Camry 2012+ :: Oil Creeping Around The Bolt
Dec 31, 2014
Early around 8k on my 14.5 SE I had to have the valve cover gasket replaced due to oil creeping out of the edge of the valve cover close to the air filter box. Now yesterday as I was replacing my fog light bulbs I noticed that there is some oil creeping around the bolt on the bottom where the Transmission casing joins the engine.
I understand that I'm putting a lot of miles on this car (10K now), but I really don't feel like its right for a car to have such oil leaks so early in its life time.
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Recently took 2012 Malibu V6 to dealer for warranty water pump replacement. During the repair the bolt holding the "snubber" (engine mount shock damper). To the frame was cross threaded and snapped off in the frame. Dealer contacted GM engineers and was told to replace that section of frame.
They told me that they would have to drop tranny n engine to do it and would have my car for 3 to 4 more weeks. They have already had it for 3 weeks. Anyway it sounds serious and i am concerned for the integrity of my vehicle after having that extensive of tear down and reassembly.
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Searched with no results. What is the correct bolt torque for transmission pan bolts on a 2012 F350 6.7L?
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I got a piece of bolt stuck in the trans pan bolt hole, how to get that out if there!
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I was loosening the bolt that holds down the number one spark plug wire when it just spun off leaving less than half the bolt in the valve cover. I tried using the grabbit extractor but that did not work.
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I just inherited a 2004 Camry LE I4 like the one I already own. This car has 257785 on the ODO. I got the engine already taken apart from the Head Bolt Issue known for the 2AZ-FE Engines. I finally got everything back together, the timing is all set and I am at TDC. I also added all the fluids and got a new battery. The old one way pushing out 10.4 VDC from sitting so long. This is how everything turned out:
- During the Initial turn over the engine tried to crank and just ended up sputtering and cranking again.
After the first crank, I got my OBD scanner and plugged it in. These are the Codes that showed up:
- P2716 - Pressure Control Solenoid 'D' Electrical
- P0010 - A Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/Open Bank 1 a
- P0778 - Pressure Control Solenoid 'B' Electrical
- P2102 - Throttle Actuator 'A' Control Motor Circuit Low 9
- P0748 - Pressure Control Solenoid 'A' Electrical
So I found another thread on here about a Highlander with the same engine and Codes. The grounds ended up being the cause. I searched TIS for the Electrical Diagrams and found all the Engine Compartment Grounds. I cleaned the grounds and tested them all came back showing correct Voltage.
After that, I tried to crank it again and still didn't start, so i hooked up the OBD Scanner again. These are the codes:
- P0983 - Shift Solenoid 'D' Control Circuit High
- B1660 - Passenger Airbag Indicator Malfunction (Clock and Airbag Status Light on Dash were not Plugged in)
Now I have noticed these problems without even starting it:
- Turn the Key to 'ON' without cranking; everything is fine (all dash lights show up)
- Turn the Key to 'OFF' after the 'ON' Position; the Oil Pressure Light, AirBag Light, Battery/Alternator Light and CEL All stay lit. If you activate the Cruise Control or E-Brake the Cruise and BRAKE Light come on respectively. If you take the Key out everything is still the same.
- While the Lights are stuck on the Dash; if you flip the Wiper Switch Down the Left Side Radiator Fan turns on.
- If you turn the Blower Motor Fan on while the Key is in the 'ON' Position then to the 'OFF' Position; the blower motor stays on.
I looked at all the Fuses and none are blown. What else could it be? I have spent a while looking at everything and can't figure it out.
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Extreme tempertaures in NJ this week.Can this car handle this extreme heat without stripping the head bolt threads? Less than a minute after I start my car in this heat my fan turns on, yet the temp gauge is still below the middle mark..Can this car handle 90 degree + temps (also have A/C) on?2006 Camry Le 60K Miles--replaced coolant around a year ago.
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I have a huge problem. I was installing an air raid throttle body spacer while talking to a friend on the phone. While talking, I accidentally dropped one of the bolt spacers down the throttle body intake. Is there any way to get the spacer back without having to take the intake manifold off.
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I'm missing a bolt hold down for the power steering unit, where can I get the spec for the bolt so I can purchase and replace that bolt?
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Specs for the two bolts/washers for the passenger side (only) exhaust hanger? I'm referring There one hanger on the passenger side only w/ two captive threads in the subframe.
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I upgraded to APR II+ about two months ago and have been having the following issue that has been getting more frequent. During full throttle, now even not at full throttle, the boost will hit 20-24 psi and start creeping down to about 4 at 6500 rpm. I can hear what sounds like the waste hate just dumping in the mid to high rpms. The car feels like it's making no power and when I hit peak recall on my P3cars gauge it will read between 22.1 and 25.1. I have a feeling it's the N75 valve, or whatever it's called. Just wanted some input before I went out to get one. Other info car is at 24,xxx miles, just did an oil change, use different gas stations, and can follower was done about 7,000 miles ago.
