Camry 2012+ :: Rust On Both Front Axles - Is This Normal
Aug 17, 2014
I have 4cyl XLE (23months 25000miles) I found this long time back but never get chance to take proper pics....
On my front axles there is lots of rust, I was wondering is this normal....or is this can be cover under corrosion factory warranty....
Just found one more old news on NY times.. Hyundai Recalls 259,000 Vehicles for Corrosion and Axle Problems....
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so in my 2012 Elantra GLS, I just spent $500 on new brakes rotors ... and it's been roughly 7 or 8 days, and I am seeing some rust on the brakes and rotors, I'm no expert on cars, but it doesn't look normal. Hopefully, it is normal so I can stop stressing.
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My 02 F-250 (week end truck) has begun to start showing a lot more surface rust on frame and axles. It's about half rust and half black frame. Are there any products that I can spray or brush on that will convert and stop this. ?
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Wash the car today, unfortunately found the driver side doorsill start to have some rust, and luckily the rust only found at he driver side doorsill rest doorsill looks fine.
Don't know what to do now, get it painted? or just grease it will keep rust from spreading?
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Rust proofing the rear wheel well: I was trying to rust proof/coat the rear wheel well and surrounding area to make sure i get the bolts under it. Back of the car is where most of the salt sits as the undercurrents with wind tend to drive the salt deep in the quarter panels and around tank area. I wanted to confirm if these cars still have the wheel well bolt securing the bumper to the quarter panel with a rust prone steel bolt.
When weather gets better i'll take to get sprayed somewhere. But for now i wanted to leave something on it of a coat after a good cleaning. Hate dam salt or whatever they are using these days.
I also noticed that the SE's wheel well internal sheathing was much stronger looking, solid than what's on my LE - a felt type material. Besides the wheel well rim on SE has a band of silicone type substance overlaid on it. Right?
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My 2012 camry recently had an issue with the acceleration that I took to the dealer and they drain and filled the transmission fluid 3 times and it fixed that.
There is still one issue which I'm not sure is normal or not - when I let the car coast by letting off the gas the car feels like the brakes are being pressed and it decelerates faster than normal. Also, my e-brake seems less tight than before so it doesn't really stop the car from going back when I park it unless I push it really hard.
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What is probably causing this white smoke on my 2012 camry se v6 with 105190km? Randomly, the camry would emit a screen of white smoke after stopping at a stop light with just normal acceleration (this is a LOT of smoke, something to be embarrassed about for a 2012).
[URL]......
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My Axles started to make noises couple months ago While making Sharp turns. I bought some new axles for the front, but this will be my first time replacing CV Axles.
Any tips and or recommendations on what to do and not do, and tools to use? I watched a couple Youtube videos already. I plan on changing them out this weekend.
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Posted a while back about a rattling/clunking noise coming from my front suspension. Since my car had nearly 100k miles on it and was still all stock, I went through and replaced ever single part of the front suspension. (Control arms, ball joints, got some Koni coil overs, strut mounts, sway bar end links, swar bar bushings). Turns out the noise wasn't actually related to the suspension. I've got massive play in both of my front axles. They make horrible rattling/clunking noises going over any sort of bump, even the REALLY small ones.
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I have a 2005 f150 and it will not engage the front hubs. It is a manual shift on the fly not electric. I have done some checking and this is what i have found so far. Pull the lever into 4H, dash light comes on, IWE's do not lock onto axle. Same for 4L. The transfer case does come in when lever is pulled into either 4H or 4L. Front end up on jack stands, engine off. Turn either wheel and axle turns with it as it should. Start engine, turn either wheel and it is free from axle, as it should be. so there is vacuum going to IWE when engine is on. Not sure what to check next. Is the vacuum solenoid on the firewall bad?? Is there something not getting activated when i pull the floor lever back?
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What would cause noise grinding type and feeling after having axles/boots replaced this morning on my 2005 Outback.Car seems noisy and vibrating
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my '02 Forester with standard shift (112K miles) has for some time made a clunking noise in the front CV axles on tight manuvers like parking, etc., once driven for a while but mechanics, even 'Subaru gurus' have never been able to tell me what it was. Recently during an 800 mile highway trip a transmission noise developed and the local AAMCO shop diagnosed a chipped gear, requiring a gearbox rebuild. Today they called to say the problem was a destroyed viscous coupler at the rear of the gearbox "and as the gearbox is out", clutch replacement. My question is, since the problem was misdiagnosed, should I pay the labor for having the gearbox removed/replaced when in fact it had nothing to do with the gearbox ?
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While driving the other day and making a slow sharp turn, like a u turn, I felt my wheels binding like they were in 4WD. I got under the truck and I could not turn my front axles freely. I jacked each side up independently and I could spin each tire and the axle would turn as well.
I thought being out of 4WD that the axles would turn freely? Mine do not.
I have ESOF and my hubs are turned to AUTO.
Is this normal or do I have an issue with my hubs or transfer case?
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I've noticed my front axles are rotating all the time even when the hubs are in auto and supposed to be unlocked when in 2wd. Is there a rebuild kit for these so they will unlock the axles or do I need to buy new locking hubs?
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I already paid deposit to a dealer to buy a 2012 RX350. But I just noticed there are lots of rust on the subframe and attached components at the the underside of the vehicle. I made a video, but I could not upload it due to the size of the file. I uploaded some pictures for you to see. One rust spot is on the real frame. Or there is no way to clean up the rust because the rust are already there? The mileage of the vehicle is 81,000 KM)?
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We have a '12 Camry LE. I'd like to know if it is possible (and what would need to be replaced) to get the front map lights to light up when you open the door, similar to a Camry with a sunroof.I have a 07 TSX and like that feature. It is a little dark enter the vehicle without them.
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where the reverse wire at in the front of a 2012 camry se .
i got my otocam3 from adc mobile and will be adding a backup camera to but need to connect the (+) reverse wire from the radio.
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I have a 2001 hyundai santa fe v6 all wheel drive the car is actually my wifes car and she likes it however I have recently noticed some significant rust on the front subframe where the the lower control arm attaches my question is is there or is there not a recall for this again 2001 v6 awd salt belt car ohio to be exact again.
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I have a 2012 SE v6 with 1600 miles on it. About a week ago, I noticed my bumper cover pulled away from the corner of the headlight and there was a noticeable gap. I pushed on it, and heard a click. The bumper stayed in place. After a couple days driving, it came loose again. I didnt touch it so the Service Writer would see it first hand. Of course, his first instinct was to puch on it, but I got loud quickly, so he kept his hands to himself, and heard me out. I knew if he clicked it back into place I would be SOL. He admitted something needed to be done, not just click it back.
When I picked it up, he said it was a known issue, and there is a TSB on it. He claimed they replaced a bracket. The invoice reads, "ADDED FELT TO TIGHTEN FIT". Yeah, Im sure that will hold just long enough for them to wash their hands of it.
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Mounting front license plate somewhere other than the "official" mounting location? I don't like the thought of putting holes in my front bumper. I can move it down a bit such that the holes are in the bumper just above the air opening. So, they would be less noticeable. This would block some of the airflow through the lower opening. But, unless I'm driving in 100+ deg temps, it probably won't matter.
I could also offset it to the right or left in the lower opening.
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How to remove the front map light assembly. I was trying to replace my map light with LED and one of the holder came off from the assembly. Is there anyway to secure it without removing assemble?
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