Camry 2012+ :: Drone / Vibration Which Occurs When Engine At 1600 - 2000 Rpm?
May 7, 2015
2012 Camry SE 4 cyl, 56K miles ... Happens in all gears, in normal and sport mode “under light acceleration” at 1600-2000 rpm.
Sitting in driver’s seat I hear a drone which sounds similar to the engine lugging we hear briefly at around 1000 RPM. In the 1600-2000 RPM range it is very annoying because this is the cruising range on highways. Sometime when going up a slight incline it can be felt through the accelerator.
When seating in back seat on passenger’s side, it sounds similar to a bad muffler/resonator and is very audible. Spring loaded exhaust couplings in front of muffler and between front pipe and converter are not seized. All rubber hangers are there. Installed “B-quiet” sound absorber in trunk going from spare tire well over top of muffler and up rear quarter panel which did not work. Nothing is touching the exhaust under the car.
When idling the exhaust produces a noticeable putt-putt sound. Toyota rep (not dealer) went for a ride with me and feels it is typical of a car “for this mileage” (same as dealer told me). I stated it did not do it before and was told cars wear in and after a while characteristics change.
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My 2012 F250 6.2L (Gas) engine developed a noticeable drone/vibration when in drive between 1600 - 1800rpm. RPMs above and below that range is fine. But when accelerating, as soon as the RPMs reach 1600, you can feel a slight vibration through the gas pedal and a noticeable sharp draon/moan up till about 1800 or 1900 rpm, then its normal.
I took it to my ford dealer and took the service manager out for a test drive. He said that there is a drone and slight vibration withing that RPM range. He thought that the engine mounts may be loose. But aside all that, he felt something was off and wrote up the service order.
When to pick up the truck and now the service manager changes his tune and said that the drone is normal and happens on all 6.2L super duties.
To be honest, I have the feeling he is pulling my chain.
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Well Prii have always been a little "loud" under acceleration due to the CVT and small engine and minimal sound proofing, BUT We have 2 Priuses (Prii??), a 2011 with 41000 miles and a 2014 with 7k miles. My daughter got the 2011 to take to college. 1200 mile round trip so it made sense.
She maintains that for sometime, the 2011 is making more of the droning/roaring sound that a Prius makes when accelerating briskly. I did not really believe, her, but over holiday break, I had the opportunity to drive both cars more, and she is right.
The 2011 is clearly louder under acceleration. It also will develop a bit of a vibration at certain RPMs, even at very low RPM sometimes, when the economy bar is just beyond the electric mode.
The noise differential between 2011 and 2014 is most apparent at cold temperatures, but it does not resolve completely even with both engines fully warmed up.
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So, for some reason my 2004 has had a vibration ever since I bought it. This vibration occurs when in R or D when the car is not moving (stop light, parking e.g.). As soon as I accelerate the vibration goes away. After I bought the car I took it to the dealer to have them fix it and they replaced the engine mounts which made it a little better but not much. Recently the vibration has gotten significantly worse and I'm not sure why. I had the car into the dealer about a month ago to replace an A/C solenoid. Also, Tucson was hit by some torrential rain and I got caught driving through some water deep enough to nearly stall the engine out.
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I have a 2012 LE Camry 4 cylinder, and almost ready for the first service. I have an annoying vibration at 1150 RPM when driving. It does not matter if the AC is on or off. I have not discussed it with the dealer yet.
It is not a tire balance problem, it is engine related, and only there at a little less than 1200 RPM.
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I have recently found what sounds like a grinding/vibration issue that occurs between ~2100-~2300 RPM's in my truck. After some googling, I thought it may be the inspection plate being a bit bent/loose. I took the cover off and drove around and the noise still occurred.
Things I have noticed:
-Occurs between 1-2 and 2-3 (had trouble with the other gear changeovers as I just have slow backroads around me to test over my lunch break- can test further in the future)
-Occurs during acceleration and deceleration
-Starts at ~2100 and ends ~2300 RPM
Any thoughts for next steps to diagnose? Truck has ~160k on it and I don't really have many service records (purchased within the past 3k miles and problem just started occurring after this past weekend). Transmission fluid seems to be in decent condition.
Not sure if it would affect anything, but I just got back from my first trip with the Excursion where I actually needed to utilize the 4WD. There was much more aggressive terrain than what it is used to seeing on the pavement. Thought I should mention that as well.
V10, if that matters (I recall reading somewhere that '99 7.3s with the auto had documented torque converter issues that warranted a TSB)....
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I have a 2000 Passat 1.8T 5spd that today started stalling out. I start it up and it idles fine but when I go to give it gas, it stalls out at around 1600 RPM. My guess is that the Fuel pump may be bad, or i have got bad plugs or coils. It was running fine this morning but it just started doing this around an hour ago.
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I have what seems to be flat spots on both my rear tires. I've been getting a drone sound and vibration from the rear end and thought it was bad wheel bearings, but when I had it up on the lift the tech said my rear shocks are bad and caused this tire wear. The shocks aren't leaking and the handling seems fine...I don't get it.
