Just like the title says, getting crappy mileage. all my driving is city driving and on weekends i go on the highway for about 3 miles to get to work, i4 2013 camry getting 19.8 mpg, does that sound right for just city driving? Car has 6643 miles on it bought it in May 27th.
View 14 RepliesI'm at 9600 miles now and i noticed my gas mileage started going up---the last two fill ups with the same daily route:
23.9 mpg! in mixed highway and city driving! average speed 25-35mph for a typical trip!
Now, granted I've been driving gently...but that brought me to another exiting tid bit:
If I don't want to drive spiritedly (because I'm on the phone--hands free of course---or because I'm thinking about work)....this car is so smooth and comfortable....
I had a dodge charger before and that boat wasn't as comfortable nor as agile---by a ton! And then today....it's raining in fort worth....but that's no problem...no spinning tires at lights....amazingly better traction with AWD compared with my 1.8t!
My 03 2.7 has suddenly lost around 4 MPG in city driving. Haven't taken it out on the highway to know where that is at. Used to get around 20/21 and now I'm around 16/17. Mileage is at 97k now and has new spark plugs and brakes done recently. I know the brakes are not dragging. All the fluids are fairly new and the car drives the same as before, I can't feel a difference in performance. Just lower gas mileage. I haven't changed out the T-stat yet, but the temp gauge in car reads the same as always. I checked the car with a code checker and there are no pending codes. I know this is the age where the oxygen sensors could start to go bad and have never replaced them.
View 12 RepliesI'm so fed up with this Prius C. I did nothing but city driving and I got 302 for a tank at 8.247. It's going to the dealership to see if something is wrong. I haven't got over 369 on a tank before and that was highway driving.
View 19 RepliesI think I need my exhaust flex pipe replaced. My car sounds so old and crappy when accelerating. Is there anyway I can cut this out and replace it myself without welding? If I do need to take it somewhere can someone recommend a good replacement part? Here is a pic of it....
flex pipe camry 5.2.2015
Today, I experienced the coldest temperatures yet on my drive to work. At one point, I saw a '24F' shown as the outside temperature (although not unusual for April in Minnesota):
Expected: My gas mileage was down a bit. I was impressed it wasn't as bad as I would have expected from our 2005 Prius, though.
I should have expected: On the last 1/2 mile or so, when driving slow on the little bit of EV left while in the forced HV mode, I accidentally accelerated too much and forced on the ICE again (it had been previously on earlier in my 22 mile commute). This time, however, it was different because it didn't shut off immediately. I think the ICE had to do a second warm up. I'll have to watch that more closely next time (darn that cold weather)!
I have a 2012 with 5k miles. Starting near 3500 miles, the car started doing hard shifts when 'cold', e.g., when started after sitting overnight. As the engine warms over the first few miles, the shifting smooths out.
The shift behavior also occasionally presents when the engine compartment cools during normal driving. E.g., if I drive several miles at 45mph on a cool day, the airflow under the hood allows more cooling than when stopped at a light.
The cold shifts are getting harder as the mileage of the vehicle increases. Changing from 'D' to 'S' does not work for the problem.
After several rounds with the dealer, they connected me with a Toyota regional representative. He and I drove my car, along with several other 2012's on the dealer's lot, each with a different odometer reading from 2k to 10k. I have also driven a 2012 owned by my parents, that has 2k miles. The conclusion he and I both reached is that the 2012's have a common cold-shift problem that starts around 3k-4k miles, and worsens with mileage. The highest mileage car I drove (an XLE) had 10k miles, and its cold-start shift performance was terrible.
After a month, I'm still waiting to hear from Toyota about what they plan to do (if anything). What was the resolution?
I am having overheating problems with my car, I had the car in the shop where they replaced the headgasket, got the head machined, got the radiator rodded out, checked the water pump, replaced the thermostat tried three different ones. The only way they could get it to run without overheating after doing all of this was to run it without a thermostat. I ran it that way for a couple of months, but it is getting colder where I live so I put a new thermostat back in it, now I am having the same problems, it runs somewhat OK while driving, it does not heat up right away maybe after 30 mins or so at city speeds, however at lower speeds it starts to heat up. If i put it in neutral and increase the RPM's the temp gauge will drop down.
After stopping I can feel the hose coming out of the thermostat housing to the radiator and the hose is cool, so for whatever reason the thermostat is not opening, I drilled an 1/8" hole in the thermostat to let any air through that may be in the system. When I refilled the system I opened the bleeder screw that is above the exhaust manifold until antifreeze came out of it then I closed it and filled the rest of the way.
So I have heard that, it is only good to turn on the ECO mode when you are driving in the city or town. When you drive onto highway, you should turn ECO off. Any good explanation of what is the best method of using the ECO button?
View 26 RepliesMy 2005 Honda Accord randomly loses all power during city driving (25 MPH or less and sometimes while approaching a stop). The dashboard, radio, etc. go black, engine stops, and power steering and locks go out. The first couple times, it restarted immediately and drove fine. The past couple times, it did not restart right away.
After waiting a bit and taking the key out of the ignition, we were able to turn on the interior lights, A/C, and radio, and then the car started fine. The car was involved in a frontal collision a few weeks prior to all of this starting. The driver's headlight was damaged, and at least one fuse had to be replaced. We have taken it to the dealer several times. They ran diagnostic tests and drove it around, trying to duplicate the problem -- without success.
