Drove a new 1.8T VW Passat last night. 170hp/184ftpd torque. Huge difference! My Camry feels totally underpowered now. Also the transmission seems to shift into high gears way too early. Had reprogram recall done and shifting was better for a little while but now is back to being the same as before.
View 14 RepliesMy 2001 altima wont shift to high gear. driving around town seems to be ok, will driving on the highway be dangerous?
View 5 RepliesWhen my 2012 Camry's automatic transmission shifts gears in the 20-30 mph range, there is a hesitation during the shifting. I had an independent automatic transmission technician test drive my Camry, and he said my transmission had "light throttle 2-3 slide." He also noted a high frequency clicking sound in the vicinity of the transmission while the engine was running, which he said may be a malfunctioning solenoid.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2012 Camry with the 4 cyl. engine & auto transmission and get 33 to 35 mpg on trips, runs fine, smoothly and good power. The only downside about the car is that it will downshift one gear an what I consider to be very minor rises, and if a bit steeper will downshift another gear. This occurs when I am using the cruise control, when not using the cruise control I can easily maintain speed without the downshift. I assume that it causes no harm, at least I hope so, but it is very annoying and disconcerting to me. Can this be rectified by recalibration of the cars computer?
View 7 RepliesI work at 5am and for the past few weeks ive noticed a clicking sound coming from driver side engine while on the brakes at a red light... it only happens early in the morning before i hit the highway and it drives me crazy! its like one of those portable fans and you put your finger on it and click click click click... but once i let go of the brakes its gone and back on it, it starts again... ive never had this issue in the texas weather but maybe cool morning is doing this? i have 18k on it, that would be great! i am do for an oil change at 20k and can ask them but idk if it will do it while at the dealership but maybe i can find the issue and fix it now.
View 14 RepliesI bought a brand new 2016 Camry LE. Sometimes when car sits for a while, and I shift from P to R, there is a clunking noise with foot on the brake. I tried with the parking break engage and it still does it.
View 4 RepliesI just did a drain and refill method on my 2014 Camry SE last weekend. However, after measured and calculated, I took out 2qts 1.5oz, but I only pumped in 1.95 qts. So, now the fuild is about 2oz off. Later, I took about 100 miles trip, car shifted fine.
I planted to do a drain and refill again next week. This time, I think I will carefully measure how much fluid is out then pump in the same + 2oz.
I still not sure if that enough, my question is: Can I buy a thermal gun and then measure the temp of the transmission pan, then perform checking fluid? Should it correct?
I have a friend with a 14.5 Camry that developed a transmission leak. He brings the car in to Toyota, they thought it was front pump seal. Turns out it was the case halves leaking. They are currently replacing torque converter, transmission, and trans cooler. All this at 26K.
Now is where it gets fun.. My girlfriend also has a 14.5 Camry 4 Cyl.. same car as listed above.
I go out to it, look under it and notice a " seeping " spot where I am assuming this problem has started.
She showed a technician at work ( she is a sales manager at a Toyota store) the picture. He said, looks like we have another one that needs a converter and possibly a transmission, I am assuming they will not know until it is out. her car has 25,500 miles on it.
2009 Kia Sorento. The Transmission was replaced twice last week and the week before. For the same problem. 50K miles. Auto Transmission...
I have a hard shift between 3rd & 4th gears, I have had the transmission replaced twice. Could it be something else?
I gotta 93 f150 XL it has a 4.9L and a T18 borg Werner trans. I replaced the clutch,throw out bearing, pressure plate and pilot bearing and after reinstalling trans I am unable to go through my gears.
If truck is off I can shift into some gears sometimes but not without a lot of resistance. Also some gears will let me in easy, then fight me as I try to back into neutral.
Truck starts right up but if I start in neutral I can't shift into any gears and get a lot of grinding when I try to put it in gear.
If I start in gear it drives in the gear but I have to force back into neutral. And then I'm stuck in neutral again.