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My car definitely has a driveline vibration, but the steering wheel also vibrates. All vibrations are, however, intermittent as to when they come and go, and the intensity - on both the chassis and the steering wheel - can also vary.
Tires and wheels have been ruled out with 99.9% confidence at this point... What puzzles me is how a driveline issue in a rear-wheel-drive vehicle can affect the steering wheel (even though it can certainly explain the shaking of the whole car). In the end, it's all connected to the same body, but still... I am even wondering if my car has this driveline vibration PLUS something else (e.g., control arms in the front suspension appear to be a popular replacement part in these cars according to other threads).
Here is a link to the TSIB that I borrowed from another thread: [URL] ....
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I am having trouble with my car hesitating when it sits between 1600 and 2000 rpm. My car does a rapid shake that is felt throughout the car. It lasts for 2 seconds and then disappears. It has been happening for a month now and it seems to be increasing in frequency. My husband doesn't believe it is a major problem and that it can wait.
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I have a 2001 Camry LE, 4 cyl, 2.2 liter, automatic transmission, 163Kmiles on it.
I'm hearing what sounds to me rather like a grindy sound at around 1400-1600 RPM. Initially the Camry seemed to do it only after getting into 2nd gear at about 10MPH, but now i see that it is associated with RPM and not the gear so much (the noise is less frequent and less loud in 2nd and 3rd gear- not noticing it ever at above that). I should say that the Camry has been making lots of noises since a new exhaust was put in by a cheap Bosnian shop.
It seems to only make that particular grindy noise when starting from a dead stop, but not if i was already coasting at all. So far as i can tell it seems to only happen about half the time- if I'm accelerating very slowly it doesn't seem to happen much. If i start climbing a hill after a dead stop it seems to come on fairly reliably.
It does not seem to make the noise when passing down through 1600 RPM while slowing down or revving down.
When i started the Camry up today, the noise cropped up well before i got to 8MPH (where it typically shifts into 2nd gear). Which is to say the noise appeared before it even started to shift out of 1st gear.
If i stay in Drive or Reverse and apply the brake so as to not go anywhere, the noise generally starts around 1600RPM. Since the car isn't moving, i think this might rule out the transmission. I hope.
However when in Neutral or Park and i bring the engine up to 1600RPM and beyond, the noise does not appear. So that's perhaps not so good. Of course my car idles a lot better/smoother in N and P than it does in D or R. It's rather rough idling in D and R.
I'm hoping maybe it's a vibration issue- something like harmonic amplification- where something only rattles in a certain frequency range. I pulled up next to a brick wall, kept on the brake, went into D and got up near 1600RPM and the reflected noise does strike me more now as maybe being less a grindy noise and more of a rattly vibration.
The Bosnian shop who fixed up my exhaust were too quick to dismiss the noises i heard after they worked on it. I think maybe something is loose. I hope. (I could feel air leaving the flexpipe's woven area itself but don't know if this is normal.)
Going up hills increases the likelihood of the noise appearing (so i take this to be suggestive that it IS the transmission).
However on a flat road if i hit the gas to quickly get up to 1600RPM before I'm any where near auto shifting out of 1st gear, the noise also usually appears (so i take this to be suggestive that this is not the transmission). I've also gotten the noise to not appear until well into 2nd gear.
The fairly-repeatable noise appearing in the 1600RPM zone regardless of my gear position gives me some hope that the xmission is not the source of the noise. So on balance, i think there's some indication it's the transmission, but there's also evidence that the source is other than the transmission.
The noise does not occur in Neutral or Park while revving up to 1600RPM. But then too, the engine, exhaust and vibrations always seem considerably less in N or P, as opposed to being in Drive (or Reverse). Why my Camry is quieter and more smooth in N and P as opposed to D or R? In the latter two modes, i imagine the transmission is engaged? And that the transmission is unengaged in P and N? And would that make the car louder or vibrate more, at least under certain conditions? Is the engine under less load in P and N?
And are noises at certain RPMs in D or R, but not in P or N indicative of Transmission problems? I notice the shop overfilled the transmission fluid every time i've had it changed.
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I just took off my 20" rims and put my stock rims back on for the winter but now I have a humming from the front end that starts at about 15mph and increases loudness to 40mph. At 40mph I can start to feel a light vibration in the wheel and through my feet.
My first thought was the wheels are not balanced but they are fairly new and barely used and where fine at the end of last winter. It just doesn't seem like that is the issue. As I was thinking about it more, when I had the 20"s on I remember thinking it seems like the road noise is considerable louder recently but I just passed it off as the low profile tires because they are in fact a lot louder than the stock tires. After putting the stock wheels on I was expecting to have my nice quiet and comfortable ride back like I always do during this time of year but not this time.
I tried driving in tight circles but I couldn't get the car going fast enough to see if it was a wheel bearing on one side.
It's an 04 camry XLE V6.
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I have been chasing a vibration that occurs around 60-70 MPH. Had all the tires re-balanced and checked the rest of the suspension and narrowed it down to the rear driveshaft.
Took the X to the driveshaft shop and he checked all the joints and suggested that I grease the slip joint as it still was original as delivered. Here's what I did.
