Camry :: 2011 XLE Stalls Over Puddles / Could Not Restart
Mar 22, 2015
My 2011 Camry XLE 6 cylinders, 50000 miles, stalls in a wet weather when it has being driven over standing water. Last time, about two weeks ago, it was rainy and I was driving with lots of running water around. Suddenly, car stalled and I could not restart it. I kept trying to restart, but all attempts failed and I called for tow truck. It would run for a few seconds with lots of light on the dashboard and stall. I was waiting for an hour and a half, rain stopped an hour after my car stalled and I was able to start the car and drive home. Next morning I started to drive in rain and dashed board lights started to light on. During next two weeks I showed the car to two very experienced mechanics and they could not find any problem.
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I have a 1995 Toyota Camry. It has leaked a little oil off and on for awhile, but seemed to need just a quart of oil every few months. A couple of weeks ago, I was a t the gas station, checking air in my tires, water in the radiator, and I needed to put in 2 qts. of oil. For some reason I got distracted and forgot to put the oil cap back on the engine.
I drove 30mls x2 and realized that there was a funny smell that I needed to check. Looked under the hood and found the oil cap sitting there! Went to the gas station checked the oil and it needed 2 qts. once again. Went to the car wash, washed out the inside of the car (shielding the alternator from water), went home and my car started showing sizable puddles of oil under the car for the next several days and the dip stick showed nothing after 4 days (usually means 2 qts down)! 2 qts in 4 days--what's going on?
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My 2012 V6 seems overly susceptible to the belts squealing (which leads to the AC not cooling until the belts dry) when I drive through a puddle.
I don't have charging or electrical problems or any symptoms of a too loose belt, although I suppose perhaps it is slightly loose? Or is this just a common problem because of a not big enough splash guard?
I'm not talking about driving through a monsoon flood with water up to the doorjams, I'm talking about even going 5 to 10 or 20 mph, through a dip in the road with a little standing water, and knowing water will splash up into the engine compartment, make my belts squeal, and half the time, make the AC stop until the belts dry.
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93" chevy, k 1500 305 engine, stalled, then hard to restart lots of black smoke, fuel, no air? Bad mixture? When it starts it backfires, runs rough black smoke, and stalls again. dist. module ck. o.k. cap and rotor good.
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I have a 2000 Nissan Xterra. About a month ago it stalled while I was backing out of a parking spot. When I turned the key, the engine turned over but wouldn't start. A few minutes later it started and I drove it on a long road trip. It was fine until today when it stalled when my husband was going around a corner. He waited a few minutes then it started. Now tonight he started it, drove down the block and it stalled again. This time it won't restart.
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My 2010 Elantra stalls while driving, even on the highway, and then won't restart right away. It has been at the dealer for a week now, and they have determined that the ECU is the problem.
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1990 Celica 2.2 liter, 5SFE manual trans car with 239k miles.The car occasionally stalls after it is warm and won't restart. When is is cold she fires right up as it does most of the time when she is warm. To restart he sprays starter fluid in the intake or waits until it cools down. Also as the car gets warm the idle decreases to around 650. Adjusted idle speed to 750 but no effect. The only code is 1-2, low or no RPM, measured the RPM sensor air gap and within spec, measured the sensor resistance and within spec. sensor wiring and connector looked good, measured the temp sensor and within spec, disconnected the EGR vacuum line and no effect. Problem occurs once or twice a week but at the most embarrassing place.
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2000 Sierra 2500 pickup truck. What would cause my truck to stall randomly and not start? Then after waiting a while it will start.
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My 2005 Chevy Impala is taking a long time to crank. Now after 10 minutes or so of either idiling or driving, the car stalls out. I am able to restart it. Replaced the battery and no change. Lights are not getting dim in any way so I figure it's not the alternator. Could it be a bad starter?
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2003 Prius starts then stalls (shudders bad) then starts right after with no problem.
