Camry 2012+ :: Humming Sound In Trunk Area - Stopped When Pressed Smart Key Button
Mar 4, 2012
I heard a humming (motor) sound coming from my trunk area today. Car was off since previous evening. Sounded like maybe electric fuel pump? It stopped when I pressed smart key button and is not doing it now, but......
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I just bought a 2012 toyota camry se with smart key. The trunk button on the remote opens the trunk, but the smart key button on the trunk lid does not open the trunk. I found a brown module unplugged the the left of the seat release handles in the trunk, I checked the wiring to the switch on the trunk lid.
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2012 SE 4 cylinder. Noticed the other day a humming noise from under the rear trunk area, maybe an evap test, seemed to be running for several minutes, I did key on/off and it shut off. How often does this run, is it a battery drainer?
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All of a sudden, my 2008 prius, basic package without the smart entry system, stopped locking or opening the doors when i pressed the button.
At first i thought it must be a dead battery, so i replaced it with a new one and got the exact same behavior. i checked the old battery and it was still giving off 3 volts as was the new one when i checked that with a volt meter. when i press any of the buttons on the key, a small led light goes on and on the dashboard a picture of a key lights up briefly. the owner's manual does not show the key as a warning light.
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We just got our 2012 Camry XLE about 1 month ago. Today, the smart key push start didn't work; the brake pedal seemed like it was seized, but the green (key) light did manage to come on, indicating it knew the key was there. When I pressed the start, all of the dash lights were flickering, but the car wouldn't start. Was towed to the dealer, who ran a diagnostic that indicated the battery had failed (the options for the diagnostic are pass, charge, and fail). They installed a new battery and it seems fine.
One of the doors wasn't completely closed overnight - would this have caused the battery to be done? I could see if it caused the battery to drain, requiring a boost / charge.
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I bought my car in 2012. Lets say I have my air on completely custom settings (temp, fan speed, mode). When I press the Auto button the fan speed automatically adjusts based on the temperature I have set, the mode always forces to feet only (sometimes feet and defroster) and the A/C light always comes on.
The only way to keep it in Auto mode while turning the A/C button off is to do the following: Press the Auto button, then press the A/C button to turn it off.
I am just trying to figure out the logic behind why Toyota would force the A/C light every single time the Auto button is pressed, even when it is 5 degrees outside.
So am I correct in turning the A/C light off when in Auto mode and using heat only or does the A/C light come on for a reason? Is it actually running the A/C compressor even in the winter?
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I just picked up 2007 LS460. I used the remote to open the trunk, but can't use it to close the trunk. Can only close by pressing the button on the trunk to close. When i press close on the remote, it beeps, but does not do anything.
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My trunk no longer unlock when I press on my remote, on the button inside the car or the button on the trunk. I have to open it with the key. My doors still works fine. What the problem could be?
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Is there a way to have the 2011 RX350 lock all of the doors/trunk automatically when I press the close buton on back of trunk?
Once I press trunk close button on back of trunk, it seems have to wait until it closes before I can lock he entire car and walk away?
If I press the lock button too early, I get the alarm.
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I love the car, but had a few small gripes, including ride firmness and road noise. Well, the ride firmness has definitely calmed down a great deal over the first 3500 miles to now I find it has a perfect balance of handling vs. comfort. It's firm, but the bumps are not as jarring as those first 500 miles or so. I'm very happy with it.
The 2nd issue I hd/have, is road noise... or rather... I think... suspension noise. It's a faint droning/humming sound that I think comes mostly from the rear. You can start hearing it at 20-30mph on all but the smoothest of roads. The noise seems to be *in addition* to the very, very minimal tire noise I hear from the very nice stock Michelins. The harsher the road, the louder the noise of course.
My guess (and it's only a guess?) is that the metal bushing ('pillow ball') in the rear along with the other firmer suspension parts are the primary cause of this noise.
So I have tried a couple of things to try and counteract this noise:
1) Put D'amplifier Pro in the trunk - Got down the bare metal and put the stuff all of the place back there... Above the wheel wells also.
This did not stop the noise I hear.
2) I then put some sound deadening foam mats above both rear wheel wells.
This did not work.
