Camry :: 2011 LE - Hard Starting When Warm
Oct 2, 2015
2011 Camry LE, 76k, new alternator, stars well cold, battery good, runs well... Just takes longer to start after its warm, cranks well, engine turns over well, idle great....
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Oct 2, 2015
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Camry :: Hard To Start When Warm At Operating Temperature
My Camry has 185,809 miles on the 4 cylinder, it has recently started to be hard to start when it's at operating temperature, has code P0301 and p0302 replaced spark plugs at 185,000 miles no change, possibly ignition coils?
View 1 RepliesCamry :: 2010 LE I4 - Hard / Hesitant Start When Warm
I have a 2010 Toyota Camry LE V4 version, it has about 47k miles on it and about 4.5 yrs old. I have developed a problem over the past few months where the car will crank fine in the morning or when cold (sitting around for several hours or overnight) However if the car is Warm when driven for about 10 miles or more, then parked and then started again in 15-20 minutes it will feel hesitant to start, seems like it takes several cranks before starting and literally feels like it will die while cranking but it will eventually start.
i have the original stock battery, i got it checked at O'Reilly and they confirmed that battery, stater, alternator looked good and cold cranking amps looked good and other items checked out as well fine.
I am not sure what the issue might be at this time, However since the problem is at random and only when outside is like a 100F (which it is not now) and it is warm/hot (driven after 10+ miles), i am not sure what is wrong with the car. I have been using Top Tier gas for the most part, however i had used Arco for about 3-4 months during the Spring/Summer of 2013.
Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Hard Brake Pedal Before Starting Vehicle
I am experiencing a hard brake pedal about every other day if the car sits overnight. I know I am not depleting the vacuum supply before I exit the vehicle by pressing the brake pedal. Some mornings the pedal is very hard and barely moves and other mornings it's normal. My brake booster vacuum check valve hose assembly was replaced to try and fix the problem but it still does it. I also know my electric vacuum pump works correctly. Is it normal? Do I have a small leak in the brake booster vacuum diaphragm? I have no other brake feel issues.
View 8 RepliesCamry :: 2011 - Starting To Burn Oil
I have a 2011 Camry LE 2.5L 4cyl that is starting to burn oil, I would say that it goes from the full to low mark every 5000km (3000mi). I have been using Toyota 0w20 oil since day 1, it has about 242,000km (151k miles) on it currently. Do you think switching to a thicker oil such as 5w20 would work?
I love the Camry, I had a 2006 2.4L SE before. To me, the Camry strikes a perfect balance between style, functionality, and of course reliability.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F350 - Hard Starting / Cranks Through 2 Cycles Sometimes Before It Fires
My 2011 f-350 6.2l cold starts hard, it cranks through 2 cycles sometimes before it fires, then it might stall. Sometimes it stalls if I put it into drive or reverse before its warmed up. It has also misfired on one or several cylinders during startup. It has also misfired while driving. It has never stalled when driving. I have replaced the canister purge valve, I have done a full tune up with all factory plugs. All with no change to how it starts. My next step is a Pcv valve, I have one coming from ford today.
View 5 RepliesCamry :: 2009 Hard Time Starting And Running Rough
My moms 09 camry has a hard time starting and runs rough. I found out that when my father went to get an oil change, they put in 5W-30. The engine cap on the engine says 0W-20 or 5W-20. The car is at 70K and it has never had any issues, always ran smoothly, always started... until the last oil change. I have looked through the all the service logs and it seems that the last 3 services, they also used 5W-30 oil in the car.
View 14 RepliesCamry :: 2003 - Hard Time Starting For A While Then Completely Dead
So I have an 03' Camry le 4 cyl. And it has been having a hard time starting for a while. Finally it completely died. I tried to jump it but accidentally hooked up the jumper cable on the other car backwards. The car then wouldn't even try to start, found and replaced the alt fuse in the engine compartment (what a pita), so I jumped it correctly and it started, but would not move when shifted Into drive or reverse. When in gear pushing the gas pedal does nothing, no rpms at all.
