Camry 2012+ :: Running Strangely On Highway When Between 70 And 80 Mph After Every Fill Up
Mar 29, 2015
I recently purchased a used 2012 camry se. 4cylinder. Seems that after every fill up the car runs strangely on the highway when between 70 and 80 mph. After driving about 15 miles it doesn't seem to do it any longer. Is this an issue with the evap system possibly or maybe with the fuel delivery system ?? The first time I filled up the car shut down completely. I later found that this was probably caused by overfilling when getting gas. Since then I am sure not to top off yet I am still getting the problem with the engine being sluggish at 70-80 mph.
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We have a 2013 Camry with the 2.5l engine.
I just changed the oil and filter for the first time. The good book says the capacity is 4.6 qt. I did that, started the engine, let it circulate then shut it off for a half hour. The dip stick shows about half way between the full and add markers. So, seems like the capacity to the fill line is more like 5 qt.
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This is a 2002 4 Cylinder Camry XLE.It gets cold when running down the highway, but at a stop , AC gets warm.I have replace the cabin filer. A couple of years ago, replaced the AC MAG Clutch Relay, when AC light was blinking.But now I feel the condenser in front of the radiator and it feels very hot, and the fans never seem to come on.I can see the 3 Fan relays, and not sure where the ECT sensor is located, or whether that would be the problem.If the fans arent coming on at all, you would think the car would overheat?
Tested the motor on one of the two, with direct 12 volts to it, and it did not run.Tested the disconnected cable that would be supplying voltage to that motor and it read 13+ volts. So I would think it was a bad motor, but I would like to see the voltage on that disconnected motor go to zero, but not sure if that happens, or when?Guy suggested at parts place that sells the Two Motors, Fans, and Shield all as one unit for less than $100, that maybe the motor burned out because it was running all the time.
WHen should the electric motors not be receiving power?I read somewhere that when car starts that both are on low speed, and Always on when AC is on. But do one or both ever turn off? If I pull this shroud out with the two motors and buy the replacement, I just don't want to have the motor blow out, because there is something making it run all of the time.
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How "ECO" mode actually works?
When I first got my new 2012 Camry, I noticed ECO light would come on mostly on the highway when I reached certain speeds, and seemed to come on more when I had air conditioning on.
However, now it seems more often the ECO light is on all the time, even when I come to a complete stops. Just wondering if this is normal or do I need to take it in to be checked out or what?
I know ECO mode works with speeds and air conditioning. I do notice when ECO light comes on, the AC doesn't seem to be as cold.... I want my AC working as cool as possible!!! It's constantly over 100 degrees here in San Antonio in the summer.
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It all started around 18,000 miles when I noticed a vibration under highway braking. I convinced myself that everything was fine for the time being and I would have the dealer inspect the brakes at my 20,000 service. Fast forward to the service and all four of my rotors were warped. The dealer turned them all and said I wouldn't have any more problems. The car sits at 28,500 miles now and I'm starting to get the same vibration sensation as I had at 18,000 miles. I'm definitely going to be bringing the car in for it's 30,000 mile service and I will bring up the issue again. What type of warranty is on the brakes as I hope they will replace the rotors this time.
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Shortly after driving off the dealer lot last year with the 2014 Camry a persistent rattle would appear at 70 MPH. It sounded like it was coming from inside the passenger door.
The culprit was a loose passenger side rocker panel knocking against the undercarriage at highway speeds. A few plastic push pins securing the panel to the underside of the frame backed out.
After pushing the pins back in a small dab of RTV was applied at a few locations where the rocker panel comes in contact with the undercarriage and dab was applied to each push pin. Now, not even the heartiest of car washes will work anything loose again.
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I'm going on a slight curved highway at 70mph. If I let go of the steering wheel, the car maintains course following the curvature of the lane. The steering doesn't straighten itself out like doing a normal turn. Noticed this? Is this a "feature"?
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I noticed this rattle/whistle on one of the 2012 camrys we test drove and now I am hearing it on the one we purchased. when on the highway with the radio off or down low I hear the rattle/whistle. (almost like a jacket zipper rattle) It sounds like it is coming from near the top of the drivers door.
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I got my LED DRL kit today, the harness has 3 wires red(+), black(-), and white(for connect to (+) of headlight so when headlight on the drl will go off). So I will connect black wire to negative of battery or ground, red wire to ACC or ign. So my question is how can I find ACC and how can I connect white wire to (+) of headlights? My led drl kit is similar with the kit in the link: [URL] ...
