Camry :: 2011 SE Beeps 3 Times When Open Door While Running
Feb 25, 2013
While my camry is running if a passenger gets out the car and if I have the smart key the car will beep three times and show the key light in the dash. If i pick the key up and move it to the button the key light goes away. Is this normal or is there an issues? I just moved up to this car from a 97 camry and could not find an answer.
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I have had this happen two or three times and don't know how to reproduce reliably. With my FOB in me, car beeps a few times when trying to open the driver's door. This is repeatable when in this mode; that is, trying to open the door produces few beeps but door will not open. The last time this happened, I clicked the open button in the FOB, and this produced the few beeps without unlocking the door. The passenger door opens, and my wife can unlock driver's door from the inside, and then I can turn car on and go as if nothing had happened. The best I recall this has happened in the garage. which is why the passenger door is unlocked, but don't know why driver's door is locked. Again, this has not happened enough to recall the pattern.
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So, I bought a 2012 camry se about 2 months ago and as soon as I got it home I noticed a clicking in the drivers side door when I open and close it. There's three clicks before its fully open, I'm thinking that it clicks at every stop point the door has. I know there's some models that have this put it stock so the wind doesn't blow your door shut on you, is this what it is? I tried looking online about it but couldn't really find anything.
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What that is for?
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My left side, rear door I have to pull the handle two times to open the door.
1st time: opens 1/4 inch
2nd time: fully opens
I checked the problem a bit, saw the same problem on a MKV where they opened the handle and they had to adjust a little thingy ?
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Strangest thing just happened. Went to go open my door as I always do, and when I touched the handle sensor it beeped several times (more than the 2 times it does to unlock), and it didn't unlock. I would use my keyfob to hit unlock, but again when I tried to pull the handle open it was locked and kept beeping.
The passenger side seemed to work. Eventually I used the physical key to unlock the driver door and it worked. Didn't happen again after I locked/unlocked. Was there an issue with the electronic locking/unlocking mechanism?
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When our 2008 Outback (75K miles) is running the garage door remote in the car will not open or close the door. New batteries in the remote, so that can't be the cause. We have to turn the car motor off, operate the remote, then start the car again. We have to follow the same procedure when getting back into the garage. This just started about a month ago and does not happen with any of the other cars in the garage when opening or closing the same door, i.e. the remotes operate with their motors running. Is it possible there is some new electrical discharge from the car that is causing this? Something unusual with the alternator? Other possible causes?
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It seems like you can't... It can't be unlocked if you have keyless entry so long as the car is running... Why? Any way around this?
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I just got my Prius less than a week ago. It's a 2012 Pearl White basic Prius with solar panel sunroof/navigation package. (Canadian). I make sure everything is fully off when I go to turn my car off. I hold down the brake and press the start button for at least 2 seconds and everything turns right off. However, when I go back into my car after a few hours, or the next morning, soon as I open the door I notice the interior fan is running! What the heck? This has been doing this since I got it. Does it just come on automatically when I open my door (annoying) or is this running the entire time I'm not in the car?
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Factory alarm system.
Sometimes I unlock my car and it beeps a couple times, sometimes it beeps more.
What do the various beeps mean?
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Six year old car, 115k on the clock. Starting last week, I've been unable to unlock the doors on the es. Whether it's via the key fob or the sensors on the door handles. I've noticed the behaviour in the morning when it's cold, so I'm assuming it's mechanical. When the weather warms up, everything seems to work again. I've done some research here and while nothing turned up for our es's, I think it might be the actuators for the locks based on responses I've seen from the is and gs owners.
I guess the weird part for me is that all locks but the driver door lock seem to have failed - all at the same time. I can lock, but not unlock. Trying to figure if there's singe common point of failure which would cause three failures simultaneously. Perhaps it's just coincidence? I'm fully prepared to remove the panels and tackle this project.
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This morning the Fuel Door can't open, after I tried 7-8 times it opened. So I drove the the dealer, but after I arrive there it can open with each push. The car did that fuel door TSB last month.
