Camry 2012+ :: 2013 - Tranny Flare / Shifts Are Crisp
Apr 12, 2014
When cool to cold my 13 2.5L Camry SE 12k miles has shifts that are 'crisp' (not meaning that is good). It I s like it rides up to an rpm and throws on the clutch and the RPMs drop by 200rpm and then she pulls into gear. No slamming but feels like a sports car driver changing gears with just a moment of that 'transition float' between gears cause by physically moving a clutch pedal. An actual noticeable shift feeling and a moment of floating 1/2 second transition. Is this 'flare'?
I guess I could just say this... It feels like it is truly 'going between gears' rather than the typical slush sliding into gear like most all automatics do.
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This car runs rough after forward gear shifts unless I give the accelerator a push. Seems like problem is at lower RPM after shift. This condition improves after 30-40 miles. About 60K miles now.
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I've always wondered why the transmission automatically shirts to 4th gear when I switch to sport mode! Is this normal??? It's an i4
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I leased my 2015 Sonata Turbo w/ Ultimate Package back in November. Experiencing flare ups between shifts in the transmission. Every once in a while, specifically when cold, I will get a slight hesitation and slip in between gears 2 and 3. It doesn't happen too often, so I'm not that concerned about it..just wanted to see if others have seen the same thing.
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Sometimes mine shifts nice and quick, but sometimes it also shifts soft and slowly with a slight "flare" between shifts. Seems like it shifts better the harder I drive it, but I try not to drive like that. Dealer says everything seems normal to them. Maybe it's the adaptive transmission?
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I have a 2011 camry se 4cyl with 15k miles. Just wanted to know if you have to change Trans Fluid because my tranny shifts hard between gears.
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I just bought 2011 Camry 23K miles, L4 engine and 6 sp auto trans. Experienced strange downshifting - when slowing down the tranny shifts down, so the RPM jumps from about 900 to 1,200 and the cycle repeats for the next gear. Feels almost like the car is getting ready for the (possible) acceleration. It mostly happens when I am coasting, not when I am breaking. I already disconnected battery for the few hours to reset transmission shifting points memory.
I have seen "transmission flare up" tread about V6 engine + 6 sp tran combination, but it is not it.
I also have 2009 Camry with 5 speed 170K miles, and it shifts so nice you could not tell what gear you are on; and have 2009 Highlander.
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I have a 2012 with 5k miles. Starting near 3500 miles, the car started doing hard shifts when 'cold', e.g., when started after sitting overnight. As the engine warms over the first few miles, the shifting smooths out.
The shift behavior also occasionally presents when the engine compartment cools during normal driving. E.g., if I drive several miles at 45mph on a cool day, the airflow under the hood allows more cooling than when stopped at a light.
The cold shifts are getting harder as the mileage of the vehicle increases. Changing from 'D' to 'S' does not work for the problem.
After several rounds with the dealer, they connected me with a Toyota regional representative. He and I drove my car, along with several other 2012's on the dealer's lot, each with a different odometer reading from 2k to 10k. I have also driven a 2012 owned by my parents, that has 2k miles. The conclusion he and I both reached is that the 2012's have a common cold-shift problem that starts around 3k-4k miles, and worsens with mileage. The highest mileage car I drove (an XLE) had 10k miles, and its cold-start shift performance was terrible.
After a month, I'm still waiting to hear from Toyota about what they plan to do (if anything). What was the resolution?
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2001 T&C with 3.3, 4speed tranny and 128K miles.
Here's an interesting one: This morning I went went to get gas and no problems getting to the gas station. I pull out of the gas station and get to the first light, again no problem. Light turns green, I go and the tranny shifts from 1st to..... nothing! Just like I slipped it into neutral. I coasted into a parking lot, moved the gear selector from Park to R to D to L, and nothing.
I put it in Park and shut off the engine, then restart and shift into drive and it goes into gear! I start to drive away and when it's time to shift, it goes from 1st to.... nothing again! Once again none of the gears work, until I shut the engine off and restart.
After I restarted the engine I shifted to L and drove home in 1st gear keeping an eye on the tach so I wouldn't exceed 3500 RPM. Got home with no problem.
So, to recap, when it goes to shift up from 1st it goes into nothing. Just like neutral. No check engine light, not "limp mode". If I shut off the engine and restart, it'll go into 1st, and if I keep it in L so it won't try to shift up, it'll drive all the way home in 1st. Reverse doesn't work no matter what I try.
Some background: I changed the tranny fluid and filter 2 years ago at around 90K. fluid level is good. It did rain hard last night, conicidence? The engine compartment is dry.
I think it is safe to rule out a mechanical problem, this seems to be electrical and we can probably rule out the tranny range sensor since it keeps it in 1st when I have it in L and the backup lights come on when I put it in R.
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I have a V6. When I just want to slowly get going I very slowly depress the pedal and hold, or leave off when speed is reached. Tranny shifts at low rpms, not much acceleration. I have completely avoided kickdowns, which exhibit a bit of a lag. When I really need to get going quickly off the line I steadily press the pedal more quickly than for a slow start. The effect is quite remarkable; tranny holds gears until about 4,000 or 5,000 rpm, and the car really moves. When I need to accelerate and I'm already moving I always shift into sport or I use the TIP.
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I have a 2006 Nissan Sentra with about 58k miles on it. When it shifts into gear I hear a slight squeak, almost like a bushing or something like that. It does not sound mechanically related. More of something squeaking or loose etc.
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I just picked up a new 2006 Touareg V6 with package 4 Offroad Gray with all the fixin's. I'm still learning all the features of the car, I'm finding more and more innovative functions every day. I did have one "concern" that I have been noticing as I drive around, the transmission seems to want to hunt for a gear... sometimes when accelerating the tranny seems to get confused and shifts up and down suddenly before settling on a gear.