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I just picked up a Camry SE the other day and noticed that there are no daytime running/driving lights. I had them on my '05 Camry LE but this '12 SE doesn't seem to have them. Are my bulbs just out? Or do they not come with DRLs anymore? The switch in the car has "Lights On, Side lights, Auto, and No DRL." I always leave it on Auto.
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I bought my 2012 Camry, with 12,000 miles from the Dealership in December of 2013. The car was sold as CPO, car was purchased on Dec 30... just 6 weeks ago and I have had numerous issues with the car Misfiring. When I arrived at the dealer, the CHECK ENGINE and TIRE TRACTION lights are one and the car is running very rough as acknowledged by the service techs. For the 2nd time now, I am told they are not able to recreate the problem, so they are not able to fix it.
This is my 4th Toyota and I have NEVER had this many problems with a Toyota. Did I get a lemon? Service tech says he can't fix it unless he knows exactly what's wrong. I am asking him to check the spark plugs, check the ignition coil...and his response is that they can't just go on a wild goose chase, they need to know what they are looking for. Does this sound reasonable?
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In my new to me 05 B5 we have a problem with the turn signals. When turning right the signal works fine but once you return straight and the lever returns to center the relay or something in the center console continues to cycle for 2-4 cycles afterwards. Also, if on cruise, and you activate the left turn to pass, it kicks off the cruise. I suspect it's either the lever or the slip ring on the column (if it has one like my 96 Passat).
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I understand that filling up with gas when the car is running is not recommended. I did it once without realizing that it could cause issues. Now I am trying to determine if that action has anything to do with the CEL being on. The codes are P0442 and P0456. The codes have been cleared several times but the light pops back on after a while, anyway from one day to a week later.
Smoke test did not reveal any issues. My question is this, can filling up with the engine running cause any physical problems with any of the EVAP components? What would be the most likely problem? I plan on buying a new gas cap, since it is cheap. I do not wish to spend a lot fixing this problem.
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I just got a 2014 Camry SE a few months ago. I have a couple of questions. First of all, I need to know how to turn off the daytime running lights when the engine is off and I'm just parked and listening to the radio. The lights seem to be on any time the ignition switch is in any position except off.
And secondly, is it necessary to use synthetic engine oil instead of good quality regular oil of the correct viscosity? Will it affect the warranty, how about the oil change interval, etc.
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The right side seems plugged up with glove box components.
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I have a 2014.5 Camry SE 4CYL 29K . Lately the car has been running so sluggish, it almost seems like it has lost power. Acceleration from stop or while driving seems to be a burden almost like if i was towing a boat. I have 5k since since my last oil change, and have the KNN drop-in air filter, so dirty air filter is not the problem. Not to forget that I always pump 91 octane from chevron. Why this would be?? ( should i have them change the spark plugs?) or could this be due to the transmission?
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This car runs rough after forward gear shifts unless I give the accelerator a push. Seems like problem is at lower RPM after shift. This condition improves after 30-40 miles. About 60K miles now.
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Our 2012 camry se had a problem with the fuel pump running when the engine was off. Several hours after we came home I went into the garage for something and heard a humming noise. First thought was a distant neighbor using a leaf blower, then realized it was coming from the rear of car. definitely coming from gas tank area. Turned key on, then off and noise was gone.
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At many, but not all, gas stations, as I try to fill up the gass flow cuts off very shortly after I start. No matter how I position the nozzle it cuts off. if I squeeze the trigger just barely so the gas flows slowly, then it will remain on, but takes forever to fill up.
Again, doesn't happen at every gas station, but a lot. Based on that, I'd assume it's not a malfunction in a valve, filler neck, evap canister, etc.
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I am having an issue with by club wagon. This vehicle has dual tanks. The front tank doesn't work (and never has since I purchased it a couple of years ago....bad fuel pump I am guessing}.
A couple of months ago the fuel pump went out on the rear tank and I had it replaced. I now have a peculiar problem. Fuel is coming out of the front tank fill spout when the engine is running. There seems to be a tremendous amount of pressure building up in the front tank...even though I am not using it.
I would seem as though fuel is being pumped out of the rear tank and into the front tank to a certain pressure point, and then on to the engine. One solution would seem to be to remove the front tank completely from the system, but I don't know how to do that, or if it should be done. After driving and coming to a stop, fuel is pouring out through the gas cap on the front tank. I. Don't need to use the front tank as I am just using this as a work truck.
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On average, how many miles do you average between fill ups. I understand that this is all dependent on everyone's respective commutes, road conditions, ability to charge at work, etc., but i'm interested to know what you all do on average.
I'm still on my first tank and have 905 miles with one bar left on my tank.
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