2000 Expedition. If speeds are under 40 mph and the air temp is above 85, my AC does not seem to work well. On the highway, it seems to work very well. Recently replaced with no change in performance:
Fan clutch
Water pump
Radiator
I've also degreased and hosed out the condenser. The AC system has been checked (by a friend with a set of gauges- but is not a professional) and a small amount of refrigerant was added. Still no improvement. Any obvious other things to check?
How I can charge my hybrid battery while driving on city streets with an average speed of 35-45MPH. Once I get off the highway, the hybrid battery is almost full, only missing two "bricks" or "Bars." I will then accelerate very slowly only using the electric motor to drive the vehicle for the next couple of miles.
Once the battery has depleted to where it only has two bars, I will then accelerate a little faster to run the engine so it can charge the battery. But, I bring up the energy monitor and then watch the arrows.. making sure that arrows are coming out of then engine to drive the vehicle AND making sure that the electric motor is not supporting the engine.
I have a 1994 Honda Civic LX. It has a new 4 month old radiator and the fluid level is good. When I do in city driving I have no real heat to speak of. But when I get on the highway the heat kicks back in.
View 5 RepliesI have a 92 Ford Taurus that runs warm, can overheat, especially in city driving. When driving at faster speeds with less stopping does not give any trouble. The radiator is full. I tried putting a new thermostat in and it overheat just the same. I took it out and it would run warm but not overheat. I flushed out the tranny. There are not leaks. Seems like water will come out to easy from the radiator cap. Thinking maybe it is blocked up some inside the engine. Can a water pump be kicking in and out at lower RPM's
View 15 RepliesWe've had our 2012 Camry LE 2.5L since October. In that time period we taken two 400 mile highway trips. The best mileage we've obtained is 28 MPG (hand calculated). That's all highway driving at 65-70 MPH. Needless to say, it's very disappointing. My 13 year old V-6 Mercury Sable wagon gets just over 30 MPG on the same trip.
In everyday driving it's only getting 24-25 MPG. That's mostly suburban/rural driving with some short highway trips mixed in. The car has just less than 10K miles on it, so things should be getting pretty well broken in.
Before I upgraded from my Windows Phone to an iPhone 6s, i was able to reply to a text while driving. I am wondering if this is a feature unique to the windows phone or if it is possible with the iPhone as well?
View 1 RepliesSo a few days ago until now I've noticed the transmission jerks as I am driving, like a slight stall and such. Could this mean my transmission is failing, I feel as if the car chokes. My car currently had 8900 miles, all highway driven.
While I was doing some reading, I noticed some people had their ECU resetted. Also my average mpg is 10 mpg on a v4.
I have a 2012 Camry and the Factory NAV system does not let me use the phone, GPS, etc. when the vehicle is in motion.
View 8 RepliesWhenever I start my car in the morning or when leaving from work, my A/C has a strong musty, moldy odor. It slowly dissipates as I drive (and switch to non recirculate). I haven't had the car but 4 months, but the odor is getting worse and worse.... I live in South Florida where the humidity is high, but never expected this!
View 14 RepliesI have a 2012 LE Camry 4 cylinder, and almost ready for the first service. I have an annoying vibration at 1150 RPM when driving. It does not matter if the AC is on or off. I have not discussed it with the dealer yet.
It is not a tire balance problem, it is engine related, and only there at a little less than 1200 RPM.
I recently bought a camry 2013 and I have a few questions.
-Some mechanical click sounds in the rear when navigating on tight turns at speed of 25 - 30 mph (the trunk is empty and there is nothing in th back seat)
-Transmission jerks when accelerating/decelerating between 25 - 45 mph speeds. If I accelerate from a stop and get up to 30/35 mph and go easy on the gas, then I can feel the transmission jerk (and get into a different gear ?).
-Occassionally the car seems powerless. This happens when the AC is turned on and the car refuses to increase speed on a level road and engine rpm at about 2300
-Mostly on highways, I keep pressing on gas and still the car doesn't pick up on speed.
-Remote doesn't function in the mornings. Every single morning. Have to click unlock a couple of times before it can work. It happens Occassionally during the day at any given hour.
-Occasionally Radio will restart for no reason.
-Can feel engine jerking (turning off with a thud) when turning off ignition
-Assisted braking works only between speeds 35 to 20 post which the braking by the engine will suddenly release.
To describe better this is what exactly happens: The car is travelling at 50 mph. To stop when I am applying little pressure on the brake pedal, say 10 lbs, the car begins to slow down, once it is in the 20 to 35 mph range, the brakes will behave like 15 lbs of pressure is being applied. Once the car is at around 20 mph, then all of a sudden the pressure will disappear and the car will come to a hault whenever it feels like stopping.
OR, from a speed of 35 mph take your foot off the accelerator and wait for the car to come to halt on its own. You can then feel how unstable the speed of the car gets due to this assisted braking not working properly ?
-Car seems unstable (shaking) sometimes while driving at over 70mph
-Never been able to get the advertised 35 mpg on highways.
-Many a times when I flick the indicator stick up (to turn the right blinker) there is a distinctive metallic 'click' sound like a washer/bush out of place. Same with the steering if I keep turning it all the way to left then it stops with a metalic click.
-The pasting of the interior (white colored) is coming off near where the left foot (dummy) pedal is.