View 2 RepliesCamry :: 2011 SE - Bad Smell From Vents When Accelerating Hard
So I've been noticing this for a while, pretty much ever since ive had my car. I have a 2011 camry se v6 and when i go hard on the gas from a dead stop or accelerating on a on ramp on to the freeway i get this smell coming from the vents that smell like rotten eggs or something and my friend in the back said he can smell it too. This only happens when i accelerate really fast and shoot up to or over 4500-5000 rpm, why? i use cheveron 89 gas which is plus.
View 14 RepliesCamry :: 2011 Tranny Shifts Hard Between Gears
I have a 2011 camry se 4cyl with 15k miles. Just wanted to know if you have to change Trans Fluid because my tranny shifts hard between gears.
View 3 RepliesDodge - Journey :: 2011 - Pulls Hard To The Right On Hard Acceleration?
My 2011 Dodge Journey, V-6, auto, awd, pulls hard to the right on hard acceleration. It always pulls just as the transmission shifts. My dealer's service manager said its due to the front drive shafts being different lengths and torgueing differently.
View 7 RepliesIntrigue :: Can't Stay Running After Starting When Engine Is Warm - No Codes
I have a 1998 Intrigue with over 225,000 miles. It seems to run well for the most part. However....
After I have driven the car for a while and gotten it up to temperature, if I stop and let it cool for a while, when I go to start it up again, it will start easily and then immediately die. Almost like the fuel got cut off. My work around at this time is that if I manually keep the rpms up using the gas pedal it will stay running. If I take my foot off to quick it will still die but if I can do it or 20 to 40 seconds it will stay running.
Other clues:
There are no codes.
If I only drive for a shorter time, when I go to start the engine it will start but it will rev up and down (sometimes for up to ten seconds) before settling down to the proper idle.
When I start the car in the morning, it will start right up but tends to rev above 1200 rpms for about a minute or two before it will settle down.
What has been changed in the past couple of years:
IAC
MAF
EGR
Crankshaft Sensor
Wires (but not plugs)
Also the throttle body was cleaned pretty thoroughly. The guy who did it did think that the throttle body gasket was kinda iffy but intact.
I checked the FPR but no fuel leaked from it even after running the engine for five minutes.
Injectors could be going bad, maybe?? But wouldn't that cause problems other than just at a warm start?
Starting - Impala - Engines - Chevrolet :: Engine Cranking But Does Not Restart When Warm
02 Chevy Impala with 177,000 miles has re-starting problems for last 20,000 miles. New Battery, cleaned throttle plate, new fuel pump, check engine light on (emission problem was told to me by mechanic). Whats going on?
When the car runs it runs very well...to get the car started, just wait, sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes longer than an hour. All the time periodically cranking the engine...just does not start. But when it does start, it runs very well.
This problems occurs only after the car has started and is warm. Let it sit for a while then restarting the problem occurs.
Gmc - Sierra :: At Warm Hard Start?
I recenty replaced the upper intake manifold gasket on my gmc sierra 1500 350 motor. In the process I did plugs and wires and power steering pump. I went through everything and cleaned it to perfection and put it together. It started like a dream and took it for a test burn out in the country. About 15 miles down the road I shut it down and went through all the fluids and upon starting I noticed it was really hard starting. Kinda like it had alot of compression. I just replaced the battery 2 month ago with the best Interstate battery they had and it still checks out good.
Every time I went to start it cold it started normal but when warm it had the same hard starting issue. Well a week later I stopped at the store before work and it did the same but then just rested to a stop and now the starter just clicks every time I turn the key. I can turn the motor over by hand with a wrench and all battery connection are good. I just put a new starter in today thinking that may have been a fluke of a deal but nothing still. I did see when I first tried the new starter that the pulley on the alternator was trying to spin over ever so slowly tell it quit again.
Volvo :: 960 Wagon Intermittent Starting In Both Warm And Cold Weather / Turns Over Fine
Vehicle: 1995 960 wagon
Background: Exhibits intermittent no-start behavior in both warm and cold weather, wet and dry weather, having sat overnight, or only sitting a few minutes. Turns over fine, but won't start. Sunday, it started fine several times, went to Home Depot, wouldn't start. Called a friend to pick me up. When he was almost there, I tried it again and it started back fine. Been in shop a few times, they played around with a few electrical connections, battery cables and grounds to injectors. Also replaced fuel pump. I have not verified if it is a fuel or spark problem, I just bought a FI fuel pressure gauge last night.
