Camry 2012+ :: Oil Pressure Light Turns Off Immediately After Crank The Engine
Mar 22, 2015
The oil light on my 2015 Camry LE turns off immediately after I crank the engine, and half a second later goes back on again for less than a second. I showed this to the dealer and they said it is normal; however none of my other cars did that. Perhaps the factory filter is bad and needs to be replaced? It does it only if the car sits for a while. If I turn the engine off for 10 minutes and turn it back on it does not do it, which tells me that perhaps anti-drain valve is bad...
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have a 14 se. pressure light came on this weekend which is the first time it's came on since I've owned the car. I checked the pressure in all 4 tires and all 4 had a psi of 30, which is 5 under the recommended psi. I don't know how all 4 tires are that much under all at the same time. a little confused
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When I'm in a garage and start the car, with the headlights on 'AUTO', they go on immediately, even before the engine turns on and starts running. Is this bad for the wiring in any way?
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I bought my car in 2012. Lets say I have my air on completely custom settings (temp, fan speed, mode). When I press the Auto button the fan speed automatically adjusts based on the temperature I have set, the mode always forces to feet only (sometimes feet and defroster) and the A/C light always comes on.
The only way to keep it in Auto mode while turning the A/C button off is to do the following: Press the Auto button, then press the A/C button to turn it off.
I am just trying to figure out the logic behind why Toyota would force the A/C light every single time the Auto button is pressed, even when it is 5 degrees outside.
So am I correct in turning the A/C light off when in Auto mode and using heat only or does the A/C light come on for a reason? Is it actually running the A/C compressor even in the winter?
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So I just got my new wheels today without sensors. The light was on after driving awhile. How to reset the light? I did try step by step in the manual book but didn't work.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Celica gt, and I had a accident on the front of the car. The only things needed to be replaced was the radiator and the Intake manifold.The car wasn't drivable for about 3 months, but within those 3 months I was able to work on replacing the radiator and the intake manifold ( which a crack on it). Now that I finished working on the car, the engine turns on but then it shuts off immediately. Everything was replace properly, I just don't understand.
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whats the limit for low tire pressure light (tpms light) to turn on in 2015+ camrys. My tpms light turned on, on a cold morning, few days ago, tire pressure was 28 psi that day. Now my tire pressure raise upto 30 in all tires by it self due to warm weather, but light is still on.
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How do you reset the tire pressure sensor 2013 Camry. Could find the reset button.
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I have a 2008 Audi A4. Today while at a stop light, suddenly, the 'check oil pressure' light came on. Immediately after the car died. I tried to restart to no avail. After pushing the car to a safer stop, I checked the oil level. It was perfect. I let thecar sit while I did some quick research on my smartphone after which I tried again to restart. The car was as if the starter was dead. It did not turn whatsoever. Next, a warning light came on to 'tighten fuel cap', which was completely secure. Then, a warning that my headlights were misaligned. I started checking fuses....all fine. The cars fan started and the check oil pressure light came on again. The car still will not turnover whatsoever, however, everything else works fine; lights, radio, fan, etc.... So, I called the dealer and theyre clueless unless they hookup the sensors.
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I bought Toyota Camry 2013 LE and couple days ago Tire Pressure Warning Light appeared!!
I checked all tires and the pressure is 35 PSI but the warning light is still on, how to turn it of or reset it?
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Question about the oil light. On a cold start the oil pressure light goes out immediately.
After driving around for a while (engine warmed up) and shutting off the engine for anywhere between 45 to 60 minutes or so and then starting the engine again, the oil light will go out immediately, but then SOMETIMES, pop back on, MAYBE flicker, then stay off. This all takes place in less than a second, almost a microsecond. This is all very intermittent too, No rhyme or reason as to temp or time between starts. Engine is very quiet, except for a COLD start (over night). I use 5-20 and it makes no difference whether using conventional or synthetic.
I change my own oil, but dealer did it once and I still get the same issue. I suspect the sending unit, or is this 'normal'?
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What is the tire pressure that will trigger the TPMS to activate the warning light on the dash? I had 31psi in my left front and got no warning?
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I have a Toyota camry 2004. My engine check lights goes on and automatically turns off after some time. There is no specific pattern on when it goes on or off. I got it checked for the OBD codes and both the times the mechanic said the codes read a bad O2 sensor on Bank 1.
