This car runs rough after forward gear shifts unless I give the accelerator a push. Seems like problem is at lower RPM after shift. This condition improves after 30-40 miles. About 60K miles now.
View 11 RepliesI've always wondered why the transmission automatically shirts to 4th gear when I switch to sport mode! Is this normal??? It's an i4
View 14 RepliesJust experienced something new in my less than a week old 2.0T. This morning was the coldest day since buying it (-15c). I had the block heater plugged in and it started up well. Let the engine run for my usual 30-40 seconds before putting it into gear. Reversed well, but was a bit slow shifting after putting it into 1st.
For the first 5 minutes or so of the drive, the shift were pretty rough. Mostly the shift between 1st and 2nd gear. Things got better after that and were fine for the rest of my trip and also an hour later when I came home.
Is this just a case of a very cold transmission and fluid, or is it something else? I've never owned a car that had such rough shifting in cold weather. Sluggish shifts yes, but not violent like these were.
When cool to cold my 13 2.5L Camry SE 12k miles has shifts that are 'crisp' (not meaning that is good). It I s like it rides up to an rpm and throws on the clutch and the RPMs drop by 200rpm and then she pulls into gear. No slamming but feels like a sports car driver changing gears with just a moment of that 'transition float' between gears cause by physically moving a clutch pedal. An actual noticeable shift feeling and a moment of floating 1/2 second transition. Is this 'flare'?
I guess I could just say this... It feels like it is truly 'going between gears' rather than the typical slush sliding into gear like most all automatics do.
I bought my 2012 Camry, with 12,000 miles from the Dealership in December of 2013. The car was sold as CPO, car was purchased on Dec 30... just 6 weeks ago and I have had numerous issues with the car Misfiring. When I arrived at the dealer, the CHECK ENGINE and TIRE TRACTION lights are one and the car is running very rough as acknowledged by the service techs. For the 2nd time now, I am told they are not able to recreate the problem, so they are not able to fix it.
This is my 4th Toyota and I have NEVER had this many problems with a Toyota. Did I get a lemon? Service tech says he can't fix it unless he knows exactly what's wrong. I am asking him to check the spark plugs, check the ignition coil...and his response is that they can't just go on a wild goose chase, they need to know what they are looking for. Does this sound reasonable?
I have been reading some topics with people having issues with their Camry transmissions and torque converters. I have 15000 miles now and I'm noticing not as smooth shifts anymore from 1st to 3rd gear. It also jerks a little when you suddenly step back on the gas.
View 10 RepliesI'm driving an 87 v6 auto cutlass 130 000 km on it. Recently changed alternator and battery at mechanic.
After start up i put the car into gear but it wont shift into gear unless I give it a lot of gas and even when I do so it seems to have trouble keeping momentum /staying in gear. The shifts are rough. However after driving for a few minutes there are no issues at all.
It's been quite cold lately and I've noticed that if I let the car run for about 10-15 minutes before driving it's fine, no problems (although this seems a bit excessive).
Could this simply be an old car/cold weather issue or is there something else to consider?
There is only one thing I don't like about our new SF. The transmission shifts from 4th to 5th gear at approximately 60 km/hr (36 mph +/-) and the rpm's drop to 1500 rpm. Now, when I want to speed up a tad (which is a frequent occurrence when driving around town), there is a pronounced hesitation before it drops back into 4th gear and accelerates.
In 5th gear at 1500 revs, I find that the engine is 'lugging' a bit. Yesterday, I started to compensate for this by changing to manual shifting as soon as the trannie shifted into 4th gear and leaving it there when I was traveling in that 60 kph speed area. For me, this is MUCH better and I quite like doing some of the shifting any way since I spent so many years driving manual transmission equipped cars.
How have others found the car to be when driving around town? Other than that, I really enjoy this car. Easily the most comfortable seats of any car I've ever owned --- their design provides terrific lumbar support and the new cloth material has a great 'feel' to it.