Also, this morning when I put the car in R, it wouldn't lock into reverse, it was stuck in neutral before it dumped into the reverse gear violently. The other thing that I have noticed is that it sometimes locks in gear when moving, it'll hold a low gear and not upshift when it should or it'll hold a tall gear and not downshift (for example it'll be in 6th gear even when I slow down to 20mph and then when I try to speed up it'll stay in 6th gear).
I believe this car is drive by wire and it's the first one that i've ever driven.... i've driven other autos before but they have been much smoother and more "direct" then this tranny. I did have an audi before this and that also wasn't the smoothest auto tranny either, it also seemed to have a mind of its own. Have people had these kinds of problems before and should it be something I should be concerned with or take back to the dealer with my concerns? It is a brand new car, i bought it with less then 30 miles and it has only 400 now. I love everything else about the car, the interior is top notch and the fit and finish is excellent so far, my only concern is the tranny.
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I just had my tranny rebuilt it doesn't shift hard all the time but it does from time to time going from 2nd -3rd and 3rd -4th I thought being new it may need to soak up some fluid so the bands can swell so I ask the shop that rebuilt it that question he said they soaked them as they rebuilt it so they should be swollen already then he proceeded to tell me it was electrical is he telling me the truth because the ck engine light isn't showing any faults and if it was electric shouldn't that have been fixed in the shop while it was being rebuilt if it was interior electronic?
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After they flashed the TCM (vin 34000). Did not notice this before flash. Mild acceleration in a continuing curve to the right as the tranny shifts to 5th wheel pulls sharp to the right. Like a strong twitch. Also does it in left turn but not as strong. Didn't really bother me (driving wife nuts though, and its her car) in the dry, but Sat. nite on snow/ice scared bejaysus outa me. Felt like I was going to spin. If I lift before shift to 5th it doesn't happen. "Twitch" is about like you would to to miss something in the road. Maybe not that strong. Car thinks continuing radius curve is a decreasing radius turn. Not good. Haven't found the right road to try it under hard acceleration
As an aside, Contis worn out evenly at 10,000 miles. Granted, I did remove a few pieces from them this summer, but overall tread is gone.No binding feeling on dry pavement. It does "crab", or bind at slow speeds tight turns on snow/ice, but so does my Yukon XL in 4wd Auto mode.Have to visit dealer anyway. Service fault workshop light came on a few times. Restart and it went away. And dash wood cracked.
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My tranny guy just did a full scan and the ONLY thing which indicated a problem was 'output speed sensor' which we were able to trace back to most likely being caused by a completely hosed driveshaft (I've noticed a driveline vibration). We're going to install a new driveshaft, replace the output speed sensor(s), check for any frayed/chaffed wiring going to the output speed sensor(s) and then see where that leads us (he said something about some computer module in the dash which he's had to replace on several Sooper Dooties).
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'00 PSD w/ 291k on the clock. Starts easily, runs good, only complaint is (what I consider to be) the soft shift of the tranny. Years ago, when I bought it, it came with a Super Chips Tuner. I've never max'd it out, just usually run on the performance tow. Is there any way to clean up the shifts and make them a bit quicker with less slip. When it's time to shift, dammit, I want it to "SHIFT", not slide into gear. I don't expect it to hit the gears like a manual valve bodied drag car tranny. But, there should be something to fix this without spending a bunch of $$$..
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I have a 2008 GC 6 speed transmission that has 55000 miles on it. When the engine and tranny is cold the transmission shifts very hard until it warms up. There are times when shifting from reverse to drive it shifts very hard. Also, the siding doors creak when driving over rough roads. Can they be adjusted?
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 188,000 miles on it. I bought it used with 110K miles and put a new tranny in at that time. Now, I am having problems. I don't know if it's the tranny or the engine. It looses power when climbing hills. It takes off really slow with no power and finally gets up to speed it switches gears the whole time smoothly but the engine just can't take a load.
The check engine light came on and put out 10 codes:
P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent
P1747 Electronic Solenoid A-Short Circuit
P0743-Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0750-Shift Solenoid "A"
P0755-Shift Solenoid "B"
P0760-Shift Solenoid "C"
P0765-Shift Solenoid "D"
P0135-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P0155-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P1409-EGR Vacuum Regulator Circuit Malfunction
Those are the codes and I don't know how one has anything to do with the other. I checked the dip stick on the tranny and it's clean. Juicy red and not shavings.
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Every time after he shifts you can hear a crisp bhrrrt sound. Is that particular sound directly related to the tune the car has or is it something else?
I have an APR tune stage 2 and do not get these bhrrrt sounds after shifts. Or will I get these when I go stage 2+? Is it a DSG thing?
I've seen some UM and GIAC tuned R's sound similar. Leads me to believe it may be related to type of tune you have. Is this correct?
I currently have 42DD TBE with VWR CIA.
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i am used to changing the oil & filter in a new car after 700 miles, the thinking was the bad sand castings and after a couple hundred miles some sand and other noogies would fall out of the engine block, heads and other parts. Then begin a 3,000-3,500 miles cycle of oil & filter changes. The dealer where I bought and will have it serviced at, a large Toyota dealership in Henderson, NV., says the oil and filter in this new Camry SE V6 gets changed every 10,000 miles. I know the tolerances are much tighter in 2013 than the 60's & 70's, and this engine uses synthetic oil but that seems a long time between oil & filter changes.
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I just bought HID for my fog lights. I was looking all over the internet for how to install them, but i couldn't find any. I have a 2013 Camry SE. It came with stock fog lights. Also there is a lip cover on the bottom of my bumper. I was wondering how to install HID fog lights successfully?
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