It is a hydraulic clutch and fluid is full and there are no visible leaks. I am 100% sure clutch disc is facing correct way as I triple checked it while installing.
i've got an accord 4 cylinder with an automatic transmission that does not engage any of the other gears when i shift it out of park. all indicator lights are out except for the park position on the dash.
View 1 RepliesI have a BMW 523i SE AUTO (1997) 2494 Petrol. In auto transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd but won't shift any higher. In steptronic/manual transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 5th without any problems therefore suggesting that the problem isn't the gearbox itself. Only very occasionally does the shift electronics telltale light appear on the dash, yet the problem with the auto transmission is continuous. A local garage specializing in automatics suggested that it was the gearbox inhibitor. I've today had this changed but the problem still exists.
View 5 RepliesMy car is in great condition. 70,000 miles and I am the second owner. Every time I take it to a mechanic they can't believe how good the engine looks. But there is a mystery problem. I have been dealing with what seems to be an air leak or pressure issues. After driving for a while the car has a lazy start after a stop. The first few gears seem to not catch. If fells like there is a block in a line and it's trying to push through air or fuel to get to the 3rd gear. I have noticed on colder days the timing belt screeches a bit. When in high altitudes this problem is worse! After my last oil change they noticed a leak. Also the dipstick for my transmission fluid is broken. Although I check it regularly and that seems to be just fine. I want to get to the bottom of this!
View 2 RepliesThe area where you shift transmission gears isn't lighted. Find that strange even though you can see what gear you're in on the lighted panel. Gear not the right term, but think you know what I mean.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 manual transmission Santa Fe. I've maintained it very well since new.
About 6 months ago I noticed it was getting difficult to manually shift gears. It wasn't grinding or anything, just "hard" to get it to go into the various gears while driving. Before, I could shift into any gear with just 2 fingers on the gearshift and it was smooth as silk.
I went in and had the gear oil changed. This was something I didn't even know needed to be changed and the guy said most people never do. They showed me the oil they took out and it looked more like black water than oil and smelled kinda funky. They changed the gear oil out, but still no difference, and in fact it's getting worse.
The best way to describe it is the only way I can really shift gears now is to find that "sweet spot speed" where the gears will change on their own (so to speak). I find it particularly difficult going from 1st to 2nd, such as when starting from a stop light. People almost rear-end me now as it takes me longer to get it into 2nd gear.
Once in gear it runs perfectly, no problems. The clutch seems to be working normally, except perhaps while stopped in 1st gear, it sometime seems to jerk a bit, and I find this most noticeable if I'm stuck in very slow moving heavy traffic with the constant stopping and then moving forward slightly and such.
It is almost impossible to "gear down" into a lower gear unless I'm at the speed where it would normally go into that lower gear on it's own. The best way to describe it is how it is possible to drive a standard transmission car WITHOUT a clutch if you shift at just the right time/speed. But I DO use my clutch, but if I'm not close to "that speed" it's really, really difficult to force it into another gear, and the few times I do try and force it, I'll often get a bit of grinding.
I went on vacation for a week and left my car at my parents house. I came back and now it has become extremely difficult to shift between gears. It's nearly impossible to get the car into reverse, extremely difficult to get it into first, makes a thud when pulling it out of first, is semi difficult to get into 2nd, but only a mild nuisance to get into 3rd through 6th.
For more information, the car is a 2012 Volkswagen GLI with just shy of 40,000 miles. The car ran just fine before I went on vacation and the car was not moved while I was on vacation. I did notice that a little ticking kind of sound when I had the car in neutral with no clutch. So the throw out bearing was starting to wear, but it was a very slight. But I haven't had any other problems.
2 wheel drive. No problems shifting until a few weeks ago when I put a chip in the truck. Then became a funny sort of half shift in between 1st and 2nd. Kind of a half shift and then a final hard shift into the next gear.
