Camry 2012+ :: Bypass NAV Lockout When Moving On XLE?
Dec 14, 2014
how to bypass the navigation lockout on the 2015 Toyota Camry XLE
View 5 Replieshow to bypass the navigation lockout on the 2015 Toyota Camry XLE
View 5 RepliesI just noticed yesterday that the center console is moving a bit when I apply pressure to it. Seems like a screw or something is loose. Luckily there is no vibrating while driving yet, so it's livable for now but I would like to fix it.
Here's a video showing the movement when I lightly push on the piece:
It's even worse when I put my entire weight on it, like when reaching for something on the passenger side floor. I don't want to rip the entire thing out one day
My headlights seem to be off. The beams are spread too far apart, leaving a dark spot right in the middle. It is a 2016 and I just noticed it tonight. I have been trying to find the horizontal adjustment. Is this it? I have tried to turn it but did not notice any difference. Which way am I suppose to turn the left and right one to have the beams move closer to each other?
View 7 RepliesOver the last two weeks I've had a couple instances where I'm moving around 30mph and I gently accelerate, you can tell that the engine/transmission is about to downshift and while pushing the accelerator just slightly you can feel the car shutter (not terribly noticeable) not accelerate as well as a noticeable amount of blue smoke will come out of the exhaust. It's happened twice now. After a few seconds the car will return to normal and the smoke stops.
Camry is a 2012 SE, 4cylinder, 31,000 miles. It's had the torque converter software update. No lights on the dash. I've also stopped after this happened and the engine sounded normal, oil level is normal.
Three days ago while stopped at a light the car creeped forward forcing me to press harder on the brake to keep vehicle from moving.
Next day drove for 100+ miles with some stop and go traffic no problems. Third day drove 50 miles and upon arriving at home brakes felt spongy and nearly hit the floor the dash illuminated "Check Brake System".
My Camry has 5437 miles on it.
The dealer just called and said they need to replace a "brake booster". They said there is a TSB that addresses this issue in a VIN range.
Image here : YouTube [URL].....
I'm glad I was only stopping to pull into my drive way and not the freaking stop and go freeway traffic on the way to work in the morning.
I just want to circualate air. Everytime, I increase the speed of the fans, automatic temperature control kicked in. What is the proper way to bypass Temp control (no heat or AC)?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 camry and was wondering if I need a bypass module to install an alarm and remote start. Its an Autopage C3 rs-1100...
View 5 RepliesI'm having a problem with my GTI. Trying to use the security lock out but It's not working. I'm thinking the problem is my code starts with a 0 and i'm not sure how to put that digit in. How to put this number in?
View 5 RepliesNot near my truck at the time and wondering if I can install one of these switches. I don't know where the 2 positive battery cables meet.
View 6 RepliesI've got an '04 F250 4x4 gasser with a 4R100 tranny. I was driving home from work earlier when I noticed the overdrive lockout light was on. Not flashing, but steady like I'd accidentally locked out the O/D. I pressed the button to turn it off, but it stayed on and the O/D locked out for real. WTF?......I pressed it again, the light stayed on, but the trans shifted back to 4th like it's supposed to. I was near freeway speed, so I kept an eye on the tach for a few miles. Everything looked normal, except maybe the converter lockup seemed a bit sloppy whenever it downshifted/upshifted on a hill. That could be my imagination, though. I was in full AWACS mode by then, watching everything like a hawk.
Then I started wiggling the shifter a bit. I pushed the lever down against the detent, and the light went off. I let it go and it came back on. I did this a few times with the same results. It didn't affect the tranny operation. I pulled the lever back toward me like I was going to shift, and the light went out. I let it go and the light came back on. By this point I think I can rule out any major tranny problems as it seems the problem is in the wiring to the light, not to the O/D lockout circuit itself. I was thinking maybe a short to ground somewhere. What controls the lockout light, never had to deal with one before. I'm hoping for a easy answer before I tear into the steering column and start poking around in the harness.
I've bought a brand new 2012 Prius C 3.
This morning I was trying to back out of a parking spot and put it on a reverse after starting my car. As soon as I my car started moving forward and hit the curb right in front of the car. I couldn't believe my eyes so I put the gear back to Parking and back to reverse, and as soon as I touched gas, it again accelerated forward.
I noticed since day one that my 2014 PiP radio is more static than my 2006 Prius. I also noticed that when I started moving in ev only, the radio volume level would drop. Well, I never really thought about it why till I got LED headlights. Now, the static is worst due to RF interference from the LED. So, it looks like there were more interference due to the ev electrical system. With the LED headlight, it made it worst. I have put a choke on the leads of the headlight, but it does nothing.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2012 GTI Autobahn, w/automatic, bought it w 7k miles on it and it was chipped. It runs great and is crazy fast. But, it has a lag in acceleration SOMETIMES when moving and coasting slow in traffic and then pouncing on the accelerator to change lanes, the accelerator is flat like its not getting fuel. It wouldn't do it when the dealer mechanic drove it.
View 2 RepliesWhen my car is still and not moving it is quiet, and the noise does not exist.