Removed the rear bolts and dropped the rear of the shaft. Cut off the factory boot clamps. Marked the shaft so it could go back in the EXACT way it came out and removed the rear of the shaft with the boot intact. While the rear of the shaft was out I checked the joints and found them to be perfect.
There was no real grease to speak of left, just the factory ford blue. Filled it and the splines with moly grease and re-installed the shaft and boot. Clamped the boot with nylon ties (per his suggestion). No vibration any longer. Thought I would post this up as a quick tip.
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I got a 87 Toyota Celica 1600 GT, with a TVIS 4A-GE engine in.
My problem: when i just start the engine cold, it revs to 2500 RPM, and stays there for 1-2 minuttes and then falling to about 1500 RPM, and when the engine is completely warm my idle is about 1000 RPM.
first i think that 2500 RPM cold is a bit to much, and i dont know what to do with it. but my biggest problem is when the engine is fully warmed up, and i rev it to lets say 3000 RPM and then lets the gas of, the engine falls to about 500 RPM sometimes it stalls but if it not stalls then it would slowly gain some RPM and then it goes up to 1000 RPM again.
How can i prevent the engine falling that much when i let the gas off? it's quite annoying when i drive the car and comes to a stop it sometimes stall.
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I have a 96 ford escort, 1.9. Recently I've noticed I get a pretty good vibration coming from the front end.
The vibration only occurs when I'm accelerating over 50. When I decelerate over 50 the vibration goes away.
What could be causing this?
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Picked up a used 10 prius iv with 31k and have put 1200 miles so far. One troubling thing I have noticed is this weird shudder/vibration that occurs between 30-40mph when the throttle is at the half way point (area between the light green and dark green bar) Vibration similar to that of driving over the rumble strip on the highway but not nearly as harsh and the noise would be similar to when you have one rear window open in the car and it creates the pulsating wind noise.
It doesn't do it all the time and mashing the throttle seems to alleviate the problem. It doesn't happen so much when cruising around town but it happens every time I get near the top of the incline in our office park and the car continues to lose speed until such time as I get back on the gas but it continues to do it until I turn into the parking lot. Occasionally it does it when coasting down a hill with the throttle right near the point of crossing from light green to dark green on the screen.
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I have a 2012 Camry SE with Bridgestones. I've had it in to the dealer twice for a vibration at 60 - 75 mph in the steering. They've replaced two front tires, balanced all four tires both times, and the vibration is still there. It's very noticeable on smooth roads but no so much on repaved (tar and chip) roads. The car also wanders at highway speeds. They've tried adjusting the tire pressure from 35 to 32 which affects the ride and gas mileage but doesn't affect the vibration. The problem seems worse when the tires are up to temperature which increases the tire pressure. I'm not real happy with this brand new car. It only has 1500 miles on it.
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I have been picking at an engine vibration for more than a year.
I have a '00 Explorer 302 V8 installed in an '82 Volvo. This engine/transmission has not been abused and only has 15k miles since it left the Ford factory. It was found intact on a pallet in dry storage. Everything was there as from Ford from the fan to the transmission output bushing. There is an engine vibration beginning about 2000 rpm in PARK so the problem is not in the transmission or drive shaft.
Perfectly smooth at idle and until you approach the start of the vibration.
Replaced the viscous clutch mechanical fan with duel electric so it isn't an out of balance fan.
Pulled the serpentine belt this afternoon and still have the vibration. Might have been a little less and I did find a idler pulley that had a little rattle but the big vibration is still there with only the harmonic balancer through torque converter rotating.
Replaced the pulley. Nothing else changed from when Ford built it.
No OBD codes.
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I just bought a 2012 camry about two months ago, and now I'm starting to feel some vibration while I'm driving. It seems to only happen when I'm driving between 30 and 50mph, and I am accelerating. For example, I can be cruising at 40mph and go to accelerate and I'd start feeling the vibration. It doesn't happen every time, but enough to know its something wrong. Also I can gas it 0 to 50 and feel no vibration at all. Or I could be cruising between 30 and 50mph, and gas it, I still wont feel it. Like I said it happens the most when I'm cruising between 30 and 50mph, and only when I slightly go to accelerate.
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A coworker has asked me to take a look at their 2013 Camry LE, 48,000 miles. It has a quite annoying vibration at idle and only when in reverse or drive. AC is not running this time of year, but does get worse if the compressor is turned on.
I'd like to think the trans and engine mounts are fine. It does not have any noticeable torque converter shudder. I have cleaned the throttle body, not that dirty, but not much improvement.
I suggested that he try different brands and grades of gas to see if matters improved at all - Shell 89 seems to be a slight improvement over what is normally used (just 87 from Costco, Sunoco, or Hess), but nothing substantial.
Spark plug change, decarbonizing top end?
Spark plugs look about like I'd expect an iridium plug to at these miles - no signs of oil burning, not tons of carbon, etc. I didn't get a real good look at the piston tops.
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I have a 2012 camry se v6, with about 56k miles. It has been lowered on H&R springs since 20k miles. I recently got new rims, but used my old tires. I developed a high speed vibration. I got it aligned twice, and balance twice. But i still can not get rid of this vibration?
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