Camry 2012+ :: Cold Shifts Are Getting Harder As The Mileage Of Vehicle Increases
Oct 23, 2012
I have a 2012 with 5k miles. Starting near 3500 miles, the car started doing hard shifts when 'cold', e.g., when started after sitting overnight. As the engine warms over the first few miles, the shifting smooths out.
The shift behavior also occasionally presents when the engine compartment cools during normal driving. E.g., if I drive several miles at 45mph on a cool day, the airflow under the hood allows more cooling than when stopped at a light.
The cold shifts are getting harder as the mileage of the vehicle increases. Changing from 'D' to 'S' does not work for the problem.
After several rounds with the dealer, they connected me with a Toyota regional representative. He and I drove my car, along with several other 2012's on the dealer's lot, each with a different odometer reading from 2k to 10k. I have also driven a 2012 owned by my parents, that has 2k miles. The conclusion he and I both reached is that the 2012's have a common cold-shift problem that starts around 3k-4k miles, and worsens with mileage. The highest mileage car I drove (an XLE) had 10k miles, and its cold-start shift performance was terrible.
After a month, I'm still waiting to hear from Toyota about what they plan to do (if anything). What was the resolution?
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Three days ago while stopped at a light the car creeped forward forcing me to press harder on the brake to keep vehicle from moving.
Next day drove for 100+ miles with some stop and go traffic no problems. Third day drove 50 miles and upon arriving at home brakes felt spongy and nearly hit the floor the dash illuminated "Check Brake System".
My Camry has 5437 miles on it.
The dealer just called and said they need to replace a "brake booster". They said there is a TSB that addresses this issue in a VIN range.
Image here : YouTube [URL].....
I'm glad I was only stopping to pull into my drive way and not the freaking stop and go freeway traffic on the way to work in the morning.
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I normally drive my 2010 Prius. But I have been driving my wife's 2012 Camry XLE the last couple of days. (My Prius was clean and hers was not.
Well twice in the last two days I started her car and put it in drive to find it was accelerating uncontrollably! The harder I pushed on the brake the harder it accelerated.
After taking my foot off of the brake I discovered that my size 13 EEE shoe was on both the brake AND the accelerator.
Now knowing this, the same thing happened the second day! Luckily They both happened in parking lots and NO damage was incurred!
This has never happened in my 10 Prius or my 08 Prius. maybe the pedals are not as close or the Prius's low end power was not noticeable.
It would be ironic if all the BS over the floor mats came down to big feet or improperly placed pedals. My feet have been the same size for 50 years and many cars and NEVER had this occur before.
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2007 Camry LE 2.4
I just replaced the rear pads and rotors with no issues other than having to bang the cr@p out of the left rotor with a hammer to get it to come off. Now at pretty much all speeds I am hearing a rythmic humming-type sound that increases and decreases with vehicle speed. It's not a constant hum but more like one-hum-per-tire-revolution type of sound. It is coming from the left side as far as I can tell.
Thinking I had damaged the wheel bearing (and after searching the forums extensively) I replaced it with a brand new bearing from Advance Auto Parts. I re-checked the pads, rotors, all bolts, everything is lubricated properly, etc. Just took it out for a test drive and the noise is still there. Sometimes it gets louder when breaking but not always. I rotated tires and the sound did not follow the tire. The pads aren't stuck or rubbing excessively as far as I can tell.
This sort of thing has happened in the past on the left rear. It would sometimes happen when I swapped the summer tires for my winter tires on steelies, the left rear would make the humming sound, I'd take the wheel off and put it back on 180 degrees rotated and the sound would go away. I've done that a few times too and it has not worked.
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We have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD LTD with about 140, 000km on it. It recently came back from front suspension work. The suspension is fine now, but we notice harder shifts in the transmission. Also, there seems to be a vibration just before shifting gears and when under load (like going up hill) seems to slip (like on ice) about once every second until the shift is made. Once the shift is made it drive smoothly until put under pressure again. Even stepping down a bit on the accelerator will cause this slipping feeling (or maybe its loss of power).
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My 12 Escape with the 3.0, shifts fine in warm weather or in cold weather when warmed up. But first thing on a cold morning she's a bit of a screamer getting into the next gear. Is this a signal of something about to go wrong? Is there an easy adjustment? Or this is the way of it and it is fine......
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Today, I experienced the coldest temperatures yet on my drive to work. At one point, I saw a '24F' shown as the outside temperature (although not unusual for April in Minnesota):
Expected: My gas mileage was down a bit. I was impressed it wasn't as bad as I would have expected from our 2005 Prius, though.
I should have expected: On the last 1/2 mile or so, when driving slow on the little bit of EV left while in the forced HV mode, I accidentally accelerated too much and forced on the ICE again (it had been previously on earlier in my 22 mile commute). This time, however, it was different because it didn't shut off immediately. I think the ICE had to do a second warm up. I'll have to watch that more closely next time (darn that cold weather)!
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When cool to cold my 13 2.5L Camry SE 12k miles has shifts that are 'crisp' (not meaning that is good). It I s like it rides up to an rpm and throws on the clutch and the RPMs drop by 200rpm and then she pulls into gear. No slamming but feels like a sports car driver changing gears with just a moment of that 'transition float' between gears cause by physically moving a clutch pedal. An actual noticeable shift feeling and a moment of floating 1/2 second transition. Is this 'flare'?
