Yesterday while driving to work the acceleration on my car just died; the engine was running and the car was in drive. I lost power steering and all the dash lights came on. I was driving down the road about 55mph and it just died, but the engine stayed on. What could cause this problem?
2011 Toyota Camry LE ...
My 2005 Camry XLE 3.0 V6 is exhibiting engine jerkiness over 55MPH. The OBD II reader shows a group of codes:
0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire
0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire detected
0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire detected
0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
2195 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank 1 sensor 1
From what I can find in the forum I cant quite tell whether I should be looking at bad gas, overfill of oil, vacuum leak or bad O2 sensor (the expensive one before the cat).
Changing the gas or checking the oil is easy enough. where would one look for the vacuum leak that would cause this type of problem? Is getting the O2 sensor out of the upper bank as much of a beast as it sounds in some of the threads (better left to a "real" mechanic?).
I have a 2002 Celica GT.
It was driving fine for a few months after buying it and now all of a sudden it will just die while driving down the road. It will start and idle fine for hours but after about 15 minutes of driving it down the road it will just die without any kind of notification. It will start back up and run again after I let it sit for 15-20 minutes but will do it all over again but if I try starting it right after it dies, it will start and immediately die again. The only codes it is reading is the #1 spark plug is misfiring, but it has been that way since I bought the car.
I was told to clean the O2 sensor and throttle body, which I did and it ran fine for a few days but is back to dying randomly.
I have a 2005 Camry and it was stalling while driving occasionally. It had gotten worse, so I cleaned the throttle body as was suggested. Now, when I try to start it, the engine revs really high then goes back down and dies. This is without putting any pressure on the accelerator. What to do next?
View 1 RepliesGot this truck used, it is a 2001 F150 4 door lariat 5.4, 4x4. It now has around 108k miles on it. The truck dies while driving down the road every couple weeks or so. It will restart after a minute or so and then seems to be fine. The ABS light is on, no codes or CE light.
The last couple months while your going down the road it revs up to 4k rpms or so while your driving like the OD is turning off. The other day it wouldn't start in the morning, I changed the fuel pump relay and it fired right up. I put the old relay back in and it still fired up!!!!
I decided to take it to the dealer today and on the way to town it shifted out of gear while driving at speed, the speedo turned off and the odometer turned off as well. I shifted to N and then back to D, nothing, I hit the OD button and it flashed but still no go so I coasted to a stop, truck was running at idle.
I turned it off, restarted and everything worked just fine again and went on my way to the dealer. Still no CE lights.
I got a 2013 Turbo. This morning I gave it 90% throttle and I got shaking, check Engine light flashed on and stayed on until I layed off the gas. It drives fine under regular throttle, but for ie. Passing someone on the highway.. Yeah ain't happening, idk if it just won't downshift, or the turbo is acting up.
I have an Injen intake and Had it installed since day one or two of ownership. Bought the car brand new, it has 43k miles, and I usually give it WOT a few times a day ()
But it's weird how all of a sudden it's doing this, I tried restarting the car, leaving it to rest for a while and same result. I personally think it's the tranny not being able to downshift, even holding a gear at high RPM, it shakes. Turbo sounds like it's working fine but who knows what's going on under the hood.
So, for the first time in 6 years and 82K miles, the engine light (malfunction indicator light) came on while driving and stayed on (no blinking... knock on wood). This is about a week after passing the emissions test. I turned the gas cap three ticks, so I'm hoping that the light will go off in a few days.
The manual seems to say that if it blinks you should proceed at reduced power and get it checked out immediately. Do I have to drive slow if it's not blinking? I'm a good two hours from home and I'd prefer to drive at my normal pace. This is probably nothing, right?
I have a 1991 Honda Accord with 280k miles on it.
Question: what would be reasons the engine dies when in operation? I had not noticed anything wrong with the car other than I noticed it may take the automatic transmission a little longer time to shift gears.
While I was on the road, i felt something happening under the hood and noticed the car was losing power. the battery and oil level lights went on and needed to pull the car to the side of the road for obvious reason!
The car was towed back to my house. During the ride back the guy who was towing the car said that the engine turned over when he turned on the ignition.
I did the same thing when I got home and the car started up just fine. Nothing else noticed. The oil level was at normal level. I drove the car a couple times around the block.
