Camry :: 2011 - Starting To Burn Oil
Mar 18, 2014
I have a 2011 Camry LE 2.5L 4cyl that is starting to burn oil, I would say that it goes from the full to low mark every 5000km (3000mi). I have been using Toyota 0w20 oil since day 1, it has about 242,000km (151k miles) on it currently. Do you think switching to a thicker oil such as 5w20 would work?
I love the Camry, I had a 2006 2.4L SE before. To me, the Camry strikes a perfect balance between style, functionality, and of course reliability.
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Starting to use or burn oil after hitting 180K..... a tech said that maybe need a clean out...
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2011 Camry LE, 76k, new alternator, stars well cold, battery good, runs well... Just takes longer to start after its warm, cranks well, engine turns over well, idle great....
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HID's in your fog lights, any burn marks or anything of that sort. I have had HID's in my fogs for 7months or so and last week I stared noticing a burn mark on both fog lights. Now I do have film on the housing so I first thought that maybe it was the film burning up and not the fog lens. I'm asking because I can have my film replaced for free, I just have to send in some photos to prove it. But before I do that I wanted to make sure that it was the film that got burned 100% and not the fog light lens in case I needed that replaced also. I kinda don't want to take off the film just to see if its the lens or film.
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My check engine light kicked on about 6 months ago. The code was for the catalytic converter, which I did not replace because it is less than 2yrs old. It would go on and off intermittently, and for the last week it has remained off. All the other dash lights work fine, and I know it's not the fuse...
'97 Toyota Camry, 231,000 miles.
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how do I check the transmission oil on my 2011 Camry LE (2ARFE). I am curious as this car has 98K miles now and I cannot locate the dipstick for the Transmission oil. I got the car 2 years ago at 89K miles.
A technician once told me it's going to be a flush.
I only do 135 miles every week and I am located in Africa.
How do I check the transmission oil and how often should I change it?
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drl headlights always burn instead of running lights when the truck is started. How can I correct it?
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About, 2013 GS 350 AWD, I know the cd drive takes mp3 format and I am planning to burn a cd mp3. Can I burn a DVD mp3 since it holds more songs? Does it accept 4.7gb or 8.5gb dvd mp3 data format? Also, I have the ipod classic 140gb and have plenty of songs, i am planning to give it to her. Is the connection easy as plugging in the usb port?
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Our radio has the lights out on those two buttons.
Makes the car feel "old" .. 2007 60k miles ..
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Having issues with headlights burning out in their 2010 Prius??? I had my bulbs replaced at 49,000 miles and they burned out again before 55,000 miles. They both burned out within two/three days of each other. I took it into the dealership and they weren't useful at all....
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So, just recently i had both of my DRLs burn out. They both burnt out at the same time which I thought was weird but I thought that it was because of how cold it was here that it may have happened that way. So, I bought new ones and replaced one side and went to check it, nothing. Took it back out, checked the connections and reinstalled it. Nothing again. I looked at the fuses but didn't notice any blown ones so I am stating to think it is a head light switch.
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Yesterday I took my car out, stopped at a gas station and the car wouldn't start. When trying to start it, everything inside would come on but it would just click. We were able to jump start it. After that I was able to start it 2 more times. the next time i tried to start it, it did the same thing, but the jump didn't work. We went and bought a new battery and it still isn't starting. It isn't clicking anymore though. It kinda hums when it tries to turn over. Does this seem like a starter issue?
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I have the problem with my Prius 2011 year. The car have the accident and not starting. It was a lot of problem with hybrid system, transmission, air bag, engine room. Now I bought new engine control computer, airbag and transmission control from Toyota dealer. now I want to start my Prius but he not starting. NO fault codes in hybrid system, engine control, transmission. Only in anti-brake system. All wiring is good but are some fault
1) C1203 ECM communication circuit malfunction
2) C1231 Steering angle sensor circuit
3) C1247 stroke sensor
4) C1345 linear solenoid valve offset learning undone
5) C1392 zero point calibration of stroke sensor undone.
And i want to now how to synchronize my engine control because in ECM information not write my car model ZVW---. I read some forum it's necessary to tether the engine computer.
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I have an 06...I hear a little whine & burn smell...
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So I tried using a faulty cellphone charger in one of my charging ports. I heard a loud click and now my car is not starting. So, the first thing I looked at was the fuse for the start and engine, thinking they may have been blown, but that was not the case.... Where do I go from here?
I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T
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I have a very intermittent problem when starting my car. Usually it is when it's very hot outside, although not always. Start the car with the AC on, recirc, after about 3-5 seconds its a very loud "slide whistle" type sound (going from lower to higher, pretty high pitched). It only lasts about a second and sounds like something opening and creaking? Brought it to the dealership before, but its so intermittent that I doubt they tried very hard to find it. It probably only happens once or twice a month and will not duplicate if I turn off the car and start it again.
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I've owned my 2012 sonata 4 cylinder since new. It now has 54k and all of a sudden tonight it is hard starting. I drove it to my buddies to put my snow tires on and after I was done I went to start it and it cranked over a bunch before starting. It's not slow like a battery. Part way home the check engine light came on. I came home disconnected the battery. Tightened the gas cap just in case and tried starting it again after 1/2 hour. Still cranked a bunch before it started. When it starts it idles smooth still. When I give it gas from idle it sputters a bit then revs right up.
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My wife couldnt get her 2011 SE to start this morning. It engine turns over strong but it wouldn't start. Brake lights worked. Brake pedal very hard. Tried several times but would not start. Finally I jumped battery just in case and it cranked. Don't know if this was coincidence or not. Car is two years old and only 30k. I checked for interior lights being left on or other things that might drain the battery.
Could a low Fob battery cause this? Brake switch? No codes thrown. Taking in to dealer but wanted to rule out a simple fix.
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Went to start the car this mourning & it was completely dead. No power to anything. Last used the car on friday & everything was fine. It looks like the fuse on the + lead is blown but I don't know how to replace it.
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My car was randomly not starting for past 2 months. I would get in the car, press the break pedal and push the start button. The car would not start and the ignition would just go to ON. I turned the ignition off, closed and reopened the door with the remote and then was able to start it. Few days later the trick stopped working. Did some research and found something on faulty P gear selector sensor. They recommended starting the car on N. That has been working for me for few weeks until one day this tricked stopped working for me. I decided to replace remote battery and had no issue for past two weeks. New remote batteries solved my problem.
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I have a 2011 Sonata and had the front pads and rotors changed a few months ago. Started to hear this squeaking noise when starting up from a stop (between ~5-15 mph). Check out the audio/video here...this is me basically holding my cellphone out of the driver side window: [URL] ....
It occurs intermittently and sometimes doesn't occur at all. The more the car is warmed up, the more often it seems to occur. Techs at Hyundai couldn't figure it out. They made me replace the rotors and pads with OEM parts and surprise, surprise, the same exact noise is occurring. I don't see how it can be wheel bearings...there is no rumbling noise or roughness at all. But the squeaking is killing me.
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