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[URL].............
Happening to all 3 cars. All 2012
2- Passat Se 2.5L 60k/40k miles
1- Jetta TDI 65k miles
Shown driver rear rotor on Passat ( was cleaning Abs speed sensor ring)
Started about 35k miles on each car as a small ring creeping from the outer edge. Backside has maybe 1/4-1/2" clean braking surface.
Slide pins moove free and smooth
Pads were not seized
Caliper isnt seized
Notice the different ridges on the inner pad.
Obviously I want to replace the pads and rotors but before I do. I want to figure out the source for this disease so keep from prematurely replacing them in the future.
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When I get in the car, I noticed this. The head rest keeps creeping up. Every time I get in, it must creep up a little. And after time, it's extended up to almost max height. I'm constantly having to adjust it down. I'm 5'8" if that makes a difference.
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Got a '98 rodeo 3.2 with 160k. A couple weeks ago when stopping at red lights I noticed the temp gauge creeping up to the hot when stopped. This happened about 4 years ago and I was just low on coolant. I kind of figured that was the problem this time and added coolant. Then I started noticing coolant on the ground dripping from the skid plate a little toward the passenger side. The vehicle is parked on the street in front of my house so the vehicle may lean slightly to the passenger side. This rodeo is only driven during the week and then sits for 2-3 days on the weekend.
Over the last couple weeks I have noticed that it doesn't really leak during the week when it's being driven daily and if it does, it's just a drop or two. Now when it sits for 2-3 days there is a pizza sized leak under the vehicle probably about 18 inches wide. Since the overflow wouldn't hold coolant, I figured that it was cracked or had a leak. I removed the reservoir and didn't find a leak. I seen no evidence of a leak anywhere else, however since it's dripping from the skid plate, I assume that it's leaking on the front side of the engine. What to check. Seems strange that it doesn't really leak when running or hot, only when sitting for a few day.
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Ok, I get that a regular car with an automatic transmission will creep forward unless you keep your foot on the brake. Why does that happen in our cars when they are in EV mode at a stop? Unless the pedal is pressed to send power to the electric propulsion system why shouldn't it just sit there absent influence from gravity?
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Have this issue when creeping forward or backward. If I did not know better I would think that I had a broken motor mount. When I creep forward or backward I can feel and hear the entire front subframe shutter just a little. It gets a little worst when everything is warmed up.
If you have had this, what did the dealer or you do to resolve? Until now I have decided to just deal with it. I have about 9k on the clock.
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I bought a 2007 Prius 2 months ago and I noticed that when I stop at a stop light and engage the parking/emergency brake while keeping it in Drive gear the car creeps forward. I have more experience with manual cars where when you pull the emergency brake it locks the car and prevents it from rolling forward or back despite the car being still in gear, so I'm curious to know whether this is a normal thing with a Prius and pushing the P button in addition to the emergency brake at a stop light with a slight incline is necessary. I find that this two step process of disengaging the E break and putting the car back in Drive makes you slow to take off. But what I want to know if this normal with a Prius?
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The car I drive is a 1997 Civic EX, and if I drive it for about five minutes, the temperature gauge starts creeping up real fast. It'll go to the red if I let it, and the only thing that brings it down is turning on the heater and fan, at full blast. which is pretty miserable in summer.
I looked under the hood and found the radiator fan isn't starting up, no matter how hot it gets. So I checked the fuse - it looked good. Replaced it anyway just to be sure. No change. Then I replaced the relay switch. that didn't change anything. And I also replaced the fan motor. Still nothing.
I have read elsewhere that I should check my thermostat, but I can't see what it has to do with the fan motor not starting? also that the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor might be faulty but it is my understanding that that controls fuel-air mixtures and I just don't know.
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I had a 2012 Camry but has not found the TPM display on it. It has fuel info and trip history when push the CAR button. I thought it should be there. How do I locate or set it up? Or it is not standard on LE?
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Yesterday I took test drive of Toyota Camry SE 2012 (New).It was really good, except: When I came out of the car, I felt some change in vision and a bit of headache. The feeling was something similar to when you wear glasses which has significant number for a minute and then you take them off.I figured out this was because of the windshield having some distortions. So, are all new Camrys like this only or there was something wrong with that particular windshield?
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Getting an ECM communications error and car won't start. Checked all the wires and didn't find anything wrong. When I put the car to the ON position the check engine light doesn't come on at all.
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