The engine is due for a tune up and there sometimes is some vibration. This car has been very reliable. But I obviously can not have situation where the engine dies when on the road!
My car has a distinct pull to the left when driving on a flat straight road. If I let go of the steering wheel the wheel actually turns about 5 degrees left of centre and the car goes in that direction.
Had an alignment from lexus edinburgh last year and again from another garage yesterday,
Still pulls and I have to physically hold the steering wheel centre when driving.
Car is 2011 IS F UK
Attached is my alignment spec from yesterday, Is it the caster issue as this can't be adjusted? If it is what's required?
How do I set my navigation so when I am traveling over my speed limit it will show the current speed limit of the road or highway.
I use to use a after market gps years ago that would automatically show the speed limit of each road or highway I am on if I was passing the limit.
I have a 2007 Camry that starts and runs fine, but after driving a short distance it dies. After sitting for some time, the car starts back up and runs fine again.
View 2 RepliesI have an xc90 D5 awd. It has about 200 000 km on the clock. It started cutting out a month ago while driving on a gravel road. After cutting out about 10 times I just tried are 2nd key and it hasn't given us the problem ever again. I then went to Volvo who told me to replace the key .. R4200 rand.. Insane I obviously didn't go thru with it been using the other key ever since.
View 2 RepliesMy 2012 RX350 now for over a year and like it a lot.........BUT.
There's seems to be a lot "road noise" that's transmitted back into the cabin, like driving over expansion joints on blacktop or rough road surface, is this normal?
I drove a 2000 RX300 for 100,000 miles and don't remember it being this noisy. Interior noise is great and quiet.
I just purchased a 2008 Toyota Yaris. The car is excellent with only one exception. When above 55mph, I hear a pulsing noise - a constant evenly spaced noise similar to an engine that is lightly revving on and off. If I take my foot off the gas, it goes away. Press again while I'm above 55mph, and it pulses again. I have no loss of acceleration, no bucking, and the rpm gauge is steady as she goes. It is an automatic. No noises or anything under 55mph. I'm perplexed.
View 2 RepliesI recently inherited an s10 that works fine but has a very quirky condition. The engine will stop randomly with no warning while driving down the road after turning off the ignition, wait a minute or two, turn it back on and it works fine for a few more days or couple of weeks, but has been driving me crazy, and isn't very safe The check engine light is on and the code read a bad crank sensor, so I got that replaced, and it didn't fix the issue so the mechanic said that the next step would be to replace the ignition module with the ignition coils.
View 1 RepliesI have an 88 volvo 244Dl with major hesitation while driving down the road. I recently had a no start issue and after a week at the shop it was fixed. During that repair it received: New Dist, cap, rotor, timing belt, coolant sensor, plugs, wires. With the hesitation I checked vacuum lines, cleaned T/B and MAA.
One thing I noticed, which seems weird... When the engine is hesitating, missing.. the radio becomes somewhat staticy. The reception of the radio mimics the hesitation of the engine.
While driving my car on the highway the engine died on me. I made several attempts to start the car again with no success. The mechanic has yet to find what the problem is. He has checked the timing belt, fuel pump, and everything else.
View 2 RepliesMy 1985 Saab 900 turbo has been dying while being driven. Suddenly, and usually while the car is relatively hot and in traffic, the engine will die while driving. Usually it will die when at a light stopped but not always. This has never happened before the last week or so, but the car has always had trouble with cold starts and will die while idling when the ignition is first turned. This hasn't been diagnosed. At times a lot of smoke will come from the exhaust, and this has not had a trigger (too much oil, hard driving, etc) but the car did pass smog in California (the strictest state!). Just now, a light I've never seen (and I've had 2 80's Saabs) came on the dash which said EXH, which I read could be regarding the o2 sensor?
View 3 RepliesVitals - 2004 Ford 350 Diesel 6.0L, Approx 80k miles. Purchased a year ago, driven approx 8k over the year, not a daily driver but typically taken on at least two 45 mile drives (highway, country, and urban roads) once a week but often more and also used for long trips. Truck has had regular maintenance and no issues.