The strange thing is that this noise is pretty faint, but unmistakable... however if I move my head forward (say, right in line with the steering wheel) 2 feet.... I barely hear it. But when I move back to the normal driving position, there it is.
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While working on diagnosing my center console issue last night, my engine refused to start & I am completely lost as to what the issue is.
I hear a buzzing sound when I hit the brakes and push the button to start.
But all my headlights lights & interior electronics work fine.
I am so irritated as this happens on the SATURDAY evening and everywhere is closed on Sunday; hence I can't get the car serviced.
This is a brand new car w/ less than 2600 miles on it.
YouTube ....
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If the remote AC button is pressed in middle of winter does it turn on the heat and if yes, does it stay on long enough to actually get some heat going.
For example, if I press it while car is in the garage and it turns on (auto temp set to 70 when it's maybe only 25 in garage), if I go out in 5 or 10 minutes will it have actually heated things up a little? Hope so because that would be better than going into garage, starting it up and going back inside.
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I have 2007 mica LS, the key fob and trunk button on dash stopped working the trunk. The button inside the trunk will close it but i have to use the key to open it. I have taken battery post off and checked fuses, but not sure if I checked the correct one.
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I was wondering from the community if they ever hear a "motor" sound or like a "leveling" sound coming from the steering/instrument cluster area after you press the keyless start button (not starting the car). To me I was thinking it's like the car is maybe moving the steering column kinda like how luxury cars move the steering away to allow people to get in and out. But I don't believe the steering wheel is powered since I adjust it using the levers. Just wondering what this sound is for, worried something isn't right with that.
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I am hearing this buzzing sound in my trunk its really loud for ex: those annoying sounds people played as kids that people over "18" cant hear...back to the point its by my rear left tail light inside that area where all the wiring is also kinda hear it where the spare tire is all my lights work I unplugged the light and it still made the sound! It only does it when the car is running. Car is stock aside that it has no radio and the cd changer in the area that noise is coming from idk if its because a few wires that connect to the cd changer or what ever it is are unplugged but its coming from that area of the car its really high pitch and annoying.
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My 2012 Camry SE V6 has the smart key system and push button start. When I start the car, how can I lock it from the outside with the smart key on my person, to let it warm up? Or is the only option to use the manual lock/unlock buttons on the armrest to lock it and then close the door?
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I have had my '12 S for two weeks and love the car. I am just starting to figure out the car and what I want to update/upgrade. But the button on the driver's door isn't working. Before I take it to the dealer, for fear of looking stupid if the fix is simple, is there a fuse I should check or something else I'm missing that would prevent the button from opening the trunk? The fob works and if I use the handle on the truck it opens fine. If there is a fuse I should check?
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I contacted the factory and also a couple dealers. Officially, Toyota only offers the FOB and a valet key for the 2015 Camry LE w/o Smart Key. But I want a small, relatively inexpensive, water resistant, transponder key that looks like the valet key, but also opens the glove box.
My understanding is that the 2015 Camry and the 2013-2014 Rav4 both use the new "H" transponder keys.
are all Toyota "H" key blanks (ones w/o buttons at least) interchangeable?
Specifically, would the OEM "89785-0D170" "H" transponder key which I found online for the 2014 Rav4 work for the 2015 Camry too?
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My "Smart Master Key (type C)" falls apart too easily. I had the smart key together with my house keys, and so far I had to put it together twice. The last time all the little keys and one of the plastic cover fell down as I pulled it the key from its place on the steering wheel.
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Happened to go down to garage to get something from pip about 3 hours after charge was complete and noticed loud hum coming from right rear wheel well area.
We had not had any lightning storms, electrical interruptions or anything odd; house is on whole house surge protection, and 240v evse has been working fine.
Hum disappeared when car was booted up in ev for a moment and then turned off. Hasn't come back on in an hour.
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My MY2012 Passat 2.5 SE currently at 37k miles all of a sudden is showing clear coat peeling near the trunk/rear panel area. Car is a CPO and clean carfax (no accidents) and currently still under warranty. Planning on taking it back to the dealership and hopefully start a case for warranty work under VWoA.
I've never encountered clearcoat failure this early on, case in point my B5 (MY1999) still has excellent clear coat uniformity despite the paint/body being 17+ years old.
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