Today I was checking up on the engine and noticed a weird "sucking" noise coming next to the air filter box.
I've researched a bit and it seems like I might have a vacuum leak? I have attached a video on the noise, I recorded on the phone so you might need to turn up the volume a bit higher to hear the noise (vertical recording, the noise starts at about 38 secs)...
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I need to clean the TB and MAF/MAP. Where are they on engine and what is the best way to clean them? Also, what is the best technique to detect vacuum leak?
View 13 RepliesI have a Passat 1.8t b5.5 with 150hp
Some months ago I chipped it and it drives very good and I also changed the diverter valve to a 710N.
But now it is fast, but sometimes it just feels like it doesn't hold boost as it should. and I hear a very loud psss sound just like a BOV when I shift. Could it be the 710N which has been broken? Or is it a vacuum line to the DV that has a leak?
I changed the air filter in my wife's 2012 Camry and took pictures and wrote a simple how-to guide so others can see how to do it. Our Camry has the retention clips on the air box but older years may have the 10mm bolts. How to change Toyota Camry Air Filter.
View 5 RepliesMy cabin filter is getting pretty dirty. I have been looking around at the different types of filters and was wondering. Is there any advantage in replacing the normal paper pleated filter with one that is lined with charcoal? What do you think of filter that is coated with charcoal and baking soda?
View 14 RepliesI noticed tonight my 4.6 V-8 Aviator is acting a bit sluggish, not bad, but still noticeable. I'm pretty sure I heard a hissing noise, almost like a vacuum leak. Would that vacuum leak caused by the pcv valve cause sub-par acceleration? I'm going to check the pcv valve in the morning. is there more than one pcv valve.hose on these 4.6 V-8's? I'm asking because I was reading about the pcv hose/valve in these 4.6 V-8's, some people on this forum had vacuum leaks caused by the pcv valve failing, being that it connects to the intake manifold.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2013 Camry XLE V6, and it now has almost 17,400 miles on it. About a month ago, I replaced the Cabin Air Filter (was definitely dirty) and the Engine Air Filter (was somewhat dirty). I made triply sure that I installed the Cabin Air Filter the correct way (the Air Filter is easier, as there is only one way to put it on).
In any event, after the car sits a while, and I start it up, whether I let air circulate from the outside or not, when I press the fan button for the A/C, initially a "musky" smell is present, but it does go away fairly quickly. (I have not tried this in "heat" (non A/C) mode yet). Why this happens? Seems somewhat strange (by the way, I used the correct STP filters that I previously purchased at AutoZone).
I have a 2010 F-150 FX4 SC 4x4 5.4l w/ automatic that has 52,000 miles on the clock give or take, unmodified with the only exception of a remote oil filter relocation unit.
I bought the truck with 48,000 on it and did not have this noise, I've had it back to the dealer and their best mechanic went for a ride with me and the noise was duplicated and the mechanic had the deer in the headlight look on his face and said he'd never heard anything like that before. I've searched the net for anything similar like this but have not found anything. The noise rears it's ugly head after the truck is warmed up and it first started around 55mph and went away at 65mph , then re-emerged at 75mph and left again at 82mph.
Tried the usual test things while noise was present first loading and unloading the steering left and right, (wheel bearing) no change. Next I applied the brakes (caliper rubbing) no change. Then I tried shifting to neutral (transmission or carrier bearing) no change. I also tried shifting into and out of 4x4 (transfer case) no change. If I speed up above those speeds or slow down below them, the noise disappears.
Recently... the noise seems to be more consistent and when it's present at 80mph and you let off the throttle, the noise is present all the way down to 55mph then magically goes away. The noise to me sounds like a vacuum leak in a rubber hose or a dry spinning shaft in a bushing, sort of a low hum that sounds like it's coming anywhere from the motor to the transmission area.
New 2014 SE 2.5L owner here. Gonna Amsoil my rig when it hits 5K. I bought a filter wrench and drain plug gaskets online. What's the torque spec. on the filter housing and drain plug?
View 7 RepliesWhat are the toyota part numbers for 2012 SE 4cyl...
1) Engine Air Filter(element)
2) Cabin Air Filter
Like a good boy scout, last week I changed the engine air and cabin filters in my 59K-mile 2007 Honda Accord.
Taking out the air filter, I saw the usual insects and dust in the housing and got out the shopvac to suck them out. But the hose was on the wrong port, and I ended up blowing the insects and dust everywhere. Augghhh! Into the intake manifold for sure, I'd bet. I connected the hose right, put it to the air intake, and prayed I was vacuuming all the dust I'd just blown in.
The next day, on the way to college, the car ran perfectly the first three miles. Then, a half mile from campus, the check engine light came on and the car began running badly. RPMs wouldn't increase even if the gas pedal was pressed. The speed couldn't be made to go above about 20 mph. The transmission, ordinarily smooth as silk, now clunked. Fortunately, I was able to reach the college parking lot. I parked the car and went to class, hoping the car would fix itself while I was gone.
Apparently it did. After the three hours I was in classes, the car started up just fine, and it drove home just fine. Except that the check engine light was still on.
At home, I used my OBD2 checker (bought five years ago but never until now even taken out of its packaging; love my Accord), saw a fault of P2101, and erased it. That made the check engine light go out. P2101 has to do with air/fuel, so it must be related to the air filter fiasco of yesterday.
By the way, there's a rattle from the glove compartment (which is lowered to replace the cabin filter). When the compartment door is open, the rattle goes away. Will troubleshoot this later. Am more concerned with being certain the check engine light doesn't come back. I don't want to go into limp mode on the highway, hours from home.