Symptoms: After loading mulch (by hand so it wasn't much weight), truck drove fine for 25 miles. After restart (got coffee and donuts), truck was fine through town but accelerating from 25mph to 55mph engine noise was louder and sharper. noise persisted when engine was above approx 1500rpms. After a period of time driving over 65mph, noise stopped and engine behaved normally. Even with the noise, engine never seemed to lose power.
Since that time(one week), about 50% of starts have resulted in the noise with no clear pattern of hot vs cold starts. Even after starts where the noise occurs, if the engine is pushed to 70mph sometimes the noise stops and it not present for the rest of the drive even at those lower rpms where the noise was previously present. I don't know if the noise would happen in park with a revved engine without going into drive but if I shift to neutral while the noise is occurring, it persists. Noise is definitely not related to vehicle speed but rather engine speed because going downhill if gas is taken off, the noise is not present regardless of speed.
I bought my 2007 Santa Fe with 112,000 miles in April. It ran fine until about a month ago. When I turned the key to aux, the radio and lights came on but when I tried to start it I lost all power. Turning the key off and back on had no effect, it acted like the battery was dead. I opened the hood and noticed the pos cable was loose on the terminal. As soon as I touched it I heard a click, the security light started blinking and it started fine.
A week later as I was driving on the highway the electricity started blinking in and out and the car would shutter as it lost and regained power, then eventually died completely but the radio was still on. I got to the shoulder and tried to turn it back on but even though the radio and lights worked, nothing happened when I tried to start it. I lodged a matchstick between the pos terminal and the cable to make sure the connection was tight and it started. Driving home the power would occasionally stutter when I hit a bump but it never died completely.
I used a battery and alternator tester that plugs into the cigarette lighter and both registered as fine. I've driven it to work, about 2 miles, several times since and the power sometimes cuts out at bumpy parts of the road and it has died completely twice while sitting still at a light. The clock doesn't reset when it dies so, knowing nothing about electrical systems, I would guess that the electricity isn't being entirely lost. Every time it dies the radio and lights still come on but I have to get out and jiggle the pos cable to get it to restart. While driving the battery and seat belt lights flash randomly. A friend told me to try removing the pos cable while it's running and that if it died, it was probably the alternator. Tried it and the engine died immediately. Don't know what this means since the alternator tested fine.
I have a Honda Accord that has a very strange kind of failure. I've taken it to two mechanics - both fixed "something" - but I'm still without a car.
99 Honda Accord LX202,019 Miles
My check engine light is on and one time while driving down the road my car turns off. I need to make a road trip so I go see Mechanic 1.
Mechanic 1 - Check engine light had been on and his machine tells him the O2 sensors need to be replaced. We replace both. Light goes off. When asked about the 'spontaneous shutoff' - said it was a fluke and probably no big deal. He can't see anything other than what the computer tells him to replace.
Instrument panel currently shows no lights on. Everything works normally. I drive 1500 miles back to Wi and right as I get there....
Case 1 - I am driving down the street (residential, freeway, whatever) going any speed and the instrument panel suddenly loses all power. Speedometer drops to 0. Odometer drops to 0. The cabin (radio, clock) remain on and undisturbed. Engine is completely unresponsive to depressing the pedal and seems to be completely disengaged. The car is hard to steer but can be angled off the road. (but you can still hear your music....hooray...as you try to not get killed dodging off the side of the road)
Case 2 - On the side of the road/parking lot and the car will not turn on. Seems like it is about to start, but then dies before completing turning over. You wait 15 minutes. Then the car will actually turn over a bit more, but still not complete a start.
Case 3 - As I start the car I press the gas and rev the engine up to 4K RPMs for 4 seconds. The car then remains on. I drive for as long as it will go before Case 1 happens again.
While in WI I take it to a mechanic 2.
Mechanic 2 - Runs a test and believes there is a failure in the ignition assembly. Replaces 1 part that spans 3 different parts because he believes its cheaper to do that than to have him go all the way in there to get the 1 that he thinks is bad.
I drive the car 1400 back to AZ and Case 2 happens when we stop to get supplies. I perform case 3, the car starts and we make it back to California alive.
I try to drive the car around locally after getting back but cases 1-3 happen every other time I drive it.
Case X - The car sat idle for a few weeks as I thought it was "not safe to drive." Power locks on the car start to fail. No longer can get into the car without putting a key in a door and only that door will open. Car now has no power.