I have only driven the truck with the chip setting in economy by Gearhead which is 40hp. Well, all day driving in an economy but I have played hard with all the settings, smoking my tires and what not but never actually driven it into anything other than the economy.
Tonight it's done. Starting in the normal drive from a red light it was in between that funny shift and then it just fell back all the way with a hard thunk followed by it wouldn't shift at all out of first gear. Took it out of tunes, same difference. Found out when I take off in drive it won't shift on its own out of first but when I put it in second from the tree it shifts into second as normal, coming from the drive. Then when I start getting up into the rpm range that she normally should shift past second I put her back in drive and she shifts into third (and fourth?) normally. If I remove the overdrive it still immediately downshifts. When I turn it back on it shifts back up normally.
But again, starting from drive I have to put it into second and then into drive for it to shift. I still have reverse and it still kicks directly into first from the park and takes off, just doesn't shift from first to second on it's own.
I checked the tranny fluid, it's seemingly fine. Great red color and full. Does not smell burnt at all. No flashing light or anything anywhere either. No blinking on the overdrive light on the stick or no warning lights anywhere else.
My 2008 Tundra's tranmission went out last week when attempting to shift from 4 WD high, into 4wd lo, then back into high.
I was stuck in the snow in 4wd high, then tried low, to no avail, tried the transmission in lo (which didn't engage--just 'lo' light blinking and alarm buzzer, then tried 4wd HI and there was NO transmission response, a grinding in "P' and no low, high, or anything--from Park to D, Reverse, all the gears were gone, and I was getting ready to call for a tow truck, and after grinding the P gear for a while and back into N, it went into 4wd high.
Toyota replicated the problem, after some doing, and they're trying to fix it as the 4wd acuator is a problem--it's backordered to Japan which means the truck is out of action for a month.
There are similar reports of damage and problems listed on the NHTSA website.
I'm sure it's something worse, because I've had very bad luck with my 02 Volkswagen Passat. Since last Wednesday, my car has been stuttering when I step on the gas in the early gears but when you get to about 30-40mph it runs fine with an occasional light stutter. Saturday the check engine light came on, then went off. Yesterday it came on while on the highway and has not shut off yet.
My VW has 105K miles on it and hasn't had a tune up since 50K. Does it need a tune up or isn't it something else if the check engine light comes on? If it is a tune up, is it possible to do it yourself? I don't really tinker with engines much, but I like to think I can be somewhat handy. I've changed my brakes and rotars, headlights and other things. Is it just spark plugs, oil and air filters?
So my 2010 Camry LE with manual transmission has developed what I figure will be an expensive problem. It oftentimes grinds when I shift from 1-2. If I pause between the two it's fine, but if i just go straight to 2nd it grinds about 75% of the time so that I have to go back to neutral, let out the clutch, reengage and THEN go into 2nd gear. What could cause this? I'm stumped. There's no issues with any other gears and it does the same thing if I got from 3-2 also. It's to the point where I try to just skip using that gear. It's got about 135k miles.
View 7 RepliesSo I recently purchased a 2007 LS460 with 115k on it. I've noticed that about a month ago the car started driving pretty weird. The transmission would shift hard and jerky almost through the first 3 gears, like driving a manual.
Also, when I tried to floor the car from maybe 40-50mph, the rpm would shoot up only 500 then downshift and accelerate causing a violent jerk. It feels like if I was driving at 50mph on 8th gear, when I floored it the car would feel like it downshifted to 7th gear for merely less than a second and downshifted again to 4th gear causing the car to jerk hard.
This is the car's history:
- Reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery (no luck)
- Auto transmission software has been updated at the dealer
- Valve springs recall has been completed
- Head covers has been changed
- Engine module has been reprogrammed by the dealer at 70k miles
- Trans fluid has been changed at 70k miles according to lexus.com service record
So at this point I really don't know what could cause this problem anymore, maybe it could be the transmission fluid?