I have found on my new 2016 Camry XLE that on cooler mornings of 50 degrees and the engine is hot, when I set the AUTO button on and set the temperature to 70 degrees, the system blows out cold air through the top vents. I have to run the temperature up to 75 to receive warm air from below. Is there a way for the dealer to change the settings to warm at lower temperatures???
View 5 RepliesI have a 98 camry 4 cylinder and only on cold mornings after engine starts, right then I hear a one time hump or a poot like noise near the belt area /passenger side. I've changed out the powe rsteering fluid but still does it.. never does it when warm or again after driving, only on cold mornings.
View 2 RepliesI can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2012 limited (non tech pkg) and I want to see if my speakers are the only ones that have a buzzing to them during cold mornings? Once it warms up, the speakers tend to be better. I have the power bass on low and I usually listen to AM radio in the morning. Kind of hard to explain but there is a buzzing rattle noise when the sound reaches a high point. It isn't a constant noise but rather dependent on the sound.
View 1 RepliesI bought a 2005 Camry about 3 months ago. It has the 2.4l 4 cyl with about 139k miles. The car seems to run perfect, but it has a rattle noise right at start up on cold mornings. It only lasts for the initial 1/2 second start up, then it's gone. I'm thinking it's probably just a heat shield rattle or something, I just did a full synthetic high mileage oil change on it and that didn't work, so that just makes me lean more towards heat shield.
View 14 RepliesMornings are cooler now in connecticut. I mention that at cold start my Prius C idles pretty rough.
View 3 RepliesCan I use the remote climate control switch to heat the cabin during cold mornings as well as cool the cabin during hot summer days?
View 8 RepliesIt is a Camry 2005 3L 1MZ-FE engine, 100K KM on the clock. In the cold mornings, I hear noise from the timing belt area for about 3-4 minutes then the noise reduced. But I can still hear some noise all the time. From what I read, it appears that the hydraulic tensioner (tensioner idler pulley, NTN 13540-20030) is bad. Plus, I can feel that the car does not take off as fast as another older Camry with timing belt replaced (everything else is good with this Camry 2005)
My questions are:
1. Is it possible that only the tensioner is bad, not the timing belt to make the noise or both of them need to be bad?
2. If it is the case that only the tensioner is bad, is it possible to replace the tensioner only without changing the belt and other part (I mean without removing the crank pulley and other parts)? I don’t want to replace everything if I don’t have to.
I picked up my 460 a couple of months ago with 26K miles (2013 base model), and I have noticed on cooler mornings a buzzing sound coming from the glove box area.
The odd thing is that the volume of the sound is related to how hard I am accelerating (step on it harder, it gets louder).
My first thought was that it was climate control related (seems to only happen on mornings below 60 degrees - cold for California SF bay area), but turning that off while the sound is happening makes no difference. Also not part of the sound system.
The sound itself goes away after about 1 mile of driving (I assume the engine has warmed up enough by then?), and never happens in the afternoon, or if it is a warmer morning.
Been having another strange issue(2011 gti) but after searching it seems 50% of people say it's normal. The car starts to warm up and finally reaches dead center 190, then until the car is fully warmed up I notice the temp gauge will drop a bit sometimes go back up then down a little again until the car is fully warmed up then it's fine for the rest of the day. I think it may be normal but the dealer wants to replace the thermostat anyway which requires a ton of other parts to be moved. Looking for opinions if its just how it works and have never noticed before or is it maybe my thermostat beginning to stick??
View 7 RepliesOn cold mornings here in California, like most older cars with high mileage, it makes some ticking/valve sounds until I fully warm up my car after a mile or two of driving. At that point, the sounds disappear.
I've noticed that if I blip the ignition or turn over the engine without starting the car, when starting up on cold mornings, it doesn't make valve lash noise or ticking when I pull out of the garage.
I chalk it up to the fact that I "threw" some oil on top the head before starting up the engine fully. I've only done this maybe 5 times since I found out.
Car: 99 Civic w/ 217k+ miles.