Two days later, I took advantage of a Sunday afternoon to try to blow/clean out the injectors and intake manifold. I put in a bottle of Techron and drove the car 45 miles, mostly on a nearby semi-rural highway. It has a 70 mph speed limit but at times traffic was doing 80. (Texas.) The car ran perfectly, both highway and city.
I installed a new cabin air filter and I am getting some fan vibration noise. Gets really noticeable around speed 3 or 4. What could be causing it? It is the TY brand filter.
View 4 RepliesA while ago I got my oil changed at a Midas location and it was not for a couple months later when I got my oil changed again that Midas cross threaded the oil plug. So now I've got a slow leak and I was told that I'm going to have to replace the oil pan the next time I get an oil change.
View 11 RepliesI have a friend with a 14.5 Camry that developed a transmission leak. He brings the car in to Toyota, they thought it was front pump seal. Turns out it was the case halves leaking. They are currently replacing torque converter, transmission, and trans cooler. All this at 26K.
Now is where it gets fun.. My girlfriend also has a 14.5 Camry 4 Cyl.. same car as listed above.
I go out to it, look under it and notice a " seeping " spot where I am assuming this problem has started.
She showed a technician at work ( she is a sales manager at a Toyota store) the picture. He said, looks like we have another one that needs a converter and possibly a transmission, I am assuming they will not know until it is out. her car has 25,500 miles on it.
We have a 2001 Passat with a 1.8T engine. There is a small vacuum hose at the front right fo the engine attached to the manifold that is cracked where it attaches and leaking. I'm fairly certain that this is causing the MIL light to come on. The clamps that hold the hose on look to be put on with some sort of custom VW tool. I'm going to replace this hose myself. What to use to reattach the new hose?
View 17 RepliesI suspected I had a vacuum leak somewhere, was told it wasn't likely. Just installed a tune in the evening drove it 15 miles was pretty sure I had one.
Installed Forge DV the next morning it was evident I had one by the sound the DV was Making. I checked the car head to toe and found two lines had broken apart. I replaced them will silicone lines and it appeared to be fixed.
Drove it 5 miles and the 'turkey sound' came back. (This is the sound that I originally heard and confirmed I had a vacuum leak somewhere)
I searched all over there car, had a second set of eyes that was mechanically inclined and we found nothing obviously causing a problem. We ended up just taking off the Forge DV and testing it by hand it held up and re installing it and securing it.
Strange enough that fixed the problem (no other hoses were tampered with while we were inspecting)
Drove the car home about 15 miles and stopped in a drive through. At some point while sitting something happened. Cause when I left the drive through then I noticed the car seemed to be lacking at low end, turned down the music and I could hear the turkey call. I left the car alone for the night. Thought maybe heat jas a factor in this. Drove it this morning and it was just how I left it. I inspected the hoses and found no change. I took the DV off and inspected then re installed. I noticed the turkey call was not as predominant but still completely present.
My ford's 4x4 will work if I manually lock in the hubs. If i use the auto option it will not engage. I can feel the rear end diff lock when I put it in 4-low so I know the switch is working. I think it is a vacuum actuated system. How to find the leak or diagnose the problem?
View 7 Repliesi have a 04 gli torando red i spike at 12psi and hold at 10psi. the last three days im only getting 5 psi i fixed some vacuum leaks and it went back to 10psi then today back to 5psi dont know if its chipped it does have fmic and air intake and bov...
View 8 RepliesI know all about vacuum leaks and such causing this problem, and I tend to think that is my problem. But isn't the temp change dial also vacuum controlled (in my case of an 06 f250 6.0) by that valve near the oil fill tube on the passenger side? I ask because, while I am stuck on defrost i can change the temp of the air that comes out still, telling me there is enough vacuum in the system to at least control that.
I also know everyone talks about checking the ESOF system for cracked lines/leaks, but this shouldn't come in to play unless I have 4WD selected or if the EFOF solenoid is bad, right? I just got done tearing the top end of this engine apart, twice, for oil temp problems and am about done working on this POS!!!
Just bought my volvo several days ago. It was throwing check engine codes so I had it scanned and it came down to a vacuum leak. I found the spot where it was leaking which was a little piece to the left and slightly behind the exhaust manifold, slightly behind and beneath the thermostat housing. It went from a hard plastic vacuum line, to a 1.5 inch rubber vacuum line which plugged into a nipple on the exhaust manifold or something behind the manifold. the rubber section had 3 large holes in it, so i replaced it with more rubber vacuum line. same length and same inner diameter.
What I did notice when I replaced it was that it was too large for the plastic line, slid on way too easy, but i had to fight it onto the nipple. The check engine codes went away for 2 days(I drove about 150 miles over that time) but today, the check engine light came back on, went to auto zone, had them scan it, came back with vacuum leak. So when I got home, I popped the hood, sprayed some carb cleaner by the replacement vacuum job I did, and sure enough the idle changed. What the proper replacement hose is for that area?
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Recently bought a MKV R32. Already had a magnaflow cbe, k&n panel filter, and some emissions stuff taken out from under the hood. not sure if it has been flashed, waiting to get a vagcom. think it is pretty stock other than that. My problem is about 2 weeks after I got it, I started to notice an exhaust leak or vacuum leak or both at higher RPMs, like above 3 or 4k it starts. The exhaust has a nice deep rumble in normal driving but when the leak noises start that is all you hear, the exhaust note disappears completely. I have tightened the clamps on the cbe and still does it. Not sure what to look for.
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