I just bought a brand new 2013 Elantra! I love the car, but over the past week or so I have started to feel the car's transmission (auto) jerk when it shifts from 3rd to 4th gear. I feel the car hesitate somewhat when going from 3rd and then jerk into 4th gear if that makes any sense. The car has less than 1000 miles and it never did it when I first bought it. The transmission was always smooth until recently. Also, when coasting down the road I feel the car jerk forward when I give it some gas which also feels very strange to me!?
View 37 RepliesI have had my manual 2014 four months now and still can't get used to the fact, that to engage reverse you have to move the stickshift FORWARD into the same spot as first gear. I have had a half dozen near wrecks because of this.
View 5 RepliesI just purchased an Automatic 2009 Camry LE with 64k 2weeks ago, and noticed that twice it felt like it was losing power on an incline so I bought the fuel system cleaner to see if that worked (seaform). Tonight I go to park it on a street with a slight incline. As I shift to reverse to line the car up, it rolled forward. It shocked me bc there was a parked car right in front of me. I tried putting it in Drive/Park etc then back in Reverse it still rolled forward. I put my foot on the brake and gas at the same time to try to reverse but not wanting to give it too much gas bc I was scared it might fly forwards into the car in front of me (still rolled forward). Finally I was so close to the car in front of me I gave it a try and it still rolled and bumped the truck in front of me but with enough gas it went into reverse.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2012 with 5k miles. Starting near 3500 miles, the car started doing hard shifts when 'cold', e.g., when started after sitting overnight. As the engine warms over the first few miles, the shifting smooths out.
The shift behavior also occasionally presents when the engine compartment cools during normal driving. E.g., if I drive several miles at 45mph on a cool day, the airflow under the hood allows more cooling than when stopped at a light.
The cold shifts are getting harder as the mileage of the vehicle increases. Changing from 'D' to 'S' does not work for the problem.
After several rounds with the dealer, they connected me with a Toyota regional representative. He and I drove my car, along with several other 2012's on the dealer's lot, each with a different odometer reading from 2k to 10k. I have also driven a 2012 owned by my parents, that has 2k miles. The conclusion he and I both reached is that the 2012's have a common cold-shift problem that starts around 3k-4k miles, and worsens with mileage. The highest mileage car I drove (an XLE) had 10k miles, and its cold-start shift performance was terrible.
After a month, I'm still waiting to hear from Toyota about what they plan to do (if anything). What was the resolution?
When applying brake in a traffic at low speed, I found there is a jerking movement forward of the car. I need to apply harder so the car can stop completely. No problem at high speed on highway though.
View 14 RepliesWe got a 2012 SE Camry back in September. This is our first Toyota. Love everything about it except the driver and front passenger head rest. I feel like it is always pushing my head forward. Is there any other options for this?
View 14 Replies My son's 96 camry 4-cyl developed a transmission problem. It slips in the forward gears. Reverse works find. At start, the first gear slips allot but eventually moves the car. It also slips between gears. The transmission fluid has a burnt smell and a dark color. The problem started about 1 1/2 years after I swiped out the transmission. The replacement transmission is used and I was told it came from Japan. It worked great up until the problem started.
In one Post I found suggested old contaimination buildup that may have clog a shift port or something. Can I gain access to the hydraulic area without pulling the transmission? And if so, is there hope in recovering the transmission by cleaning this area? Is there a solution that does not require removing the transmission?
When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
View 14 RepliesI am considering buying a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan with a reported transmission problem. Mileage is around 120k, and the price MIGHT be reasonable even if a trans rebuild would be necessary. I have not seen the vehicle yet, so I'm not yet committed to anything.
Seller claims the car shifts just fine going forward but will not move in reverse. Is this immediately clear that rebuild is going to be necessary? Are there less invasive repairs possible such as valves or controls or other parts which might solve this problem?