I guess I could just say this... It feels like it is truly 'going between gears' rather than the typical slush sliding into gear like most all automatics do.
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This week I noticed a sound that sounds low that increases then the vehicle goes faster and decreases when it slows down. It is not wheel bearing noise. Took a doctors type scope and put it on the pulleys listening for the bearing noise in each pulley and found my alternator pulley making more noise than usual, My car needs new accessory belts so I ordered 3 new belts and will be replacing them soon. I am hoping the noise is from worn belts and not the alternator. If it is the alternator its going to cost me 250 bucks for a rebuilt one. I'm not sure if I can tear the alternator apart and replace the part bearing part. Have to look into this. Is this normal for a car with 161 thousand klm for accessory belt bearings on items to start to go bad? I sure hope the water pump and power steering and ac compressor and ac tensioner last. These all have bearings in them as well.
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Just like the title says, getting crappy mileage. all my driving is city driving and on weekends i go on the highway for about 3 miles to get to work, i4 2013 camry getting 19.8 mpg, does that sound right for just city driving? Car has 6643 miles on it bought it in May 27th.
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I have a 2002 Camry 4 cyl LE with a 4spd automatic transmission. Recently I have been experiencing slow long shifts from 1-2 and 2-3. It's as if it is coasting in neutral for a couple of seconds before finally engaging the next gear. I experience this sensation only after the vehicle has cooled down. The transmission will start to shift like normal within 3 miles of driving. I have only experienced this recently as the weather has started to drop.
I have not changed my transmission fluid much as it is a synthetic and Toyota claims it will last the life of the car. I did a drain and fill at 90K mi. The car currently has 150K mi on it and after experiencing these problems I did a drain and fill, drove the car 10 miles and repeated with another drain and fill. This seemed to have worked on the first day after doing this but now it is back to the slow long shifts. I am thinking of cleaning the strainer and taking the car in to have the transmission flushed. Is there a way to tell if my transmission is failing?
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This car runs rough after forward gear shifts unless I give the accelerator a push. Seems like problem is at lower RPM after shift. This condition improves after 30-40 miles. About 60K miles now.
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I've always wondered why the transmission automatically shirts to 4th gear when I switch to sport mode! Is this normal??? It's an i4
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I have two Remote car keys for Toyota Camry 2012 vehicle. I lost one of them. I am worried if someone has that key and they can steal my car without breaking. FYI, I used to park in the Railway station where the parking is not secured.
I am thinking of two ways. One is to disable the lost remote key, so that no one can use it. Second way is to deactivate the remote sensors in the car so that no can lock or unlock the car with the remote. Just lock and unlock it manually.
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I traded in my '03 Camry for a '16. In my '03 Camry, if I did not lock the doors after closing them and walking away, they would automatically lock after 30s-1min. I can't seem to get my '16 Camry to do the same thing. I found the "Auto Lock Timer" feature in the "Vehicle Customization" of the ETune Audio System display. I tried setting it to 30s or 60s and standing outside of the car, but the doors do not lock, even after 5 minutes. What I can do to get them to lock automatically?
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I have done some reading of past threads regarding both Gen 7 Camry with people having an issue with a strong smell coming from their vents after perhaps 1K miles or less on their vehicle. Looks like some people had it fixed (some fixing it by themselves) while others continued to experience the problem. Similar thread regarding Toyota Camry Hybrid but only brief thread. Then another thread regarding perhaps another smell like from plastics /battery (?) in Prius while I was on the Prius threads.
Has this problem been addressed/resolved either by Toyota or by owners who simply fixed it themselves? I also do not know if the Prius offensive odor (someone who was testing them noticed it while test driving) is a totally different thing (like I say someone said it was from plastics or battery itself, not sure.... )
These are things I never even thought of /considered when looking for a new vehicle, and never experienced in my older Camry.
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Sometimes my door chime will elert when I shut my car off (push button start ignition) and I notice the flashing key on the dash flashes yellow. It doesn't happen all the time however. Is this a sign that my key fob battery needs replacement?
2012 V6 Camry owner
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In cold weather at low rpm's, my truck has poor acceleration until the rpm's increase and it takes off. I replaced spark plugs, wire, cap, and rotor.
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The colder it gets the harder it takes to start my 2000 Ford Explorer. Have read that it's the Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
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I have a '95 pontiac grand AM with about 208,000 miles on it. About a week ago, i noticed it was getting harder to start when the engine is cold. When the engine has warmed up, it starts up right away, however, the engine begins to sputter and sounds as if it is going to die. The engine still sputters while driving and the car begins to jolt back and forth. When I come to a stop, the car sounds as if its going to shut off. Today, I started the car and it was sputtering so I turned it off and then wasn't able to start it for about 40 mins. I let the car sit for about 20 mins and then tried it, started right up. What could be causing the sputtering and engine throbbing? What's wrong?
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So I have an '03 6.0 with 151000 and change. I go out to light her off in the morning and she fires quick and easy. Idles well and no complaints. But when hot shes sluggish to start. Now it's not what I would call a typical hard start considering I've watched videos on YouTube and guys are having a lot harder of a time then me getting theirs started. It's just not the same as cold it almost sounds like it's lacking fuel cause it starts real low after fire then with a couple revolutions it perks up. And this is without the key still in it. Again no idle or running issues at all. I've been trying to see if it could be my ipr? My ficm is new and never gets below 47V but idk what it is.
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