Camry 2012+ :: Needle Staying At 25 MPG When Going Down A Long Hill
Mar 18, 2016
I never reset my avg MPG readout but this morning I did. The digital readout jumped to 99.9mpg (was going down a long hill) but the needle stayed at 25mpg. If anything I thought it would have jumped to the highest possible which would have been 60 i think.. it didn't budge. I tried resetting a few times after that and it still stayed at 25 no matter what the digital one said.. how to fix it? I seriously probably haven't reset it in almost 2 years so is it possible the needle is literally just stuck from not being reset? The mpg needle doesn't bother me that much but if that's the quality of the gauge needles I worry about the gas one quitting on me..
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I never reset my avg MPG readout but this morning I did. The digital readout jumped to 99.9mpg(was going down a long hill) but the needle stayed at 25mpg. If anything I thought it would have jumped to the highest possible which would have been 60 i think.. it didn't budge. I tried resetting a few times after that and it still stayed at 25 no matter what the digital one said.. How to fix it? I seriously probably haven't reset it in almost 2 years so is it possible the needle is literally just stuck from not being reset? The mpg needle doesn't bother me that much but if that's the quality of the gauge needles I worry about the gas one quitting on me..
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I have about 3,000 miles on my 2014 Camry and the tranny just doesn't "feel" right. Seems clunky and the car lurches a bit when you need to accelerate up a hill. I traded in my 2007 Camry for this car and the '07 performed far better.
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I have a 2012 Toyota Camry and I noticed that when I am on a slight upward hill, my Camry will slowly roll back if I don't have my brake pedal applied. Does this happen to you and is it normal? This is my first new car and my old car which was a 94 lincoln never did this even on very steep hills.
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So the other day I was rotating my tires in my driveway, Once I was finished I took it for a test drive and about 2 minutes into the drive the traction control light (yellow light upper left hand corner) came on and has been on ever since. I haven't noticed anything else different while driving except the light remains on and that the "hill start assist" isn't working so I assume the traction control isn't working. I have tried pulling a code with a scan gauge but no codes where present and I also tried to reseting the battery by unplugging the ground cable for 10 minutes but no luck.
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I have a 15 Camry, and the other day after about five minutes of driving, the BSM (blind spot monitor) gave a long beep and then an error message to check the BSM showed on the instrument cluster. I tried to reset it while driving by turning the BSM on/off. This didn't work.
After restarting the car, it went away. I've never had a car with BSM, and didn't see any damage to the bumper.
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2013 2.5 liter. I took my car into the dealer for a grinding noise on cold start. Sounds kinda like the starter was engaged too long, some sort of grind that only happens after the car has been sitting for a few hours.
They replaced a camshaft VVT-i gear, said it's fixed, and now I swear the noise is louder. Is this just something to consider "normal" for the 2.5 liter engine?
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I go over a mountain pass, to and from work. It is about a two mile up and down incline/decline. On several occasions while going up the pass,the gas motor has rapidly accelerated at a high rpm. I back off the gas pedal and check the 'battery indicator bars' and there are none. I then drive very slowly to the top of the pass and the batteries quickly recharge on the decline to a color of all light green bars, indicating a full charge. Same experience coming home. Once I do normal town driving, the bars settle around 'four or five blue bars.' Local dealer says there is on problem. I am driving at 55 mph when this happens.
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I have a 2003 Ford Explorer with around 93,000 miles on it. I got the oil changed just before going on a long trip. It had been about 4,000 miles since the last oil change. My trip was about 3.5 hours in each direction with mostly highway driving where I was cruising at around 65-70 MPH but some long steep hills mixed in as well. On the way to my destination after cresting over one of these long steep hills, and going about 60 MPH while heading up the hill, white smoke started billowing out of the exhaust every time I hit the gas pedal.
I pulled over and white smoke was creeping off the muffler as well. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but opened up the hood anyways, and no smoke or anything in there. I let the car sit for about 5 minutes until the smoke stopped creeping off the muffler then drove the rest of the 30 minutes or so to my destination with no more problems.
On the return trip, the same thing happened (different hill) with about the same timeline. I was about 30 minutes out from home, had just crested over a long steep hill going around 60 MPH and the white smoke started coming out again every time I hit the gas. Pulled over again, waited for the smoke to dissipate and for no more to be coming off the muffler and finished my drive home with no problems.
I've only owned the car for about 6 months. I haven't encountered anything like this up to this point. And in the month or so driving it since the trip and incident, I have not seen any white smoke . There are no warning lights on, the temperature gauge looks completely normal. From what I have read online it seems like coolant would be causing this white smoke, but I can't figure out why it only happened on these two occasions. What is going on or what I should do?
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This my first toyota camry and noticed rear window defroster to take a long time to defrost morning mist from rear window. At 5 mins idle i start to see the defrost lines is this normal?? In my 14 accord rear window would be completely defrosted in 5 mins.