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2012 Prius Five. Dealer installed remote start using the stock key fob. This is the one where you push the twice button twice then press it and hold it for three seconds. The emergency lights flash while in remote start but the car shuts down when a door is opened.
A few problems I'm having is that first off the range stinks. I'm used to a chrysler remote start that I could turn on from the far end of my house and I'd hear the car beep twice to know it was turning on. Plus you can hear the V8 start. The Prius makes no noise so my only confirmation is to look out the window and make sure the flashers are flashing. Any way to have the horn beep to confirm? speaking of which, does this car have a horn?
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Just curious-- After several hours of not running, I open the driver door and hear a pump of some kind start up and run under the hood. Runs for a while then stops. How long seems to depend on how long the car has sat there, but about 30 seconds max. What it is?
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My 2000 v6 beeps 3 times when i turn it on and flashes the word STOP! while leaving the abs light illuminated on the dash as well as the brake light. The car also feels a little shaky while slowing down if touching the brakes, and when accelerating in first gear it tends to buck slightly. Also I had a new flywheel, clutch, tranny all the works just put in last summer, is it a problem that the clutch is at the top, when i first got it back with the new tranny it was releasing at the floor.
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While driving tonight I was making a right turn and I heard two short beeps and my interior light flashed on and off two times. This happened three more times after stopping and when I put my foot on the gas again the interior light came on and then off again, no flashing or no beeps.
I just hit my 16,000 mile mark on my 2014 Prius C two.
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I have 2006 single cab stx and the little orange airbag guy below the speedometer has been on over a year and a half and he always flashes a code 51, but I've never worried about it.
About a month ago I started occasionally getting the 5 beeps 5 times, and now it does it more frequently but not every time. The Passenger Airbag Light above the radio works properly. It comes on when I start the truck and then goes off. When I put weight on the seat (usually my Jack Russell who only weighs 14lbs) it turns on and stays, and if the seat belt is buckled with no weight it also stays on. This is proper function correct ?
I've tried things I've read from replacing or cleaning up the crash sensor in front of the radiator, even cleaned the connections under the seats with contact cleaner, pulled fuses and none of them are blown. Are the code 51 and the beeping alarm somehow connected ?
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Just bought a great 2011 Venza with 75000 Texan highway miles. Now that the car is home, I've discovered that:
-- both of the remote fobs will lock and unlock the car doors,-- but neither of the two keys will lock or unlock the driver's door (the only one with a key slot, you know).
The key turns freely to right and left, with a slight, normal-feeling resistance. But nothing happens. No doors lock or unlock.
I've tried graphite in the key slot and working the key in and out. No luck.
So it seems 1) the keys are fine, as they start the car when put into the ignition.
And 2) the locks themselves also seem to be fine: both remotes lock and unlock the doors.
But 3) the driver's door can't be locked or unlocked using the key.
What worries me is that the car battery will die and I won't be able to unlock the car door in order to pop the hood open.
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I have a 2011 I4 camry. I recently ran out of gas and decided to keep trying to see maybe if the car would turn on. After all that i gave up cranking the car on and decided to push to a gas station. After putting in gas (93 octane) I realized i have my check engine light on and another light which depicts a car with 2 swiggly lines.What that light means but its to the right of of lcd display which shows your mileage. I am taking the car tomorrow to the dealership but I was wondering is there any way i can check the codes without an obd scanner (the thing that checks for codes). Do you think I ruined my engine after trying to start the car multiple times without gas?
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Is there any way to keep the interior lights and running board lights from coming on when you open the doors, really would like to keep them off all the time.
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I just got a 2011 LX 570. The power rear door/tailgate opens just fine when pressing the button inside the car, or on the key fob. And closing it works fine as well from there as well as from the button on the door. However, when I press the larger "unlock" button on the tailgate itself, it does not open by itself. I have to manually open it.
I've read in a couple of places that this is a setting that the dealer must changed...IE to make that large unlock button also open the tailgate by itself instead of having to manually open it.
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