 w/y wire at plug c103 got 9.1 ohms back to trans. Is the epc solenoid bad or is it pcm. I think its epc but want to verify before i take trans apart.
View 3 RepliesWe just got our 2012 Camry XLE about 1 month ago. Today, the smart key push start didn't work; the brake pedal seemed like it was seized, but the green (key) light did manage to come on, indicating it knew the key was there. When I pressed the start, all of the dash lights were flickering, but the car wouldn't start. Was towed to the dealer, who ran a diagnostic that indicated the battery had failed (the options for the diagnostic are pass, charge, and fail). They installed a new battery and it seems fine.
One of the doors wasn't completely closed overnight - would this have caused the battery to be done? I could see if it caused the battery to drain, requiring a boost / charge.
I heard a humming (motor) sound coming from my trunk area today. Car was off since previous evening. Sounded like maybe electric fuel pump? It stopped when I pressed smart key button and is not doing it now, but......
View 14 RepliesThree days ago while stopped at a light the car creeped forward forcing me to press harder on the brake to keep vehicle from moving.
Next day drove for 100+ miles with some stop and go traffic no problems. Third day drove 50 miles and upon arriving at home brakes felt spongy and nearly hit the floor the dash illuminated "Check Brake System".
My Camry has 5437 miles on it.
The dealer just called and said they need to replace a "brake booster". They said there is a TSB that addresses this issue in a VIN range.
Image here : YouTube [URL].....
I'm glad I was only stopping to pull into my drive way and not the freaking stop and go freeway traffic on the way to work in the morning.
Just finished replacing all 4 struts this morning. Next complaint on her list:
Car Shudders / Vibrates when AC is on and in Gear (seems OK in Park). It doesn't seem to Idle up when the compressor engages......everything works fine......just vibrates a lot more than it used to.
2009 Camry 4Cyl. This is my 5th Toyota and it is the biggest POS compared to all my others. Been very disappointed in this ride.
2012 6.7l CC SB SRW 4x4.
Truck has 9700 miles on it, bought it in December of 2012. Twice in the last week, when at about 60 mph on a flat road, maintaining speed with virtually no wind, there is a slow, gradual shudder from the rear wheels. Both times the truck has been on cruise control and if I add power, the truck does not accelerate and the shudder continues to increase. If pull power either by brake or canceling cruise, it stops and the truck performs as expected.
I have yet to have the time to reproduce this. My only hope is if the dealer is already aware. I plan on trying to reproduce it at some point with hopes of having something tangible for the dealer.
I have been noticing that the idle in my car while stopped at a light will sometimes drop to 500 rpm. This makes the car feel shaky at idle. As soon as I put it into neutral or reverse the rpm jump to 750 rpm. Intermittent issue, what this could be??? Its probably happened 3-4 times in the last 6 weeks. Its annoying.
View 14 RepliesI have done everything I can think of to this car. New; plugs, wires, distributor, battery, fuel pump, fuel filter, relay, and electrical lines to fuel pump. The timing belt is fine. The car has a rough idle and when I am stopped the RPM's drop below normal. Now it won't start. What can I try now?
View 1 RepliesI have a manual transmission, 2003 Chevy Cavalier with 197,000 miles. Car has been great up until 6 months ago. My husband is great with keeping up with oil changes/ routine car maintenance. The reason for my post is, I am having two main problems with my car
1.) Significant drops in RPMs while stopped.
2.) lurching while on the accelerator.
The significant drops in RPMs occur while at a complete stop and do not occur at every stop, it seems completely random. This first started roughly 5-6 months ago, my husband replaced the spark plugs and it was running fine until last week. Same symptoms- while at a stop it fluctuates between an idle of 1000rpms down to almost 0 (car has never died, but sounds like it comes close). The second set of symptoms have been fairly consistent the past 2-3 months. At first I thought I had some bad fuel so I applied fuel treatment- seemed to solve the problem until I filled up again. Same problem- again treated with fuel treatment, and issue resolved.
The same tank of fuel got down to 1/4 tank, and symptoms started a third time. Again- fuel treatment. The car is now down to 1/2 a tank and the lurching has started once again. There is no way I continue to get this unlucky with bad fuel. The car lurches forward more when I maintain a higher speed (50-60mph) but on occassion can occur while going much slower. It typically jerks for 5ish miles, it doesnt occur my entire drive to/from work (22miles). My check engine light is on, but has been for years. This is my daily driver, I depend on this car and am nervous if I dont find out what is wrong- ill end up stranded.
My friend just bought a 2008 F150 5.4 110k, it ran great all day during all of the test drives, after he gets it home it has started acting up. Most of the time it runs great, but sometimes when you stop the truck the idle will drop down and the truck sounds like it is going to die but so far it hasn't actually died, it starts knocking really badly and runs very rough. If you let it keep running like that it sets P0340. If you rev the truck up it cleans up and sounds fine again and it will even drop back down to a clean idle most of the time. I swapped the cam sensors because it was easy and just to see and it didn't make a difference, I was hoping after switching the sensors the code would switch to the other head but it didn't.
View 14 RepliesOur 2012 Tiguan (FWD) has been experiencing a sudden drop in MPG for the past two weeks. We had no significant change in climate or driving habits. With mixed driving, we dropped from about 24 MPG to 20 MPG. We had our 40K service done just two weeks ago.
View 9 RepliesI recently bought a 2013 accent and i have only one issue, but it is quite annoying. When i try to maintain a constant speed lower than 35 mph, the rpm will drop about 1000 and then go back up causing a pause in forward momentum, almost like it's tapping the brakes itself. I took it to the dealer and since the computer was showing no codes they swear this is normal for an accent. I say no way since it didn't do this when i test drove it or for the first week i had it.
View 1 RepliesI was driving up a hill today at about 30 mph with .9 miles remaining showing on my EV battery meter when all of a sudden it drops to 0 EV miles remaining and shows only 2 of the battery level bars (which is very very low), and the engine of course turns on. What happened?
I promise I did not push the EV power bar over its threshold. I monitor that like a hawk. I also know for a fact that it jumped from .9 to 0, because I watch that part like a hawk. This part of the trip is near the end of my drive home and I've done it about 50 times so far with no issues. With .9 miles left at that point on the hill I have always been able to make it to my driveway with .4 or .5 remaining, so this is very odd.
I live in the suburbs, so I do a lot of stop and go driving. For the longest time, I would typically get 25 or 26 mpg city, as per the gauge. I would see the number climb to 41 or so in constant highway driving. I am pretty sure the fuel tank is about 10.5 gallons or so as when the low fuel light comes on, and there is only one bar left on the gas gauge, and I top up the tank, I never put more than about 9.5 - 9.8 gallons in.
All this being said, in the last few weeks I have seen a severe drop in MPG. The gauge is constantly reading about 19.5, when I hit the expressway it will climb a bit, but when I compare the miles driven to the bars on the gas gauge, the bars used to drop at about 20 miles driven, now each bar will drop at around 13-15 miles driven. We are having some extreme cold here in the midwest, as opposed to last winter when I bought the car.