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I have a 1995 GMC Sanoma, 2.2 Lt, 4 cyl, 5 spd. It has about 130K miles. Each day I drive it back and forth to work (about 30 miles one way). About 6 months ago I noticed that at about 5 miles into my drive to work it would stutter but then catch itself and go on the rest of the way with no problems. On the drive home it would do the same thing at about 8 miles into the drive. This didn't really bother me until one day instead of stuttering it stalled but I could restart it right away while coasting. It had steadily gotten worse to where I had to pull over on the side of the road and restart because it wouldn't restart right away. Nowadays I hardly drive it at all because I'm afraid it will stall and not restart at all. I have replaced the air idle control, fuel pump relay and the positive battery cable. The symptons now are basically the same but different, I can start it (anytime, morning or evening) and it will idle fine for about 5-10 minutes. It will then start to stutter and try to catch itself, the idle will then rev up to about 1500 and then come back down and stutter some more before stalling. After that it will not start back up until maybe 10 minutes after, (it acts like it is not getting any fuel) but once it starts it runs fine, I drove it around for about 20 miles and it ran real strong. The next day it went through this same cycle again.
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96 teg 1.8 non vtech after a while it will lose spark some times it runs for a few days then loses spark but will start up with in 10 min sometimes it just just stalls out and loses spark but restarts with in 10 minutes.
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My '96 Dakota SLT 6-cylinder pickup backfired and blew a hole in my muffler ... I've had it in three different shops on six occasions since and the thing still hiccups, backfires, stalls ... most of the electrical switches and sensors have been replaced ... right before it back fires, it feels like it is going to stall, then "POW" ... sometimes it continues to run fine for a little while after that ... then it happens again ... When it stalls it feels like it is running out of gas ... it is almost impossible to restart right away, but if I wait a few minutes, the starts right up ...
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my daughter has a 91 volvo 240 with a 4cyl and auto. roughly 100000 miles. it starts and runs fine but after driving it, if it is shut off for less than 30 min, then she tries to start it again, it stalls immediately. she can keep her foot on the gas slightly and drive it the distance of a parking lot, the car will run fine and not stall. i was curious if a tune up would fix this or if there is a smaller fix such as a sensor.
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Twice now in the past week, my 2001 Jetta has become possessed. While driving along, the radio turns off. Then the warning lights all come on. If I use the turn signal the radio springs back to life and other weird electrical things happen. Eventually the car stalls. When I try to restart it, the warning lights all come on and the dashboard makes a click-click-clicking sound, and that's it. The first time, my mechanic said the alternator wasn't working correctly, but that he revved the engine and it kicked in. He then tested the alternator and battery and said both were ok. Is this an alternator problem? Something else?
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I have a 86 Ranger with the 2.3L fuel injected 4 cylinder and a 5 speed manual transmission. I can drive it for hours on the highway but if I get caught in stop and go traffic, it stalls and won't restart for about 10 minutes. When trying to restart it acts as if it is fuel starved. Spraying carb cleaner in the throttle body does make it run for a second or two. I was getting a code 18 & 67 before I changed the ignition module, now I just get code 67 or 11. I have done the following:
-Changed both fuel pumps, tank and frame rail pump (did one at a time, no improvement)
-Changed all fuel filters (in line filter, fuel reservoir filter and tank filter)
-Changed ignition module on distributer
-Changed both relays that control fuel pumps
-Cleaned battery terminals and body ground connections.
-New gas tank fill cap
I'm at a loss now as to what to do. I have been checking the codes with my multi-meter. I do not have a OBD1 diagnostic tool.
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Passat B6, 2009 TDI CR, 140 bhp, DSG.
Having an issue that's bugging me. all cold starts are fine. However, if I drive a short distance then try to restart the engine cranks, sounds like it catches but stalls.
It takes 2-4 retries to get it going, i'm not releasing the key too early as this happens even when I hold the key in.
I've not been able to get a VAG-COM on it yet but would like to know whether this is likely to be something simple or, if it's time to sell the car?
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1999 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder 126k milesWhen my car runs, it works very well. Sometimes, though, it stalls - just shuts off. When I try to restart it, it turns over, but immediately stops, almost as if it gets no gas. I keep trying, and eventually it starts, but it can take more than 30 tries. It has happened when the car is cold and when it is fully warmed up. It has happened while traveling at 10 MPH and while going 75 on the Mass Pike. It's happened in warm weather and cold, while the sun shone and during rain storms. The car might run perfectly for 3 days, but then stall 4 times on my way home from work. This has been going on for more than a year, but has become much more frequent in the last couple of months.