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I have a '97 F-350 with a 7.3L Powerstroke Turbo Diesel, I frequently haul a 27ft bumper tow trailer weighing upwards of 6,000 lbs, which by the way it tows beautifully, but if i am pulling up a long hill or have been on the pedal for a while and let off, then there is a grinding sound that sounds like it is coming from the turbo. My dad and i think it may be some sort of exhaust overflow valve from the quick decrease in rpm or maybe an overspeed on the turbo. No noticeable decrease in power.
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I was going up this huge hill today and had EV mode on and had 10 miles of EV. I noticed the EV kicked off and I assumed it was because of the hill. I kept the bar out of the power area. The car was warmed up already since EV was in prior to going up the hill
2 questions - Did the EV turn off because if the hill even though I didn't go into the power area? After the hill I went on a perfectly flat road and I could not get the EV to kick back in. I even went into the regen area and it still wouldn't. I toggled EV on off on and still nothing. It finally kicked in about five minutes later.
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I've noticed that my 2012 Passat TDI heats up a bit when going over a steep hill or mountain pass. When driving up steep hills I notice that the temp gauge climbs from the dummy position 190* to about 200*. Once I crest the hill the temp will go down and it won't go up again unless I go up another hill. Is this normal? I had assumed that the temp gauge was a dummy gauge like in most cars so seeing the temp actually climb has me concerned.
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Just yesterday I was driving my 2012 Cvic down a hill and the battery and oil light came on. Not but 5 seconds later as I came to the bottom of the hill my brakes went out (the car didn't cut off) so I pulled up the parking brake and cut the car off.
I started to call for roadside assistance but before I did I thought to try to start her up again and boom! Everything works fine! What could have caused this?? Computer system in the car? Brake fluid? Also just two weeks earlier I had full minor service on her. Tire rotation, oil/filter change, brake fluid added etc.
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My car has 219k miles and has been very loud and when i turn it on the rpm meter goes to 3 and gradually car quiets down and needle comes down to 1. While i drive the steering wheel vibrates too. I took it to the mechanic i was told that timing chain needs replacement as its about time. I was under the impression that timing chains do not need replacement.
The steering wheel vibrates (shakes) it makes light clicking sounds too. I have not been able to diagnose the problem by myself. I think these two things may not be related but engine is really loud. Does timing chain needs replacement? and if it does what else along with it should be replaced?
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With the days getting shorter, I have been leaving the lights on when I park the car in my garage, and rely on the auto-shutoff feature instead. However, today I found out (after someone told me several hours later) that my headlights were still on. As far as I know, if I leave the lights on, turn the car off, and lock it, it should turn off within a few minutes, correct (previous experiences seem to indicate this is right)?
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I have a 2012 Sonata for 4 years. In the past year I've experienced the ABS, Brake, TC lights staying on. Then had a bad battery and a headlight go out. Got all that done but after 4 months on new battery, it failed, and the 3 lights came on again. According to codes, dealer says the issue is a valve and they cannot give an estimate for repair but to tear down the valve and probe to find it, will cost me $132. That doesn't set well with me so I elected to drive on with lights on. They did say the battery & headlight issues were not related to the 3 lights staying on.
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My wife's Hyundai has the check engine light on and the engine temperature is staying right in the middle no matter the temperature outside, or if the car has been sitting an hour or over night. We're still under warranty, but are stretched for time in the coming week to stop by the dealer. I'm assuming it's a temperature sensor malfunctioning and the computer is throwing a code for that. Would this affect normal operation of the car until we can get it checked out?
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2012 F150 5.0L ... Running the stage 3 motorsports Tune on the SCT X4 device ... Noticed higher gear while going up a hill the motor is Pinging. Running 89 Sunoco fuel for two fill ups in a row and I have the 89 Performance tune loaded. It would not surprise me if the Gas station is selling 87 for the 89 Price!
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My 2001 Toyota Camry had an oil change and 80,000 mile checkup and drove home fine. We went out of town in someone else's car the next day for the weekend. Driving to work Mon, it began shuddering and the RPM needle was waving quickly between 0.5 & 1.5 rpm. This only continued to happen when my foot was off the gas, especially when stopping. It drove fine when accelerating & higher than 45 mph. I took it back to the mechanic and & said he found that the solenoid had gone bad & affected the idle, & also that with the solenoid not working my spark plugs had been burned. He changed it all out, and it works ok now for me, but my wife had a day a week later when it vibrated when she drove over 60mph. I used it today and had no problem. Is that likely that the solenoid would go bad w/out warning and affect the idle & spark plugs that way? Should I take it somewhere else?
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Since about 5000 km, I have had a knocking metal rattling sound happening when I accelerate up a hill or a slight incline. It has happened a few times on flat road as well just more prevalent on the uphill battles. Now I assumed it was jus something loose that was rattling since I installed a cold air intake and had installed hid lights(I thought the ballast was banging on something). I tried and tried to find the rattle but I had no success. I read up on here about other people suffering the same problem and that running higher octane gas would solve it well I tried 89 and it was still there just not as much and I recently started using 91 and its gone haven't heard it at all.
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