The a/c on my '05 Camry still puts out cool air, but not really cold anymore. I compare with my '08 Highlander that can still freeze your arms off in no time. We have had a warm spell lately, which is supposed to continue for another week, and while the Camry is putting out enough to eventually cool the air, it's just not up to it's usual standard. Are these a/c systems supposed to be sealed, and if so, is a leak the most likely reason ? I have not had it serviced in the past 3 years I've owned it. Is it worth it to try the "do-it-yourself" canned a/c service bottles or should I get the system pressure checked out first ?
View 6 RepliesThere was a TSB for 2AR engine, Engine Knock/Rattle Noise at Cold Startup. My question is for those I4 camry owner, do you have these rattle sound when you start your vehicle at cold? I am not sure if mines have the same issue, but pretty sure is I can't find any differences between mine and this clip:
You Tube
So should I take it to the dealer? Or it's normal?
[URL] .....
I start noticing a weird noise upon cold start up. It sounds like something is grinding. First goes starter sound and then engine noise together with this grinding noise. Grinding noise goes away within sec. or so. It is not really loud, but it definitely not engine or starter sound.
It happens only on cold starts when engine is completely cold. If I start engine, let it run for few minutes, shut it down and restart again, it starts without grinding noise. Don't remember if car was doing it from beginning, never turned car while I was outside. Few weeks ago when temperature dropped below freezing point, I turned ignition through passenger door to warm up the engine.
After that I begun listening every start up. Every start up same noise. Every morning and every time after work I hear this noise. No noise if car been driven recently or engine is still warm.
Not my car, but sound is identical : [URL] ......
I own a 2007 Camry LE. It's 4 cylinder and has 80k miles. Since I can remember, the A/C takes a really long time to start blowing cold air.
I'm in Miami, where ambient temp is about 90 F every day and it takes about 2-3 minutes to blow cold air. I can tell because this usually happens when I get around a certain street (SW 40th Street), so the problem is self-replicating regularly.
My father is a house A/C mechanic and he filled it with refrigerant but this has not fixed the problem. If the car has been driven and been parked under shade, the A/C blows cold air since the start. After being driven for 2-3 minutes, it blows cold air like a monster, I usually have to run it on 70 % cold and low fan - that's how well it performs.
My drive belt broke and I replaced it with a new one and now ac wont blow cold air. It was working fine before. I can hear the compressor running but not blowing cold air.
View 1 RepliesMy issue is i recently have put two different sets of front LED turn signals in my car and only after a day or so they blow out. When i pull out the bulbs they smell burnt. i do have LED turn signals in the rear as well they are plug and play with decoders no resistor required. For the front ones i did add 50W 6Ohm resistors on each side.
View 7 RepliesI'm at the end of my rope! My 2005 Ford Five Hundred Limited has a constant problem with the A/C system and overheating. In the last year I've replaced the compress, expansion valve, dryer FOUR times. They have replaced the condenser, blower motor, and added Freon, and checked for leaks. It will blow cold when running fast and then blow hot. They have replaced belts pulleys, They have replaced the thermostat, fans, coolant reservoir, hoses. and it still overheats. I've taken it to 4 difference mechanics including two dealerships. No one can seem to fix this problem.
View 9 RepliesIt blows luke warm air, no hot or no AC just luke warm... what could it be?
View 1 RepliesI have an 06 F-250 Lariat with the crew cab. Even though the windows are tinted, the A/C struggles to keep the cab at 70 degrees on any given sunny day oer 80 degrees outside.
As long as you're driving on the interstate, it blows cold, but when slowing down (like a traffic jam or a stop sign) the air gets warmer and has a funny smell (like it's wet).
When I got the truck it had just gotten a new A/C compressor (160k miles). It stopped working last summer (180k miles) so I had the truck at the Ford dealer here and they replaced the A/C compressor, condenser, pressure regulator and dryer...basically all A/C components under the hood.
They tell me its working fine, but I find that hard to believe. No Ford I've ever had has had trouble keeping the cab ice cold even on the hottest days... How are your air conditioners working? Do they keep the cab cold? What I should look at?
How does the A/C still blow cold air with the engine not running?
View 16 Replies