Camry :: 2011 - Bypass Module To Install Alarm And Remote Start
Mar 2, 2011
I have a 2011 camry and was wondering if I need a bypass module to install an alarm and remote start. Its an Autopage C3 rs-1100...
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 camry and was wondering if I need a bypass module to install an alarm and remote start. Its an Autopage C3 rs-1100...
View 5 Replies...Just bought a Code CA-6551 for a great price. What bypass module would I need for my 01 F150 to do the remote start?
View 1 RepliesI am looking for a site that i can download a service manual with good wire diagrams. I want to install an alarm with remote start and need to know what wires go to what.
View 2 RepliesI bought truck with marksman remote starter and it worked great. until... I lost the truck keys. ford dealership reprogrammed key code and cut new keys.
Truck now thinks that it is being stolen every time i try to use remote start. nothing major, theft light on dashboard idiot-light hud flashes.
The question: How the heck to i bypass the anti-theft module? I know that there is equipment out there to do it?
I recently acquire a 03 LE camry and I program the keyless remote and I thought that the car had a alarm but when I lock the car with the remote and open the door nothing happened. I want to know how can i be sure that the car dose not have the alarm unplugged or those not have at all and if it doesn't can I put the VIP RS3200 security system.
View 2 RepliesI have read countless threads and have done research and can't figure out my issue. Had remote start installed in the truck a month ago. The day it was installed sensors were working. I left the shop and went to back in and noticed they didn't work and the light popped when in reverse and sometime it will the random beeping. I did the check and found the inner right sensor was not buzzing. So ordered four from eBay and it still doesn't work. I even switched one of the others out thinking it was the eBay special issue. It didnt work so it's just that sensor. Now what? I have checked the wiring under the truck and it all looks good. What's my next step? Could the remote start have taken just one sensor out?
View 2 RepliesI installed a remote start a while back. What I am struggling with is every other time or 3rd time I try to start it the horn goes off like a car alarm. Initially I was having a key issue and would get the immobilizer alert on the dash and It would fire and then shut off. Now if the horn starts going off all I do is hit the lock button and it stops after a couple honks and then starts like nothing happened.
View 2 RepliesHave 2005 Camry LE. Had body work done yesterday and they must have disconnected battery and now alarm does not work. Have 3-button (lock, unlock and panic) FCC ID #C043VT14T remote. Alarm system is by Micorp. I tried using program instructions for the FCC ID #C043VT14T remote for another model Toyota but did not work. Keyless entry on remote works but anti theft alarm does not work. Dash button continually flicks red. How to reset (program) remote for 2005 Camry?
View 2 RepliesSo my remote and main key got into a washing machine...Put new batteries in it but no go. Car does not start with either main key or valet. When I unlock the driver side door with either key, engine does not start and alarm goes off immediately. From searching the forums I assume I have 15 seconds from opening door and I am well within 15 seconds. Remote should not be necessary as transponder used to validating key is a passive RFID in the key part.
Dealership so far has been unuseful. I told them I can't start the car and they said yeah come in and we'll program you a new remote. When I got there (by motorcycle) they told me they need the car. It's a 2000 Passat GLX V6.
Can a remote start system be installed on the factory alarm ?
View 11 RepliesSo I got my C 4 and couldn't be happier. Now, the wife wants a few things extra... Remote start for the A/C or heat a few minutes before entering the car and alarm.
View 7 Replies1999.5 MK4 Jetta...
So I mentioned in a previous post that my dome light grounded out and melted the wiring down the A-pillar and into the larger harness. I cut the wire out and strangely am no longer burning up fuse #14 (interior lights, power windows, etc.) but continue to burn fuse #6 (central locking system). Probably the wires melted to the door wires and are grounding out.
Obviously I have to do a bigger fix to get everything re-wired (or just a whole new harness). But really, it's just the alarm that is keeping the car from being mobile, as the alarm is somehow cutting power to the starter (this happened to me before when fuse #14 blew - replace the fuse and boom, you have power to your starter again).
I have searched other forum posts fairly exhaustively with no luck - how to bypass the alarm cutting power to the starter? I know there is a fairly easy way to jump the alarm module connection on the MK3s, but can't figure it out on the same module on the MK4s. Again this is pre-immobilizer.