If the O2 sensor is really bad isn't the light supposed to be on all the time. I wonder it might be something else that is turning my engine lights on.
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I have a 1997 Toyota Camry thats leaking oil profusely. Within a week of topping oil, the oil leak light turns on. The mechanic says that leak is somewhere near the engine and he needs to tear it apart to see whats up. Estimates run upto $ 800. I am trying to extract life from the car. Is Lucas stop leak advisable?
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I have a 2002 ford explorer with 70000 miles on it. The problem is that the oil pressure occasionally go from normal to no pressure immediately. Then within a minute it pops right back to normal. It has happened when I first crank up and sometimes just going down the interstate at a normal speed. My fear is that the oil pressure is really gone and there is a pump problem but with it either working or not I fear it could be a sensor problem.
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I just got done putting the head back together after time sert repair on the 10 head bolts and after the initial start up and warm up I drove it outside and within 5 minutes the oil pressure light came on. I did something stupid afterwards but being that it's nighttime already I thought it would be fun to TURN ON THE ENGINE AND REMOVE THE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH TO ZZCHECK PRESSURE. Well it sprayed 2 feet in every direction until I managed to put it back. Cannot tell the psi but lots of pressure for idle. Oil is traveling places. I used compressed air on the switch put it back but still red light of death. The car drives fine no noise.
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I had a 2012 Camry but has not found the TPM display on it. It has fuel info and trip history when push the CAR button. I thought it should be there. How do I locate or set it up? Or it is not standard on LE?
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After short trip, 02 f-150 v-6 will not crank every time but engine turns over. When it does crank, it runs fine the entire trip. 189,000 miles on motor and is a 4x2 extended cab.
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I have a 2001 Golf 1.8T and while driving the oil pressure light turns on and the meter goes beyond the midpoint. I brought it in to a shop and they told me I need to change the oil pump and will cost $900. They told me it's because I don't frequently change oil and once the new oil is in, it caused the problem and only way to drive the car again is to replace the oil pump.
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I have a 1999 Camry. I just spent $1250 (half of it borrowed) to have some basic maintenance, diagnosis, and serious repair work done. More than half of the serious (translate: expensive) work involved replacing a charcoal canister and installing a thermostat. The check engine light had been on for at least 10 years. And I had a gas pumping problem by way of the pump shutting off after only pumping a few cents worth of gas. Needless to say it was a royal PIA to fuel up my car. As far as the check engine light, a friend would clear the code so I could have it inspected.
Then more than 2 years a shop took out my thermostat because a hose had sprung a leak and they rigged up a temporary hose until they could order the part. I never went back because I couldn't afford it. I know it wouldn't have been a terribly expensive repair, but at the time it was more than I could afford. So for almost 3 years I have driven with out a thermostat and also couldn't get it inspected.
Fortunately I was finally able to get the necessary repair on my car--replacing the charcoal canister and thermostat--so that it could be inspected. I picked the car up yesterday and everything felt fine and the car ran fine.
Today I drove it about 12 miles from my home, made 3 back-to-back errand stops of not more than 15-20 minutes each and everything seemed fine. Nothing felt or sounded out of the ordinary. Then when I was leaving my 3rd stop, the car would not start unless I gave it gas. And it wouldn't stay started unless I gave it gas. In other words, the car would go, but as soon as I would take my foot off the gas to press the brake to put it in gear, the engine would die. There was no problem restarting it as long as I gave it gas, but I could not let off the accelerator at all or it would immediately die.
The car would go just fine, but if I let off the gas for any reason, even if I was driving 40 miles an hour on the street and let up completely off on the accelerator, the rpms would immediately drop to 0 and the engine would immediately die---no noise, no shuttering, no nothing---just die. This problem occurred almost the whole 12 miles back to my home. Then when I got about a mile and a half away, it went back to behaving completely normal and did not die when I let off the gas.
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Have a 2012 Camry 4cyl. LE, auto trans. This is especially noticeable when making right turns on city streets, and occasionally on left turns. When trying to accelerate back up to speed, it takes a second or two to begin to speed up, sometimes shifting down and then accelerating. What possible causes for this strange phenomenon? Just after buying it (used, very low mileage, 4000miles). I took it to the dealer, they said that that is normal.
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