As soon as the car starts moving, the noise starts and speeds up and slows down with the speed. The noise is there when i brake or when I don't brake, so I don't believe it has anything to do with the breaks.
To me (who knows nothing about the mechanics of a car) it seems like the wheel is not sitting on the road evenly.
I took it to the Toyota service centre and they said that they found a piece of loose metal somewhere and they can't hear any noise. But the noise was still evident as soon as i got back in the car and drove off. They checked the car over, and said it's fine.
I drove my brothers brand new Rav 4 to see if perhaps I am being overly sensitive with this sound and perhaps maybe it is just the sound of the tire on the road, but his car made no such sound.
It's not overly evident. I have to point it out to people, but once they hear it, they also say that it shouldn't make that sound.
My wife and I test drove a 2012 Avalon Limited at our local dealership. It was a demo that they were selling as a new Toyota at a $5,000 discounted price.
We loved the TAL but we found that moving of the automatic stick shift to be a little bit awkward. This bothered my wife more than me. We had to move the auto shift stick from side to side and then forward and backward to go between Park, Reverse, and Drive.
On our 1988 Toyota Supra that we still love to drive, the auto shifting between Park, Reverse, and Drive, and the lower Drives is easy. You just move the automatic stick shift forward and and back to change gears. It was the same on our 1988 Toyota Celica GTS, another wonderful car that we sold to a friend recently.
We should have asked the salesman about the automatic transmission stick shift but we asked lots of other questions instead.
So what can you share with us from your experience? Did you get used to moving the auto shift stick from gear to gear easily? Is there a safety reason for this shifting alignment?
I have a 2012 Volvo S60 with an intermittent problem. Sometimes when I am moving slowly (probably 5 to 10 mph) and turning the wheel, I'll feel a thumping under my feet (more to the left side of the floor). It has happened when I start moving, but I seem to notice it more often as I'm stopping -- perhaps only because I'm more likely to be turning at slow speeds when stopping (e.g. pulling into a parking space).
The dealer looked for the problem, but found absolutely nothing. This has been going on for over a year now and I'd like to figure it out in case I'm heading to a bigger problem. Btw, when I say intermittent, it may happen a few times over a day or two, then nothing for the rest of the month.
A problem just popped up yesterday. 09 Camry, 2.4L, SE, about 178k on the odo. Started out as a slight hesitation when trying to accelerate from a stop, hardly noticeable, in the am. As day progressed it got much worse (very little driving but about 3 to 4 trips). By night the car wants to die upon first start up. Engine will rev higher, then drop, then rev, and will drop way low and stutter and die if I don't feather gas. Very bad hesitation today when trying to get moving. This morning it was revving high, low, high, low (high meaning a little over 1000), then dropped, stuttered and died. Cranked again fine.
My in gear idle rpm is about 650. I will be checking the plugs and throttle body later today as several months back I had issues that seemed to be related to those. I have my suspicions, but want to get opinions. I filled up the tank yesterday morning. Was about 14 degrees yesterday morning, warmed up to around 30. In the 40s today. Engine does get to normal temp, all that fun jazz. I am thinking shitty gas....?
I'm having issues with my 09 Camry. Yesterday my water pump shoot craps on me. SO this morning I replaced the water pump. After replacing the water pump I noticed that the heat would work only when the car is moving. So I went to the store again and bought a thermostat. Replaced that and the heat still only work when the car is in motion. So I checked the radiator cap it was bad I was able to hold it in my hand and spend it with the other hand. Ok replaced the radiator cap. I let the car sit at idle running and the heat worked shortly then it started to blow cool again. I checked the radiator hoses and the lower hose was cold right along with the thermostat housing.
View 10 Replies2002 Camry with check engine light steady on and car shutting off when coming to a stop. Diagnostics revealed error codes P0440, P0441, P0446, P0442 indicating evaporation problem. Found broken closed canister valve. Had valve replaced and check engine light went off. Technician says VSC/TRAC lights were on also when he pulled the car in.
They had not been on before. Now the VSC/TRAC lights are coming on and staying on when the car starts moving. The code is c1336, something about yaw rate sensor. Is there something that still needs to be reset or does this mean that the sensor is bad and what and where is this yaw rate sensor?
I have a 2006 Camry and the front driver seat is making a rubbing/friction noise when moving it forward and backward- mainly in the back half track, and of course it is worse when sitting on the seat.
I checked closely and it seams that the seat has a little wiggle side to side when moving on the track. Not sure if this is normal (the wiggle) and if it just needs lubrication, or a track adjustment? It started last week and sounded worse yesterday when sitting on it.
The motor and all other seat functions work/sound fine.
I have a 1988 Toyota Camry. I was driving to work this morning, the car was driving fine. After about 10 mile or so, I stopped at a red light, when the light changed the car wouldn't accelerate it seemed to have a really bad hesitation. If i let off the gas it would idle fine, none of the warning lights are on. However, when I give it more gas the car doesn't have any power at all. It has plenty of gas in it and the exhaust has no signs of any oil or water in it. I was thinking it may be a bad fuel filter or a tank of bad gas.
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