I suppose a Caravan transmission at 120,000miles is probably nearing the end of its lifetime, at least that was true of older ones. But like I said, the price is low enough that the cost of a rebuild might be justifiable if all else about the vehicle looks good. I want to have a better sense of the prospects before I invest time in going to look at this...it's about 50 miles away. I have a local transmission shop that I trust and which has reasonable prices
I have a 2013 Hyundai Azera with the 3L V6. I only use 93 octane gas (as recommended) and only use either Shell or Chevron. Each day, when I get in the car for the first time, I can count on it running rough and having inconsistent performance and some minor sputtering or misfiring (don't know the difference) until the car gets warm. Once it gets warm, all is well. It has 24k miles. Any thoughts on what may be the root cause? Should I change the fuel filter so soon? Does that matter being it gets better when it warms up?I change the oil religiously whenever the computer in the car tells me it is time to do so and use Mobil 1 synthetic.
View 3 RepliesMy 2000 Echo (auto) developed a rough idle especially while in gear and with the AC running. It's a pretty rough vibration that seems to come from the left side (belt side) of the motor. When at a stop light with the AC off it is less pronounced.
Last year I had the belts and motor mounts replaced. Well let me rephrase.. I paid to have them replaced, not sure if they actually were. But the car ran great all year until the other day. The belts might be due for a replacement. They sometimes squeal in the morning as I accelerate from a stopped position while running the defrost. Also there is no CEL.
2004 Excursion... 1st time into a 6.0 for me so I took my time. Truck has 192000miles.
PHP Ficm atlas 40, 58V Swamps
SCT Tuned via X4 (recently)(Extreme street at the time)
Synthetic 0w30 summer and 0w40 winter.
FORD filters ALWAYS, 5000mile intervals no pushing it
FORD fuel filters, BOTH regularly.
Studded, AFE Stage 2, Liberty EGR Delete.
42's, 4:88's with Detroit in rear
Highway driving and feel a stumble. Weird, then another, ok that wasn't a bump. Then steady rough idle and a heavy vibration when I lightly got back up to speed to get myself home.
Had new filters so started there. Just changed in the spring here and they were in pretty new condition but swapped them out anyway. Stripping the cap, 120 bucks and had to put a new one on.
Start truck and still rough idle, test drive and still a bad vibration.
SO, I read and search. Scanning with Ford or AE are my number one priorities and they were done along with Fuel pressure check.
Scan revieled Inj 6 out, fuel pressure at 60 PSI. We pulled plugs off injectors with results except 6, confirming it's not working.
Ordered an injector and the Aliant Power rebuild kits to freshen up the other 7.
Disassembled all 7, NO stiction problems at all and all 7 spool valves were clean as a whistle. Bodies of injectors were good on 6 of them and had a screen in cyl 3 what was completely gone (the 3 screens around the body of the injector). Tip was also plugged but one hole. (used brake cleaner in tip and air to confirm 6 holes were clear) Used the body of the core on that injector but not the spool part. Replaced all O-Rings incl the seal inside the top where rail snaps into. Sanded spools (800grit 2-3 turns) and installed same way they came out. Stem pipes and dummies new as well.
Reassemble, carefully and fire truck. WOW....running abit rough but smoother. Ive read it takes abit to get air out of system and to expect longer cranks ect. Shut it down. INspect for leaks. Button up the ficm, and few other things. Re-fire truck with abit longer of a crank. Fires and running smooth. HERE's where it starts acting up again. I can feel a small stumble....then another....then full time again. Exact same as before. Pull 6 off and it's that injector again.
Here's the big mistake I made. Reinstalling injectors, I put the new one in #4 spot and number 4 in 6's spot. Not smart, I know.
Pulling inj plugs off around entire motor while running and def No 6.
Put things away, call buddy and he says possible FICM. or harness.
So i pull inj harness and OHM every single pin and map it. 100%, I go grab his "good" ficm and test with that. HOLY COW, FOUND IT. Started great... Then as she warmed up ICP at650ish, EOT ECT getting to 100-110F (only a 4-5* delta always monitor) is starts to vibrate and run rough again.