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I drive a 1995 olds Supreme 3.1 that has 125,000 miles. It runs like a dream but I have been having one problem I cannot pinpoint a solution for. When started cold, it runs and drives perfectly all day long, no problem. However once it reaches operating temperature and is shut off for a short period of time, it shudders and stalls upon restart. Then it does not restart until the engine is cool. The problem has been intermittent and not as much of an issue during the winter, but as spring approaches I worry it may become a bigger problem.
It has had a recent tune up: new spark plugs, wires, radiator, hoses, fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter, and water pump. This issue existed before all these parts were replaced.
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My 6.0 stalls when its warm and it restarts no problem. no codes are given with scan gauge. No changes on icp or ipr when it happens. At idle icp ranges 577 to 737, fmp 47.5 to 48v, ipr 23 to 28, map 14.9, tfc .32. all at idle. all increase when rpm goes up. ive done the d plugs, sct plug ficm replaced 2 yrs ago. done egr delete, need to trouble shoot? Again no codes given...
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I have a 2010 F150 SCREW with 4.6l 3v 4wd. Up to 100,000 miles nothing more than tires, brakes, and evap purge valve (50,000 miles). Check engine light came on right around 100,000 miles and had no driving problems other than some crappy fuel mileage. Did the following:
Changed evap purge valve, reset cpu by unplugging. CEL came back on after about 200 miles
Took the truck to a shop to get oil change, change plugs, diff fluids, transfer case fluid and get CEL looked at. Shop recommended changing intake gasket as you could see gummy type fluid on passenger side valve cover. When removing the intake found the intake cracked, changed gasket and intake. They reset the light. 200 to 250 miles later the CEL came back on.
Took it back to the same shop, left it with them for the weekend. they think it could be the O2 sensors. I went out and got the shop all 4 O2 sensors and they installed for free (seeing as I spent $2500 with them for all the previous weekends work) 200 to 250 miles CEL came back on
Determined to find time to have another shop look at the problem and trying to get it to a family friend, wasted about a month. At the end of February stopped at a friends house after being there for 20 minutes tried to start truck, it wouldn't fire. It would crank but no fire. Called for a tow and while waiting tried to crank the truck and it fired up, like nothing was wrong. Cancelled the tow truck and drove right to dealership. They determined it was the MAF sensor. Spent the $500 to have them diagnose and change MAF. All things good for about a month and about 3000 miles...
Now in the past 2 weeks it has done the following: I am a construction manager so i am in and out of my truck all day so the engine is never really a cold start except for the mornings when driving to work, it stalled while leaving work on a Friday at low speed. luckily I was able to pull in to a gas station. Tried to restart and it cranked but no fire. after 5 minutes or so tried again, fired up drove home the 35 miles with no problem, truck had power, smooth idle. No CEL.
Same weekend on Sunday, coming home from church at highway speed truck got sluggish, wrench light came on, no response to throttle. Rolled to a stop and then the oil light came on and chime from dash. Turned the key all the way off waited 10 seconds, again crank but no start. Waited 5 minutes and it fired up no problem. Church is only 3 or 4 miles away, no problem going to church, 2 miles into the trip home is when it stalled.
Drove all week, 500 plus miles without a stall or problem
Coming home on Saturday from my kids soccer game again 4 or 5 miles away (no problem going to game) truck stalled at highway speed. Coast to a stop, wrench comes on and then oil light, chimes from dash. Turn key off, wrench and oil light do not come back on. Try to start, again crank but no fire. waited the 5 minutes or so and it fired up fine. (Earlier in the day i got gas, 87 octane, from a one of my regular gas stations from 1/4 tank to full)
Today coming home from church but running an errant the truck stalls after making a left turn about 3 miles from the church at low speed.
All of this without a CEL. What can solve this problem. Clean a sensor? clean throttle body? Gas tank additives? I am due for an oil change and may ask the dealer to look at it but its going to be time consuming as I cant radially repeat the problem and there is no CEL. As I am thinking about the different times it stalled, other than the first time I was probably around 1900 to 2300 rpm.
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