Once started, it does fine. It never stalls or cuts out. That is why I am leaning toward a CPS (that's what jeep people call it.) Sometimes, under the slow cranking speed (relative to idle) the signal is too weak to be useful. However, during idle and normal operation, the flywheel is moving fast enough that the signal is much stronger (being a magnetic pickup). Thus, the reason it only happens during starting, not during running.
Here's my current working theory: Bad crank position sensor (is that Volvo people call it?)
This is the only part I can think of that would cause this. A fuel pump problem would probably show up during running. I think the pump also receives a signal from the cam sensor, so if that sensor were the problem, it would happen during running too, not just starting. It the cam sensor an optical sensor? Shouldn't cause it to not start, although it might cause a difficult start.
Malibu :: 2001 Starts Hard When Warm
I have a 2001 Malibu that starts easily when cold but when it is warm, up to 4 hours after turning if off it is very hard to start. It will try to start then stall and then I eventually have to floor it to get it going. A big cloud of smoke come out of the tail pipe but then runs at a high idle. Sometimes I will get a 3000rpm idle and then after about 30 seconds it will idle right. I have a new fuel pump, a new Charcoal canister, a new vent valve solenoid, a new fuel pump relay, a good battery and a good starter. I also checked the fuel pressure regulator and no gas leaks out. Also have had a full tune-up. This problem turned out to be the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
View 2 RepliesIntrigue :: 1998 - Hard To Start When Warm?
I am having a problems with my intrigue... Hard to start when warm i checked the pressure reg vac hose found no fuel so im not sure if that is the problem. I have the 3800S11 engine. sometimes it will start when warm other times i need to push the gas a little to get it to start.
View 4 RepliesCamry :: 2011 Camry: How To Check The Transmission Oil On 2011 LE (2ARFE)
how do I check the transmission oil on my 2011 Camry LE (2ARFE). I am curious as this car has 98K miles now and I cannot locate the dipstick for the Transmission oil. I got the car 2 years ago at 89K miles.
A technician once told me it's going to be a flush.
I only do 135 miles every week and I am located in Africa.
How do I check the transmission oil and how often should I change it?
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004 - Hard To Restart When Warm
I've got a 2004 wagon and occasionally, when it's warmed up, if I shut it off it's hard to start again. When I turn the key it fires up, but when I release the starter it dies, like I've shut the car off. Giving it throttle makes no difference. I have to do this several times, and then it keeps running. Never does it cold. No codes.
View 4 RepliesElantra HD (2006-10) :: Hard To Start When Weather Is Warm
This has been going on for 3 or 4 months can someone tell me where the ETC sensor is located on 4 cylinder 2008 Elantra ?
View 5 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Random Hard Start After Car Is Warm / No CEL
I have a 99.5 golf gls with an 02' engine in it. 5 Speed, neuspeed supercharged with a bunch of other stuff done to it.
I've had this issue as long as I've owned the car (3-4 years). Starting the car cold, it usually fires right up and can drive it e, no problem. However, when I get the car up to operating temp and turn the car off, if I immediately try and restart the car it either :
A.) chokes but will fire or
B.) will have a long crank and usually starts hard.
Another thing I noticed is that at low RPM right after the clutch has been engaged, the car seems to almost hesitate like something is holding it back, even if I give it more gas. I have checked my codes with Vag com and the only CEL I have it for not having a post cat o2 sensor (picks up that the heater circuit is unplugged). I also have run some diagnostics on my fuel trim and both long and short term fuel trim are within spec. I tested two different mafs and both were around 2.5g/s at idle. Checked for vac leaks and didn't have any.
I have read that a dead/dying crank sensor can give me the symptoms I have, but I seem to be lacking a symptom where the CEL is on for the sensor, and my car doesn't randomly die when driving. So my question is, have any of you had the same symptoms but no CEL?