Read some more....OHM testing is one thing, actually load testing harness confirms if it's actually no good. Harness is 450 bucks plus our lovely 13% tax so I want to diligently cross this bridge. Grab a harness off a running 6.0 and test next day.
Fires up and runs smooth. Then, as temps come up it starts again. Walked away last night and when I fired up this morning. Started great and as she warmed up vibration was back. Along with a intermittent squeak from the turbo housing area.
Codes.... SCT X4 tuner is reading nothing DTC's and hasn't since day one so I "assumed" no codes until buddy scanned with AE and since it's last WiFi update wouldn't connect to computer and gives me error code 10007 when I try to tune. **Ended up fixing last night, went into another "Tune revision update" and now connects to my computer AND returned my truck to STOCK and resested truck. Still running rough.
So I plug my PHP FICM tuner and get codes:
P1102 "Unkknown" (reading here I had my AFE off and not plugged in)
P0113 Intake air HI input
P0284 Cyl 8 cont/bal Fault
P0603 Internal control Module KAM error
P0611 FICM Perf (58v swamps, I've read always throws this code and I've had that code since day 1)
P0676 Glow #6 fail
Lastly I'll add, no smoke out tail pipe at all during all testing minus the black puff when tune loaded.
I have 144,000 miles on my V6. Just started to notice that the car is surging/hesitating at just about all speeds. It appears to idle fine and if you raise the RPM in neutral I can't detect a problem. If you place the trans in drive, apply the brake and raise the RPM to 1000 to 1500 the engine's RPM varies slightly and regularly, it not steady like all of my other cars. When you are at highway speeds you can feel the car slightly buck, if you take it out of overdrive it is more detectable due to higher RPM. I do not notice the problem when the engine is cold.
I have a hand-held scanner and I see no codes and there is no CEL illuminated. I changed the plugs with OEM plugs at 90,000 miles when I changed the timing belt. Changed the air filter probably 10,000 miles ago. Just cleaned the MAF sensor (after the problem started), no change. Took it to the dealer. They discovered broken motor mounts which I kind of suspected I had, but I didn't feel the symptom were mount related. They said that I was feeling torque converter lock-up. I told them that the range of speeds and gears that the problem presented itself that it was unlikely lock-up.
Alldata suggests that it is a fuel problem and Toyota has some TSB's for drivability. I'm discounting the TSB's because this just started recently. Any hints as to where to try first? EGR, fuel regulator, fuel pulsation damper, injectors, spark plug coil packs, ..... It gets too expensive to just remove and replace the sensors that deal with the fuels system. I have plenty of tools plus a volt-ohm meter and a fuel pressure gauge.
07/21/2009 : While I was at work I added Seafoam to the gas, tank was half full.
On my way home from work I disconnected the EGR Position Sensor connector and the symptoms disappeared and the expected CEL illuminated. When I arrived home I went on Alldata and looked for an EGR system test. I found two, one for the position sensor and one for the EGR temperature sensor.
I had to run out to Sears to pickup a vacuum pump. I performed the tests below up to the point that I needed the pump. I also removed, inspected and reinstalled the EGR Position Sensor before I left for Sears. I did not notice the symptoms on the trip about 14 miles round trip. I'll see if I still have the problem on my way to work tomorrow.
Performed the on-vehicle inspection as listed on Alldata
EGR Position Sensor resistance: 2.6 ohms, in spec
EGR Position Sensor power: 5.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with no vacuum applied: 1.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with 5.1 in Hg vacuum applied: 4.0v, in spec
07/22/2009 : Problem seems to have gone away, no bucking or hesitation. Maybe the connector contacts were dirty on the position sensor. Will update if the symptoms return.
09/07/2009 : Noticed that I am getting 2 miles per gallon more than before I found the problem.