I just had a Viper 5704 2 way paging remote start alarm installed on my 2012 Fx4 Ecoboost and when the installer ran the wires from the inside of the cab through the firewall he went through the hole that the rubber grommet was in just to the left of the brake pedal. Instead of going through the grommet/plug, he pulled it out and ran the wires beside it and now the rubber plug will not seal and I can hear turbo/engine noise in the cab. Has alarm installed on a 2010 or newer F150 with this same layout and if so where did the installer run the wires through the firewall? Should I have them pull the wires out and run them through the center of the grommet like they should have done or have them make a slit in the rubber from the edge to the center (radius cut) and make the best seal possible?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 Camry, and I would like to install a wired backup camera. What's the best way of running it from the license plate area to the center dash?
I would like to replace the original radio with a new radio that has a built-in display, so ideally the camera cable would end up somewhere behind the radio. And I would like the cable to not be visible, if possible.
This is the item I'm considering buying: [URL] ....
I recently purchased my 2011 Camry XLE and have had the car alarm go off while the car was sitting in my driveway. This happened a few times and I thought I would push the plunger door switch in and out a couple of times to see if this would work. It did for a while like 2 weeks and then yesterday the car alarm went off again while it was sitting in my driveway again.
I grabbed my key and hit the door open button which turned off the alarm and locked the doors with the remote key fob. About an hour later the alarm went off again. I stopped the alarm again by hitting the open door button and then went out and pushed the door plunger button in and out again. So far the alarm hasn't gone off again.
When this first happened I took it back to the dealer and they said they tested the alarm system and found nothing wrong with it. Is it safe to assume that it is a bad door button? Is there any record in the car's computer that would tell when the alarm went off and why? Can the door plunger button be adjusted to correct this?
I'm having some electronic problem with my 350. I parked it and took both batteries out for about a week. I put 2 brand new ones in and hooked them up truck won't start. So I turned key on and left on and the fault that comes up is the "trailer brake module fault" also the abs light, parking brake light & passenger airbag lights are on. Sometimes if I leave key on long enough the lights go away and I can start the truck. But it shuts down during idle. I unplugged the tbc (indash) and the #22 fuse under hood and #31# on passenger side. Still showing the fault. I'm not being allowed to start the truck. I used my tuner and found one code (P0884 tcm power input intermediate)..
View 14 RepliesI installed a factory remote start system on my 2011 sonata. the car will start run for a few seconds then shut off and the start sequence begins again this happens over and over until I unlock the door and add pressure to the brake pedal.
View 1 RepliesI bought my 2013 Sonata GLS back in October w/ 15k miles on it. For Christmas, I got an OEM Hyundai remote start (part # 3S056-ADU02). I took it to a local parts shop to get it installed. Turns out, I needed the jumper harness so I ordered that and they installed it today.
Now for the bad part - everything is installed, and the remote works fine. However, when I go to start the car, it stays started for 2 seconds, beeps, and cuts off and tries several times before giving up. The audio shop said to take it to the dealer to get it programmed, but I took it there and they said it would be $150 to program it. BUT they don't know if that's the problem or not. I've went through the forums and I see nothing about programming. I have found posts with problems similar to mine, but I can't find an answer. Why would it need programmed if everything else on the remote works? How can I make it stay started?
2013 Sonata Limited. I requested that a remote starter be added to a vehicle with keyless ignition. They mentioned that it can't be done, as I would need an extra keyfob that would sit inside the car at all times, and that if I leave the car unlocked, anyone could get in, start it, and drive off with it. That seemed ridiculous to me, so I called another dealer to ask and got essentially the same answer, saying it was not available yet for keyless ignitions.
View 118 RepliesBought the 2011 F150 Lariat used, no window sticker shows online, got a build printout from the Ford parts man. According to the build, it says "with remote srart".
Got one key and separate fob with the truck....just a black key, not the remote key. Had a second black key made at dealers expense and kept one remote from the trade in. All works well but.....Would like to have the remote start functional.
Dealer says buy the key, $140, plus cut and program. Lock shop says $190 for it all.
My question is if I buy the key and have it cut, can I program it properly in the truck....including remote start.....since I have two regular coded keys?
Well it looks like the controller in the driver door is going bad. The key will only lock or unlock the driver door, the windows will not go up/down, nor will the alarm set/unset. The remote works as normal; it locks or unlocks one or all doors and sets or unsets the alarm. The lock/unlock button on the driver door works normally. The doors lock as they should above 10mph.
I've sprayed electrical contact cleaner in the lock several times. This did not improve anything. I wasn't very positive it would; the locks are lubed once about once a year anyway.
If you lock/unlock the door enough times with the key, you can sometimes get all the doors to lock/unlock and the alarm to set but it is very unpredictable. The problem might be in the controller.